Maybe getting a Eagnas...

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by Irvin

Sorry I did misunderstand you. Wat you say will work but seems like a like of dancing around. I would just use a starting knot without a starting clamp.

Very cool!

I will probably string my first racquet with a starting knot in the way you described, and when I become more confident I will try my version. I can even try to tape+upload it so people have the visual to the steps.

Have you tried/heard of the Grommet Wizard? http://www.rallytennis.com/Tennis_Fl...d_p/fma110.htm . I doubt I will get one any time soon, but I will probably try to flare the grommets like it shows. I think that will definitely help protect the grommet with the starting knot.

[Irvin]

The flaring of the grommet is primarily used to hold the grommet in place while tension is pulled. I am not so sure about how well it will work to protect the grommet from the starting knot.

If I was going to use a starting knot I would use the smallest one the VS Starting knot. When tying any knot it is best you hold tension on the tag end when tensioning. I would highly recommend that with the starting knot. You will be surprised how little it pulls into the grommet that way. Of course when I hold the tag end of the knot I bet you can guess what I use. You may not NEED a starting clamp but they sure do come in handly.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by Irvin

If I was going to use a starting knot I would use the smallest one the VS Starting knot.

Is that the one you zoom in on toward the end of your Cross Starting Knot youtube video?

[Lakers4Life]

Starting knots were used on wooden rackets without grommets.

[Irvin]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

Is that the one you zoom in on toward the end of your Cross Starting Knot youtube video?

No that's a knot I just made up here is a thread on the VS Starting knot. It also makes a very good tie off knot.

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=445496

Lakers4Life take a look at post #20 in that thread. Do you think Nadal plays with a wood racket? Evidently they are still being used even on the pro tour. Some stringers do not want to use a starting clamp to start crosses.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Lakers4Life, what do you think of post #56? Just curious

[TheLambsheadrep]

I think the steps from post #56 are essentially described (if not actually described) in Jim e's post from http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showt...=445496&page=2

Originally Posted by jim e

You know, if you have a machine with fixed clamps, you can use a finishing knot ( Pro Knot, Parnell, Or finishing knot of choice) without a starting clamp.
you 1st weave both top 2 cross strings, then set anchor clamp (machines fixed clamp) on 2nd cross string furthest away from tension head.
release tension, and now tension the 1st cross string by itself, clamp and tie off with finishing knot can use Pro knot, Parnell or finishing knot of choice.

Now weave 3rd cross, now tension 2nd cross and remove that anchor clamp, reclamp in normal position, and continue stringing as normal.
This works real well, you are not pulling against just a starting clamp,and no need to worry about banging into it later in the stringing process.
You are not pulling against a knot tied to another string or against a string that goes around 2 sharp bends that can be stressful with some thin multi strings or nat. gut, so all this is eliminated.

I submitted this to the USRSA a few years back, and they published it in RSI magazine, so it is an acceptable way to start cross strings.

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

Lakers4Life, what do you think of post #56? Just curious

You're over complicating it.

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by Irvin

No that's a knot I just made up here is a thread on the VS Starting knot. It also makes a very good tie off knot.

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=445496

Lakers4Life take a look at post #20 in that thread. Do you think Nadal plays with a wood racket? Evidently they are still being used even on the pro tour. Some stringers do not want to use a starting clamp to start crosses.

I don't know what your referring to, because this is Post #20 in that thread:

Originally Posted by stringwalla

Witnessed this being done on Nadal's frame. Blast 15 @55lbs.

Stringer was worried the starting clamp was damaging (crushing) the Blast at that bend and might cause premature breakage.

Love the Wilson knot for it's look and ease of application-

[TheLambsheadrep]

I'm getting more done on the stringer little by little, and today I was looking at "Linear ball bearing string gripper" mechanism (http://www.eagnas.com/maxgen/linear.html#GRIPOP). It looks like there's a little rust between the inside and outside parts of the griper (like if the two black rectangular parts that physically grip the string are a hotdog and the steel casing is a bun, there is some rust between the hotdog and the bun haha). It seems to be mainly in the track that the ball bearings lay in. I will try to clean it out as best as possible, and I wanted to point it out (btw, pictures can be posted if anyone wants the visual) because the mechanism doesn't seem to hold string automatically like it claims it should. When I lay the string in between the black rectangles (the string gripper), I need to pull the gripper back myself via the ball bearings to feel any gripping happening to the string. If I just lay the string in there and bring the drop weight down, the string is as free to move as it was initially and the string gripper doesn't move via the ball bearings. I see that the link wants me to pull down on the string as the drop weight starts going down and then the gripper will tighten, and I think that more or less happens now. It's hard to tell without actually trying to string a racquet.

My biggest concern, though, is it's ability to grip two strings at once. Since this is how I want to start the mains and the crosses, it needs to be able to do this. When I lay two strings in the string gripper and pull the gripper back to tighten, most of the time the string that lays on the bottom of the other stays fine, but the string that is positioned on top of the other comes out of the gripper almost every time as the drop weight is pulled. Sometimes it's all the way out, sometimes only part of what was in the gripper comes out. Either way, that can not be a good thing. Again, I am not pulling tension through a racquet when I am testing this so I'm hoping it may work correctly when I do have a racquet going and after I clean it out as much as possible.

On a related note, I appreciate the cleaning methods that were posted, they have been a big help. Are there a few key areas/parts that I should 100% definitely look over and clean if necessary? I just don't want to take too much apart if I don't need to, but I also want it to be clean and working to the best of its ability.

