The Official Angell Users Club

racketgek

New User
Also with blue grommets !
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Hey guys. I have been a tc97 16x19 (classic/v2) user for a while (330 gms, 12 pts HL, 6 gms under the bumper at 12 o clock). Tried several sticks intermittently, but keep coming back to it. The mix of control, power, feel and specs just works out best for me in matches. Lately I have been feeling maybe few gms lighter might be helpful in longer matches, and also wanting to try the 18x20 version of tc97. Was hoping to get some comparative thoughts from players who have used with both 18x20 and 16x19 version of tc97. How is the spin potential, power, control and feel different. Thanks a lot!
 

ed70

Professional
Hey guys. I have been a tc97 16x19 (classic/v2) user for a while (330 gms, 12 pts HL, 6 gms under the bumper at 12 o clock). Tried several sticks intermittently, but keep coming back to it. The mix of control, power, feel and specs just works out best for me in matches. Lately I have been feeling maybe few gms lighter might be helpful in longer matches, and also wanting to try the 18x20 version of tc97. Was hoping to get some comparative thoughts from players who have used with both 18x20 and 16x19 version of tc97. How is the spin potential, power, control and feel different. Thanks a lot!

I use the 16x19 have played with the 18x20 too. It’s your normal toss up between 16x19 and 18x20, no different to most other frame offering these 2 alternatives.
A little more power & spin with the 16x19...a little more control with the 18x20... for me they were small margins between the 2, the 16x19 is not a spin frame.
 
Set my heart on a TC100 63RA, 27.5inch, B shaped, 310g 9HL with hydrid grip setup racket.
Currently its just out of my range after delivery charge so hoping there will be a sale sometime soon.
 

topspn

Legend
What's the nearest comparable string? Max power?

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I do not know if it reminds of any other string. It has a bit of elasticity but not too much, it is very comfortable with a nice pocketing response. It is not the most control poly out there but has pretty good control, a bit of power is attainable. It is not a spin machine but very respectable spin. It just seems to do everything well without being an exaggerated aspect of one thing.
 

BBender716

Semi-Pro
I do not know if it reminds of any other string. It has a bit of elasticity but not too much, it is very comfortable with a nice pocketing response. It is not the most control poly out there but has pretty good control, a bit of power is attainable. It is not a spin machine but very respectable spin. It just seems to do everything well without being an exaggerated aspect of one thing.
Sounds a lot like BHB7 actually.

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aehjmeyer

Rookie
I do not know if it reminds of any other string. It has a bit of elasticity but not too much, it is very comfortable with a nice pocketing response. It is not the most control poly out there but has pretty good control, a bit of power is attainable. It is not a spin machine but very respectable spin. It just seems to do everything well without being an exaggerated aspect of one thing.

Almost to a T, this is how I would describe Square-X. Would you agree?
 

aehjmeyer

Rookie
Square-x is the best powerful poly around probably. BK doesn’t have as much power, has more control and better longevity
Sounds great. I love Square X and have 3 sets of BK to try. Also curious to compare BK to Hexagon X from Ytex (which I also have a few sets of), as Hexagon X is supposed to have more control/durability than Square X.
 
I use the 16x19 have played with the 18x20 too. It’s your normal toss up between 16x19 and 18x20, no different to most other frame offering these 2 alternatives.
A little more power & spin with the 16x19...a little more control with the 18x20... for me they were small margins between the 2, the 16x19 is not a spin frame.
Thank you! In that case I might stick with the 16x19 then.
 

ed70

Professional
The 63 RA really better than the 70?

I think on the V3’s where the 70RA and 63RA have very similar SW’s it’s a simple preference between the 2 options, 70RA is slightly crisper with a direct response from stringbed. The 63RA has a slightly softer dampened feel on connection. Neither is better than the other, if your moving from a high RA frame like some of the babolats or Wilson burn line looking for something with more comfort, the 70RA TC100 would be well worth considering
 

alexdedo

New User
Today a doubles matchup but friendly not a league so decided to play both ASL2 and Blade. I started with blade and it sure is a good serving stick with precision, power and a heavy ball. Control is really good and played beautifully threw out. Tour bite @48lbs firmed feel up compared to BBO so i could go lower. I moved on to the ASL2 after an hour and the immediate difference was the responsiveness and easy heavy spin. I just felt the tip was still a bit light and will add a bit more weight there. I don’t believe I’m at 330SW yet but not to far off, maybe another 5 or 6pts. Felt on serve as well were I lost the tip a bit and sometimes felt too fast for the timing i wanted. I can hit big heavy loopy top spin but when you flatten out, watch out (y)
Hi there,
I have played in the past the Angell TC95 63RA 16x19 for a long while, beautiful racket. But when I found my old KBlades I could not believe how much more power I was getting from those. So I ended up selling and ordered some new V3 TC95 70RA 16x19 to see whether I could get a similar experience, but I just could not get the same free power the Blade had on serve and forehand (bearing in mind that the KBlade was pretty stiff, 69 strung). Not sure what the reason is but it was noticeable on playsight data. The only issue I have with the KBlade is that it gives me some arm tenderness. I have now ordered the V7Blade to test. Could you please compare again with the ASL2? I know you already did this, I am just wondering if the Angell can produce the same kind of pop the blades are known for and became one of the most popular frames ever. I have a powerful game from both wings and try to flatten out within 6-7 shots, so would not benefit much from crazy topspin, though it would help me a bit with net clearance. Many thanks for your help
 

