It's not necessary to increase the tension on the last string (or the first cross).....
the last string is short and is inherantly more stiff than any string longer than it, so even if it loses tension during the process of tying the knot it will still have enough stiffness to not matter.... additionally since we normally don't hit the ball on the last mains/crosses or first cross it is not a factor in playability of the stringbed.
I always raise the tension in 2 or 3 strings before the knot depending of the kind of string.
The less elasticity in a string the more difficult it is to maintain the tension on your knot.
My electronic machine has a special "knot button" which raises the set tension by 10%.
I don't do it. The reason I don't do it though is for consistency. It seems there is a general consensus that whatever methods you use in your stringing, you ought to keep them the same every time.
If I increase the tension on tie-offs, I will inevitably forgot to reset the tension after I've tied off. I've done this multiple times. I've finally settled on simply not messing with the tension (with the only exception being if I'm doing a different tension for mains and crosses) at all when I string. For me, that helps achieve better consistency b/c it is one less thing I have to remember.
I don't do it. The reason I don't do it though is for consistency. It seems there is a general consensus that whatever methods you use in your stringing, you ought to keep them the same every time.
If I increase the tension on tie-offs, I will inevitably forgot to reset the tension after I've tied off. I've done this multiple times. I've finally settled on simply not messing with the tension (with the only exception being if I'm doing a different tension for mains and crosses) at all when I string. For me, that helps achieve better consistency b/c it is one less thing I have to remember.
I don't do it. The reason I don't do it though is for consistency. It seems there is a general consensus that whatever methods you use in your stringing, you ought to keep them the same every time.
I don't do it. Think of it this way, if you needed to how much would you need to increase the tension for Prince Syn Gut compared to Gamma Infinity or would they be the same. Would you increase the tension more tying off the mains than you would for the crosses because there is less drawback? Would you increase the tension more for flying clamps than for fixed clamps?
Only those stringers that are thinking too much even think about such a ridiculous notion. LOL Bet that is going to get some hate mail. LOL
Let me ask the OP a quesiton. If you do it does it make a difference? If you don't know why does it matter? My mistake two questions.
Irvin
....I think this comment speaks for itself....there is absolutely nothing more to be said than that.
ROFLMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can't think of a reason no to.
What a joke
incidentally, question is spelled question
I always raise the tension in 2 or 3 strings before the knot depending of the kind of string.
The less elasticity in a string the more difficult it is to maintain the tension on your knot.
My electronic machine has a special "knot button" which raises the set tension by 10%.
Resurrecting an older thread here.
Whatever you do, consistency is the key.
No, you should not increase the tension of the last pull.
Why, would you want to? There is zero benefit to it, when it comes to actual play of the racquet and that is what should matter the most. Increasing the tension of the last main or two does more harm than good.
The shorter main strings are already stiffer due to being shorter in length, thus they are underpowered. Further increasing the tension of the last two mains just makes the racquet even less powerful on offcenter hits.
If you increase the tension of the last couple mains you are basically making the sweetspot of the racquet slightly smaller.
It is reverse progressive stringing, why would anyone want that, commonsense.
The main reason I hear stringers say they increase tension on the last pull is so a client doesn't feel that string and think it is under tensioned when it is not, to me that is a dumb reason to do it. Ignorance should not beget ignorance.
Seems that some experienced stringers do & some don't increase tension, but most don't feel it makes much difference. Many feel it doesn't hurt, unless you forget to readjust the machine. What I find interesting is those who defend one method as though they have studied the effects & have empirical data, to support their stance, that applies to all stringers. Sorry Lsmkenpo, but the main "valid" reason that people say they do it, is to compensate for the tension they loose when tying off. You have no idea how much tension "they" loose & maybe they do need to compensate! Your dogmatic statements are of not very helpful & should be prefaced by making it clear that it is your opinion & nothing more.
Cheers,
kev
Seems that some experienced stringers do & some don't increase tension, but most don't feel it makes much difference. Many feel it doesn't hurt, unless you forget to readjust the machine. What I find interesting is those who defend one method as though they have studied the effects & have empirical data, to support their stance, that applies to all stringers. Sorry Lsmkenpo, but the main "valid" reason that people say they do it, is to compensate for the tension they loose when tying off. You have no idea how much tension "they" loose & maybe they do need to compensate! Your dogmatic statements are of not very helpful & should be prefaced by making it clear that it is your opinion & nothing more.
Cheers,
kev
You're doing fine don't change a thing.
