Prince 0 HOLEES......arrrrghhh

tennisphotog · Jan 18, 2012

I am sure there are many threads on this, I just can't find em. Can anyone just tell me the best way to string these 03 O-hole racquets from Prince, I have a Gamma 6004 lockout, and I am not sure how to use the brake or even if it works. Anyone?

Thanks!!

KerryR · Jan 18, 2012

Here are 4 ways on a lockout:

1) I use the 50/50 method, because it's the cleanest solution.

2) use the brake, but you have to be absolutely certain it doesn't slip AT ALL. This can be hard to determine for certain, and even a teeny bit of imperceptibly slow slip will cause a dramatic drop in tension.

3) get and use a Prince Boomerang tool, though there's wide debate on their efficacy, and they're not always available. They used to be free from Prince. I've never tried to get one.

4) stuff something between the previous cross and the one being tensioned. I've heard of thumbs (ouch), Sharpy marker caps, and offset awls used for this. I've used the marker lid and awl shaft, but I prefer the 50/50.

Irvin · Jan 18, 2012

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WZJ...xt=C3d52921UDOEgsToPDskK4b-WwzQy3a-XYUwJbuAQz

Carolina Racquet · Jan 18, 2012

The Answer

I've strung many Prince O3 and EXO3 frames and IMO the 2 piece 50/50 pattern is the easy solution.

It will not damage the frame and it makes stringing these frames pretty easy with no boomerang tools or brakes.

Here's a YouTube video done by Irvin that helped me alot when before I changed to the 2 piece 50/50:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9kRV5HQpD4

Good Luck.

tennisphotog · Jan 18, 2012

Thanks, but for the 50/50 you need a starting clamp, I don't have one. I might just return these to the owner and have him take it elsewhere, seems like more trouble than it's worth. Darn it Prince!

Irvin · Jan 18, 2012

There is another option. String the racket from the top down and use something to place between the last tensioned string and the one you are tensioning. I used to use a 3/8" or 1/2" socket extension depending on the spacing between the two strings. You can also use a sharpie cap.

mikeler · Jan 18, 2012

tennisphotog said:
Thanks, but for the 50/50 you need a starting clamp, I don't have one. I might just return these to the owner and have him take it elsewhere, seems like more trouble than it's worth. Darn it Prince!

My Gamma brake won't hold the racket in place, so when I used to use an O-port style racket, I'd use my hip as the break. The crosses get easier the further down you go with the crosses.

Pavlos · Jan 18, 2012

What was the idea behind the O-ports? Is there any actual advantage to them, or is it just an issue of a different style that Prince wanted to push into the market?

Irvin · Jan 18, 2012

Supposedly you can "play to the edge" as Prince says and off center hits are more forgiving.

Pavlos · Jan 18, 2012

Gotta love the marketing speak!

themitchmann · Jan 18, 2012

They provide more power hits outside of the sweetspot. I think Prince is marketing it correctly: they give intermediate players more forgiveness, and advanced players the ability to play better defense when on the run/full extension.

Disclosure: I'm a Prince sponsored teaching pro.

Irvin · Jan 18, 2012

^^You think? Didn't you just take the MRT exam? I am sure the latest technologies was on that exam wasn'T it?

mchjhn · Jan 18, 2012

Irvin said:
Supposedly you can "play to the edge" as Prince says and off center hits are more forgiving.

irvin-always wanted to ask you a question from your videos...how old is the couch in the background?

LttlElvis · Jan 18, 2012

How old is your Gamma 6004? I think the newer brakes are supposed to work well. I have the brake from 4 or 5 years ago. My Gamma 6004 brake does not work that well. It's the only thing I don't like about the machine. My previous Eagnas brake was much better.

fortun8son · Jan 18, 2012

Hmm... I think I like the term O-Holes!

equinox · Jan 19, 2012

Just add a surcharge. $5 covers it.

Irvin · Jan 19, 2012

mchjhn said:
irvin-always wanted to ask you a question from your videos...how old is the couch in the background?

I have no idea but it is old. If I had to guess I would say mid 70s

LttlElvis said:
How old is your Gamma 6004? I think the newer brakes are supposed to work well. I have the brake from 4 or 5 years ago. My Gamma 6004 brake does not work that well. It's the only thing I don't like about the machine. My previous Eagnas brake was much better.

My Gamma is 3 or 4 years old. The only time I use the brake is to hold the turn table when I don't want it to move for videos.

