Maybe getting a Eagnas...

[TheLambsheadrep]

No starting clamp just yet, I haven't strung any racquets yet either bc I want to make sure I get this machine good to go as best as possible before I start. I would use Yulitle's method for mains, pulling both ends of the string, clamping one, and re-pulling the other, so a starting clamp is not required. Like I've said, it's only an issue when two strings are in there (as you could see the other string didn't move at all). There's just not as much pressure on the top string as the bottom one. When you say I can clamp the outside, you mean on the short side (the grippers are a rectangle, so the short side to the right), correct? And still clamp the string (in the same fashion as if you were clamping it on the outside of the frame), never the linear grippers, right?

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

No starting clamp just yet, I haven't strung any racquets yet either bc I want to make sure I get this machine good to go as best as possible before I start. I would use Yulitle's method for mains, pulling both ends of the string, clamping one, and re-pulling the other, so a starting clamp is not required. Like I've said, it's only an issue when two strings are in there (as you could see the other string didn't move at all). There's just not as much pressure on the top string as the bottom one. When you say I can clamp the outside, you mean on the short side (the grippers are a rectangle, so the short side to the right), correct? And still clamp the string (in the same fashion as if you were clamping it on the outside of the frame), never the linear grippers, right?

If all you're trying to achieve is tension before clamping (since you re-pull the other side anyways), you can use a starting clamp on the outside of the frame instead of tensioning two at once. If you had a standard 16x19 with the starting loop in the throat, the starting clamp would go at the head on any side. Tension the other side, and clamp. Move a string or two ahead on this side. Re-pull the side with the starting clamp, and clamp. Continue as normal.

Obviously, this doesn't make sense if you have no starting clamp . Linear grippers aren't designed to nab two strings at once (really, no tensioner is really designed for this in mind), so you're up a creek more or less

To clarify my statement, you'd use a starting clamp on both strings, on the outside of the tensioner (far side from the racquet) to hold the strings from slipping. You'd actually half-bypass the gripper jaws doing this. The purpose of the gripper is to hold the string so tension can be applied, you'd be using a starting clamp to hold the string against the gripper, both as a "backup" to the gripper, and also eliminating the need for the gripper. It's a happy medium, but you can't do that without a starting clamp. You might be able to remove the clamp head from one of your clamps (or use a floater) for the same purpose, but none of these solutions are really ideal.

Final suggestion would be to try a folded up business card inside your gripper, but it doesn't resolve the uneven gripping on both strings. If you fold the "V" downwards into the gripper, you may even exaggerate it... Just throwing some ideas out there.

[Irvin]

DD what you are talking about I did to start the mains in this video:

http://youtu.be/FwcancsvL3E

Only exception is I never put the starting clamp at the head. The racket in the video above start in the throat and when that happens I tension the two right (long side) mains then move to the left.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by Irvin

DD what you are talking about I did to start the mains in this video:

http://youtu.be/FwcancsvL3E

Only exception is I never put the starting clamp at the head. The racket in the video above start in the throat and when that happens I tension the two right (long side) mains then move to the left.

Bingo, a video is always a bonus Starting location isn't really critical, if you like starting in the throat (as you mentioned) this is completely acceptable too. Thelamsheadrep - this is the method i'm trying to describe in my post -- thanks Irvin.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by bdstpierre

From the other thread, I think my clamp bases are the same as yours, just mine are color matched to the rest of the stringer. My drop weight tower looks significantly different from yours though.

I just use a knot to start my crosses. I have done it for years. Ironically, what happens for me is the grommet gets flanged like that special tool would do for you. I find the grommet typically wears out in other areas first (mainly due to inadvertent contact with the tennis court) before the wear at the knot becomes an issue.

I also see from your video that you start the racquet the same way that I am trying to and yet having problems with - pulling both starting mains at once. As far as I can see, you are putting both pieces of string in the gripper, is that correct? Have you ever had problems stringing like that, are there any suggestions you can give me to stop the problem shown in the video I posted?

