Questions about Co-polymer strings

Overdrive

Legend
There's always recommendations that racquets should be strung at low 40's. Why is that? I forgot what happens to the racquet strung like this, but I don't need an overpowered racquet. I can generate it myself. Second question: does the racquet become stiff if strung at 58/56? I just don't want to get injured over stringing it too tight.

I'm using BB Bomber (17g) and plan on getting the 16g version.
Here's my plan.

Racquet 1: Recommended set-up for more control
Racquet 2: See above
Racquet 3: 2-3 lbs tighter
Racquet 4: 2-3 lbs looser

I'm a stringing novice, so any help is welcome.
 

seekay

Semi-Pro
There's always recommendations that racquets should be strung at low 40's. Why is that? I forgot what happens to the racquet strung like this, but I don't need an overpowered racquet. I can generate it myself. Second question: does the racquet become stiff if strung at 58/56? I just don't want to get injured over stringing it too tight.

I'm using BB Bomber (17g) and plan on getting the 16g version.
Here's my plan.

Racquet 1: Recommended set-up for more control
Racquet 2: See above
Racquet 3: 2-3 lbs tighter
Racquet 4: 2-3 lbs looser

I'm a stringing novice, so any help is welcome.

There are a few reasons for the advice:

1. Poly doesn't really gain power and lose control like nylon or gut strings when you drop the tension.

2. Poly is generally stiffer than other strings. Dropping the tension creates a softer stringbed.

3. Dropping the tension can reduce inter-string friction, allowing the main strings to more easily slide across the crosses and snap back, giving even more spin.

When my customers want to try poly for the first time, I usually recommend stringing it at the bottom of their frame's recommended tension range and iterating from there. In my experience, most (but not all) people prefer to slowly drop the tension over time until they find their own personal sweet spot.
 

Overdrive

Legend
There are a few reasons for the advice:

1. Poly doesn't really gain power and lose control like nylon or gut strings when you drop the tension.

2. Poly is generally stiffer than other strings. Dropping the tension creates a softer stringbed.

3. Dropping the tension can reduce inter-string friction, allowing the main strings to more easily slide across the crosses and snap back, giving even more spin.

When my customers want to try poly for the first time, I usually recommend stringing it at the bottom of their frame's recommended tension range and iterating from there. In my experience, most (but not all) people prefer to slowly drop the tension over time until they find their own personal sweet spot.

Okay, I don't have to worry too much about tension management.

Interesting. The recommendation for my racquet is +2 lbs tighter on the mains. So, I could string it at 50/48.

Hold on, I leaded my frame at 12:00. How does this set-up affect the racquet?
 

seekay

Semi-Pro
Hold on, I leaded my frame at 12:00. How does this set-up affect the racquet?

Leading at 12:00 increases swingweight, so you get more plough through and power.

Because it's so dependent on your technique, it's hard to say whether higher or lower tension will accentuate what you like about a higher swingweight; it can go either way. Start with a setup that you expect to work and when you restring, change one variable at a time and evaluate whether it's brilliant or rubbish (or both).
 

Overdrive

Legend
Leading at 12:00 increases swingweight, so you get more plough through and power.

Because it's so dependent on your technique, it's hard to say whether higher or lower tension will accentuate what you like about a higher swingweight; it can go either way. Start with a setup that you expect to work and when you restring, change one variable at a time and evaluate whether it's brilliant or rubbish (or both).

Thanks. That is true.

I just weighed my racquet and it's 14.75 ounces.. :eek:

The beam width is so thin, that it feels like a 11 ounce racquet. :lol:
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Thanks. That is true.

I just weighed my racquet and it's 14.75 ounces.. :eek:

The beam width is so thin, that it feels like a 11 ounce racquet. :lol:

You put enough weight on the top of the head to bring it up to 14.75 oz. and it feels like an 11 oz. racket? That does not compute unless you holding the head.
 

Overdrive

Legend
You put enough weight on the top of the head to bring it up to 14.75 oz. and it feels like an 11 oz. racket? That does not compute unless you holding the head.

My racquet is literally one of the most arm friendly frames in the market. I guess I have to go to court and play with it. My first statement should be irrelevant.



Updated specs (before stringing with co-poly & leather grip):


Weight: 14.55 oz
Balance: 5,8 HL
SW: 375.6
Power index % (center): 45.36
Plow index% (center): 34.3
 

gmatheis

Hall of Fame
My racquet is literally one of the most arm friendly frames in the market. I guess I have to go to court and play with it. My first statement should be irrelevant.



