Two Stringing Questions

[David123]

Hey guys i have two stringing questions. I don't know if they really matter but here it goes

1. Are you supposed to tension a string over or under the racket handle. Sometimes when i start the mains, the string goes over the handle and i tension it over the handle instead of under. Is there a difference? It would make sense to always string under the racket handle/throat since the string is not pressurized by the handle moving it up a bit. So under or over?

2. With fixed clamps, when you have a string clamped, are you supposed to let go of the clamp holding the string first or the clamp base? or it doesn't matter?

This one isn't really related to the above but...

3. I don't understand how if you start at the top when you should at the bottom how do you mess up? What happens? how will you realize?

4. Also is it ok if i don't tension the main string when i first start it and just clamp it instead. Pros cons?

Thanks.

[sstchur]

Originally Posted by David123

Hey guys i have two stringing questions. I don't know if they really matter but here it goes

1. Are you supposed to tension a string over or under the racket handle. Sometimes when i start the mains, the string goes over the handle and i tension it over the handle instead of under. Is there a difference? It would make sense to always string under the racket handle/throat since the string is not pressurized by the handle moving it up a bit. So under or over?

2. With fixed clamps, when you have a string clamped, are you supposed to let go of the clamp holding the string first or the clamp base? or it doesn't matter?

This one isn't really related to the above but...

3. I don't understand how if you start at the top when you should at the bottom how do you mess up? What happens? how will you realize?

Thanks.

I can answer #3, as I did it several times when I was first starting out.

Usually, at some point near where the throat meets the hoop, you come to a point where you simply CANNOT go on. It will be obvious and impossible to continue.

[drakulie]

I always string under the handle. Stringing over will put undo stress on the string and not be aligned with the gripper. It could also scratch the frame/paint.

I always release the base clamp first then center clamp.

[precision2b]

Originally Posted by drakulie

I always string under the handle. Stringing over will put undo stress on the string and not be aligned with the gripper. It could also scratch the frame/paint.

I always release the base clamp first then center clamp.

What he said....

[David123]

Originally Posted by drakulie

I always string under the handle. Stringing over will put undo stress on the string and not be aligned with the gripper. It could also scratch the frame/paint.

I always release the base clamp first then center clamp.

Yeah i thought so. And so first you release the base, and then the actual clamp holding the string right? Does Yulitle do it this way too?

[David123]

And also i added question #4 to the first post :P

[sstchur]

Originally Posted by David123

Yeah i thought so. And so first you release the base, and then the actual clamp holding the string right? Does Yulitle do it this way too?

Yes, he does:

http://www.youtube.com/yulitle#p/u/23/XICQOhCb6VI

Fast forward to about 1:20 or 1:30 in the video.

[uk_skippy]

No.1 - string under the handle, for the reason given.

No.2 - I release the clamp then the base.

Regards

Paul

[David123]

so we have people who release different things first.. lol.. Does it make a difference? and if so why? Which is more reccomended? I trust you since you're a wimbeldon stringing MRT , i guess it causes less damage to the string if the clamp is released first (As if you release the base, the base can move around freely maybe resulting in minor damage to the string?)

[David123]

but then again yulitle does the other way :S? so which way?

[David123]

And Also is it ok if i don't tension the main string when i first start it and just clamp it instead?

[Standupnfall]

I am so confused after reading all your new stringer threads.

Can you just keep all your questions in one thread?

[jim e]

Depends on machine type.
On machines with tension heads lower than the string plane, (i.e., if the racquet can rotate 360 degrees), feed the string under the frame. Feed the string over the frame on machines that are level with the string plane. In other words , select the path of least resistance to avoid damaging the string and/or frame.Some place a piece of grip or buisness card when they pull a string over a frame.

The above comes from the USRSA Manual, which many beginner stringers don't feel is a necessary expense to join, yet the USRSA offers a lot of information. I believe the organization has a lot to offer everyone, especially beginners.

BTW, I tighten the clamp, and secure the base, and when I release I do the opposite of loosen the base, then the clamp.This way, if any string movement on release from drawback, the string will not cause friction against the diamond coated string clamp, as the base will move , then you remove the clamp.

David 123, for someone who can string a racquet in 35 min on a drop weight like yourself as you said, how is it that you don't know your question #3. Also if you string that fast as a beginner, how is it that you never realized weaving one ahead is a big time saver , and makes weaving much easier???Perplexing?

[sstchur]

Originally Posted by jim e

Depends on machine type.
On machines with tension heads lower than the string plane, (i.e., if the racquet can rotate 360 degrees), feed the string under the frame. Feed the string over the frame on machines that are level with the string plane. In other words , select the path of least resistance to avoid damaging the string and/or frame.Some place a piece of grip or buisness card when they pull a string over a frame.

The above comes from the USRSA Manual, which many beginner stringers don't feel is a necessary expense to join, yet they offer a lot of information. I believe the orginization has a lot to offer everyone, especially beginners.

BTW, I tighten the clamp, and secure the base, and when I release I do the opposite of loosen the base, then the clamp.This way, if any string movement on release from drawback, the string will not cause friction against the diamond coated string clamp, as the base will move , then you remove the clamp.

