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Professional
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 858
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I usually use 17-18 gauge string and the starting pin I got from Klippermate works ok with those, but yesterday I was stringing a friend's racquet and she uses 16 gauge. The flying clamp kept slipping off the starting pin
So what I had to do was cut a small 4" length off the half of the string I was gonna use for crosses, tie a knot in it and use it as a starting pin Some day clearly gonna have to get a starting clamp, but the though of spending $40 on one really makes me POd.
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#2 |
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Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 232
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There are a few other ways to start without a pin or starting clamp.
Go here: http://www.stringerspad.com/flyloop.html This shows some methods for use with flying clamps that don't use a starting clamp... Last edited by KerryR : 04-27-2012 at 10:31 AM. |
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#3 |
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Professional
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 858
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Here are the problems with those other methods:
Jay Cee Method: A complete mess because the center mains aren't directly tensioned. YULitle Method: Requires putting a flying clamp on the outside of the frame, requires a scrap of string to go in the second side of the flying clamp.
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#4 |
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Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 232
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I don't like K'mates starting pin because the drawback is pretty pronounced as the rubber squishes, and because I don't like putting metal in my clamps. Using a string and a stopper knot sounds like a fine alternative.
But: Jay Cee's method actually works fine with the (his) addition of pushing down with the thumbs on L2 and L1 while each is under tension to equalize the tensions from the double pull. Not empirical by any means, but still an effective and fast work around for those without a starting clamp or pin. As far as I know, this is still John Eliot's preferred start by choice, not because he can't afford a starting clamp, so I assume he's found it effective for his players. For YULitle, it's not a big deal to put the flyer on the outside of the frame; it's just a stand-in for a starting clamp that'd be used in exactly the same way. Folks that don't like metal on graphite sometimes pad with rubber. It's not a big deal to stick a scrap of string in the other side of the clamp (you usually have plenty kicking around after removing the old strings or from previous jobs), or, if you loosen the keeper nut on the K-mate flyers, you can adjust the tension very quickly for one string. I only ever finger tightened the keeper nut, which allowed me to adjust them as necessary for different gages and situations. |
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#5 |
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Hall Of Fame
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thats weird, never had a problem with mine
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#6 |
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Professional
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,022
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I have strung many a racket and not once have I ever used a starting pin.
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#7 |
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Hall Of Fame
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ive strung 1 racket on the KM without the pin
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#8 |
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Semi-Pro
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 787
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Hundreds of stringjobs on a Kmate using the starting pin with all gauges and never one slip. Unusual problem and maybe worthh your while to contact Dave at Klipper.
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#9 |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 231
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Agreed. Hundreds and hundreds of racquets using starting pin. No problems and my clamps are 20 years old. Apparently, clamping to metal once per job isn't really catastrophic. I can't believe the lengths people go to to avoids non-problems.
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#10 | |
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Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 232
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Quote:
However, it's not like the starting sequences that avoid a starting pin are difficult, inconvenient, or ineffective. In fact, one might argue that a starting pin actually adds (minor) complexity in order to avoid a non-problem. In the end though, I don't think it actually matters. I only posted the links to the other starts because I thought the OP wanted to stop using a starting pin, not because I thought the methods were superior to using a pin. |
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#11 |
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Professional
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 858
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I appreciate it, and I'd love to stop using a starting pin but I don't think those methods are desirable. I'm gonna have to save up for a starting clamp I guess. I just can't bring myself to plop down $40 for something like that.
I tried it again recently with 18 gauge string and the clamp slipped off the pin again. The only thing I could think of was a build up of that slimy stuff they put on some strings, so I cleaned the clamps. Will have to see next time if it helps. However, what I'm also going to do is buy some sand paper and "rough up" the starting pin so that the clamps aren't trying to hold onto smooth metal.
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#12 |
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Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 232
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What's wrong with using the starting pin you made from a knotted string?
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#13 | |
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Professional
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 858
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Quote:
I've seen on some youtube video a guy who tied a length of string to a keyring which prevents such a thing from happening. Another thing I tried awhile back was take a longer length of string, tie a knot in it, pass it through the starting pin grommet then string it through the other side of the racquet like a normal string, and tie a weight to the end. This way it's tensioned somewhat, like a normal string.
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#14 | |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,974
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Quote:
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#15 |
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Professional
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 858
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Yes I understand there will be some pullback but we were talking a full cm in some instances, which is far too much IMHO.
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#16 |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,974
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^^I would agree that 1 cm is too much drawback. If you have that much your homemade start pin doesn't work. You may want to string a piece of poly or kevlar instead of what you are using. Also you need some tension on the string of your homemade start pin in order for it to work but hand tight should work.
You have to remember there are many people that don't use a start pin or a starting clamp. I'm sure many of them do excellent work.
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#17 |
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Hall Of Fame
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,165
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Did you adjust your clamps with the change in string gauge? Have you cleaned them? I never had a problem with the starting pin when I was using a KM. I assume these clamps are the ones that are like vice grips and have the floating center spacer? That shouldn't slip unless it needs to be cleaned, or it's not adjusted properly.
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#18 |
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Hall Of Fame
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,311
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Call Klippermate. They'll immediately spot what's going on. It's an 800-call; number's on your machine.
Never had this happen. Perhaps your clamps themselves need adjustment. That's normal enough.
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#19 |
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Professional
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 858
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ah here's the thing, they're Gamma X-2 plastic clamps, you see. I bought the pin separately from Klipper.
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#20 |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 231
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IMO, there's the problem. I own Gamma clamps and Klippermate clamps. Nothing against Gamma at all but I find that the KM clamps work far better. For some reason, people have a problem with the fact that KM clamps are based on vise grip pliers. They work great, folks! Easily adjustable and extremely durable.
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