Updated specs (before stringing with co-poly & leather grip):


Weight: 14.55 oz
Balance: 5,8 HL
SW: 375.6
Power index % (center): 45.36
Plow index% (center): 34.3

How on earth did you add enough lead to the head to make it 14.55oz and maintain almost 6 points headlight?

Did you by chance also add weight to the handle?
 

Dags

Hall of Fame
3.25 oz is 92.136g.

1/4" lead tape is typically 0.25g per inch. That gives us 368.54 inches.

Did you really add 30 feet of lead tape to the head of your racquet? (and if so, I'm torn between asking why and requesting a picture of it... I think I'll side with the picture.)
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
3.25 oz is 92.136g.

1/4" lead tape is typically 0.25g per inch. That gives us 368.54 inches.

Did you really add 30 feet of lead tape to the head of your racquet? (and if so, I'm torn between asking why and requesting a picture of it... I think I'll side with the picture.)

I'm with you Dags, I use Glof Wroks 1/2" lead tape and it weighs 1g per inch. I cut it in half so it's 1/4" wide but still it's two time the weight of normal tape. Not so sure the OP is not leading us astray.

EDIT: If the racket is now 5.8 pts HL with 3.25 oz. of lead added to the head imagine how HL it had to be before.
 
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Overdrive

Legend
3.25 oz is 92.136g.

1/4" lead tape is typically 0.25g per inch. That gives us 368.54 inches.

Did you really add 30 feet of lead tape to the head of your racquet? (and if so, I'm torn between asking why and requesting a picture of it... I think I'll side with the picture.)

Yeah... :oops:

When I'll get all 5 racquets matched, strung, and gripped, I'lll bump the thread to the 'Post A Picture of....."

I used 1/4 because rhe lead's width fit the beam width of the racquet (it could fit the racquet without cutting the lead and wasting it).
 

Overdrive

Legend
I'm with you Dags, I use Glof Wroks 1/2" lead tape and it weighs 1g per inch. I cut it in half so it's 1/4" wide but still it's two time the weight of normal tape. Not so sure the OP is not leading us astray.

EDIT: If the racket is now 5.8 pts HL with 3.25 oz. of lead added to the head imagine how HL it had to be before.

1/2 lead tape waa too wide for me. I wasted $15 buying both lead & head tape. on TW.

In stock, the racquet was 1.1 HL.
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
1/2 lead tape waa too wide for me. I wasted $15 buying both lead & head tape. on TW.

In stock, the racquet was 1.1 HL.

If your racket is 1.1 whatever HL and you add 3.25 oz of lead at 12:00 it is IMPOSSIBLE to make the racket more head light.

EDIT: Are you sure your racket is not now 5.8 something HH?
 
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Overdrive

Legend
If your racket is 1.1 whatever HL and you add 3.25 oz of lead at 12:00 it is IMPOSSIBLE to make the racket more head light.

EDIT: Are you sure your racket is not now 5.8 something HH?

Really? I calculated everything though..

It seriously cannot get past 1.1? This was done on TW calculator.
 
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Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Irvin, 1.5 at 12, 1.75 at throat .

Balance your racket on a round pen or pencil. Measure the distance from the tip of the butt cap to the balance point. Measure the overall length of the racket. The difference between the balance point and the center of the racket in 1/8" increments is the number of points HH or HL
 

fortun8son

Hall of Fame
No, I added 1.5 oz to the hoop and 1.75 oz to the throat.

When you say throat, do you mean at 6o'clock in the hoop or down in the 'Y' of the yoke?
The yoke is well behind the balance point and adding weight there can easily account for the HL balance.
 

Overdrive

Legend
When you say throat, do you mean at 6o'clock in the hoop or down in the 'Y' of the yoke?
The yoke is well behind the balance point and adding weight there can easily account for the HL balance.

The 'Y' of the yoke. Basically, there is lead where the specs are usually on a racquet.
I knew it. There is no way it was HH. I'm going to have a second opinion weigh these racquets.
 

fortun8son

Hall of Fame
So... back to the original question.
Stringing poly at 58/56 will create a very stiff stringbed.
I don't recommend going over 54.
Manufacturer's recommended tensions are for nylon-based strings.
 

Overdrive

Legend
So... back to the original question.
Stringing poly at 58/56 will create a very stiff stringbed.
I don't recommend going over 54.
Manufacturer's recommended tensions are for nylon-based strings.

Really? I didn't know that.

On Babolats, the recommend tensions based on their expensive gut.

Don't go over 54? Thanks. :)
 

DirtBaller4

Rookie
I like the crosses lower like 50 and the mains around 54. This is great for full bed Poly.

I use MSV fous hex 17 in the mains and volkl cyclone in the crosses. Awesome combo!
 
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