Can dumb people learn stringing?

esm · Oct 7, 2019

TagUrIt said:
I’ve seriously considered getting that X2, do you recommend getting that stringing machine for a person new to stringing? Or would you have gotten something different?

I believe it is a good/quality machine. It’s only been about 3 weeks. I wished I’d spent more time searching on stringing topics here and watching more YouTube clips - if I was to do it over again, I’d go with a fixed clamp setup. But for a beginner, the X-2 is a pretty good/cool setup and it should be good for personal/light usage.
I am getting used to the floating clamps though.

esm · Oct 7, 2019

esgee48 said:
The universal ATW is the easiest to remember. Tie off last SS main at throat. Do not do the last LS main. With LS at top, start cross at cross 1 if even numbered or 2 if odd numbered. Go down the hoop. Do last main by coming back up to top, weaving thru crosses. Do 1st cross if needed and tie off. If no 1st cross is needed, just tie off at top. Variations exists such as box patterns. In order to prevent blocked holes, put a scrap piece of string thru the hole.

@TagUrIt - Read the sticky. Beginner DW are OK if you do very few frames monthly. If you do more than one per day, you will want something that makes the job easier. Flying clamps are harder/slower to use to get ref tension due to drawback. But stringers can also screw up using fixed clamps. YMMV.

Thank you for the ATW tip. I was just watching the universal ATW clip by YULitle. This method is definitely easier to remember.

i have just done my first ATW (universal) - i took my time and pre weaved most of the LS mains at the start and I am starting to get used to pre weave one Cross ahead, so in the end it took about an hour and 10 mins on a TW Donnay Pro One OS with 1.30 gauge Syn gut.

it was a nice experience but I felt therewas too much string floating around at the beginning. I will try this method again and see if I can improve. (don’t mind the time as I don’t string for speed...)

I think in the end, I can reduce 1’ on the short side (11’ vs 10’) and 3’ on the long side (29’ vs 26’) for the next attempt, because I had so much left over. I measured the left over and make sure I still have enough length for the DW tensioner.... lol

quesion - will there be any differences with a 2-piece and an ATW methods in terms of playability?

1HBHfanatic · Oct 7, 2019

esm said:
…….. quesion - will there be any differences with a 2-piece and an ATW methods in terms of playability?

yes, the 1piece racquets tend to be a bit tighter

esgee48 · Oct 7, 2019

There is no difference. I prefer 1 piece to save string and to avoid having to tie 2 extra knots. If you are worried about the last main or cross being loose [before tie off], add 5-10# to that last string. You almost need to because the drawback from flying clamps.

am1899 · Oct 7, 2019

To my arm, 1pc feels a pinch tighter (assuming same ref tension).

Irvin · Oct 7, 2019

esm said:
i have just done my first ATW … it was a nice experience but I felt therewas too much string floating around at the beginning. I will try this method again and see if I can improve.

When I string an ATW pattern I always preweave all the mains on the long side to keep the string under control.

esm said:
quesion - will there be any differences with a 2-piece and an ATW methods in terms of playability?

I don’t think there any difference in playability but the outside mains (especially with a DW) will have a lot of tension loss. I don’t think that drifts over into the hitting area though so rackets will play the same.

1HBHfanatic · Oct 7, 2019

1HBHfanatic said:
yes, the 1piece racquets tend to be a bit tighter

I ran this experiment for myself once
2similar racquets, 2 wil.blades, 16/19 racquets, similar string, similar tension
1strung with 1piece, 2knots
1strung with 2piece, 4knots
the 1 piece strung racquet retained its "tighter feel" (2me), a bit longer than the 2piece racquet,, very small difference, but noticeable
I do have to say it was on a contact pull electrical machine, but all things being equal, the same should translate to the DW machine
I believe this too be because of the tie offs!! (where tension can be lost), 2 tie-offs on the 1pc. vs 4 tie-offs on the 2pc..

pvw_tf · Oct 7, 2019

Big_Dangerous said:
1. don't suggest pulling tension on the first two mains simultaneously.

I suggest not doing that. Each string individual

Big_Dangerous said:
2. I'm wondering if guys actually pull tension on each and every cross or if the weave ahead means they literally pull tension on every other cross, thus cutting the amount of pulls in half.

Same as point 1, each string.