David 123, for someone who can string a racquet in 35 min on a drop weight like yourself as you said, how is it that you don't know your question #3. Also if you string that fast as a beginner, how is it that you never realized weaving one ahead is a big time saver as well as string saver???Perplexing?

jim e:

I'm considering doing the full USRSA membership (right now I have a web trial membership). I know you've spoken highly of it many times.

Do they send you manuals and/or instructions guides upon joining? You've mentioned multiple times about information you've learned from their manuals.

I assume I cannot find such a manual because it is something that is actually mailed to members, and not available via the web site (or a web only membership). Is that correct?

What all do they send by default when you first join?

[jim e]

Originally Posted by sstchur

jim e:

I'm considering doing the full USRSA membership (right now I have a web trial membership). I know you've spoken highly of it many times.

Do they send you manuals and/or instructions guides upon joining? You've mentioned multiple times about information you've learned from their manuals.

I assume I cannot find such a manual because it is something that is actually mailed to members, and not available via the web site (or a web only membership). Is that correct?

What all do they send by default when you first join?

They send their digest manual, which is updated 2 times/ year.That not only has the patterns for most racquets, but also stringing information as well. They will also send you when you 1st join, a Racquet Services Techniques book, about 180 pages of stringing and racquet customization procedures, as well as the MRT study guide, - stringing,- racquet services, etc. On request they will send you all the needed information on getting your MRT or Certified stringers certification as well. If you join for multiple years they send some stringing cd' s as well, (I never looked at those), you get RSI mag. sent 10 times / year, with about 8-9 coupons for free string samples also, (those you need to email your name and member # for the samples each time).

[David123]

Originally Posted by jim e

Depends on machine type.
On machines with tension heads lower than the string plane, (i.e., if the racquet can rotate 360 degrees), feed the string under the frame. Feed the string over the frame on machines that are level with the string plane. In other words , select the path of least resistance to avoid damaging the string and/or frame.Some place a piece of grip or buisness card when they pull a string over a frame.

The above comes from the USRSA Manual, which many beginner stringers don't feel is a necessary expense to join, yet the USRSA offers a lot of information. I believe the organization has a lot to offer everyone, especially beginners.

BTW, I tighten the clamp, and secure the base, and when I release I do the opposite of loosen the base, then the clamp.This way, if any string movement on release from drawback, the string will not cause friction against the diamond coated string clamp, as the base will move , then you remove the clamp.

David 123, for someone who can string a racquet in 35 min on a drop weight like yourself as you said, how is it that you don't know your question #3. Also if you string that fast as a beginner, how is it that you never realized weaving one ahead is a big time saver , and makes weaving much easier???Perplexing?

Because i never tried to string it the wrong way lol.. but thanks for the information Jim. So just to reitirate, when a clamp is in the locked position first you release the base then the actual clamp right?

[David123]

Originally Posted by jim e

They send their digest manual, which is updated 2 times/ year.That not only has the patterns for most racquets, but also stringing information as well. They will also send you when you 1st join, a Racquet Services Techniques book, about 180 pages of stringing and racquet customization procedures, as well as the MRT study guide, - stringing,- racquet services, etc. On request they will send you all the needed information on getting your MRT or Certified stringers certification as well. If you join for multiple years they send some stringing cd' s as well, (I never looked at those).

So if you just join for the web trial, you will not get any of this? what do you get from the web trial because I'd like to know everything about the world of stringing, not just the simple things.

[jim e]

Originally Posted by David123

So if you just join for the web trial, you will not get any of this? what do you get from the web trial because I'd like to know everything about the world of stringing, not just the simple things.

I never just joined the web trial.

Originally Posted by David123

Because i never tried to string it the wrong way lol.. but thanks for the information Jim. So just to reitirate, when a clamp is in the locked position first you release the base then the actual clamp right?

Yes, thats correct, at least thats the way I do it.
When I clamp the string, I clamp the string first, then lock the base.
When I release the clamp, I first unlock the base, then release the string clamp.
Look at it this way, when you are tying a knot, and you are ready to release tension on your clamps, if you release the base clamp first, the base with the clamp moves to release any drawback from the knot, as all knots have some drawback irregardless how good a cinched up knot you tie,so when you release the base, the drawback from that is released, now when you remove the string clamp, the string will not slide from the drawback accross the rough surface of the clamp when you release it, as the knot has already pulled tight from the drawback when you loosened the base clamp as the string releases evenly without moving when the string clamp is removed. Just my way of doing it .

[uk_skippy]

Originally Posted by David123

so we have people who release different things first.. lol.. Does it make a difference? and if so why? Which is more reccomended? I trust you since you're a wimbeldon stringing MRT , i guess it causes less damage to the string if the clamp is released first (As if you release the base, the base can move around freely maybe resulting in minor damage to the string?)

David, Its just the way I do things. The same as if it seems most people, when stringing 1 piece, string the short side on the left, whereas I string the short side on the right.

But in short, I don't think it matters whether you release the clamp or the base first.

Regards

Paul

[drakulie]

^^^Exactly.



david, you are over-thinking these things WAAAAYYYY too much.