stability without adding too much swingweight?

TimothyO

Hall of Fame
I have lead at 12 and a little at at 4-5 / 7-8 on my 300.

I also have a heavy replacement grip (Shock Shield) and some lead under the grip positioned under my palm.

I've tried several different configurations and with this particular frame it works. Last week I practiced returns against a heavy server and had no problem.
 

treblings

Hall of Fame
I have lead at 12 and a little at at 4-5 / 7-8 on my 300.

I also have a heavy replacement grip (Shock Shield) and some lead under the grip positioned under my palm.

I've tried several different configurations and with this particular frame it works. Last week I practiced returns against a heavy server and had no problem.

i play the Bio 300Tour. about 4g at the end of the grip, another 4g at 2/10 and 3g at 12.
but i´m still experimenting with lead placement.
could you please explain, why your setup works for you? and how much lead you put where.
Thanks
 

TimothyO

Hall of Fame
i play the Bio 300Tour. about 4g at the end of the grip, another 4g at 2/10 and 3g at 12.
but i´m still experimenting with lead placement.
could you please explain, why your setup works for you? and how much lead you put where.
Thanks

I think it works because it:

- adds a little oomph with the lead at 12

- adds stability with the lead at 4-5/7-8

- adds a little stiffness with the lead at 4-5/7-8 (just a wild a** guess and a topic of debate/discussion on TT)

- adds torsional stability on the long axis with lead under my palm which also counter balances the lead in the hoop.

This is all just theory since I came up with it starting with concepts discussed on TT and then adjusting based on actual court experience. I've actually brought tape and my Swiss army knife court side for test hits and made tweaks in real time. Best thing I ever did!!!

The numbers on paper provided a point of departure but actual feel and performance in testing. For example, at one point I had the lower lead closer to 5-6/7-6. Didn't feel stable enough so I moved it to 3/9. Felt too sluggish and I moved it to its current position at roughly 4-5/7-8...just right.

I also adjusted total weight by deliberately adding extra weight at all points and then cutting out small increments until things felt right.
 

TennisCJC

Legend
Any ideas? I like a bigger grip and some lead on the inside of the throat. Are there other tips?

Buy a volkl org 10 295 and do this:

- 2 grams under the bumper at 12 o'clock
- 2 grams centered at 3 o'clock
- 2 grams centered at 9 o'clock
- 6 grams under the grip
- add volkl dampener (3 grams)
- add overgrip or 4 more grams under grip if no overgrip

I suggest the volkl org 10 295 because it has a very high stock twist weight 13.4 grams. The wilson 6.1 95 which is a heavy racket has a twist weight under 12 grams. The new Volkl Org line has outstanding torsional stability. The racket is around 11 oz stock. It will be well under 12 oz with all the mods and have a load of power and stability. I have demoed many 10.8-11.5 rackets including dunlop 300, 300T, wilson blx ps 95, wilson blx and K blades, bab aeropro gt, wilson pro open, and older Rads. The new volkl's are the best of them all. I like the dunlop 300 and wilson ps 95 next but they also need customization. The volkl also has a very solid fell at contact.

Other than a high stock twist weight, I don't think you can make a big change in stability without increasing swing weight.
 

Funbun

Professional
Buy a volkl org 10 295 and do this:

- 2 grams under the bumper at 12 o'clock
- 2 grams centered at 3 o'clock
- 2 grams centered at 9 o'clock
- 6 grams under the grip
- add volkl dampener (3 grams)
- add overgrip or 4 more grams under grip if no overgrip

I suggest the volkl org 10 295 because it has a very high stock twist weight 13.4 grams. The wilson 6.1 95 which is a heavy racket has a twist weight under 12 grams. The new Volkl Org line has outstanding torsional stability. The racket is around 11 oz stock. It will be well under 12 oz with all the mods and have a load of power and stability. I have demoed many 10.8-11.5 rackets including dunlop 300, 300T, wilson blx ps 95, wilson blx and K blades, bab aeropro gt, wilson pro open, and older Rads. The new volkl's are the best of them all. I like the dunlop 300 and wilson ps 95 next but they also need customization. The volkl also has a very solid fell at contact.

Other than a high stock twist weight, I don't think you can make a big change in stability without increasing swing weight.

Agree with this suggestion a lot, although you should test out some low stock racquets for yourself. Everybody has their own feel of stability because everybody has different technique, in one way or another.

Btw, TennisCJC, can you give me a heads up on how the BLX PS 6.1 95 plays? I'm looking forward to customizing that monster, but can you tell me how it feels when you play? Did it feel like, a tad rigid and solid like the KPS88 and/or older Pro Staffs? Or was it a bit more boardy? Have you tested out more than one, and do they have a consistent feel? What do you think about the durability? How's the paint finish like? Does it chip easily? Have you added lead and had any trouble doing so?

I'm seriously considering getting it, but I really want to get an idea of how it feels and customizes before paying that massive junk of $200 bucks. I'm a sucker for box beams.
 

treblings

Hall of Fame
I think it works because it:

- adds a little oomph with the lead at 12

- adds stability with the lead at 4-5/7-8

- adds a little stiffness with the lead at 4-5/7-8 (just a wild a** guess and a topic of debate/discussion on TT)

- adds torsional stability on the long axis with lead under my palm which also counter balances the lead in the hoop.

