The Official Lead Tape Placement+Racket Customization Thread

mrmo1115

Hall of Fame
you could alternatively put the weight at the bottom of the throat.
If none of the setups works, then add lead to 3/9 until you have the wanted stability and just concentrate on early preparation and good form. Heavy racquets get the best technique out of us, as they require it in order to be used correctly. You will need some time to get used to the racquets specs, but once you manage the transition you'll feel more comfortable with heavier racquets.

Do you think that 4/8 is a place I should at least try? My logic is that the SW won't be affected as much and I can still try to get a similar level of stability even if the lead is being placed a little lower. I'm starting off with 4 total grams, but I'll decrease it to 3 if it still is a bit sluggish.
I am not too sure about adding weight at the throat because I believe that will only increase the mass, but not the stability at all.
As for adjusting to the 3/9 lead, I know for a fact that I wouldn't be able to get used to it because I played 2 hours with it and I was able to tell that it wasn't the perfect set up for me. The stiffness of my frame is further accentuated with the lead at 3/9 which isn't something I'm too fond of.
 

Shroud

G.O.A.T.
Do you think that 4/8 is a place I should at least try? My logic is that the SW won't be affected as much and I can still try to get a similar level of stability even if the lead is being placed a little lower. I'm starting off with 4 total grams, but I'll decrease it to 3 if it still is a bit sluggish.
I am not too sure about adding weight at the throat because I believe that will only increase the mass, but not the stability at all.
As for adjusting to the 3/9 lead, I know for a fact that I wouldn't be able to get used to it because I played 2 hours with it and I was able to tell that it wasn't the perfect set up for me. The stiffness of my frame is further accentuated with the lead at 3/9 which isn't something I'm too fond of.

My 2 cents is that no one does 4/8 that I am aware of. I would rather see you take Spin to Win and Corbind's excellent advice about counterbalancing.

If you have tried that then disregard, but I dont think I saw you saying it was tried.

Example, I once did a painting project and the racket ended up way heavier than I had planned. It was dreadfully sluggish. But adding enough weight (25g) to the handle made it playable.

Also if you are adding weight it will throw off the swing mechanics unless you add a similar amount to counterbalance. So before 4/8 just put some on the handle and see.

Or if you have tried it counterbalancing then just reduce the weight at 3/9.

Did I mention putty? :)
 

mrmo1115

Hall of Fame
My 2 cents is that no one does 4/8 that I am aware of. I would rather see you take Spin to Win and Corbind's excellent advice about counterbalancing.

If you have tried that then disregard, but I dont think I saw you saying it was tried.

Example, I once did a painting project and the racket ended up way heavier than I had planned. It was dreadfully sluggish. But adding enough weight (25g) to the handle made it playable.

Also if you are adding weight it will throw off the swing mechanics unless you add a similar amount to counterbalance. So before 4/8 just put some on the handle and see.

Or if you have tried it counterbalancing then just reduce the weight at 3/9.

Did I mention putty? :)

Even if I counterbalance wouldn't the SW remain the same? Where would I put it? Could I pop open the butt cap and place lead strips in there? The thing is that I felt that 1 gram was a tad too little, but 1.5 grams was too sluggish. What should I do at 3/9 next?
 

Shroud

G.O.A.T.
Even if I counterbalance wouldn't the SW remain the same? Where would I put it? Could I pop open the butt cap and place lead strips in there? The thing is that I felt that 1 gram was a tad too little, but 1.5 grams was too sluggish. What should I do at 3/9 next?

IIRC if you counterbalance the SW will go up a tiny bit. But the racket balance will change, and IME that will make it feel less sluggish. So stay with 1.5 but add 1.5 to the butt cap and see. I am betting that its the cat's meow.

How to add? go buy some putty.

Something like this is crucial to figuring all this stuff out:

http://www.officedepot.com/a/produc...ssionid=0000ry4IUoxX5YDEsp_h9EosQmo:17h4h7c4g

Then once you have tried all the combos then just put lead tape there.

Put the putty on the buttcap It will stay long enough to test. If it comes off no biggy, just put it back on.