topspn

Legend
Hi there,
I have played in the past the Angell TC95 63RA 16x19 for a long while, beautiful racket. But when I found my old KBlades I could not believe how much more power I was getting from those. So I ended up selling and ordered some new V3 TC95 70RA 16x19 to see whether I could get a similar experience, but I just could not get the same free power the Blade had on serve and forehand (bearing in mind that the KBlade was pretty stiff, 69 strung). Not sure what the reason is but it was noticeable on playsight data. The only issue I have with the KBlade is that it gives me some arm tenderness. I have now ordered the V7Blade to test. Could you please compare again with the ASL2? I know you already did this, I am just wondering if the Angell can produce the same kind of pop the blades are known for and became one of the most popular frames ever. I have a powerful game from both wings and try to flatten out within 6-7 shots, so would not benefit much from crazy topspin, though it would help me a bit with net clearance. Many thanks for your help
Hmm..not sure what the issue is with the TC95 in either RA. In all honesty, they served pretty big for me and hit pretty heavy balls. Just for context, I had the 320g/9HL ordered spec and once strung up with poly around 48lbs and a bit of weight @2&10 and OG was 344g approx. The responsiveness of the ASL2 is certainly upped and i have silver 7 tour @48 which is meant to be a crisp control string but it is my first time trying it. Yes, it has bigger power than a TC95 and a bit forgiveness. I haven’t played that much with ASL2 yet, however it is pretty comfortable and I truly can’t imagine that it is low powered at all although it is not a PD like racquet. My ASL2 does have some weight @7” from the butt cap, OG and a bit of weight at the tip and 2&10, it’s 335.4g. My blade is 340g at this point strung with tour bite @48. I think it surprisingly is serving big and with good action on the ball but it has been my experience that tour bite does help there. Comparing power, I would not say it has more free power. This is first and foremost a more control oriented frame but does have decent power with good mechanics. The blade really shines with its tight 16x19 pattern that gives some good precision. All things equal the ASL2 would have more power, the blade has more precision, control and not a big drop off in power. Especially so with my blade at 12oz.
 

BBender716

Semi-Pro
Honestly I feel that the Blade comes with more of that "feel" and plow through because it's got the unique characteristic of being more head heavy while still being an advanced frame that has lots of flex and overall high-ish stock swing weight. If you want that out of an Angell, move it to more like 4-6pts head light and weight it up to 320g.

Sent from my ZTE A2020G Pro using Tapatalk
 

krikamons

Rookie
Honestly I feel that the Blade comes with more of that "feel" and plow through because it's got the unique characteristic of being more head heavy while still being an advanced frame that has lots of flex and overall high-ish stock swing weight. If you want that out of an Angell, move it to more like 4-6pts head light and weight it up to 320g.

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The feel at impact is really great on the blade. I have tc97 310 6pts and it is as stable as blade but feels more boardy. Blade feels how tc97 would feel if i used one of the multi colour kids tennis balls. Some may not like it but I find it very nice. tc95 63ra 320 10pts is as flexible/soft at impact (perhaps even more) but doesn't have the stability. I am still deliberating if I should move the weights in the handle to make it 4-6pts in the hope of fixing the issue
 

Dansan

Semi-Pro
I think the K7 Lime is exactly what you're looking for. I actually just made the switch from my TC95s. I didn't even want to - The TC95 has a certain versatility and playfulness that the K7 lime doesn't quite replicate and that I really enjoy... but only when I'm on. Unfortunately I haven't been able to play as much as I want, and the Lime is just an easier stick to play with. More stable in stock form. I added 4.5g to the tip and it hits a huge ball as well.

