Klippermate

ank

New User
Hi all,

I am interested in purchasing a racquet stringer because I have been snapping strings more often and was looking at the Klippermate which is about $300 shipped to Australia for me. It will last me 'forever' and I would be able to cover the $300 in a year or less.

The thing is I am new to this stringing 'business' and was wandering if you stringers could give me an insight on first time stringers and also how to choose a racquet stringer.

If someone could provide me with specs of racquet stringers that you could choose from and what to avoid and if there is anything bad about the Klippermate.

Also would I need to buy any extra tools and accessories for my Klippermate?

Would I need to buy extra grommet sets for my racquet to practice stringing with?

Thanks!
 

max

Legend
I really love my Kmate and wish I'd bought it ten years earlier. GREAT floating clamps, GREAT customer service; it comes with all you need.

The classic knock against Kmate is that it doesn't have a ritzy string clamp, one that ratchets. But this doesn't much matter, especially if you string your own frame, since you get the knack, after maybe 4 jobs, of how much string to put it. It's damn durable, heavy and made to last. The perfect tool, IMHO.
 

Steve Huff

G.O.A.T.
Not a knock against Klippermate, but at $300, surely there are machine manufacturers that sell in Australia where you could get more for less. I could be wrong, but in the US, we still get machines made in China. I'd think you could get the same machines we do from an import company there.
 

ank

New User
Cheapest available stringer shipped is actually the Klippermate one. There is no cheaper available here in Australia. All tennis related products are overpriced here.
 

aussie

Professional
I live in Brisbane and bought a Klippermate some years ago. It was literally shipped (by ship!!) and took 10 weeks to get to me. My only regret was that I didn't buy a stringing machine years earlier.

You'll find the K'mate fine for accurate, replicable string jobs for you and your friends. With practice, you'll string most sticks at around 45 minutes and of course you get to experiment with tons of different strings, gauges, tensions, hybrids etc. You'll be able to order all types of string from TW at a fraction of the cost you can buy them for in Australia even factoring in the shipping cost.

Klipper offer superb after sales service and support, and emails are responded to without delay if you have any queries. I have had the need to replace a couple of parts under the lifetime warranty, and klipper have shipped out the parts to me without question. They pay for the shipping costs of replacement parts supplied under warranty to Australia as well.

In case you may be wondering (I did), you do not pay any customs charges, duty or GST on any goods you import (up to AUD$900 per annum). So the amount that appears on your credit card is all you'll pay. I don't like to give out non-tennis advice on this forum, but if you want a credit card that doesn't have any international transaction fees (save about 3 % of the purchase price), look at the 28 Degrees Mastercard.

Best of luck - aussie.
 

drgchen

Rookie
Answering the last part of your question:

The klippermate appears to include the tools necessary for stringing. A starting clamp can be useful as an additional tool. I wouldn't buy extra grommets unless your racquet needs grommets- I doubt you will damage them. I don't have a machine from them but I purchased a clamp- they mailed it out the next day.
 

max

Legend
I have a Kmate. A starting clamp is irrelevant for the Kmate: it comes with a starting pin. It's got all the tools you need, and one (an awl) you probably won't use. Just fyi.
 

dannymck

New User
Just received my Klippermate 2 weeks ago. I have strung 5 racquets so far and needed nothing to else (except strings) to string my racquets. Get the Klippermate. Most popular, most durable, easy to use.
 
i bought a kmate about 2 months ago. i was breaking 2 strings a week. paying about 10 bux for string 15 for service and the cost was kiling me. now i string myself, takes about 45 mins. bought a reel and it comes to around 4 bux a set. also i was able to test many different strings and finaly found my setup. kmate came with everything i needed. stringing is actually kind of fun now. it makes you understand your equipment much more.
 

ank

New User
So I have the following racquets:

- Yonex RQiS 1 Tour
- Tecnifibre T-Fight 320 VO2 Max
- Tecnifibre T-Fight 295 VO2 Max
- Prince EXO3 Rebel 95
- Head YouTek Speed MP 18X20
- Head YouTek Radical MP
- Wilson AK90
- Wilson ABLX90

Does the Klippermate specify how to string each one because I have heard different racquet or different manufacturers have their own specified way of stringing it...
 

fireball11

New User
So I have the following racquets:

- Yonex RQiS 1 Tour
- Tecnifibre T-Fight 320 VO2 Max
- Tecnifibre T-Fight 295 VO2 Max
- Prince EXO3 Rebel 95
- Head YouTek Speed MP 18X20
- Head YouTek Radical MP
- Wilson AK90
- Wilson ABLX90

Does the Klippermate specify how to string each one because I have heard different racquet or different manufacturers have their own specified way of stringing it...

http://www.klipperusa.com/stringing/manufacturers.php
 

fireball11

New User
I wouldn't have a clue on how to read it, I have never strung a racquet in my life...