Let me say this another way. You are only looking at 4/8 because right now 1.5g is too sluggish at 3/9. I am saying that if you add a similar amount of weight to the butt cap to counterbalance well it will make that 1.5g seem easier to handle.

3/9 is the ideal spot so why not try to get it to work there before moving on to a less attractive spot.
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
Do you think that 4/8 is a place I should at least try? My logic is that the SW won't be affected as much and I can still try to get a similar level of stability even if the lead is being placed a little lower. I'm starting off with 4 total grams, but I'll decrease it to 3 if it still is a bit sluggish.
I am not too sure about adding weight at the throat because I believe that will only increase the mass, but not the stability at all.
As for adjusting to the 3/9 lead, I know for a fact that I wouldn't be able to get used to it because I played 2 hours with it and I was able to tell that it wasn't the perfect set up for me. The stiffness of my frame is further accentuated with the lead at 3/9 which isn't something I'm too fond of.

Unfortunately, you will not get the same level of stability with lead at 4/8 as with 3/9. Also, lead at 4/8 can, depending on your racquet, shift the sweetspot downwards, which is something you probably want even less. There is a reason why people say 3/9 for stability.

Swingweight is a deceptive value. It does not necessarily represent the ease of swinging a racquet. If you have two racquets with the same SW, but with noticeably different balance, the racquet with the more HL Balance (ceteris paribus) will be more maneuverable.

I for instance have my racquets at a 355 SW, but thanks to counterbalancing, my racquets don't feel clunky (for me).
 

mrtrinh

Professional
Need some advice... currently have a strike 16x19 with 2 grams total at 3&9 with no overgrip but I currently like the SW right now. I want to increase stability and plow. I'm thinking about adding 1 more gram at 3&9 but since i want to maintain the current SW, do i need to counterbalance the racket with lead in the buttcap (if so how much?) or can I get away with just adding a wilson pro overgrip which currently weighs 5 grams?
 

mrmo1115

Hall of Fame
Spintowin, I'm going to stick with 3/9. I found that 2.5 grams total, 1.25 grams at 3 and then another 1.25 at 9 to be the right amount.
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
Need some advice... currently have a strike 16x19 with 2 grams total at 3&9 with no overgrip but I currently like the SW right now. I want to increase stability and plow. I'm thinking about adding 1 more gram at 3&9 but since i want to maintain the current SW, do i need to counterbalance the racket with lead in the buttcap (if so how much?) or can I get away with just adding a wilson pro overgrip which currently weighs 5 grams?

You can get away with it by adding an overgrip IMO.
 

meltedsteam

Semi-Pro
Spintowin, I'm going to stick with 3/9. I found that 2.5 grams total, 1.25 grams at 3 and then another 1.25 at 9 to be the right amount.

I think you should cut your 3" strips in half horizontally and leave a 1" gap at 3 and 9. It will swing lighter and cover the 4" area. So, you will have eight 1.5" strips. 4 on each side.
 

mrmo1115

Hall of Fame
Does anyone know if this is the proper way to find the 3/9 positions on a 20 cross frame like my gsp? I counted 10 crosses down from the top and 10 crosses up from the bottom. In between the 2 "10th cross strings" I found the middle point and used that as the middle point for my strips of lead.
Can anyone confirm that I did it correctly and that I am indeed placing it in the 3/9 position?
Does anyone also know what 3/9's length on a standard 27 inch racquet? I measured and have something in between 20.5 and 21 but can't figure out the exact number. I'm trying to use the number so I can use TW's reverse engineering calculator.
Thanks to anyone who can assist
 

Fuji

Legend
Does anyone know if this is the proper way to find the 3/9 positions on a 20 cross frame like my gsp? I counted 10 crosses down from the top and 10 crosses up from the bottom. In between the 2 "10th cross strings" I found the middle point and used that as the middle point for my strips of lead.
Can anyone confirm that I did it correctly and that I am indeed placing it in the 3/9 position?
Does anyone also know what 3/9's length on a standard 27 inch racquet? I measured and have something in between 20.5 and 21 but can't figure out the exact number. I'm trying to use the number so I can use TW's reverse engineering calculator.
Thanks to anyone who can assist

What I do is actually measure the face of the racket with a cloth tape measure, and go to half way. Usually it floats around that 10 cross area, but if you want to be exact that's the best way to go IMO.