There is something very addictive about the K7 Lime that I can't really explain but I think it has to do with the way it feels when hitting the ball. I think it's a bit string sensitive/tension sensitive - I'm slowly dialing that in. I've also been experimenting with lead....I'll try adding some to 12 and see what it does for me because in stock form it needed a little extra pop, I tried 3 and 9...which added some stability but I think adding to the tip will help me hit a heavier ball
 

Caol-ila

Rookie
I agree about the K7 lime. I did not have a good experience with the TC97 18x20, I found it too boardy, so when I got the TC95 18x20 and the K7lime I was quite doubtful. I got them out of curiosity - another name of racquetholism - and was pleseantly surprised by the K7lime feeling and performance. It feels “soft” but powerful enough to close points from the baseline. Forgiving but precise, and very maneuvrable. It is a pleasure to play with. I added 3 + 3 grams at hrs 3 and 9 for more stability and power, so far I am happy.
 

ed70

Professional
I agree about the K7 lime. I did not have a good experience with the TC97 18x20, I found it too boardy, so when I got the TC95 18x20 and the K7lime I was quite doubtful. I got them out of curiosity - another name of racquetholism - and was pleseantly surprised by the K7lime feeling and performance. It feels “soft” but powerful enough to close points from the baseline. Forgiving but precise, and very maneuvrable. It is a pleasure to play with. I added 3 + 3 grams at hrs 3 and 9 for more stability and power, so far I am happy.

18x20’s can feel “boardy” with the wrong string & tension, I’ve always dropped tension lower on 18x20. I’ve not hit the lime but there’s no reason for the 18x20 tc97 to feel more boardy than the tc95 18x20. The tc97 18x20 I’ve hit was a comfortable flexi stick that was solid and had good power and spin potential.
 
J

joohan

Guest
Like I said, ASL2 has a different gear when you elevate to aggressive hitting. It is also more forgiving and stable then a similar spec TC95. It is still to light for me stock and I had to add weight in the head and leather grip but that is my personal preference

I might have to try one after advertisement like this.

...

Has anyone tried to fit 18x20 Angell grommets to Dunlop Bio 300 Tour? Just out of curiosity.
 
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Keoni068

Rookie
I need some advice: what tricks do you guys use when stringing a hybrid on the TC100/ASL3 with the blocked hole prior to the cross tie off? The main tie off blocks the hole on both sides, and I’m wondering if there’s a fix?
 

HeadClassic

Rookie
I need some advice: what tricks do you guys use when stringing a hybrid on the TC100/ASL3 with the blocked hole prior to the cross tie off? The main tie off blocks the hole on both sides, and I’m wondering if there’s a fix?
Funny. I ran into this same problem 5 minutes ago :-D
 

HeadClassic

Rookie
I think next time I will try to tie off the mains one hole higher to free up the tie off space for the crosses.

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Rysty

Rookie
That may not be possible, since the grommet holes are small.

From my old post:

A small tip for stringing. There are blocked holes in TC 95 (and TC 97, I assume) 16x19, when stringing it 2 piece.

Do the Yonex loop with these. It doesn't eliminate the blocked holes, but makes it easier for the string to go through, since one of the blocking parts of string is quite long and thus easy to bend away (sorry, no pics, not native English speaker :) ).
 
I need some advice: what tricks do you guys use when stringing a hybrid on the TC100/ASL3 with the blocked hole prior to the cross tie off? The main tie off blocks the hole on both sides, and I’m wondering if there’s a fix?

I am no expert at stringing but I do have a hybrid string setup and am thinking of getting a TC100. Does this racket need a special stringing technique. I usually give it to a stringer to do. I will be interested to hear expert views in regards to hybrid strings on a TC100 too. Thanks in advance.
 

emhtennis

Professional
Blocked holes usually aren't too big of an issue unless you're working with a really soft string.

I cut the tip of the string at an extreme angle so it is very sharp and then use pliers to push the string underneath the block.

If it is still really hard I have used an awl to try and create a little leverage on the blocking string when pushing the other underneath.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

matchpoint9

Rookie
I need some advice: what tricks do you guys use when stringing a hybrid on the TC100/ASL3 with the blocked hole prior to the cross tie off? The main tie off blocks the hole on both sides, and I’m wondering if there’s a fix?

While doing your mains, cut 2-3 inches of string and insert it in the hole that will get blocked. Finish working on your mains. When you get to it with the cross string, similar to the above comment, use an awl to pull out the main string blocking the hole. This creates leverage / some gap that you can work with. Remove the piece of string currently in the hole while quickly inserting your cross string. It's a space saver method or whatever is called, always worked with my TC95. Be careful when using an awl to pull out the string, you can easily scrape the string
 

Keoni068

Rookie
While doing your mains, cut 2-3 inches of string and insert it in the hole that will get blocked. Finish working on your mains. When you get to it with the cross string, similar to the above comment, use an awl to pull out the main string blocking the hole. This creates leverage / some gap that you can work with. Remove the piece of string currently in the hole while quickly inserting your cross string. It's a space saver method or whatever is called, always worked with my TC95. Be careful when using an awl to pull out the string, you can easily scrape the string