Peter

esm · Oct 8, 2019

thanks guys. @1HBHfanatic , @Irvin , @am1899 , @esgee48 & others
very much appreciated the tips/advice.

Re: ATW vs. 2-piece
I have another TW Pro One OS which i strung up with the same syn gut at same tension (59lb) in 2-piece method last week and have put on about 3 hours on it. I will try to get a quick session with the ATW racket this week and see if i can tell the difference.

Re: 4 x knots vs. 2 knots - i think i much prefer less knots (for the obvious reasons...)

Re: checking the strung tension, using the RacketTune app, the first one (2-piece) came up about 2lb lower than the second one (ATW) off the DW machine. I always make sure i gave a few more seconds to let the DW level and check/level again when i remove the flying clamp before clamping the next string. I have a Tourna stringmeter on its way, hope it'd be a much quicker way to check the tension... lol

I think i will stick with the ATW method unless doing a hybrid setup.

Question - lets say on a fb of poly, mains and crosses are at different tensions (lets say 2lb diff), would it be wise to use 2-piece method, especially on a base model like the X-2?

fritzhimself · Oct 8, 2019

Wonderful - the thread creator throws a bone at you - doesn't take part in the question anymore and there are more than 100 posts.
Respect! Don't you have anything else to do?

Irvin · Oct 8, 2019

esm said:
I always make sure i gave a few more seconds to let the DW level and check/level again when i remove the flying clamp before clamping the next string.

Let me guess you only use one clamp when stringing the crosses. You level the DW arm to tension a cross and the arm falls when you take the clamp off. So now with no clamp on the crosses you level the DW arm then clamp it. Why do you think the DW arm fell to begin with? Try using 2 clamps when stringing the crosses. Using one clamp for each side. That way when you move the clamp, the arm does not fall, you don’t have to level it, and you cut out a lot of time tensioning each cross 2 times.

esm said:
Question - lets say on a fb of poly, mains and crosses are at different tensions (lets say 2lb diff), would it be wise to use 2-piece method, especially on a base model like the X-2?

I do it all the time I just do not change the tension to cross tension until I tension the top cross.

esm · Oct 8, 2019

Irvin said:
I do it all the time I just do not change the tension to cross tension until I tension the top cross.

cool - so if i use universal ATW method for fb of poly with different tensions, i'd lower the tension from the top cross (2nd cross), then all the way down to the last one, then up the tension for the last main on the LS, then lower the tension again to finish off the first cross?
lol - knowing me, i'd most likely to forget all that towards the end and realise i shouldve have done that after the last knot... lol

Irvin · Oct 8, 2019

I not only use the

esm said:
cool - so if i use universal ATW method for fb of poly with different tensions, i'd lower the tension from the top cross (2nd cross), then all the way down to the last one, then up the tension for the last main on the LS, then lower the tension again to finish off the first cross?
lol - knowing me, i'd most likely to forget all that towards the end and realise i shouldve have done that after the last knot... lol

I don’t use that type of ATW. I assume you’re talking about the pattern esteem suggested. Too many had weaves IMO. I string the short side and tie off at the top and try to loop the string I’m tying off behind the anchor string. Let me know if you want a better description. The short side is on the left for rackets with an odd number of crosses and on the right for an even number of crosses to reduce hard weaves to zero.

Then I use the long side to string the rest and I’ll always start on the top cross.

esm · Oct 8, 2019

Irvin said:
I not only use the
I don’t use that type of ATW. I assume you’re talking about the pattern esteem suggested. Too many had weaves IMO. I string the short side and tie off at the top and try to loop the string I’m tying off behind the anchor string. Let me know if you want a better description. The short side is on the left for rackets with an odd number of crosses and on the right for an even number of crosses to reduce hard weaves to zero.

Then I use the long side to string the rest and I’ll always start on the top cross.

yes please, only when you get a chance. thank you.
could you please also tell me how to measure for the SS and LS with this method if okay?
always keen to learn, but i am sure this will probably confuse me even more... lol
but hey, if i can do it, i am sure everyone can do it too

Irvin · Oct 8, 2019

Just finished making the video and I’m presently loading the video. It’s

esm said:
yes please, only when you get a chance. thank you.
could you please also tell me how to measure for the SS and LS with this method if okay?
always keen to learn, but i am sure this will probably confuse me even more... lol
but hey, if i can do it, i am sure everyone can do it too

almost 30 minutes long so it will take a while but I’ll post a link when it finishes.