-Fuji
 

lima

Semi-Pro
Guys, I need your advice.

I currently play with Yonex Vcore Tour 97 310g in stock form. I really like it this way (well maybe a little plowthrough wouldn't harm). The basic grip has worn out so I have put Yonex Super Grap which is 5 grams, and now I hate the racquet. It has lost stability and power. So i have put 2 grams at 10 and 2 grams at 2. I've used 4x4" stripes which are 1 gram each. I still haven't play with my new setup so I don't know if it will work. All I wanted to do is to keep the same balace as before I have put overgrip. Did I do good? Anyways, I have put at 10 and 2 because I tend to hit little higher.

My racquet is currently 340g weight (yonex vcore tour 97 310g, poly tour pro 125, yonex vibrastop, yonex super grap overgrip, 2 grams of lead at 10 and 2 at 2).

One more thing. Is it better to put 2x2" stripes or 1x4"?
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
Guys, I need your advice.

I currently play with Yonex Vcore Tour 97 310g in stock form. I really like it this way (well maybe a little plowthrough wouldn't harm). The basic grip has worn out so I have put Yonex Super Grap which is 5 grams, and now I hate the racquet. It has lost stability and power. So i have put 2 grams at 10 and 2 grams at 2. I've used 4x4" stripes which are 1 gram each. I still haven't play with my new setup so I don't know if it will work. All I wanted to do is to keep the same balace as before I have put overgrip. Did I do good? Anyways, I have put at 10 and 2 because I tend to hit little higher.

My racquet is currently 340g weight (yonex vcore tour 97 310g, poly tour pro 125, yonex vibrastop, yonex super grap overgrip, 2 grams of lead at 10 and 2 at 2).

One more thing. Is it better to put 2x2" stripes or 1x4"?

All you are asking is highly subjective…
Give it a hit and come back to us if you don't like it, then tell us what you didn't like and we can help you based on that. ;)
 

mrmo1115

Hall of Fame
Can anyone comment on whether or not 2-2.5 grams at 3/9 will be noticeable? I am trying to open up the sweet spot a bit and help get some pace with some off center balls.
 

rene.55555

New User
to xFullCourtTenniSx: I want to depolarize my racquet for first time. What is the difference in starting weight and balance when I start with:
A - Unstrung racquet = only frame and grip
B - Strung racquet = frame, grip and string
C - Racquet with overgrip = frame, grip, overgrip and string
D - Racquet with dampener = frame, grip, overgrip, string and dampener

What is ideal to start with it? When I first add lead and after I add string or overgrip, it doesnt make difference (in balance point) like before adding lead, because there is a higher weight. Thank You
 
Can anyone comment on whether or not 2-2.5 grams at 3/9 will be noticeable? I am trying to open up the sweet spot a bit and help get some pace with some off center balls.

You mean 2-2.5 in total or 2-2.5 at each side? Either way it will be noticeable but with 2-2.5 at each side will be a lot better providing that you are comfortable with the weight and balance
 

SublimeTennis

Professional
IV) Common Solutions to Specific Problems (A.K.A. the F.A.Q.)

A) I want to improve maneuverability on my racket (and nothing else).
---1) You can add lead to the handle to create a more headlight balance or
---2) You can add lead in the buttcap to create a more headlight balance or
---3) You can replace your synthetic grip with a stretched leather grip (stretched only enough to make it a little thinner, don't decrease the width too much), and place a Wilson Pro Overgrip (or the Yonex equivalent) over it to prevent blisters. This adds about 16 grams if I'm not mistaken... Adds at least 10 for sure. From there, you can add more weight as necessary.