Irvin
Well, I thought so, but I just realized that I've strung two racquets with full syn. gut that call for a one piece, and I did a two piece. There's no need abusing a grommet with a starting knot when not necessary. Oh well, that won't be my last mistake; that's for sure!
Now, to the one piece vs. two piece stringing. I've looked up several racquets from several different manufacturers, and the only one I've found so far that recommends a two piece is Head. That being the case, I need to learn to do a one piece. I understand the concept of pre-running the string out on my short side to determine my length, but I'm a little unclear as to why some string the first cross or two with the short side, while others string all of the crosses with the long side. Any help here would be appreciated. And thanks in advance!
If you decide to look at the Stringway SBS calculator and/or string hybrids or differening main/cross tensions, then you'll have to go 2 piece.
I don't like or use starting knots, but again, ask 10 people and get 10 different answers.
warning: rookie stringer here
If you use the short side to run the top cross and hold that top cross with a starting clamp and tie it off last your drawback is be almost nothing. Also I think tying off the top and bottom crosses only is a very good idea.
The reason you have no drawback when you tie off the top and bottom crosses after stringing is done is because the string bed is much stiffer and the mains hold your clamps in place.
Then there is ATW when you mains end at the throat. Some ATW patterns allow you to tie off the top and bottom crosses only with and you will never have a blocked hole or hard weave.
But all these methods have their downfall and there are problem anytime you do not string the racket as the manufacturer recommends.
EDIT: By the way Jason Costello told me Babolat recommends two piece for all their rackets but one piece is ok.
Irvin
Running the first cross with the short side ensures that both outer mains will be at equal tension. Make sure you increase the ss length to compensate. If you forget, just tie off as usual. No biggie.
1pc vs 2pc: Per USRSA. When given the choice, pick the one that allows the crosses to be strung top to bottom.
So, Wilson and Babolat use 2pc(orATW), Prince and Dunlop flip a coin, Head no choice. There are exceptions.
Two tensions two strings. IMO it is always best to do 2 piece if you can.
Irvin
Irvin;6043203. . . Then there is ATW when you mains end at the throat. Some ATW patterns allow you to tie off the top and bottom crosses only with and you will never have a blocked hole or hard weave. But all these methods have their downfall and there are problem anytime you do not string the racket as the manufacturer recommends.Irvin[/QUOTE said:Out of curiosity, I looked up ATW. Now I'm intrigued and will have to give it a go. My London should be straight forward enough. However, considering that I do not have a starting clamp or a third floating clamp, should I run the top two crosses with the short side, so that I can then clamp them off after tensioning the second cross? Or, could I tension and clamp the first cross on the outside of the frame, using a floating clamp and scrap string?
Now, the K-Zero that a friend gave to my wife: TW recommends a one piece, but the mains end in the throat. I've watched a few videos for this scenario, but I'll have to belabor this a bit more. I'm understanding the concepts of leaving strings out and such, but what would you recommend for me as one who only has two floating clamps?
And I do plan to get either a third floating clamp and maybe a starting clamp in the near future, but I only have a Klippermate, so I'm trying to keep all of this in perspective. Thanks, Irvin.
...My London should be straight forward enough. However, considering that I do not have a starting clamp or a third floating clamp, should I run the top two crosses with the short side, so that I can then clamp them off after tensioning the second cross? Or, could I tension and clamp the first cross on the outside of the frame, using a floating clamp and scrap string? ...
...Now, the K-Zero that a friend gave to my wife: TW recommends a one piece, but the mains end in the throat. I've watched a few videos for this scenario, but I'll have to belabor this a bit more. I'm understanding the concepts of leaving strings out and such, but what would you recommend for me as one who only has two floating clamps?...
Let me preface this by saying that whenever you use the short side to run one or two top crosses you are putting a lot of stress on one or more of the four corners of your racket. If you use the short side to run the top cross on a 16 main racket that skips 7 and 9 when you run the long side for the second cross you only have a short distance of the frame from 10h to 9h on the long side to support the string when you do your 90 degree turn. If you run the top two crosses you will have that problem on the short side and another problem on the long side. You will have another short distance of the frame between 10h and 11h when you make the 270 degree turn on the long side. My preference is to run only the top cross and not the top two. . . . I would run only the top cross for the reason above.
Thanks. I busted a string in one of my Londons last night, so I'll be having a go at stringing my own racquet for the first time. It has been strung 3 times with a two piece, but I may give the one piece a try this time. But as I mentioned, I only have two Klippermate floating clamps, so I'll have to clamp it to the outside of the frame with a scrap piece of string in order to run that top cross on the short side.