The Official Wilson Pro Staff 95s Fan Club

asifallasleep

Hall of Fame
8 hours and my trusty Volkl Cyclone 16 gauge strung at 48lbs were goners in this frame. Cyclone would never break in my K90's. Gonna try the RipSpin 15 gauge.
 

chrisberchris

Semi-Pro
So I added a leather grip (took off sublime) and added 4 grams to 2 and 9, then 2 grams to 12. Still doesn't feel like it has enough plow through though. It's up to 348 grams as of now. I guess I will keep adding lead.. I didn't get the pop I thought I would on serve either.
 

Automatix

Legend
So I added a leather grip (took off sublime) and added 4 grams to 2 and 9, then 2 grams to 12. Still doesn't feel like it has enough plow through though. It's up to 348 grams as of now. I guess I will keep adding lead.. I didn't get the pop I thought I would on serve either.
Question. Did you happen to notice how the handle looks like?

Is it a standard Amplifeel handle?
amplif11.jpg


Thx.
 

Isn_fish

New User
So, we can say that most of us are reaching 6 to 10 hours in each string set, from what I see. Yes, that sounds scary for a lot of people, but let be just leave a question for you?
- If most of polys goes dead after 10 hours of hitting (in average), do you cut your strings after that?

I'm saying that because at first, I've got a little scared by the "string eaters" rackets. But also realised that I do never leave a string for more that 12 hours hitting in my rackets. In example, I hate solinco tour bite after this 10 to 12 hour period... This would mean that my string usage will be pretty similiar, correct?
 

Sparky

Semi-Pro
So, we can say that most of us are reaching 6 to 10 hours in each string set, from what I see. Yes, that sounds scary for a lot of people, but let be just leave a question for you?
- If most of polys goes dead after 10 hours of hitting (in average), do you cut your strings after that?

I'm saying that because at first, I've got a little scared by the "string eaters" rackets. But also realised that I do never leave a string for more that 12 hours hitting in my rackets. In example, I hate solinco tour bite after this 10 to 12 hour period... This would mean that my string usage will be pretty similiar, correct?

Regarding string life, I have recently come back to tennis and the whole poly thing is new to me. I like to get 6 hours out of my strings. I noticed that is when I can notice they die / go flat. I asked folks I meet how long their strings last and most reply 2 or 3 months

Which brings to your post, you are right. Aren't the typical strings dead by that point anyway?

I'm still playing with straight Prince Synthetic Gut Original 17 or Gosen OG Sheep 17 @ 52lbs on a PS85. I have adapted to the new modern forehand and use a 1HBH.
 

PeterFig

Professional
8 hours and my trusty Volkl Cyclone 16 gauge strung at 48lbs were goners in this frame. Cyclone would never break in my K90's. Gonna try the RipSpin 15 gauge.

Big fan of Cyclone, but you are right - they did not last long in the 95S ... when compared to the RipSpin. I also found that the RipSpin moved more in the 95S creating better topspin. And when I say "moved" I mean moved down and then snapped back into place... creating that snap back action that I think is key to creating the extra spin with these "S" frames. The Cyclones probably due to their shaped nature didn't seem to exhibit this as much.
 
lux 4g 16(1.30) lasted less than 2 sets.
wilson ripskin 15g lasted 8 sets and counting (its still looking good). Feels good too. i'm a solid 4.0 who hits flat and big topspin too. Didn't want to go 15g but i aint that rich to keep restringing.
 

asifallasleep

Hall of Fame
Big fan of Cyclone, but you are right - they did not last long in the 95S ... when compared to the RipSpin. I also found that the RipSpin moved more in the 95S creating better topspin. And when I say "moved" I mean moved down and then snapped back into place... creating that snap back action that I think is key to creating the extra spin with these "S" frames. The Cyclones probably due to their shaped nature didn't seem to exhibit this as much.

Some would say that 8 hours is about right as far as the elasticity of a poly being optimum and therefore string breakage is fine. I've always strung my 90's in the 45-48 range, and with such low tension I really never had an issue playing with old strings in my frames. Sometimes it would take 6 months before the strings broke.

I ordered two more 95S frames with cyclone prior to experiencing the 8 hour breaking point. They arrive on Saturday. I am stringing the frame I already had with RipSpin and should have that on Tuesday.
 

corners

Legend
Big fan of Cyclone, but you are right - they did not last long in the 95S ... when compared to the RipSpin. I also found that the RipSpin moved more in the 95S creating better topspin. And when I say "moved" I mean moved down and then snapped back into place... creating that snap back action that I think is key to creating the extra spin with these "S" frames. The Cyclones probably due to their shaped nature didn't seem to exhibit this as much.