COPEY · Jan 19, 2012

Buy yourself a 2.5 inch S-hook and your problems will be solved. I no longer use the 50-50 method, and the S-hook will never be suspect to slippage like the boomerang. It's one of the best practical purchases I've made in a while...and at only .86¢

Initially I was concerned about the metal potentially marring the racquet, but after using it a few times on my son's racquets there's nothing to worry about. Still, I used heat shrink to cover the portion of the hook that comes into contact with the frame as a precaution. I'm telling you, it's the way to go. Check out this video to see how it works.

Irvin · Jan 19, 2012

^^I agree that appears to be a good idea. I was worried about the metal to racket part too glad to hear it is ok.

nalvarado · Jan 19, 2012

Does that s-hook work with all existing prince "O" racquets?

COPEY · Jan 19, 2012

nalvarado said:
Does that s-hook work with all existing prince "O" racquets?

I've only strung a Prince Ozone 4, Prince Ozone 7 (same type of ports) and an EXO 3 Blue. You have to widen one end a little for it to work on an EXO 3 (if not it's too tight for the center port), but it'll still work on the Ozone sticks.

KerryR · Jan 19, 2012

Good idea using heat shrink on the S-hook, even if it's not really necessary!

I saw the old thread a while ago, but didn't really understand how it worked-- thanks for posting the link to the video. I get it now.

I'll have to try this on my next O-port.

sundaypunch · Jan 19, 2012

fortun8son said:
Hmm... I think I like the term O-Holes!

Good thing they aren't A-shaped.

PBODY99 · Jan 19, 2012

Pavlos said:
What was the idea behind the O-ports? Is there any actual advantage to them, or is it just an issue of a different style that Prince wanted to push into the market?

I play with the ports, they do open up the string bed and I find that the sonic feedback on my serve helpful.

Copey:
I"ll have to set up a S hook, even though I use the 50/50 method, just because I enjoyed the sound track ! Thank you.

alidisperanza · Feb 9, 2012

skipped over a lot of the extra, so, sorry if it has been mentioned

You don't need any fancy tools or any fancy methods. All you need to do is lock the tabletop from spinning around as you pull strings. Just make sure the pull angle is not too extreme. If you have fixed clamps, make sure they're clean and they'll hold the string in place no problem. Once your clamp is set, unlock the rotation of your machine and continue to the next one

If you need further explanation I'll try to take pics next time I come across an O-port

JackB1 · Feb 14, 2012

alidisperanza said:
skipped over a lot of the extra, so, sorry if it has been mentioned

You don't need any fancy tools or any fancy methods. All you need to do is lock the tabletop from spinning around as you pull strings. Just make sure the pull angle is not too extreme. If you have fixed clamps, make sure they're clean and they'll hold the string in place no problem. Once your clamp is set, unlock the rotation of your machine and continue to the next one

If you need further explanation I'll try to take pics next time I come across an O-port

I would think its easier to use an S-hook than to lock and unlock the turntable over and over. Anyone else try this S-hook method? I am tempted to try it out.

COPEY · Feb 14, 2012

It is easier to use an s-hook. The problem with a lot of brakes is they actually allow the turntable to move ever so slightly. Even if your brake completely immobilizes the turntable, the process of applying/releasing the brake multiple times takes more effort than sliding an S-hook through a port.

Nothing fancy about it, and cost is negligible. If you try it and don't like it, you can always go back to the brake or use the 50/50. Me, I'm sold on the s-hook.

alidisperanza · Feb 14, 2012

Cool. I might have to give it a try sometimes. For now though, Braking works just fine. I don't really come across many O-ports for some reason

COPEY · Feb 15, 2012

alidisperanza said:
Cool. I might have to give it a try sometimes. For now though, Braking works just fine. I don't really come across many O-ports for some reason

I don't either, outside my house, that is. My son has two and the wife has one. I do teach a kid with an EXO 3 Blue, so that's four.

I forgot to add that if you own a 2086 Wise you're actually not supposed to use the brake when stringing sticks with o-ports, which is why I sought out another option besides 50/50 and the Boomerang.

jim e · Feb 15, 2012

I guess it depends on the machine that you use.
I use the brake for all of them and have no issues.
Very simple, pull out lever and its locked, push it in and its unlocked, hardly takes a second to lock it.
A newer version of my machine has an automatic brake option designed for o ports so when you tension the string, the table locks automatically, seems like a real convienent option to have.
For me the brake is the easiest way to string them.