Irvin · Oct 8, 2019

For some reason YouTube cut my video in half. Here is the first half of the video for stringing the mains and I will follow up with a link for the crosses after it loads.

Irvin · Oct 8, 2019

Here is a link to the second part of the video

esm · Oct 8, 2019

Thank you @Irvin
That was a very informative video. I will give that method a go next time. Just need to watch it again and write some notes to follow. Thank you again.

Irvin · Oct 8, 2019

esm said:
Thank you @Irvin
That was a very informative video. I will give that method a go next time. Just need to watch it again and write some notes to follow. Thank you again.

Thank you. What racket are you going to be stringing

esm · Oct 8, 2019

Irvin said:
Thank you. What racket are you going to be stringing

I will do this method with the other TW Donnay Pro One OS - this one currently has the 2-piece setup and a few hours old. So would be a good candidate for the next job. Lol

Irvin · Oct 8, 2019

The Pro One OS is very similar to the 315 I strung. Same skip 7&9 and same pattern 16x19. Your short side tie off is 5H so looping the tie off string behind the anchor string will work. Your bottom cross needs to tie off at 8T where you can’t loop the string but the main string goes through 8H diagonally so just pull it tight before you tie your knot and you can stop most tension loss. Good luck let me know how it goes.

EDIT: Make sure you start the bottom cross going over the 76th main on the left side, and over the 6th main on the right side for the top cross. This will leave you room to tie off at 8T above the 18th cross is there isn’t enough room below the 18th cross. when you tighten the knot it will easily slide down to the grommet.

MisterP · Oct 15, 2019

Herb said:
I know I am not the fastest Stringer on these boards. If I can do it, anyone can. I have bad knees, arthritis, and need plenty of light to see what I am doing. So here is a video for you from cutting out strings to bagging in under 20 minutes.

Beautiful dogs. How old is your Dane?

Herb · Oct 16, 2019

MisterP said:
Beautiful dogs. How old is your Dane?

9 going on 10. Still acts like a puppy just slower.

esm · Oct 17, 2019

Irvin said:
Thank you. What racket are you going to be stringing

hello - i strung up a 97 sq" 16x19 racquet last night with a fb of soft poly at 33lb. it took about 1 hour and 12 mints. took my time and was happy with the speed

.
Checked with RacketTune afterwards (with the correct string factor & the correct racquet spec), it came out at 32.4lb - happy with that.
I also checked with the Tourna Stringmeter, it came out at an average of about 34lb from various areas of the stringbed... lol

Thank you

1HBHfanatic · Oct 19, 2019

esm said:
hello - i strung up a 97 sq" 16x19 racquet last night with a fb of soft poly at 33lb. it took about 1 hour and 12 mints. took my time and was happy with the speed .
Checked with RacketTune afterwards (with the correct string factor & the correct racquet spec), it came out at 32.4lb - happy with that.
I also checked with the Tourna Stringmeter, it came out at an average of about 34lb from various areas of the stringbed... lol

Thank you

how did it hit??

esm · Oct 20, 2019

1HBHfanatic said:
how did it hit??

Posted in the Pros Pro string thread earlier....

Strung up an Angell K7 Red with fb of RD 1.18 at 33lb (main) and 31lb (cross). This is after reading a few pages of Chris at TW’s thread about low low tension setups.
what can I say - it was strange in the beginning but about about 5 mins, the pocketing feel was amazing and it gave decent control I was able to find the corners, mid court angles and angle drop shots. Played two sets and it felt amazing.

ttbrowne · Nov 30, 2019

I t

Searah said:
like people with bad memory?
i want to learn stringing.. but easily get overwhelmed from instructions/numbers/ anything confusing.
basically i should stay clear of robots but stringing seems pretty neat.

so from stringers first experience.. is the robot machines confusing? overwhelming?

did you think to give up?
feel like it was a waste of money?

I string but I'm not smart enough to answer your question.

McEncock · Nov 30, 2019

"Can dumb people learn stringing?"

Me included, stringers I've met are no Einstein. Everybody can do it.

Can dumb people learn stringing?

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