Peter, Cyclone is notching for you and Ripspin is not, correct? The shape of Cyclone should not affect main string sliding much, if at all. A Babolat official last year admitted that the shape of RPM Blast was meant not to "bite" the ball as everyone supposes, but to enhance sliding - two flat surfaces would slide along either other rather than two round ones digging into each other. In any case, notching is the great enemy of the snap back action. Synguts often have friction coefficients close to copoly strings, and will slide and snapback when brand new, but they quickly notch and lock into place. Copolys rarely lock up like that, but as soon as notches form you're looking at 20-40% less spin than when brand new because the mains can't slide and snapback freely. If Ripspin is notching significantly slower than other strings, I say stick with that.
 

SCRAP IRON

Professional
Peter, Cyclone is notching for you and Ripspin is not, correct? The shape of Cyclone should not affect main string sliding much, if at all. A Babolat official last year admitted that the shape of RPM Blast was meant not to "bite" the ball as everyone supposes, but to enhance sliding - two flat surfaces would slide along either other rather than two round ones digging into each other. In any case, notching is the great enemy of the snap back action. Synguts often have friction coefficients close to copoly strings, and will slide and snapback when brand new, but they quickly notch and lock into place. Copolys rarely lock up like that, but as soon as notches form you're looking at 20-40% less spin than when brand new because the mains can't slide and snapback freely. If Ripspin is notching significantly slower than other strings, I say stick with that.

Hey Corners-

I value your input. I own the PS 95s, and I am also experiencing difficulty in finding the right string set-up. My question is this- Instead of using a myriad of hybrids, I am thinking about going with a lively round co-poly that does NOT hold its tension well. I will use as an example the offering by PolyFibre- TCS Rapid. I want a powerful poly, but I believe that after it loses its tension, unlike a multi, this poly won't necessarily have the trampoline effect. Is this first of all accurate and is this a wise experiment? I realize that it could go "dead" but that may be the lesser of the two evils. If I were to do this, I would ultimately cut it out and re-string my frame after 15-20 sets regardless.
 

PeterFig

Professional
Peter, Cyclone is notching for you and Ripspin is not, correct? The shape of Cyclone should not affect main string sliding much, if at all. A Babolat official last year admitted that the shape of RPM Blast was meant not to "bite" the ball as everyone supposes, but to enhance sliding - two flat surfaces would slide along either other rather than two round ones digging into each other. In any case, notching is the great enemy of the snap back action. Synguts often have friction coefficients close to copoly strings, and will slide and snapback when brand new, but they quickly notch and lock into place. Copolys rarely lock up like that, but as soon as notches form you're looking at 20-40% less spin than when brand new because the mains can't slide and snapback freely. If Ripspin is notching significantly slower than other strings, I say stick with that.

To be honest it's only my guess that it's the shaping that's causing more notching on the Cyclone vs the RipSpin. It could be something completely different from coating on strings, to actual string makeup.

I did cut out the Cyclone before it snapped, so not sure how much shorter it would have lasted than RipSpin if at all ... but one thing is certain: it had visible notches on it in less hours than the RipSpin which showed basically no notching . I don't notice a huge difference between the two strings in playability - similar characteristics I think. I'm not super-sensitive to string changes so I might be missing some of the nuances.
 
Last edited:

gambitt

Banned
Has anyone tried the new PS95 16x19 version? I'm trying to decide between the 95 and the 95S. I like the idea of the open pattern but surely using a thicker 15L string in the 95S is akin to using a thinner string in the 95? I string my own racquets but I don't want to be breaking poly after 2 sets.
 

Isn_fish

New User
Has anyone tried the new PS95 16x19 version? I'm trying to decide between the 95 and the 95S. I like the idea of the open pattern but surely using a thicker 15L string in the 95S is akin to using a thinner string in the 95? I string my own racquets but I don't want to be breaking poly after 2 sets.

