Dunlop Max200G - Definitive list of the different versions

[jimbo333]

Whoops..... can't find the photos, hopefully find them tomorrow!

Here we go, this is my Dunlop Max200 PRO, the 2nd prototype of the Max300i








This Max200 PRO is identical to the other prototype of the Max300i, VSBabolat's superb Max200GT, except the following:-

1. It says "PRO" instead of "GT"
2. It doesn't have a gloss shiny clear coat sprayed on.
3. It doesn't have the John McEnroe signature on the side (there is just a blank gap there).

Otherwise it is exactly the same, they are like non-identical twins. I do prefer the GT though just, because the solid gold print of the "GT" looks so cool I reckon, it is possibly the best looking racket I've ever seen, but I will have to make do with my Max200PRO (a very good consolation).

[Hannah19]

Originally Posted by jimbo333

Well spotted, I've edited the first post

It's the "grafil injection" versions that do this (on the hoop merges black to dark green at top of the racket), but only the "Pro" versions I think, from 1990-92. So not actually a new version. Does anyone have a non-Pro "grafil injection" version that does this?

I do but, actually did because I stripped it down to bare graphite and repainted it. It was one with the rounded MAX 200G font and Grafil Injection on the hoop.

[vsbabolat]

Originally Posted by jimbo333

Hi VSBabolat, hopefully you will please be able to confirm that the above differences are correct?

Confirmed!

[vsbabolat]

Originally Posted by jimbo333

Whoops..... can't find the photos, hopefully find them tomorrow!

Here we go, this is my Dunlop Max200 PRO, the 2nd prototype of the Max300i








This Max200 PRO is identical to the other prototype of the Max300i, VSBabolat's superb Max200GT, except the following:-

1. It says "PRO" instead of "GT"
2. It doesn't have a gloss shiny clear coat sprayed on.
3. It doesn't have the John McEnroe signature on the side (there is just a blank gap there).

Otherwise it is exactly the same, they are like non-identical twins. I do prefer the GT though just, because the solid gold print of the "GT" looks so cool I reckon, it is possibly the best looking racket I've ever seen, but I will have to make do with my Max200PRO (a very good consolation).

Wow! That is very cool! Thanks for sharing!

[vsbabolat]

Originally Posted by jimbo333

Well spotted, I've edited the first post

It's the "grafil injection" versions that do this (on the hoop merges black to dark green at top of the racket), but only the "Pro" versions I think, from 1990-92. So not actually a new version. Does anyone have a non-Pro "grafil injection" version that does this?

Yes all of my Grafil Injection Non-Pro 1988-89 turn to a very dark green at the top. While the my Grafil Pro from 1990-91 are a much lighter green.

[jimbo333]

Originally Posted by vsbabolat

Yes all of my Grafil Injection Non-Pro 1988-89 turn to a very dark green at the top. While the my Grafil Pro from 1990-91 are a much lighter green.

Yes, thanks to you and Hans for the info, I can see now that they are very dark green at the top on the non-pro versions, I missed that. I'll change the list now.

[Tennis Man]

jimbo333, what is your view the epitome of these model? I personally think it's the original with 2 green lines and black leather grip, patent pending and small cover:

[Tamiya]

ok fellow 200G fanatics... any idea what causes these frames to warp??

just noticed my black-grip example to have taken a kink at top of hoop.
No frame cracks found, strings measured as evenly tensioned all round ok.

My green-grip Grafil (bought & owned new) has survived school
& left in hot cars etc yet still stays straight at the beam.

Worth clamping in a vice & torsioning it back?

[Hannah19]

Originally Posted by Tamiya

ok fellow 200G fanatics... any idea what causes these frames to warp??

just noticed my black-grip example to have taken a kink at top of hoop.
No frame cracks found, strings measured as evenly tensioned all round ok.

My green-grip Grafil (bought & owned new) has survived school
& left in hot cars etc yet still stays straight at the beam.

Worth clamping in a vice & torsioning it back?

The early 200G's had a different material mix and many felt victim to warping.
Any stringing job over 65 lbs would do the trick eventually.
Don't try to torsion it back, it will probably just break at this stage.

[jimbo333]

Originally Posted by Tennis Man

jimbo333, what is your view the epitome of these model? I personally think it's the original with 2 green lines and black leather grip, patent pending and small cover:

Well that original 1982 version with the tapered beam, is I believe the version that McEnroe used all the way through until 1986!

I think then he changed to the constant beam, but still used a custom frame.

I'd like to hear others view on this?

[jimbo333]

Originally Posted by Tamiya

ok fellow 200G fanatics... any idea what causes these frames to warp??

just noticed my black-grip example to have taken a kink at top of hoop.
No frame cracks found, strings measured as evenly tensioned all round ok.

My green-grip Grafil (bought & owned new) has survived school
& left in hot cars etc yet still stays straight at the beam.

Worth clamping in a vice & torsioning it back?

I think they warped mainly due to this frame basically being a soft graphite frame. Sometmes they were strung too tight, left in cars, strung from the bottom up, lots of other reasons as well, but basically yes, the oldest versions warp the most.

I have quite a few versions with warped heads, and once warped, I think that's it, it won't unwarp, but still plays well, unless very warped!

[paoloraz]

Originally Posted by jimbo333

I think they warped mainly due to this frame basically being a soft graphite frame. Sometmes they were strung too tight, left in cars, strung from the bottom up, lots of other reasons as well, but basically yes, the oldest versions warp the most.

I have quite a few versions with warped heads, and once warped, I think that's it, it won't unwarp, but still plays well, unless very warped!