B) I have/had problems with injury. What can I do to help make my racket better for my arm?
---1) Add lead at 3&9 to improve stability (to decrease twisting in your hand, which causes injury) then counterbalance it to make it very headlight. You can follow the suggestions posted above to make the racket more headlight. I suggest weight at 7 inches above the buttcap for counterbalancing, but you can combine that with the leather grip replacement suggestion as well.
---2) You want to make the racket a solid weight so that the weight will absorb most of the vibrations.
---3) You want to make sure your grip size is perfectly suited to you. If it's too small, then the racket will twist in your hand, requiring a tighter grip to control the racket face. So perhaps try adding an overgrip or two on top of whatever you are using. Also, there is such a thing as too big a grip as well. The good thing about some of the thinner overgrips is that they only change the grip size by half a size, giving you the opportunity to more accurately control your grip size.
---4) You want to make sure the racket isn't too stiff for you.
---5) Most importantly, go to a good coach and check if there isn't some massively major flaw in your technique that could lead to injury.

C) I'm an all court player. Which setup should I use?
---1) What's your strength? You should probably decide based on that. For me, it's my forehand and serve. The polarized setup benefits my forehand the most because I use a lot of spin off my forehand. And if I add some lead at 3&9 to that, I can still volley well. It adds some power to my serve (not as much as a depolarized setup), but it adds a lot of spin to my kick serve, my best serve. So overall, playing the way I currently do, I play slightly better with a polarized racket because I don't serve and volley all the time anymore.

D) I want to improve my consistency. Which setup should I use?
---1) Depends on how you play. If you use heavy spin, go with the polarized setup because if you get it right, your balls won't go long except if you shank it or your form was way off. You can also use added margin over the net because you hit with more spin. If you don't use heavy spin, go with the depolarized setup. The added power will allow you to use less on your strokes and still keep your opponent back. Because of that, you can focus more on stroke production and controlling the ball, which the depolarized racket will assist in.

E) Should I start off right away with a SW2 racket?
---1) No! Haha. You should start off with a racket in the SW1 range. SW2 rackets are great and all (especially for polarized racket), but you require a full stroke to use it and they will tire you out more than other rackets because more force is required to accelerate the racket. If you feel that you are fit enough (or advanced enough) to use it, then by all means go for it. But your average club player shouldn't mess with it prematurely.

F) I want more power. What do I do?
---1) The obvious solution is lead at 12. However, if you don't like the feeling of the sweetspot being dragged up, then try lead at 3&9 instead. Counterbalancing is optional. But counterbalancing the lead at 12 should bring the sweetspot back down.

G) I want the benefits of both. Can't I just combine the two setups?
1) God no! Haha. I've thought the same thing myself once and tried it. It doesn't work out too great. It's better to optimize performance towards one direction, then add a little extra lead as needed to tailor the racket perfectly to you. Like I said, polarized racket with a little lead at 3&9 for stability. You can do the reverse as well (depolarized racket with a little lead at 12 for added power). Pick one setup you feel is most comfortable to you then add lead to where ever you feel is necessary. That's the closest you can really get to combining both.

Final note: Once you create your perfect racket, write down the specs, not the placement locations! The reason for this is to match rackets. The general placement locations will be similar, but you want to match the specs (swingweight, static weight, balance). The specific amount required at each position will vary (hopefully only slightly) and the counterbalance location will also vary in addition to how much is needed. The problem is that unless you have a Babolat RDC machine, you can't do this perfectly. In that scenario, just get a balance board and a digital scale and match the balance and mass to your ideal racket (the location(s) on the head should be the same). You can't match what you can't measure, so just make do with what you can. :(

Any questions? Did I miss anything?

Can't believe I just found this, I just posted a new thread asking for help, here it is;

I play head light, heavy racquets.

I've played PS85, then PS90, have been with 6.1 95 for sometime, but want to move a bit up as I've maxed out power on the 95.

So I hit a Blade 98, however even though it has a lighter head, it feels heavier than the other three because of the balance. So my aim is to turn my 98 into the 85, 90, 95 feel.

I can do this by adding weight in the handle, however I don't know how to calculate how much weight to achieve my goal. If you are going to calculate, you know the 85, 90 and 95 are unstrung 12 points HL, they are also 12oz or 11.9 for the 95, very close.

The Blade 98 is 10.7 Oz, but only 4 points HL. So it doesn't matter if I go over 12oz unstrung, I am looking for 12 points HL, how much lead, how many grams do I need to add in the handle????

Thanks by the way!
 

Fuji

Legend
Can't believe I just found this, I just posted a new thread asking for help, here it is;

I play head light, heavy racquets.