COPEY · Feb 15, 2012

I agree, Jim - that's the point--it depends on the machine. With a "secure" braking mechanism there's no issue. I did it with mine when it was just a lockout. With adding a Wise (like many have done) and being told not to use the brake because it could damage the unit, your options are then limited to using the 50/50, Boomerang, cap of a pen or some other means to string sticks with O-ports.

Having said that, for me, even if I could use the brake with my Wise I'd still opt for the S-hook. I simply prefer it, and I don't ever have to worry about my brake (which is probably not as efficient as the one on the machine you use) slipping.

JackB1 · Feb 15, 2012

COPEY said:
It is easier to use an s-hook. The problem with a lot of brakes is they actually allow the turntable to move ever so slightly. Even if your brake completely immobilizes the turntable, the process of applying/releasing the brake multiple times takes more effort than sliding an S-hook through a port.

Nothing fancy about it, and cost is negligible. If you try it and don't like it, you can always go back to the brake or use the 50/50. Me, I'm sold on the s-hook.

Can you explain in detail how you use the S hooks in detail? The video moves too fast too see exactly what you are doing.

My brake is a pain to use....you have to twist it about 5-7 times to lock and then untwist to unlock. Gets old after a while.

COPEY · Feb 15, 2012

It's not my video; I found it online, gave it a try and decided I preferred it to the 50/50 or boomerang.

As for the video itself, it's pretty self-explanatory; you hook one end in a port and the string through the other end, pull tension. I'll post a pic later today since I just got a Prince Ozone 7 in yesterday to restring.

ten11 · Feb 15, 2012

Carolina Racquet said:
I've strung many Prince O3 and EXO3 frames and IMO the 2 piece 50/50 pattern is the easy solution.

It will not damage the frame and it makes stringing these frames pretty easy with no boomerang tools or brakes.

Here's a YouTube video done by Irvin that helped me alot when before I changed to the 2 piece 50/50:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9kRV5HQpD4

Good Luck.

I like this 50/50 solution even though I have used my awl to spacing string out while pulling the tension and worked really well. (The neck of awl worked really well and easy to put in and take out if the awl got a "neck".)
But based on this video, seems to me it needs two starting clamp. I don't think many of us got two. Is there any way around it? The method HAVE TO use starting clamp to tie the knot.

Irvin · Feb 15, 2012

Here is a newer video for the two piece 50/50.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFgRAePLzVE

Only one starting clamp or flying clamp is necessary.

Nellie · Feb 15, 2012

Also, you don't need a starting clamp. If you use one clamp for holding the starting position, you can string to the top using a single clamp (by alternating tensioning and clamping). The benefit of using two clamps is that you won't have to redo the whole thing if your clamp slips/ you forget to clamp before releasing tension, etc.

By the way, if you are going 50/50 be really careful about how you start, because you will be really annoyed at yourself if you start at the wrong side and get diagonal crosses.

Irvin · Feb 15, 2012

Nellie said:
Also, you don't need a starting clamp. If you use one clamp for holding the starting position, you can string to the top using a single clamp (by alternating tensioning and clamping). The benefit of using two clamps is that you won't have to redo the whole thing if your clamp slips/ you forget to clamp before releasing tension, etc.

By the way, if you are going 50/50 be really careful about how you start, because you will be really annoyed at yourself if you start at the wrong side and get diagonal crosses.

If you are using flying clamps or glide bar clamps yes two will work you just start the crosses in the center and string the crosses just like the mains. Prince recommends you never get more than two crosses ahead on the top before switching to the bottom. Never get ahead on the bottom.

If you start in the wrong place and have diagonal string you should notice it real fast.

Xpherex · Feb 15, 2012

I just got my half stringer, waiting for some other parts but watching this video looks pretty easy if you got the drop weight or some electric i guess http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=jf_7lfBnOIA#t=142s
I haven't tried it just looks not that complex, I guess just needs some practice.

Irvin · Feb 15, 2012

Xpherex said:
I just got my half stringer, waiting for some other parts but watching this video looks pretty easy if you got the drop weight or some electric i guess http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=jf_7lfBnOIA#t=142s
I haven't tried it just looks not that complex, I guess just needs some practice.

Still looking at getting a table top drop weight? If you do you will see how difficult it is to adjust the drop weight while you are hold the racket still on the table which the stringer sliding off the table.