Jimbo, I think you are right...I've not the "final proof", but, by examining a lot of pics I've always been convinced that until 1986 Mac used the very first version of the 200g, that with round holes (and about that I'm pretty sure) and with taperad beam (this is my impression, in many pics I've observed over the years the top of the head seems thinner)...and I think this is why he switched only very later to his signature model (squared holes)...

About warping, I think that at least half of the frames I have owned were somehow warped...that is, is is much more difficult to find a straight 200g (any cosmetic) than a warped one!! In the end, they still plays pretty well...

You can try to unwarp it (I tried and it works) using the old trick suggested by my granfather when I was a child to unwarp wooden racquets...put the head of the racquet in a recepient filled with hot water for 10-15 minutes, then extract the racquet and 'clamp' it immediately. Or sandwich the head with heavy, say, books (enciclopedy) on the head. This procedure works for wood and also for plastic. Objects tend to be back to their original form. Leave it clamped for some weeks (say, a couple of months) and see the result...

And be very careful when you string the racquet...give always preference to stringers with six blocking points machines and string al tensions not above, say, 22-23kg. And enjoy!!

[Hannah19]

Originally Posted by paoloraz

Jimbo, I think you are right...I've not the "final proof", but, by examining a lot of pics I've always been convinced that until 1986 Mac used the very first version of the 200g, that with round holes (and about that I'm pretty sure) and with taperad beam (this is my impression, in many pics I've observed over the years the top of the head seems thinner)...and I think this is why he switched only very later to his signature model (squared holes)...

About warping, I think that at least half of the frames I have owned were somehow warped...that is, is is much more difficult to find a straight 200g (any cosmetic) than a warped one!! In the end, they still plays pretty well...

You can try to unwarp it (I tried and it works) using the old trick suggested by my granfather when I was a child to unwarp wooden racquets...put the head of the racquet in a recepient filled with hot water for 10-15 minutes, then extract the racquet and 'clamp' it immediately. Or sandwich the head with heavy, say, books (enciclopedy) on the head. This procedure works for wood and also for plastic. Objects tend to be back to their original form. Leave it clamped for some weeks (say, a couple of months) and see the result...

And be very careful when you string the racquet...give always preference to stringers with six blocking points machines and string al tensions not above, say, 22-23kg. And enjoy!!

This method would be true if the material that you try to soften is a thermoplast. Graphite does not soften when heated, it stiffens or bakes.
So IMHO this will not work for a 200G.

[Tamiya]

Modern carbon graphites are a epoxy cure resin (unaffected by heat)
but is the "Grafil injection" a thermoplastic resin shot into the mold?

Originally Posted by paoloraz

About warping, I think that at least half of the frames I have owned were somehow warped...that is, is is much more difficult to find a straight 200g (any cosmetic) than a warped one!! In the end, they still plays pretty well...

yeah still just looking at the banana, might try to play it first
Feels ok on the bench; curious if any difference between sides...

My warp measures about 8-9mm off level, not too noticeable to most eyes.
(It's still strung btw)

You can try to unwarp it (I tried and it works) using the old trick suggested by my granfather when I was a child to unwarp wooden racquets...put the head of the racquet in a recepient filled with hot water for 10-15 minutes, then extract the racquet and 'clamp' it immediately. Or sandwich the head with heavy, say, books (enciclopedy) on the head. This procedure works for wood and also for plastic. Objects tend to be back to their original form. Leave it clamped for some weeks (say, a couple of months) and see the result...

ya, familiar with woodworking - old enough to have worked on English ash
frames... and racquet frames haha. It's more the steam/humidity to
make wood pliable enough to bend though, then dry it clamped to shape.
Doesn't work the same if you're just using a heatgun not a steamer.

Have had a little involvement in shaping/moulding plastics too;
some plastics are hydroscopic but aren't affected by water like wood does.
The water might cause bubbles within the plastic once heated to its
melt point though.


My warp seems to be axis'd horizontally across 10-2, not an overall curve.
Was testing a rig to clamp the top 4" level & cantilever a weight at the butt.
Will wait until I've played it first then cut strings out.

And be very careful when you string the racquet...give always preference to stringers with six blocking points machines and string al tensions not above, say, 22-23kg. And enjoy!!

ya I'll be weaving it myself on a 6pt, syngut 45-50lb.
Or might try it for a low tension experiment hehe

[joe sch]

Did Graf use the max 200g pro at roland garros 1987 ?
I thought she only used earlier 200g max and the videos I checked seem to confirm. When did she start using the pro version ?

[eman resu]

what about the max 400i, does it also tend to warp like you're saying the 200g does?

[jimbo333]

Originally Posted by joe sch

Did Graf use the max 200g pro at roland garros 1987 ?
I thought she only used earlier 200g max and the videos I checked seem to confirm. When did she start using the pro version ?

Unlike McEnroe, Graf basically seemed to use the current Max200G paintjob from the time, and I don't think any of them were the "PRO" versions. She didn't start using the purple/green Max200G PRO until 1991.

[joe sch]

Originally Posted by jimbo333

Unlike McEnroe, Graf basically seemed to use the current Max200G paintjob from the time, and I don't think any of them were the "PRO" versions. She didn't start using the purple/green Max200G PRO until 1991.

Thanks Jimbo, I think you are the max 200g expert now.
I should remember more since I used them for many years.

[Tamiya]

just stripped down & cleaned up a black/green&gold "PRO"

Noticed text saying "John McEnroe recommends..." instead of
"This racquet performs best..." @ no more than 55lbs.

[jimbo333]

Originally Posted by Tamiya

just stripped down & cleaned up a black/green&gold "PRO"

Noticed text saying "John McEnroe recommends..." instead of
"This racquet performs best..." @ no more than 55lbs.

I need to go and check mine at some point.