I've played PS85, then PS90, have been with 6.1 95 for sometime, but want to move a bit up as I've maxed out power on the 95.

So I hit a Blade 98, however even though it has a lighter head, it feels heavier than the other three because of the balance. So my aim is to turn my 98 into the 85, 90, 95 feel.

I can do this by adding weight in the handle, however I don't know how to calculate how much weight to achieve my goal. If you are going to calculate, you know the 85, 90 and 95 are unstrung 12 points HL, they are also 12oz or 11.9 for the 95, very close.

The Blade 98 is 10.7 Oz, but only 4 points HL. So it doesn't matter if I go over 12oz unstrung, I am looking for 12 points HL, how much lead, how many grams do I need to add in the handle????

Thanks by the way!

Just using your rough numbers and the TW university calculator:

1.60oz @ 5.1 inches up the handle

OR

1.2oz @ 1.2 inches up the handle (so basically buttcap) and 0.32oz @ 22.8 inches. So divide that up between 3 and 9.

The first set up according to the TW calc does not increase your SW by anything, while the second increases your SW by 23 points.

jOP4hHil.png


-Fuji
 

mrmo1115

Hall of Fame
Can anyone comment on whether or not 3 grams -> 2.5 grams TOTAL at 3/9 will garner any difference in feel? I am trying to maintain a good level of stability and plow even though I want to reduce the SW by a tad. I know I cannot get the best of both worlds and its a compromise but I am wondering if reducing .5 grams will help at all.
 

carguy01123

New User
What should I do with my racquet?

Previously, I had a 2012 AeroPro Drive. I put 6 inches of lead tape (a layer of 4 and then 2 on top of that) on either side of the racquet and strings at 3 and 9 (meaning I had 24 inches in total). I strung with Solinco TourBite Soft at 48. It was a solution to get me to stop swiping up on the ball and force me to go more through the ball so I'd be more consistent. This felt pretty good.
But, because that racquet's grip size was too big, I got the newer 2013 AeroPro Drive. I know the specs are different, so I don't know what to do to get the same results. I tried the usual 6 inches at 3 and 9 (24 in total), but I felt that that was too heavy and I could sort of feel the racquet trying to fly from my hands. So, I took of the 2 inches that I put on top, and put 4 inches at 12 (so I had 8 inches at 3, 8 inches at 9, and 4 inches at 12). This felt I little better (I think) but I still am not convinced.
My doubts are what I should do with my racquet. Should I increase the tension to 51? Where should I put the tape so that I get the best setup. Thanks!
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
Previously, I had a 2012 AeroPro Drive. I put 6 inches of lead tape (a layer of 4 and then 2 on top of that) on either side of the racquet and strings at 3 and 9 (meaning I had 24 inches in total). I strung with Solinco TourBite Soft at 48. It was a solution to get me to stop swiping up on the ball and force me to go more through the ball so I'd be more consistent. This felt pretty good.
But, because that racquet's grip size was too big, I got the newer 2013 AeroPro Drive. I know the specs are different, so I don't know what to do to get the same results. I tried the usual 6 inches at 3 and 9 (24 in total), but I felt that that was too heavy and I could sort of feel the racquet trying to fly from my hands. So, I took of the 2 inches that I put on top, and put 4 inches at 12 (so I had 8 inches at 3, 8 inches at 9, and 4 inches at 12). This felt I little better (I think) but I still am not convinced.
My doubts are what I should do with my racquet. Should I increase the tension to 51? Where should I put the tape so that I get the best setup. Thanks!

I don't think we can answer that question for you… You will need to experiment with your lead placement and string tension, one factor at a time.

I needed half a year to find a setup that I have absolute confidence in.
 