[TheLambsheadrep]

SUCCESS!!! Similar to DD's advise, i ripped off a 2inx2in square off a paper towel (kitchen brand, not bathroom brand), bent it like a taco and ran both strings through it as it sat in the gripper. Worked like a charm, multiple tension tests verified that the strings didn't slip drastically and the accuracy of the tension rod scale. I said drastically because for EVERY drop of the weight, the rod would stop slightly, but noticeably, higher than perfectly horizontal. I read the physics of the drop weight machine thread which says pushing on the tension rod to achieve a perfectly horizontal rod will shoot the tension up, but I didn't find this to be true the way I did it. I pushed the rod down in a gentle and spaced-out manner, and noticed that when I thought it was perfectly horizontal it read the selected tension plus or minus a tenth or so of it was supposed to be. But, pretty much immediately after the perfectly horizontal position was reached, the tension would decrease at about a pound every 2 seconds. I don't know if this is normal, or due to the upper string slipping slowly from the paper towel or a result of the tension rod slowly rising since me pushing it down did not let the machine achieve the perfectly horizontal balance naturally. Does the drum or any part of that area of the machine need to be cleaned, maybe that's preventing the rod from reaching horizontal by itself?

Anyway, I will probably take some more pics and video of what I am doing so you guys can see what I'm seeing. I am very happy though since the biggest issue I have (as of now, haven't even worked with the clamps and such haha) seems to be solved for the time being.

By the way, earlier in the thread I did say that the measurement scale on the rod was a sticker, not an engraving. I will probably need to replace it, does anyone have suggestions, can they be purchased? I was thinking that since the sticker values are accurate (for the few clear measurements still on the scale), I could do some measuring and record a new scale on masking tape and place it on a side of the rod that won't allow it to get torn up.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

SUCCESS!!! Similar to DD's advise, i ripped off a 2inx2in square off a paper towel (kitchen brand, not bathroom brand), bent it like a taco and ran both strings through it as it sat in the gripper. Worked like a charm, multiple tension tests verified that the strings didn't slip drastically and the accuracy of the tension rod scale. I said drastically because for EVERY drop of the weight, the rod would stop slightly, but noticeably, higher than perfectly horizontal. I read the physics of the drop weight machine thread which says pushing on the tension rod to achieve a perfectly horizontal rod will shoot the tension up, but I didn't find this to be true the way I did it. I pushed the rod down in a gentle and spaced-out manner, and noticed that when I thought it was perfectly horizontal it read the selected tension plus or minus a tenth or so of it was supposed to be. But, pretty much immediately after the perfectly horizontal position was reached, the tension would decrease at about a pound every 2 seconds. I don't know if this is normal, or due to the upper string slipping slowly from the paper towel or a result of the tension rod slowly rising since me pushing it down did not let the machine achieve the perfectly horizontal balance naturally. Does the drum or any part of that area of the machine need to be cleaned, maybe that's preventing the rod from reaching horizontal by itself?

Anyway, I will probably take some more pics and video of what I am doing so you guys can see what I'm seeing. I am very happy though since the biggest issue I have (as of now, haven't even worked with the clamps and such haha) seems to be solved for the time being.

By the way, earlier in the thread I did say that the measurement scale on the rod was a sticker, not an engraving. I will probably need to replace it, does anyone have suggestions, can they be purchased? I was thinking that since the sticker values are accurate (for the few clear measurements still on the scale), I could do some measuring and record a new scale on masking tape and place it on a side of the rod that won't allow it to get torn up.

It's pretty easy at this point to verify whether or not the string is slipping, just use a sharpie and mark the edge poking out of the back end of the tensioner. If the mark moves, your question is answered. If you're only slightly above horizontal anyways, I'd just leave it alone. If you have clamp drawback, it'll probably come to rest at horizontal in the end. The results are within margin of error if you're within ~5deg anyways. As far as the tension dropping X lbs per Y seconds, this could simply be the string elongating/stretching. If you have scrap kevlar, you can repeat the test and see if there is any/much droop. Kevlar doesn't stretch too much once under tension.

As far as your sticker, I'd like to see a pic before a final rec, but I'd take a simple set of files and mark the major hashes (5 lb increments or so). Shouldn't take much more than a few seconds per hash. You can also get an engraving pen (or dremel) for reasonably cheaply to mark the majors. You might even get lucky and score something at good will, etc for a few bucks. If the visibility is low, just draw over the file marks with a sharpie and wipe clean, the ink should stay on the 'engravings'