Stringing Dunlop 4D 300 Tour One Piece. Please help.

[ciocc]

Hi, I have been stringing my racket with a 2 piece pattern. I'm toying with the idea to do a one piece pattern. Since the long main finishes at 11B, I will have to do ATW so I can avoid stringing from bottom to top.

My question is that after I finish the 2nd to the last long main at 9T, I'll have to go back to 8T to start the first cross. The spacing between 8T and 9T is very narrow. Is it a problem?

Assuming it is ok to do that, I will finish my cross at 8B and start my last main at 11B and finish at 11T. Then I will need to span the string over 4 holes and tie it at 6T. Is spanning over 4 holes (from 11T to 6T) considered too much?

Please help.

[jim e]

Originally Posted by ciocc

Hi, I have been stringing my racket with a 2 piece pattern. I'm toying with the idea to do a one piece pattern. Since the long main finishes at 11B, I will have to do ATW so I can avoid stringing from bottom to top.

My question is that after I finish the 2nd to the last long main at 9T, I'll have to go back to 8T to start the first cross. The spacing between 8T and 9T is very narrow. Is it a problem?

Assuming it is ok to do that, I will finish my cross at 8B and start my last main at 11B and finish at 11T. Then I will need to span the string over 4 holes and tie it at 6T. Is it spanning over 4 holes (from 11T to 6T) considered too much?

Please help.

That racquet according to manuf. can be strung bottom up for cross strings stringing one pc.
Personally I would only string it 2 pc. top to bottom, as I try to string all top to botton as it is less stress.
As you noticed that small space between grommets is an issue with stringing that racquet ATW. Many string that way with no issue, but I would not do it.Its your call.

[Irvin]

Why not string two piece? I don't like stringing the 16 main racket that skip 8 H & T with an ATW pattern.

EDIT: If you skip 7 & 8 top and bottom won't you have a greater space between grommet 9H & 8H?

[ciocc]

My racket is 18x20. I did a little bit research and found that perhaps I can do a box pattern. Basically I leave the last short main and tie the short main on 6T. Then, I finish off the long main on 11B, weave the bottom cross, finish off the short main and then start the first cross on the top and go all the way down to finish the cross at the next to the last cross (because the last cross has already been weaved) and tie it off at 9B. Does it work?

[Wikky]

Originally Posted by ciocc

My racket is 18x20. I did a little bit research and found that perhaps I can do a box pattern. Basically I leave the last short main and tie the short main on 6T. Then, I finish off the long main on 11B, weave the bottom cross, finish off the short main and then start the first cross on the top and go all the way down to finish the cross at the next to the last cross (because the last cross has already been weaved) and tie it off at 9B. Does it work?

This pattern does work however i don't like to do it with less durable strings. As you get to the bottom of the crosses the bottom cross makes it so every other weave is a hard weave whether you string ahead or not. I like the benefit of having the last cross have direct tension on it though.

[Irvin]

Originally Posted by ciocc

My racket is 18x20. I did a little bit research and found that perhaps I can do a box pattern. Basically I leave the last short main and tie the short main on 6T. Then, I finish off the long main on 11B, weave the bottom cross, finish off the short main and then start the first cross on the top and go all the way down to finish the cross at the next to the last cross (because the last cross has already been weaved) and tie it off at 9B. Does it work?

Is it the Biomimetric or 4D 300 Tour? Using a box pattern you are going to have even more short sections of the racket where you go from main to cross to main.

[ciocc]

It's a 4D 300T. I have the racket in front of me and it seems like besides a couple of blocked holes, I should be fine.

Thanks everyone for your comments.

[Irvin]

Originally Posted by ciocc

It's a 4D 300T. I have the racket in front of me and it seems like besides a couple of blocked holes, I should be fine.

Thanks everyone for your comments.

I would use a short side ATW pattern. No blocked holes and no hard weaves.

[ciocc]

Originally Posted by Irvin

I would use a short side ATW pattern. No blocked holes and no hard weaves.

Do you mean making the short side a bit longer so that it not only finishes the short side main, but also it goes around to finish the bottom and top crosses and the long main? If I do this, I guess I need to use a starting clamp before I finish the long main?

[Irvin]

That is correct. I make the short side a bit longer so I can do both outside mains, the bottom cross, and as many of the top crosses as I want sometime none, sometimes one, and sometimes two.

You have an 18 main racket that skips 8 and 10. I run the end of the short side but do not tension those strings. I would make the short side about 7.5 racket lengths long or 17' so you have enough to run in the top two crosses. Then you long side is 23' (maybe more for an 18x20 racket) so you will have less string to weave through fewer tensioned mains which also makes it easier and faster.

After running and tensioning the center 12 mains finish the mains on the short side, bottom cross, last main on long side, and top two crosses with the short side. Then you can run in your long side last two mains. Now you have 12 mains tension and all the other mains ran in and three crosses. Tension two more mains on the short side and hold the string with a starting clamp (yes you need one.) Tension the last two mains on the long side and run and tension crosses 3 - 19 and tie off. Then go back and remove your starting clamp and finish tensioning all the strings left over from the short side.

[ciocc]

Thank you for your detailed instruction, Irvin!!!