I guess that would depend also on your playing style, I've played two more hours with the racket, now with yonex poly tour spin 1.25, and strings do have some considerable notching, I'd say for one more hour...
Next text will be SPPP 1.33 and ripspin 1.30 also. I'm trying to find the correct string for me...
But the added spin on kick serves and groundstrokes just convinced me that It's worth the investment on strings... :)
But as for your question, I'd say that 16x19 is more from the same... And the 16x15 is something new to be tested and that could change your game. At least mine have changed
 

downdaline

Professional
I'm interested in this stick.

My usual setup is Tonic+ mains and Alu Power crosses. Has anyone tried something similar with the 95s?

I'm afraid it'll become difficult to control...
 

Isn_fish

New User
I'm interested in this stick.

My usual setup is Tonic+ mains and Alu Power crosses. Has anyone tried something similar with the 95s?

I'm afraid it'll become difficult to control...

I don't believe that you should have any control issues on this racket, as It has more low power characteristics. I'll probably try an alu power setup, but in full bed or with sin gut crosses....
 
anyone else using any poly strings here that are 16 gauges and are lasting 8 hours with them? i recommend 15g ripspin though. my tension is 44 or sometime 46. dont go that low if ur not as consistent or balls will be flying haha. but im loving this setup right now.
 

asifallasleep

Hall of Fame
anyone else using any poly strings here that are 16 gauges and are lasting 8 hours with them? i recommend 15g ripspin though. my tension is 44 or sometime 46. dont go that low if ur not as consistent or balls will be flying haha. but im loving this setup right now.

I usually string 45-48 with Cyclone 16. How many hours are you getting with RipSpin? My cyclone broke after 8 hours. I'm having a frame strung with RipSpin to try it out.
 

PeterFig

Professional
I customized my 95S a bit and played with it today. A nice but subtle difference in how it plays. Here is what I have done:
  • added a TW (1.3mm) leather grip
  • added Wilson Pro Overgrip
  • added two strips of 1/4" lead - each 5" in length - for a total of 10" right at 12 o'clock

I found it to be still quite 'whippy' when compared to my PS90, but the extra weight especially the lead at 12 created a bit more plow-through and pace on the ball.... and when I took a really aggressive (and high to low) cut at the ball the spin seemed even heavier. I'll customize my second 95S the same way.
 
I usually string 45-48 with Cyclone 16. How many hours are you getting with RipSpin? My cyclone broke after 8 hours. I'm having a frame strung with RipSpin to try it out.

still didnt break my ripspin 15g yet, its been about 10 sets already maybe around 15 hours now. its finally showing that its about to break. So this string will last if u dont wanna keep restringing and it feels good. my tension is 46.
 

SCRAP IRON

Professional
Hey Corners-

I value your input. I own the PS 95s, and I am also experiencing difficulty in finding the right string set-up. My question is this- Instead of using a myriad of hybrids, I am thinking about going with a lively round co-poly that does NOT hold its tension well. I will use as an example the offering by PolyFibre- TCS Rapid. I want a powerful poly, but I believe that after it loses its tension, unlike a multi, this poly won't necessarily have the trampoline effect. Is this first of all accurate and is this a wise experiment? I realize that it could go "dead" but that may be the lesser of the two evils. If I were to do this, I would ultimately cut it out and re-string my frame after 15-20 sets regardless.

Corners? Are you there?
 

asifallasleep

Hall of Fame
still didnt break my ripspin 15g yet, its been about 10 sets already maybe around 15 hours now. its finally showing that its about to break. So this string will last if u dont wanna keep restringing and it feels good. my tension is 46.

Oh cool, thanks for the update. I think i'd be fine with 15 hours on strings. Maybe RipSpin will be the way to go.
 

ed70

Professional
Played approx 18 hours now with rip spin 16g in a six one s. Look like new still, very impressed with string.
 

PeterFig

Professional
Played approx 18 hours now with rip spin 16g in a six one s. Look like new still, very impressed with string.

Great to hear ... I'm now over 12hrs on my 17's in my PS95S.

I'm still not sure about tension. I have one frame around 55lb and one around 51/52lb. Hard to say which I prefer. As long as I take a big cut at the ball the lower tension feels better, but I do feel on some flatter shots / blocked shots I like the control of the higher tension.

Anyone have any experiences with increasing / decreasing tension in this frame?
 

asifallasleep

Hall of Fame
I customized my 95S a bit and played with it today. A nice but subtle difference in how it plays. Here is what I have done:
  • added a TW (1.3mm) leather grip
  • added Wilson Pro Overgrip
  • added two strips of 1/4" lead - each 5" in length - for a total of 10" right at 12 o'clock

I found it to be still quite 'whippy' when compared to my PS90, but the extra weight especially the lead at 12 created a bit more plow-through and pace on the ball.... and when I took a really aggressive (and high to low) cut at the ball the spin seemed even heavier. I'll customize my second 95S the same way.

