The J011yroger guide to strings.

[jbm]

Originally Posted by J011yroger

Three questions first before I answer.

1. When did you string it, and how much play do you have on the stringjob?

2. How long does the RIP Control normally last you?

3. When you say your Groundies, esp backhand have become inconsistent, are you spraying the ball, or is it a depth issue?

J

Current racquet was strung mid April and has about 8 hours of play. A typical RIP string job will last 15 hours over 4 to 6 weeks before breaking or me cutting themout. And the inconsistency is definitely a depth issue.

[J011yroger]

Originally Posted by jbm

Current racquet was strung mid April and has about 8 hours of play. A typical RIP string job will last 15 hours over 4 to 6 weeks before breaking or me cutting themout. And the inconsistency is definitely a depth issue.

And the depth issue, is it right from the beginning, or does it start after the string has some wear on it?

[jbm]

Originally Posted by J011yroger

And the depth issue, is it right from the beginning, or does it start after the string has some wear on it?

Certainly more as the strings have some wear on it. But do notice it right a way as well. Maybe it is just a matter of technique, since I have always played with tight strings in the past. Or just maybe there is a magic string out there that would help me with my serve/spin, and also keep my groundies in the court. Again, thanks for your help.

[J011yroger]

Originally Posted by jbm

Certainly more as the strings have some wear on it. But do notice it right a way as well. Maybe it is just a matter of technique, since I have always played with tight strings in the past. Or just maybe there is a magic string out there that would help me with my serve/spin, and also keep my groundies in the court. Again, thanks for your help.

Well the main thing that the string tension changes is the angle that the ball comes off the stringbed at. So your looser tension will launch the ball at a higher angle, causing the ball to fly further.

When I hit with a looser setup, I need to hit with heavier top to keep the ball in the court.

As the stringjob wears it of course looses tension, but with a wound construction in addition to loosing tension, as the string frays where you hit the ball most, it creates hot and cold spots on the stringbed, which can also throw you.

J

[chess9]

I haven't read the whole thread yet because I'm afraid the undertaker will arrive before I finish, but herewith a few comments:

1. You are being very very naughty JR, using full poly with wrist problems. 280 made reference to the same issue, as I recall.
2. I have, still, my original string job in my KPS88-Duralast mains at 58, and Conquest crosses at 58. It took about 3 hours of playing with this combo for me to like it. I normally string much lower, but in this stick, higher tensions are better, IMHO.
3. When I string hybrid, I put the poly in the mains and the gut in the crosses. I always break the poly first and right above the center of the racquet and usually on a serve. That hybrid usually lasts anywhere from 4 hours to 20 hours, depending on a host of factors, including the weather (time of year).
4. My favorite string is Big Banger Ace, but I have 5 racquets in use now, am retired, and it's a bit pricey for a string breaker. Cyberflash gets a big nod from me as a second place string.
5. The number one equipment issue for recreational players is that they do NOT appreciate the importance of a string job. This thread has made a small dent in that level of understanding.

-Robert

[lovin'it]

so, reading the last comment, can i just cut to the chase and string at the mid, or a few points lower, section of the guide with gut, like the babolat 17, and be done with this string issue? not to be ugly, but i don't think i can learn about anything else without getting info overload.

i am not a string breaker, btw. play 3 to 5 times a week, 2 hours or so each...restring 3 to 4 times a year? i know it is pricier than poly, but compared to the costs of some other sports in my house, i feel i can spulge a bit! and the additional impact of a better hit, and sounder arm (thus a happier mind!) greatly outweigh the cost....

[chess9]

Originally Posted by lovin'it

so, reading the last comment, can i just cut to the chase and string at the mid, or a few points lower, section of the guide with gut, like the babolat 17, and be done with this string issue? not to be ugly, but i don't think i can learn about anything else without getting info overload.

i am not a string breaker, btw. play 3 to 5 times a week, 2 hours or so each...restring 3 to 4 times a year? i know it is pricier than poly, but compared to the costs of some other sports in my house, i feel i can spulge a bit! and the additional impact of a better hit, and sounder arm (thus a happier mind!) greatly outweigh the cost....

