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Old 11-25-2008, 03:26 AM   #521
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It will play fine after a month of just chilling in your bag, I find that after the first 3 days initial loss, they don't drop much more until you play them.

Having said that, I see no reason to string up a racquet if you have no chance of using it within the month.

So I would string one, and keep whatever is in your other racquet as a backup incase the main one breaks.

That way especially if you don't like the tension you picked for the first frame, you are not stuck with another one at the same tension for another month, you can adjust when it comes time to string the 2nd.

Remember even if you are not a stringbreaker, you are allways one shank away from going to your backup racquet. So if you are going to be playing competitively it might make more sense to string them both.

J
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:01 AM   #522
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Thanks man...

So here's what I'm gonna do:
String 1 raq now...
String raq2 3weeks after(with my better/preferred tension)...
Use raq2 after another week(after 1month using raq1)...
and delegate raq1 as a back-up...
I can then restring raq1 on the third week of raq2's use...
and so on...

I won't have any problem with untimely breakage coz I will always have a back-up...
Plus I string my own...

Thanks again...
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Old 11-25-2008, 01:35 PM   #523
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Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post
I hated Kirsch Super Smash Spiky more than any string I have ever played in my entire life. . . ever.

I tried to warm up for a dubs match with it, 2 minutes into the warmup I switched to one of my normal frames with Lux, and I cut the KSSS out the next day.

Worst string ever.

Ever.

And I can play with pretty much anything.

So. . . I feel that I am unable to answer your question in an unbiased manner.

J
What are some good alternatives to the Kirschbaum? I'm looking for a 17 gauge string.
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Old 11-25-2008, 01:52 PM   #524
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What are some good alternatives to the Kirschbaum? I'm looking for a 17 gauge string.
What are you using now, and what would you like to be different?

J
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Old 11-25-2008, 02:00 PM   #525
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I'm currently using Kirschbaum Super Smash 16 in a full job in a MicroGel Radical Mid+. It was OK for maybe a week or two then it started losing tension and it's starting to become uncontrollable. It was pretty soft and I liked that about it. Pretty nice spin, but now that it's dead it's basically a cannon. I'm looking for a cheap hybrid that is durable and has a ton of spin and power.
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Old 11-25-2008, 02:00 PM   #526
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Maybe I'm expecting too much.
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Old 11-25-2008, 02:19 PM   #527
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I think the Kirsch just really sucks.

And that is a lot of your problem.

It is a bit pricey, but for soft polys I like Pacific Poly Force Extreme.

But I have not tried everything under the sun, so maybe you would be better served by asking someone like NickB who has more experience with the cheaper off brand polys.

If I was stringing your radical for ME to play with, I would think that I would like something like a Pro Hurricane Tour hybrid.

I have played it a few times crossed with gut in other peoples frames, and liked it.

But gut would blow your budget. Still though it might be worth trying with a cheapo syn gut cross.

J
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:33 PM   #528
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I don't like polyester much either, but I have no choice, because I have two 660 reels that I got for free and I need to finish them...
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:18 PM   #529
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one question. a racquet strung at low tension would have more feel than a racquet strung at high tension? cause before i was stringing at 58 and the stringbed has a lot of feel and dwell time. i felt like a could put the ball anywhere i want to when hitting dropshots and slices. now i strung it at 60 cause i need less power but now i dont get much feel or dwell time and is not as easy for me to hit good dropshots, slices as before, even topspin has reduced noticeably.
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Old 12-04-2008, 07:48 AM   #530
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There is a range on most strings where the lower for power, higher for control paradigm works pretty well. However, once you go too high or too low the model falls apart. This range will be different for different players. Some players hit harder, some softer.

In your case, you might want to try the 16g version of the string you are using at 58lbs. instead of going up in tension on the 17g. Typically the thicker guage of a string will maintain it's properties to a higher tension than the thinner version.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:21 AM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevo View Post
There is a range on most strings where the lower for power, higher for control paradigm works pretty well. However, once you go too high or too low the model falls apart. This range will be different for different players. Some players hit harder, some softer.