Thanks! My problem is that I’m using poly mains and multi crosses, thus the cross is extremely flimsy and refuses to push through. I’ll try this method. Anyone else have any tricks?
 

ace18

Professional
I've owned and have done hybrid on the TC95, TC97 and TC100 and they are all a pain with this last cross. I have now widened the grommet opening on 7 throat. The current hole is tiny. I've also used chapstick on the end of the string, that helps the string slide easier. I have done many string jobs on my Angells and most of them have been very painful due to this hybrid issue.
 

matchpoint9

Rookie
Thanks! My problem is that I’m using poly mains and multi crosses, thus the cross is extremely flimsy and refuses to push through. I’ll try this method. Anyone else have any tricks?
Yup, multis are tough to deal with. In case you haven't seen it, it's basically what emhtennis said:
 
D

Deleted member 54265

Guest
Thanks! My problem is that I’m using poly mains and multi crosses, thus the cross is extremely flimsy and refuses to push through. I’ll try this method. Anyone else have any tricks?

I had big problems with multi in the beginning stringing TC95 and TC100 in a hybrid configuration.

However I finally figured out how to string these bad boys - this is how I do it:

1. When installing the last mains don't tie them off, but clamp them instead, I use two of these:


2. Install the crosses, two holes will only be blocked by one string at the end, and you can use this tool (not absolutely necessary, but can be a help)


3. When the last crosses are through the wholes, you can then tie off the mains and then the crosses. Once you see it live, it makes sense.

Hope this can help you out.

Cheers, Toby
 

Keoni068

Rookie
I had big problems with multi in the beginning stringing TC95 and TC100 in a hybrid configuration.

However I finally figured out how to string these bad boys - this is how I do it:

1. When installing the last mains don't tie them off, but clamp them instead, I use two of these:


2. Install the crosses, two holes will only be blocked by one string at the end, and you can use this tool (not absolutely necessary, but can be a help)


3. When the last crosses are through the wholes, you can then tie off the mains and then the crosses. Once you see it live, it makes sense.

Hope this can help you out.

Cheers, Toby
That makes sense! Thanks Toby!
 

alexmcnab

Rookie
On the last cross you can also use a blunt nose needle to keep the path clear. Before you block the grommet on the outside insert one from the inside of the frame and finish your mains.
When doing your last cross feed your string into the needle then pull the needle out from the inside. If your string is too thick to go inside the needle you can just push the string into the grommet as you slowly remove the needle and "follow it" through the grommet. Ive found the 15 gauge works best, you may need a little chapstick to help when inserting the needle for the first few times. They do bend and break eventually.
Blunt needle in the US
Blunt needle in the UK
 
D

Deleted member 54265

Guest
On the last cross you can also use a blunt nose needle to keep the path clear. Before you block the grommet on the outside insert one from the inside of the frame and finish your mains.
When doing your last cross feed your string into the needle then pull the needle out from the inside. If your string is too thick to go inside the needle you can just push the string into the grommet as you slowly remove the needle and "follow it" through the grommet. Ive found the 15 gauge works best, you may need a little chapstick to help when inserting the needle for the first few times. They do bend and break eventually.
Blunt needle in the US
Blunt needle in the UK

Tried these blunt needle, and they just did not work for me, broke all the time and har to get into the grommets. Actually tried a lot of different stringing methods and gismos, as I was getting desperate, my method with double starting clamps and Pathfinder Guiding Awl are expensive but the method works like a charm.
 

Starred

Rookie
I have just ordered an ASL2, to replace the Pure Aero. I have played with the PA with for quite some time. I hope the ASL will approximately have the characteristics, but a little softer for my shoulder.
I played with RPM blast @25kg. I didn’t dare to go any softer as I was afraid I then couldn’t control my shots.
What string and tension would you recommend for the ASL2?
 

topspn

Legend
I have just ordered an ASL2, to replace the Pure Aero. I have played with the PA with for quite some time. I hope the ASL will approximately have the characteristics, but a little softer for my shoulder.
I played with RPM blast @25kg. I didn’t dare to go any softer as I was afraid I then couldn’t control my shots.
What string and tension would you recommend for the ASL2?
It will be down right plush comparatively and still a hard hitting stick
 

tennis347

Hall of Fame
Can someone tell me how the K7 Red would compare to the Blade 98 16 x19 v7 in terms of power, control, spin, feel and comfort? Thanks!
 

ElMagoElGato

Semi-Pro
I need some advice: what tricks do you guys use when stringing a hybrid on the TC100/ASL3 with the blocked hole prior to the cross tie off? The main tie off blocks the hole on both sides, and I’m wondering if there’s a fix?

It’s a classic topic in the stringing forum. The best answer would be path-finder awls. Many stringers just cut the end sharply and push it in. I use ribbon to pull down over wrapping strings.
 
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