Sounds good to me, but you will miss our obsessive compulsive arguments over tensions, nuances of various polys, and the abrasion characteristics of multifilaments. Are you sure you can live without knowing that important stuff?

-Robert

[lovin'it]

if you could see my game, you would know it is TOTALLY lost on me...i feel nervous even BEING in the string forum...definitely outta my league! thanks though, it is an honor to speak with you!!!

[lovin'it]

((((i am so bad, i think it would be AWESOME to break a string!! ....that just really sounds cool....))))

[Power Player]

Originally Posted by lovin'it

((((i am so bad, i think it would be AWESOME to break a string!! ....that just really sounds cool....))))

It's kinda cool at first I guess, but it can get real annoying when all your sticks are being strung and you can't play.

[J011yroger]

Originally Posted by chess9

1. You are being very very naughty JR, using full poly with wrist problems. 280 made reference to the same issue, as I recall.

-Robert

Wrist has been pretty good for a while (knock wood) and I hurt it at work so I can't blame string for the orig injury.

Last week I dropped off 14 frames with broken stringjobs, so it is either poly or Kevlar for me, as I am right at the point where I can barely afford what I am using now.

J

[daslosh247]

Inquiring minds want to know: where can I find 20g strings????

[chess9]

Originally Posted by J011yroger

Wrist has been pretty good for a while (knock wood) and I hurt it at work so I can't blame string for the orig injury.

Last week I dropped off 14 frames with broken stringjobs, so it is either poly or Kevlar for me, as I am right at the point where I can barely afford what I am using now.

J

Sheezh, and the Social Security Trust Fund looks to be broke by the time you retire. You could be stringing with NYLON at this rate.

-Robert

[J011yroger]

Originally Posted by daslosh247

Inquiring minds want to know: where can I find 20g strings????

Gamma made some back in the 90s. Dunno if they still do.

J

[J011yroger]

Originally Posted by chess9

Sheezh, and the Social Security Trust Fund looks to be broke by the time you retire. You could be stringing with NYLON at this rate.

-Robert

I am strongly considering retiring now. This work thing is seriously interfering with my tennis playing and training, and my social life.

J

[jbm]

Originally Posted by J011yroger

Well the main thing that the string tension changes is the angle that the ball comes off the stringbed at. So your looser tension will launch the ball at a higher angle, causing the ball to fly further.

When I hit with a looser setup, I need to hit with heavier top to keep the ball in the court.

As the stringjob wears it of course looses tension, but with a wound construction in addition to loosing tension, as the string frays where you hit the ball most, it creates hot and cold spots on the stringbed, which can also throw you.

J

Restrung with same string, Head RIP, and have had much better success. Will not wait so long to restring next time. Ordered some Price Recoil just to try. Is it considered a hard multifilament like Head RIP Control? And would you recommend it be strung at my usual tension (59lbs.) or should I drop it a couple of pounds? Thanks.

[J011yroger]

Originally Posted by jbm

Restrung with same string, Head RIP, and have had much better success. Will not wait so long to restring next time. Ordered some Price Recoil just to try. Is it considered a hard multifilament like Head RIP Control? And would you recommend it be strung at my usual tension (59lbs.) or should I drop it a couple of pounds? Thanks.

Recoil is its own thing. Prince reccomends stringing at 10% less. I reccomend stringing at your normal multi tension.

J

[jgn1013]

Hey J, I've been using the Maxim Touch but it doestn't last long, keeps breaking on me. Can you recommend a multifilament string thats more durable. tks

[J011yroger]

Sorry I have never used any PS strings, so I really don't know.

The only multis I have used more than once are NXT Tour, NRG2, and Laserfibre SNG16.

J

[jgn1013]

Originally Posted by J011yroger

Sorry I have never used any PS strings, so I really don't know.

The only multis I have used more than once are NXT Tour, NRG2, and Laserfibre SNG16.

J

what do you think about the NXT, NRG2 or SNG? Which one do you think is more durable?