[Lakers4Life]

I usually push the gripper until it holds the string then start applying tension. But it may be different on a DW, you almost need another hand.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

I usually push the gripper until it holds the string then start applying tension. But it may be different on a DW, you almost need another hand.

On a linear gripper (like the NEOS/WISE), you can also angle the string towards your body, and the little resistance will close the gripper for you due to the bend in the string. IMO it's not ask awkward as trying to fiddle with the gripper themselves (pushing it in to close on the string). Less chance for the string to pop out while tensioning, too. This allows for one handed operation on tensioners with the tensioning switch mounted close to the grippers.

On a rotating drum gripper, I'd recommend doing a double wrap around the jaws if you have the luxury. You can also improve the clamping of the jaws by holding the jaw shut while the tensioner begins working, or doing a similar "string bending" method to encourage the jaw to shut. I will go with a double wrap if you've got the luxury of spare string.

Edit: while it doesn't really apply in this case, if you have a SPARE starting clamp, you can also put it on the out-side of the rotating grippers. The drum will shut, but what's actually important here is that there's no slippage, and the starting clamp will obviously prevent that.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

I usually push the gripper until it holds the string then start applying tension. But it may be different on a DW, you almost need another hand.

Another hand would be nice haha. If the gripper won't consistently grab both strings through the entire drop, I think I'm going to try pulling the string down but not letting go like the link says I can, maybe even keep wrapping it back up around the bottom of the tension rod drum a little bit. I would feel if the grip on one of the strings is lost and the only thing holding the string in the gripper is me, but I'm hoping it would add some extra stability.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by diredesire

Edit: while it doesn't really apply in this case, if you have a SPARE starting clamp, you can also put it on the out-side of the rotating grippers. The drum will shut, but what's actually important here is that there's no slippage, and the starting clamp will obviously prevent that.

are you saying that would or would not work in my case (since here i dont know if you were talking about linear grippers like mine)? I do like the idea of a clamp of some sorts giving extra grip, just not too much to damage the string obviously. I will def take that into consideration

[bdstpierre]

From the other thread, I think my clamp bases are the same as yours, just mine are color matched to the rest of the stringer. My drop weight tower looks significantly different from yours though.

I just use a knot to start my crosses. I have done it for years. Ironically, what happens for me is the grommet gets flanged like that special tool would do for you. I find the grommet typically wears out in other areas first (mainly due to inadvertent contact with the tennis court) before the wear at the knot becomes an issue.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

are you saying that would or would not work in my case (since here i dont know if you were talking about linear grippers like mine)? I do like the idea of a clamp of some sorts giving extra grip, just not too much to damage the string obviously. I will def take that into consideration

The concept is the same, but I wouldn't recommend it IF the linear grippers suck in past the frame that houses the grippers. You shouldn't really have to use a backup clamp with linear grippers anyways. If you are slipping on the string, check if an adjustment screw exists, and if so, make sure it is adjusted properly. Also check the alignment of the gripping plates, you should have very parallel jaws.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by bdstpierre

From the other thread, I think my clamp bases are the same as yours, just mine are color matched to the rest of the stringer. My drop weight tower looks significantly different from yours though.

I just use a knot to start my crosses. I have done it for years. Ironically, what happens for me is the grommet gets flanged like that special tool would do for you. I find the grommet typically wears out in other areas first (mainly due to inadvertent contact with the tennis court) before the wear at the knot becomes an issue.

Thanks for the info! It's nice to hear that you've strung a lot with this machine and have had a positive experience in general.

I watched your stringing video on youtube and don't see much difference between our machines outside of the color on the fixed clamps, can you point out where you see a difference on the tower (I can upload more pictures if you want, these were just what were sent to me before I bought it)?

Plus, the drum near where the tension rod is located looks to be ever so slightly leaning/pulled away from where it's attached to the vertical black arm (tower?). Will tightening the nut on the other side of the vertical black arm (tower?) straighten the drum out, or what will it do? I think it's this was because the machine went unused for a few years and i think he left the tension rod/weight in the drum. btw, I don't know all the parts since it didn't come with a manual, do you still have yours?

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by diredesire

The concept is the same, but I wouldn't recommend it IF the linear grippers suck in past the frame that houses the grippers. You shouldn't really have to use a backup clamp with linear grippers anyways. If you are slipping on the string, check if an adjustment screw exists, and if so, make sure it is adjusted properly. Also check the alignment of the gripping plates, you should have very parallel jaws.

It only seems to slip when 2 strings are in the linear grippers, but the situation where 2 strings are in there only happens (no more than) 2 times in the stringing process. If I hold the strings in there pretty good they seem to be fine, it will prob just take some trial and error and scrap string to get the feeling down. I will look to see if it needs adjusting, but I think if anything, it just needs cleaning. Thanks!

[TheLambsheadrep]

this is the problem. I know that I would normally have the grippers more horizontal, but it still happens when they are and having them lower makes the occurrence easier to see
http://www.flickr.com/photos/38221599@N05/8529036001
sometimes it doesn't come all the way out like that, but still slips and loses tension. I bought a hanging scale and can see the tension drop fast when it happens

[diredesire]

Do you own a starting clamp? What method are you using for mains, btw? Is the starting clamp required for the mains IF you do have one? Looks like your gripper plates don't shut past the housing, so you should be able to get away with hanging a starter on the outside of the linear grippers.