TheM@trix

New User
Previously, I had a 2012 AeroPro Drive. I put 6 inches of lead tape (a layer of 4 and then 2 on top of that) on either side of the racquet and strings at 3 and 9 (meaning I had 24 inches in total). I strung with Solinco TourBite Soft at 48. It was a solution to get me to stop swiping up on the ball and force me to go more through the ball so I'd be more consistent. This felt pretty good.
But, because that racquet's grip size was too big, I got the newer 2013 AeroPro Drive. I know the specs are different, so I don't know what to do to get the same results. I tried the usual 6 inches at 3 and 9 (24 in total), but I felt that that was too heavy and I could sort of feel the racquet trying to fly from my hands. So, I took of the 2 inches that I put on top, and put 4 inches at 12 (so I had 8 inches at 3, 8 inches at 9, and 4 inches at 12). This felt I little better (I think) but I still am not convinced.
My doubts are what I should do with my racquet. Should I increase the tension to 51? Where should I put the tape so that I get the best setup. Thanks!

Have you tried these:
http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/customization.php
http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/customizationReverse.php
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Just using your rough numbers and the TW university calculator:

1.60oz @ 5.1 inches up the handle

OR

1.2oz @ 1.2 inches up the handle (so basically buttcap) and 0.32oz @ 22.8 inches. So divide that up between 3 and 9.

The first set up according to the TW calc does not increase your SW by anything, while the second increases your SW by 23 points.

-Fuji

SW is a measurement of the force needed to rotate a racket around a 10 cm axis point. In tennis the force is applied to the bottom 10 cm of the racket. When you apply 1.2 oz below the 10 cm point you are applying a force so the change in SW is minimal as it counter-balances the same amount of weight at the same distance above the axis point. But when you apply 0.32 oz (9 g or .009 Kg) at 22.8 in (48 cm above the axis point) you must physically apply a counter-balance below the 10 cm axis.

SW = m * d * d, or SW = .009 * 48 * 48 = 21 Kgcm^2

The differences between actual and what you get from the TW calculator could be because of error in your rough measurements of the weight, 10 timing periods, or conversions.

EDIT: if you compute the SW for the bottom weight of 1.2 oz (.034 Kg) 1.2 in from butt (7 cm from axis)

SW = m * d * d, or SW = .034 * 7 * 7 = 2 Kgcm^2

That's what they say you should get, because SW is the sum of all point mass around the axis.
 
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vicky1377

New User
Can someone please share pics of added lead tape to the handle/grip? I don't like to put weights inside the buttcap. Don't ask me why:). I'm trying to customize my pro staff 95 to be as close to pro staff 90 as possible. Any help is highly appreciated with the setup :)
 

TennisCJC

Legend
Can someone please share pics of added lead tape to the handle/grip? I don't like to put weights inside the buttcap. Don't ask me why:). I'm trying to customize my pro staff 95 to be as close to pro staff 90 as possible. Any help is highly appreciated with the setup :)

I will describe it but pictures would challenge my tech skills.

Step 1: take off all grips carefully. You can sometimes reuse the replacement grip if you remove it carefully so the backing does peel off.
Step 2: clean the handle pallet - sometimes bits of the grip will stick to the pallet. I peel them off - I use my finger nails, a grommet, or I imagine you could use a dull knife.
Step 3: Apply the lead tape to the pallet.
Step 4: regrip the racket.

The easiest way to add the lead tape is to wrap it around the pallet. I usually start just above where the butt cap ends and wrap it around the pallet so the edge of the lead tape touches the top of the butt cap. The pallet is probably around 4" around so I cut the strips just a little longer and wrap them around the pallet and trim the excess with scissors so it does not overlap. I apply the strips 1 next to the other starting at the bottom if I want to add several grams. So, a 4" strip of tape if roughly a gram. If you want to add 4 grams then I would have 4 strips with each one abutting the previous one.

I add strips low on the pallet near the butt cap to shift balance the most toward HL with the least amount of weight. I also add some centered around 7" from the butt cap to offset weight added at 3/9 o'clock.

That's how to do it. Where to locate the tape would take a thesis to explain but there is a lot of information in this and other threads.
 

TennisCJC

Legend
One other thought. If you are not sure about the location and want to experiment. And, you use an overgrip. You could apply the lead tape on the replacement grip in the trial locations, and then put the overgrip on to cover the lead tape. Then hit with the racket to see how it works. this might not be exact as the strips around the replacement grip will be a bit longer than just around the pallet but it should give you a feel for how the racket will play with lead at that location.