In your case, you might want to try the 16g version of the string you are using at 58lbs. instead of going up in tension on the 17g. Typically the thicker guage of a string will maintain it's properties to a higher tension than the thinner version.
That's a good info. I was alays wondering how Pete Sampras plays with 17 gauge on 72 lbs...
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:51 PM   #532
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Because his racquet weighs over 14 ounces. When you have that much momentum in your racquet, the high tension becomes tolerable. At that weight, it's really more like he's playing with it at 65 or something more reasonable. BTW, it's 75 pounds. Not to mention he used to play with 18 gauge VS (which was custom made for him by Babolat).

I would guess this is the same reason why Jolly can play with ALU Rough at 70... since his racquet is HEAVY. It would probably be unplayable if it was stock weight.

OTOH, setups like this are only usable when the racquet is MOVING. You'll have a hard time finding enough pop on soft shots, or serve if you don't have the strength to THRUST that thing through the air like an F-15. But you'd have ludicrous control and spin.
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:50 PM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronalditop View Post
one question. a racquet strung at low tension would have more feel than a racquet strung at high tension? cause before i was stringing at 58 and the stringbed has a lot of feel and dwell time. i felt like a could put the ball anywhere i want to when hitting dropshots and slices. now i strung it at 60 cause i need less power but now i dont get much feel or dwell time and is not as easy for me to hit good dropshots, slices as before, even topspin has reduced noticeably.
Personal preferance, some people hit touch shots better with softer strings and stringbeds saying they can feel the ball better. Some like stiffer deader stringbeds saying they know exactly where the ball is going to go.

When it comes to volleys and droppers and cutsie shots, just go with what works for you.

J
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:53 PM   #534
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There's no reason to string higher unless you like it that way, or you're having control issues.
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:54 PM   #535
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I would guess this is the same reason why Jolly can play with ALU Rough at 70... since his racquet is HEAVY. It would probably be unplayable if it was stock weight.
Correct, I generally like most midsize frames strung at 58-60lb, and MP frames 62-64 when they are stock weight, sometimes higher with a hot multi or gut.

J
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:49 PM   #536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanshiki View Post
Because his racquet weighs over 14 ounces. When you have that much momentum in your racquet, the high tension becomes tolerable. At that weight, it's really more like he's playing with it at 65 or something more reasonable. BTW, it's 75 pounds. Not to mention he used to play with 18 gauge VS (which was custom made for him by Babolat).

I would guess this is the same reason why Jolly can play with ALU Rough at 70... since his racquet is HEAVY. It would probably be unplayable if it was stock weight.

OTOH, setups like this are only usable when the racquet is MOVING. You'll have a hard time finding enough pop on soft shots, or serve if you don't have the strength to THRUST that thing through the air like an F-15. But you'd have ludicrous control and spin.
I know that. I was just being sarcastic. I have strung my racquet on 85+ lbs. I have played with it with and without weights. I did that in an attempt to find the closest response from it to a Dunlop Max 200G. I have gone very low as I have gone very high... I have done that with strings of different gauge 15-18...
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:12 AM   #537
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thank you! helpful without being boring and very objective. I´m a 38 yo - 10 y away from tennis - played since 10yo - had to learn everything from stracth-guy and your help was very much aprecciated!

Ps trying polys now (luxl because i wanted to) (i wont say what i have on my max200g). .... lowered the tension (now about 50 lbs) and feels good.
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Old 12-05-2008, 08:17 AM   #538
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Here is some info that you might find interesting:

http://www.ketcherstrenge.dk/Downloads/1996logm.pdf

http://tennis.quickfound.net/trainin...ch_tennis.html
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Old 12-13-2008, 06:41 PM   #539
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Hey J. In a previous post, you mentioned that your full Alu Power Rough job usually goes dead before you break 'em. How many hours of play do you get out of Rough before you feel it starting to go dead? How can you tell?

Thanks.

DH
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Old 12-14-2008, 01:04 PM   #540
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Hey J. In a previous post, you mentioned that your full Alu Power Rough job usually goes dead before you break 'em. How many hours of play do you get out of Rough before you feel it starting to go dead? How can you tell?

Thanks.

DH
It depends on what I am doing. In the winter I can get 2-3 dubs matches out of a stringjob. If drilling groundies with a good partner I can break it inside of 2 hours, esp on clay. I usually use new stringjobs for matchplay, and then burn them up the rest of the way in practice.

It notches like 1/2 way and from that point on can go at any minute, sometimes they snap shortly after, and sometimes they hang in there until I can't stand them anymore.

When the strings stay out of position after a hit, they are REALLY shot.

J
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