I'm playing mine pretty much stock now but when i did attempt to put lead on the frame it kept coming off because of the smooth finish. How are you keeping the lead on? Are you putting it under the head guard?
 

tinyman

Rookie
I noticed that putting a bit of masking tape on the frame, and adhering the lead tape onto that did the trick. Doesn't look beautiful, but it works while you figure out where you want everything. Didn't come off, if nothing else.
 

PeterFig

Professional

chrisberchris

Semi-Pro
Well I have decided that the frame is too flexible for me. I like the touch shots but hate it on serve and ground strokes. I like my blade tour too much.
 

ed70

Professional
Great to hear ... I'm now over 12hrs on my 17's in my PS95S.

I'm still not sure about tension. I have one frame around 55lb and one around 51/52lb. Hard to say which I prefer. As long as I take a big cut at the ball the lower tension feels better, but I do feel on some flatter shots / blocked shots I like the control of the higher tension.

Anyone have any experiences with increasing / decreasing tension in this frame?

Strung at 57, plays great probably lost a bit of tension now. I Can have a real rip at every ball and not worry about over hitting.
 

SCRAP IRON

Professional
Well I have decided that the frame is too flexible for me. I like the touch shots but hate it on serve and ground strokes. I like my blade tour too much.

I use the PS 95s and and I too found it more flexible than I would like. However, I put lead at the top of the frame and that was the answer. before you give up on this performance oriented frame, you should try putting lead on top spanning 11-1 o'clock.
 

SCRAP IRON

Professional
Great to hear ... I'm now over 12hrs on my 17's in my PS95S.

I'm still not sure about tension. I have one frame around 55lb and one around 51/52lb. Hard to say which I prefer. As long as I take a big cut at the ball the lower tension feels better, but I do feel on some flatter shots / blocked shots I like the control of the higher tension.

Anyone have any experiences with increasing / decreasing tension in this frame?

Strung at 57, plays great probably lost a bit of tension now. I Can have a real rip at every ball and not worry about over hitting.

Hey men- What string are you referring to and what type of strokes do you have? I have been experimenting unsuccessfully with some poly strings and their tension.
 

chrisberchris

Semi-Pro
I use the PS 95s and and I too found it more flexible than I would like. However, I put lead at the top of the frame and that was the answer. before you give up on this performance oriented frame, you should try putting lead on top spanning 11-1 o'clock.

I have experimented a lot with lead. Had a few grams at 9 and 3 and 12. Then tried 10 and 2 and 12. Maybe I'll try the 11-1, thanks! I want to like this frame, I just don't want to sacrifice what I have now with my blade. I'll end up demoing the c10 pro, 6.1 95, and vcore 97 tour 330 as I want to switch to a larger head size but maintain the control
 

SCRAP IRON

Professional
I have experimented a lot with lead. Had a few grams at 9 and 3 and 12. Then tried 10 and 2 and 12. Maybe I'll try the 11-1, thanks! I want to like this frame, I just don't want to sacrifice what I have now with my blade. I'll end up demoing the c10 pro, 6.1 95, and vcore 97 tour 330 as I want to switch to a larger head size but maintain the control

That sounds like a plan!
 

PeterFig

Professional
Hey men- What string are you referring to and what type of strokes do you have? I have been experimenting unsuccessfully with some poly strings and their tension.

I have both my PS95S strung with the Wilson RipSpin 17's. One was strung at 55lb the other at either 51 or 52lb.

I've been playing for years the the PS90's all strung with a hybrid setup, lately it's been either Champion's Choice (~51lb) or Gosen OG Sheep / Cyclone (~51lb). Polys in crosses in both cases.

I have fairly big and loopy strokes, one handed backhand and I think I have a fairly all court game.
 

SCRAP IRON

Professional
I have both my PS95S strung with the Wilson RipSpin 17's. One was strung at 55lb the other at either 51 or 52lb.

I've been playing for years the the PS90's all strung with a hybrid setup, lately it's been either Champion's Choice (~51lb) or Gosen OG Sheep / Cyclone (~51lb). Polys in crosses in both cases.

I have fairly big and loopy strokes, one handed backhand and I think I have a fairly all court game.