You can use the TWU manual customization tool to see how the lead tape effects balance too.
 

vicky1377

New User
Thank you TennisCJC. Appreciate the nice reply and quickly:). Question? I see some people add lead tape strips on bevels 5-7 inches from the buttcap. Would that ok too to do? I don't want to worry about grip size being increased which I know lead tape is so thin it will be negligible. For about 8-9 months I have been only using weight at 3 and 9 o'clock and didn't realize that I should have added some to the handle for counter weight. I'm switching from 90 inch wilson frames to Pro staff 95. PS95 is about 7 points HL as opposed to 9 points HL 90 inch (I'm sure these are unstrung specs). I would like to make my 95 about 9-10 points HL and add only little bit to 3 and 9 o'clock. And swing weight may be little bit more than 315-320 (currently it is 307 I think). I tried inputting numbers on TW customization tool, it always gives partial results
 

Haztrick

New User
Hi guys,

I hit with a lot of top spin and hit one handed backhands with a lot of spin as well, but am looking at using lead tape on my Wilson BLX Steam 100.

It's a fairly headlight racquet, but I'm just curious as to where I should place the lead tape on this racquet to give me a bigger sweet spot/more power.
 

dnj30

Semi-Pro
Need advice. I am trying to match my 2 sticks. One is 7g lighter than the other. The other specs are pretty much equal. So I want to know where the best places are to place lead in order to increase the static weight without changing the other specs. I will use a balance board while I add lead so as not to change that. I just don't know where exactly are the best spots to add the lead. 3&9 and in the butt cap?
Suggestions appreciated. Dave.
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
Need advice. I am trying to match my 2 sticks. One is 7g lighter than the other. The other specs are pretty much equal. So I want to know where the best places are to place lead in order to increase the static weight without changing the other specs. I will use a balance board while I add lead so as not to change that. I just don't know where exactly are the best spots to add the lead. 3&9 and in the butt cap?
Suggestions appreciated. Dave.

Depends on the swingweight really, but the easiest method would be to add 7g of lead in the throat, centered close to the balance point.
 

dnj30

Semi-Pro
Depends on the swingweight really, but the easiest method would be to add 7g of lead in the throat, centered close to the balance point.

Wouldn't that raise the sw pretty significantly? I guess sw is going to increase no matter what i do, unless i put all 7gs in the butt cap. right?
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
Wouldn't that raise the sw pretty significantly? I guess sw is going to increase no matter what i do, unless i put all 7gs in the butt cap. right?

less than anything else when maintaining the same balance really. 7g in the throat will raise the swingweight by something like 5 points (don't nail me on that number, I'm not sure what the relation was when adding lead in the throat), which is not much. Trial and error is all I can recommend… And downloading the app RacquetTune which has a really helpful and easy to use customization tool (along with a tension measurement tool).
 

dnj30

Semi-Pro
less than anything else when maintaining the same balance really. 7g in the throat will raise the swingweight by something like 5 points (don't nail me on that number, I'm not sure what the relation was when adding lead in the throat), which is not much. Trial and error is all I can recommend… And downloading the app RacquetTune which has a really helpful and easy to use customization tool (along with a tension measurement tool).

Thanks for the input. I checked TW university and they said same as you. Weight at 6 or in the throat. Counter balance in handle if needed. I'll mess around a little, see how it feels. Thanks again.
 

dnj30

Semi-Pro
less than anything else when maintaining the same balance really. 7g in the throat will raise the swingweight by something like 5 points (don't nail me on that number, I'm not sure what the relation was when adding lead in the throat), which is not much. Trial and error is all I can recommend… And downloading the app RacquetTune which has a really helpful and easy to use customization tool (along with a tension measurement tool).

FYI- TW custom calculator has me adding 8g in the throat(10.6 in from butt). Says sw will only increase by 2. Balance should remain unchanged.
 

Ziev

New User
Playing with the Graphene speed pro, but it seems to be twisty. Especially at volleys. Love the racket on my one handed bh, but on forehand it feels like balls are landing short. Can be my technique or do I need to give the ball more racket speed? Coming from a Extreme Pro 2.0

If I will add a little weight to the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, do I need to counter it somewhere? Very noticeable in terms of sweetspot if I put 2 or 3 grams of lead@3 and 2 or 3 grams of lead @9?