This is all just theory since I came up with it starting with concepts discussed on TT and then adjusting based on actual court experience. I've actually brought tape and my Swiss army knife court side for test hits and made tweaks in real time. Best thing I ever did!!!

The numbers on paper provided a point of departure but actual feel and performance in testing. For example, at one point I had the lower lead closer to 5-6/7-6. Didn't feel stable enough so I moved it to 3/9. Felt too sluggish and I moved it to its current position at roughly 4-5/7-8...just right.

I also adjusted total weight by deliberately adding extra weight at all points and then cutting out small increments until things felt right.

thanks again, you´re saying basically that you have to test until you find what is right for you:)
good advice, and i´ll take it
 

treblings

Hall of Fame
Nice tacky grip.
Watch ball.
Hit center of sweetspot.

come on, that´s too easy:)tacky grip and watch the ball.
now i suggest you use an old leather grip that´s really well-used and slippery.
and here it comes. instead of watching the ball you watch a pretty girl passing by.
try and hit the sweetspot than
 

TennisCJC

Legend
Agree with this suggestion a lot, although you should test out some low stock racquets for yourself. Everybody has their own feel of stability because everybody has different technique, in one way or another.

Btw, TennisCJC, can you give me a heads up on how the BLX PS 6.1 95 plays? I'm looking forward to customizing that monster, but can you tell me how it feels when you play? Did it feel like, a tad rigid and solid like the KPS88 and/or older Pro Staffs? Or was it a bit more boardy? Have you tested out more than one, and do they have a consistent feel? What do you think about the durability? How's the paint finish like? Does it chip easily? Have you added lead and had any trouble doing so?

I'm seriously considering getting it, but I really want to get an idea of how it feels and customizes before paying that massive junk of $200 bucks. I'm a sucker for box beams.

The new blx ps 95 plays much softer and faster than older 95" models. Stock, it has a soft feel with more dwell time. TW rates it 62 flex and that is indicative of the feel.

At least 1 of the TW 2012 play test models had a buzz in the handle - mine had the buzz. Sent it back and got a 2nd decent one - no buzz, very solid feel. Not sure if the buzz is a common defect or just TW had 1 bad play test racket. The 2nd racket had no issues and played well. My view is the racket needs head weight for power and stability. The flex is great for control and feel. Spin was easily the best attribute of the play test racket in stock form. Topspin was easy to get as it is fast thru the air and the flex lets you work the ball. At least it feels like you are working the ball - big dwell time.
 
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Gimmick

Semi-Pro
Nice tacky grip.
Watch ball.
Hit center of sweetspot.

Ironically the relatively low twist weight on the Microgel Prestige Pro increased the sense of stability because I could instantly tell if I was hitting too low or high on groundstrokes and and dial in the sweetspot more accurately.
 

TimothyO

Hall of Fame
Today I while practicing serves at lunch time I dorked around with my lead. For fun I added 50% more at 12 and a whopping 100% more at 4-5/7-8.

I also added 2g folded up under the butt cap.

Serving felt good. The extra weight added lots of power and the added stability made for more accurate serves. Good way to instill confidence in yourself!

Then I framed a serve on the tip and the lead under the cap started rattling so I removed it.

Taking out those 2g had a significant effect on feel. Head speed was the same but contact didn't feel as plush. Things felt just a tiny bit less confident or stable.

So I put the 2g back and things felt better again.

I noticed that adding weight towards the butt has little effect on the TW customization tool output as it doesn't track torsional stability on the long axis. But it does calculate plowthrough which is primarily drive. By lead towards the tip.

I don't know what specs butt weight drives other than static weight but it certainly hasan effect on feel, stability, and accuracy. I believe this is why it's so important to use specs and calculation tools as a starting point only. And real-time court side experimentation can be extremely valuable!
 

TaihtDuhShaat

Semi-Pro
Today I while practicing serves at lunch time I dorked around with my lead. For fun I added 50% more at 12 and a whopping 100% more at 4-5/7-8.

I also added 2g folded up under the butt cap.

Serving felt good. The extra weight added lots of power and the added stability made for more accurate serves. Good way to instill confidence in yourself!

Then I framed a serve on the tip and the lead under the cap started rattling so I removed it.

Taking out those 2g had a significant effect on feel. Head speed was the same but contact didn't feel as plush. Things felt just a tiny bit less confident or stable.

So I put the 2g back and things felt better again.

I noticed that adding weight towards the butt has little effect on the TW customization tool output as it doesn't track torsional stability on the long axis. But it does calculate plowthrough which is primarily drive. By lead towards the tip.

I don't know what specs butt weight drives other than static weight but it certainly hasan effect on feel, stability, and accuracy. I believe this is why it's so important to use specs and calculation tools as a starting point only. And real-time court side experimentation can be extremely valuable!

Weight in the butt increases recoil weight (moment of inertia about the balance point). So the more weight you add in the butt the less the head deflects back on impact, giving more stability along the long axis like you thought. The more you weight the butt, the spinnier and lower powered your shots will be at your SW range. You might not notice the power loss since if you like to hit with a lot of spin anyway. Weight the butt! It will help your volleys, and let you play more aggresively.
 
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