Thanks for the response. I really enjoy this frame but I have not found a set up that I can hang my hat on. I really liked a gut/poly hybrid, but only 4 to 5 sets won't cut it.
 

corners

Legend
To be honest it's only my guess that it's the shaping that's causing more notching on the Cyclone vs the RipSpin. It could be something completely different from coating on strings, to actual string makeup.

I did cut out the Cyclone before it snapped, so not sure how much shorter it would have lasted than RipSpin if at all ... but one thing is certain: it had visible notches on it in less hours than the RipSpin which showed basically no notching . I don't notice a huge difference between the two strings in playability - similar characteristics I think. I'm not super-sensitive to string changes so I might be missing some of the nuances.

Thanks Peter. Ripspin sounds very interesting. Notching has been showing to reduce a string's spin potential by 20-40% - which is approximately the difference between copoly and syngut - so any string that resists notching is noteworthy.
 

PeterFig

Professional
I used the Babolat Tungsten tape. Flew right off the frame. And it's expensive @ $9.99 for 9 grams!!!

Yes that can add up - especially when it's flying off to the next court :)

I've used the Gamma lead tape, the unmarked TW lead tape, and a Tourna Lead Tape.... just from memory the Gamma seems to be the stickiest so that's probably why it's still hanging on for dear life on the PS95S
 
Last edited:

PeterFig

Professional
Thanks for the response. I really enjoy this frame but I have not found a set up that I can hang my hat on. I really liked a gut/poly hybrid, but only 4 to 5 sets won't cut it.

I haven't tried gut/poly in the PS95S yet -- have been told an all poly setup like RipSpin just works better on these SpinEffect frames. However on one of my next restrings I might try the gut/poly combo on one frame. My current stringing machine is just about dead (clamps are shot, etc) so I dare not try stringing gut on it as chances are it'll mess it up. I've ordered a new Neos 1500 from TW so when I get that I'll probably give the gut/poly combo a try.
 
Last edited:

JT_2eighty

Hall of Fame
This racquet has amazing feel. Demo'd recently, alongside the non-S PS95. Both are sweet at the net especially.

Sadly the 95S demo had SYN Gut in it and broke during warmup! heh. I need to try it with poly. I found them both very maneuverable, and lighter than what I like, but seem like awesome platforms for lead & customization.

Some lead and a leather grip, could be a contender... but I'd have to buy one, meh.
 

corners

Legend
Hey Corners-

I value your input. I own the PS 95s, and I am also experiencing difficulty in finding the right string set-up. My question is this- Instead of using a myriad of hybrids, I am thinking about going with a lively round co-poly that does NOT hold its tension well. I will use as an example the offering by PolyFibre- TCS Rapid. I want a powerful poly, but I believe that after it loses its tension, unlike a multi, this poly won't necessarily have the trampoline effect. Is this first of all accurate and is this a wise experiment? I realize that it could go "dead" but that may be the lesser of the two evils. If I were to do this, I would ultimately cut it out and re-string my frame after 15-20 sets regardless.

I think it would be a much better idea to string a copoly with good tension maintenance looser at the start rather than string a copoly with crap tension-maintenance tighter and then wait for it to get looser. Maybe I don't really understand what you're after, though. If you think that's the case, feel free to give me a little more info. I'm happy to give you my two cents, but keep in mind that I have very little real experience with 16x15 and similar patterns.

What I think is pretty clear at this point, however, is:

1. If your objective is to take advantage of the benefits of freely moving main strings and the additional spin that they can generate, then syngut and multi crosses are anathema. Forget about them.

2. The softer copolys are getting quite close to syngut in terms of stiffness. I don't think a full bed of copoly should be feared by people who have always used a syngut or multi cross in order to soften the stringbed with copoly mains.

3. This is especially so in 16x15 and similar patterns because the reduced number of crosses significantly reduces the total stringbed stiffness. This is just a ballpark, but I would guess that the total stringbed stiffness of copoly/mutli in a 16x19 would be roughly equivalent to the total stringbed stiffness of full copoly in a 16x15 (strung at the same tension).

4. When mains are free to slide sideways and snapback, dwell time is increased, which reduces the shock of impact. Therefore, a full bed of copoly, which is likely to slide freely, will probably feel even softer in a 16x15 pattern than would a hybrid copoly/multi setup in the same racquet, once the mains and crosses in the latter have notched and "locked."
 

corners

Legend
This racquet has amazing feel. Demo'd recently, alongside the non-S PS95. Both are sweet at the net especially.