Someone got some tips for me?
 

Fuji

Legend
Playing with the Graphene speed pro, but it seems to be twisty. Especially at volleys. Love the racket on my one handed bh, but on forehand it feels like balls are landing short. Can be my technique or do I need to give the ball more racket speed? Coming from a Extreme Pro 2.0

If I will add a little weight to the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, do I need to counter it somewhere? Very noticeable in terms of sweetspot if I put 2 or 3 grams of lead@3 and 2 or 3 grams of lead @9?

Someone got some tips for me?

I would start by not counterbalancing. A slightly more HH balance and some lead at 3/9 will shore up the stability issues.

Regarding the short balls. Combo of non-ideal technique and 18x20. Could be easily fixed by lowering string tension a couple lbs to see if you like it.

-Fuji
 

Ziev

New User
I would start by not counterbalancing. A slightly more HH balance and some lead at 3/9 will shore up the stability issues.

Regarding the short balls. Combo of non-ideal technique and 18x20. Could be easily fixed by lowering string tension a couple lbs to see if you like it.

-Fuji

And 2 or 3 grams a side? 2 or 3 not seems to be that much? Will it be noticeble?
 

coolschreiber

Hall of Fame
I'm in the same dilemma I just want to give my IG MP just a tad more stability from twisting. Currently I have 5 gms on 12, leather grip + overgrip.
I'm thinking of re-distributing the weight a little to 3 & 9 as well. Now I tried this way back on my Mid (not MP mind you) and added a total of 6 gms at 3 & 9. Didn't like it, so I want to add just a minimal at 3 & 9.

Thinking of adding 2 gms each at 3 and 9, so total of 4 gms on 3 & 9. And leave 3 gms at 12. I'm hoping 4 gms at 3 & 9 won't be negligible.
What do you guys think?
 

movdqa

Talk Tennis Guru
You should use the TW calculator to keep the SW the same. My guess is that you could go a little higher at 3/9 to get the same SW.

My impression on the IG Prestige MP is that it's a lot better at not twisting compared to the YT Prestige MP. I don't have any lead at 3/9 on it - my lead runs from 10 to 2.
 

coolschreiber

Hall of Fame
You should use the TW calculator to keep the SW the same. My guess is that you could go a little higher at 3/9 to get the same SW.

My impression on the IG Prestige MP is that it's a lot better at not twisting compared to the YT Prestige MP. I don't have any lead at 3/9 on it - my lead runs from 10 to 2.

Thanks Mov, I'm not that hardcore into matching exact values, and don't weigh up my rackets too much. I see yours are behemoths :) . Approximates usually work for me, I just add a little here n there and just go with it.
Under most circumstances my MP holds up really well to any hard shots. But played against the wind a couple of times and felt my ball was landing a little short and the racket was twisting a little. I just want to compensate a bit for that. My idea is to add just a minimal weight at 3 & 9. So I'm wondering if about 4 gms total at 3 & 9 would be ample.
 

movdqa

Talk Tennis Guru
I went through a period of several months adding weight and it was add a little, play with it for a week or two to see how I liked it. Lead tape is easy to add and remove so no harm in trying something different out.
 

croplayer22

New User
hy guys

I am using youtek ig prestige pro, currently in stock form

I like the racquet, but sometimes I have problems in 2 things

1. while defending, balls are just getting to short
2. I need more power sometimes on 1st serve or when attacking the ball, it can get hard to hit a winner from baseline

any suggestions on leading the racquet? also, what string would you recomend for this racquet?
 

TennisManiac

Hall of Fame
hy guys

I am using youtek ig prestige pro, currently in stock form

I like the racquet, but sometimes I have problems in 2 things

1. while defending, balls are just getting to short
2. I need more power sometimes on 1st serve or when attacking the ball, it can get hard to hit a winner from baseline

any suggestions on leading the racquet? also, what string would you recomend for this racquet?

4 grams at 12 (2 grams each side) and an overgrip should help. That's how I set mine up when I played with the IG PP. Full bed of Alu Power at 48 was really nice in this frame. Signum Pro Tornado and BHB7 was also nice but didn't last very long.
 
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