It looked each in the YULitle's video because he has a floor model stringer which weighs more and does not slide as easy on the carpet. Also he does not have to get his drop weight arm to balance (which takes two hands by the way) while he is holding the racket still relative to the turntable. It is also a little easier to get his hip up against the racket because there is no table in his way.

Xpherex · Feb 15, 2012

Irvin said:
Still looking at getting a table top drop weight? If you do you will see how difficult it is to adjust the drop weight while you are hold the racket still on the table which the stringer sliding off the table.

It looked each in the YULitle's video because he has a floor model stringer which weighs more and does not slide as easy on the carpet. Also he does not have to get his drop weight arm to balance (which takes two hands by the way) while he is holding the racket still relative to the turntable. It is also a little easier to get his hip up against the racket because there is no table in his way.

I understand that, maybe that only looks like this well basically I have already got the stringer but clamps, weight and some other parts are sent separately. I can mount the racket but I cannot string, I'm trying to save strings because there is only 1 racket left for me, but at least it was a good opportunity to play with my old rackets that I haven't touched for long time. The stringer without weight, fixed clamps, and other small parts is 41 lbs.

From the description of the drop weight "major advantages: 1. it can be operated with one hand" - I don't really understand that but anyway.

Also, I broke 5 rackets already that I will have what to practice on. 6th one on the way.

COPEY · Feb 15, 2012

JackB1 said:
Can you explain in detail how you use the S hooks in detail? The video moves too fast too see exactly what you are doing.

Here ya go, Jack:

S-Hook_1 & S-Hook_2

If your brake is slipping, this is definitely the way to go. It's hassle free. ;-)

JackB1 · Feb 16, 2012

COPEY said:
Here ya go, Jack:

S-Hook_1 & S-Hook_2

If your brake is slipping, this is definitely the way to go. It's hassle free. ;-)

thanks I'm going to give this a shot tonite. I picked up a metal and plastic 2.5" S hook.

JackB1 · Feb 16, 2012

damn, my S hooks are too thick. Gotta try and find thinner ones.

COPEY · Feb 16, 2012

Did you take note of the thickness of the one I use? I simply went to the hardware store and bought a variety of sizes and kept the one that worked the best - returned the others.

JackB1 · Feb 16, 2012

COPEY said:
Did you take note of the thickness of the one I use? I simply went to the hardware store and bought a variety of sizes and kept the one that worked the best - returned the others.

no I didnt

I hope I can find a thinner one. The O Ports in the new Rebel 98 seem smaller than older EXO frames.

COPEY · Feb 17, 2012

Hmmm...I just looked at a pic of the Rebel 98 and the Exo 3 Blue, and the port sizes look to be the same. Let me know if you can't find a smaller s-hook; I'll send ya one.

JackB1 · Feb 17, 2012

COPEY said:
Hmmm...I just looked at a pic of the Rebel 98 and the Exo 3 Blue, and the port sizes look to be the same. Let me know if you can't find a smaller s-hook; I'll send ya one.

its hard to tell from pics. The port holes taper inward and the opening is smaller than it looks. I'll go back to Home Depot and look for thinner hooks. Do they have to bee exactly 2 1/2" to work?

Irvin · Feb 17, 2012

JackB1 said:
its hard to tell from pics. The port holes taper inward and the opening is smaller than it looks. I'll go back to Home Depot and look for thinner hooks. Do they have to bee exactly 2 1/2" to work?

That will depend on the distance between the ports. If the string bends too much you have more friction and more tension loss. You would be better off getting the boomerangs.

JackB1 · Feb 17, 2012

Irvin said:
That will depend on the distance between the ports. If the string bends too much you have more friction and more tension loss. You would be better off getting the boomerangs.

but I have racquets to string now. There must be something else that can replicate the boomerang? Irvin didn't you say you used socket wrench inserts or something? Also how about if you just tighten the fixed clamp down, but leave the jaws open? Then you tension and close the clamp? Would that work?

Irvin · Feb 17, 2012

^^Yes at first I used either a 3/8 or 1/2 inch socket extension and they worked well. It offers very little friction because it is round and hard and the extension will virtually ride along the string. That is a good method if you are stringing from the top down and don't want the friction caused by the boomerang.

I would not put the clamp on the string and pull tension. The string will be pulled up past the bottom of the O Port (where it needs to be) and when you remove the clamp you loose lots of tension when the string settles.

EDIT: That may work with flying clamps because the distance from string to string is about the width of the clamp.

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