Sadly the 95S demo had SYN Gut in it and broke during warmup! heh. I need to try it with poly. I found them both very maneuverable, and lighter than what I like, but seem like awesome platforms for lead & customization.

Some lead and a leather grip, could be a contender... but I'd have to buy one, meh.
JT, would you say the PS95 is as flexible as 280/630?
 

SCRAP IRON

Professional
I think it would be a much better idea to string a copoly with good tension maintenance looser at the start rather than string a copoly with crap tension-maintenance tighter and then wait for it to get looser. Maybe I don't really understand what you're after, though. If you think that's the case, feel free to give me a little more info. I'm happy to give you my two cents, but keep in mind that I have very little real experience with 16x15 and similar patterns.

What I think is pretty clear at this point, however, is:

1. If your objective is to take advantage of the benefits of freely moving main strings and the additional spin that they can generate, then syngut and multi crosses are anathema. Forget about them.

2. The softer copolys are getting quite close to syngut in terms of stiffness. I don't think a full bed of copoly should be feared by people who have always used a syngut or multi cross in order to soften the stringbed with copoly mains.

3. This is especially so in 16x15 and similar patterns because the reduced number of crosses significantly reduces the total stringbed stiffness. This is just a ballpark, but I would guess that the total stringbed stiffness of copoly/mutli in a 16x19 would be roughly equivalent to the total stringbed stiffness of full copoly in a 16x15 (strung at the same tension).

4. When mains are free to slide sideways and snapback, dwell time is increased, which reduces the shock of impact. Therefore, a full bed of copoly, which is likely to slide freely, will probably feel even softer in a 16x15 pattern than would a hybrid copoly/multi setup in the same racquet, once the mains and crosses in the latter have notched and "locked."

Thanks for the input. The problem that I foresee is the fact that tension maintenance is so poor in co-polys that I would not enjoy the response/feedback in a full poly set-up after a few hours. That is why I am intrigued about RipSpin from Wilson, because it seems to hold tension fairly well by the various accounts on this forum. I mentioned TCS Rapid because I do want as much power from my poly strings as possible, considering my most recent set up was a hybrid of natural gut mains and smooth poly crosses! Obviously I am moving away from that hybrid because it's not cost effective in a "spin effect" frame.
 

JT_2eighty

Hall of Fame
JT, would you say the PS95 is as flexible as 280/630?

Yes. It felt softer.

Although, this may be due to the difference in "hoop flex" vs "throat flex", but I couldn't put my finger on it.

I'm not completely sure how to interpret various levels of flex like that, but see people toss those terms around, and to me it seems to make sense that a hoop or throat can have different stiffness within a frame. If I had to stab at it, the PS95 flexes more in the hoop, allowing for the deft volleys and slices, while the PT280/630 is a bit more crisp in the hoop, yet has a nice throat flex that still keeps the overall comfort and control of the frame top notch, yet has a touch extra power built in. I know the numbers have the PS95 & 95S flexing in the 62-4 range, so some of this is also likely due to the open patterns as compared to my racquet's dense stringbed.

Either way, it was a really soft, amazing racquet for feel. It made me want to serve and volley exclusively, as the maneuverability and lightness at net paired with the feel was a great combo. However, compared completely to the PT280/630, I couldn't serve as heavy, nor hit groundies with the same confidence and depth. Part of this of course is due to it having demo string and only using it for a couple days for fun, but the other part may be that the PT280 has the slightly 'crisper' head (or throat, who knows).
 
Last edited:

corners

Legend
Yes. It felt softer.

Although, this may be due to the difference in "hoop flex" vs "throat flex", but I couldn't put my finger on it.

I'm not completely sure how to interpret various levels of flex like that, but see people toss those terms around, and to me it seems to make sense that a hoop or throat can have different stiffness within a frame. If I had to stab at it, the PS95 flexes more in the hoop, allowing for the deft volleys and slices, while the PT280/630 is a bit more crisp in the hoop, yet has a nice throat flex that still keeps the overall comfort and control of the frame top notch, yet has a touch extra power built in. I know the numbers have the PS95 & 95S flexing in the 62-4 range, so some of this is also likely due to the open patterns as compared to my racquet's dense stringbed.

Either way, it was a really soft, amazing racquet for feel. It made me want to serve and volley exclusively, as the maneuverability and lightness at net paired with the feel was a great combo. However, compared completely to the PT280/630, I couldn't serve as heavy, nor hit groundies with the same confidence and depth. Part of this of course is due to it having demo string and only using it for a couple days for fun, but the other part may be that the PT280 has the slightly 'crisper' head (or throat, who knows).

Thanks for taking a stab! I suspect you sussed it pretty well, but I haven't hit either frame (only the previous PS95), so how would I know! :) It would be really interesting to hear your comparison with the PS95 with enough lead in the hoop to match your PT280s. Then, at least, the hitting weight variable would be removed and you'd be comparing only stiffness and stringbed density.
 

corners

Legend
Thanks for the input. The problem that I foresee is the fact that tension maintenance is so poor in co-polys that I would not enjoy the response/feedback in a full poly set-up after a few hours. That is why I am intrigued about RipSpin from Wilson, because it seems to hold tension fairly well by the various accounts on this forum. I mentioned TCS Rapid because I do want as much power from my poly strings as possible, considering my most recent set up was a hybrid of natural gut mains and smooth poly crosses! Obviously I am moving away from that hybrid because it's not cost effective in a "spin effect" frame.

Keep in mind that the polys with the reputations for most "power" are those that lose the most tension, like TCS. If you look at the entire family of polys, their energy return varies from about 80% efficiency to 90% efficiency. This is one side of the "power" coin. The other side is string stiffness. Here there is more variation: At 50 pounds of tension you'll find some polys with stiffness of 300 pounds/inch and others around 200 pounds/inch. If you compare the stiffer polys with good tension maintenance and the softer ones with poor tension maintenance, the difference is even greater - maybe 280-150. Of the two qualities, stiffness is more important, if only because the variation is so much greater. If you're going all copoly and want as much power as possible in a 16x15, I would look at the copolys that hold tension well but also have low stiffness and high energy return. Ripspin looks pretty decent and the reports of very slow notching are very encouraging.

But you're always going to have less power with these patterns. When the mains are free to slide some of the string rebound energy that would launch the ball forward is diverted upward. If the tension is right this upward energy will be converted to spin. So you'll have a little less speed and a little more spin. A good tradeoff for some players. However, if the tension is too loose and the strings slide too far, that energy will go into launch the ball vertically, rather than into spin. This might give you depth, but the ball will still be slower than if the strings hadn't moved.

Gut/poly would be a nice solution (provided you got the tension right!), but as you say it's probably cost prohitivitive for most. (Unless you used aluminum string savers. :)

One thing you might try is copoly mains with Monogut ZX crosses. Monogut is more slippery and softer than any multi. Reports of poly/ZX in conventional patterns have been pretty positive. But, because it's so flexible, it would have to be strung up pretty tight, otherwise it might allow the mains to move too much in a 16x15 pattern. One of the nice things about ZX, though, as a Zyex string, is that its stiffness does not significantly increase as you increase tension, so it should still be soft and powerful at higher tensions. Higher tensions would also be beneficial for the copoly mains, as the rebound angle should be a little lower than normal with these patterns, so you might get more of driving spin than a fluffy spin. If you were to try it, I would definitely follow travlerajm's extreme pre-stretch protocol for ZX to more or less eliminate tension loss. Hope that makes sense.
 

asifallasleep

Hall of Fame
RipSpin 15g felt like a board or really cheap stiff non elastic poly to me. Hated it. May try the 16 or 17g now. Wondering if perhaps it's just a stiff string and the gauge won't matter. The ball just flies off the frame with more power, feel and touch when using the 16g cyclone.
 

ed70

Professional
RipSpin 15g felt like a board or really cheap stiff non elastic poly to me. Hated it. May try the 16 or 17g now. Wondering if perhaps it's just a stiff string and the gauge won't matter. The ball just flies off the frame with more power, feel and touch when using the 16g cyclone.

i'm using 16g ripspin in a six one 95s, have to say i've used a lot of the well known poly strings over recent years & the Ripspin is up there, i'ts a good allrounder & had over 20 hours of play & showing no signs of wear, had it strung at 57 & it's maybe lost a bit of tension what i'd allowed for & plays perfect now. I hit pretty hard & some heavy topspin shots off both sides. Sounds to me like some of you guys are going through strings like a knife through butter with the prostaff 95s frame, Ripspin well worth a try as it's pretty cheap too.
 
Top