Oh- well the klippermate included guide explains what everything means. The link above just has patterns for basically every racket available.

So for example, on your ABLX Tour-

Length of string needed: 18' mains, 16' for crosses.
Skip holes 7 & 9 on the top and bottom of the racket when stringing the mains.
Tie off the mains at hole 6 on the bottom.
Start the crosses at hole 7 on the top.
Tie off the crosses at hole 5 on top (starting knot) and finally hole 11 at the bottom.
 

jim e

Legend
I wouldn't have a clue on how to read it, I have never strung a racquet in my life...

Watch some videos like the one here, as YUlitle explains some of the numbering system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CuV0mEzW-A&fmt=18

Also these videos should help you know more about stringing.
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=172626

The USRSA also has a Digest with patterns and all the information on stringing and racquet service. They compile it all together for you.

You can also visit a local stringer near you, as he/ she may help you get started.
 

dannymck

New User
i bought a kmate about 2 months ago. i was breaking 2 strings a week. paying about 10 bux for string 15 for service and the cost was kiling me. now i string myself, takes about 45 mins. bought a reel and it comes to around 4 bux a set. also i was able to test many different strings and finaly found my setup. kmate came with everything i needed. stringing is actually kind of fun now. it makes you understand your equipment much more.

What string did you settle on?
 

dannymck

New User
So I have the following racquets:

- Yonex RQiS 1 Tour
- Tecnifibre T-Fight 320 VO2 Max
- Tecnifibre T-Fight 295 VO2 Max
- Prince EXO3 Rebel 95
- Head YouTek Speed MP 18X20
- Head YouTek Radical MP
- Wilson AK90
- Wilson ABLX90

Does the Klippermate specify how to string each one because I have heard different racquet or different manufacturers have their own specified way of stringing it...

Yes, once you read the instructions that come with the Klippermate, you will understand how to read the chart. It is really very easy
 

esgee48

G.O.A.T.
I have never seen the machine offered anywhere else except the auction site. So if you need to order one, then Yes, you can order it on their web site. Alphas, Gammas and other high end machines can be found from a lot of other online retailers. But most are shipped from the factory anyway. 3 cents.
 

esgee48

G.O.A.T.
Just received my Klippermate 2 weeks ago. I have strung 5 racquets so far and needed nothing to else (except strings) to string my racquets. Get the Klippermate. Most popular, most durable, easy to use.

i bought a kmate about 2 months ago. i was breaking 2 strings a week. paying about 10 bux for string 15 for service and the cost was kiling me. now i string myself, takes about 45 mins. bought a reel and it comes to around 4 bux a set. also i was able to test many different strings and finaly found my setup. kmate came with everything i needed. stringing is actually kind of fun now. it makes you understand your equipment much more.

And the one thing you must not forget..Clean the clamps and gripper periodically with denatured alcohol..removes string gunk buildup and prevent strings slipping. This applies to all machines from low to high end.
 
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D

Deleted member 23235

Guest
i've had my klippermate table top for 30y+ for ~$100... a friend of mine just bought one.... not much has changed. still going strong.

tennis background...
* started breaking strings in hs because of western grip, heavy topspin fh... dad bought me one because it was costing him too much to string every week
* when actively playing, i need to string weekly, even with kevlar, but there were some 5y gaps where i didn't play
* currently 4.5C

thoughts over the years
* bought the carrying box, which has come in handy, portable.... stringing at tourneys, and generally a place to store away when i stopped playing tennis
* bought the stand so i can stand up while string... without needing a table
* when on a table, i've dented it when the weight drops because i was careless putting it in the clamp
* you will drop the weight,... eventually. (because you're going fast at the string isn't properly clamped in the jaws, which slips out sending the weighted arm crashing down
* the old floating clamps eventually wore out (poor metal used in the screw to tighten/loosen started to deform), bought replacements replacements
* floating clamps are fiddly... getting them dialed to the correct tightness can be annoying
* i have had to start over because the floating clamp slipped... more my fault. i imagine nicer stringing machines protect you from this?
* i've strung on $1000+ machines (crank and electric puller)... they save time because:
a) the floating clamps are where you need them, vs. needing to fish them from the table or shelf when you put them down
b) no need to figure out the right amount of string to put in the jaws to get the weighted balance horizontal... just keep pulling until it's done... but with practice, using the same string (ie. "knowing it's elasticity" you can get the right slack every time)
* you will break the awl pin eventually
* sometimes i wish i had a nice machine, but since it would only really save me 15-20m a stringing, it's not really worth it, unless i'm doing 10-15 racquets a day
* typically string while watching tv...
* typically string in 2 phases... first the mains, then tie off... then come back another time to do the crosses.
* my record was around 22 or 25 min... but it was a ****ty string job :p
 

camohommed

New User
I've had my Klippermate for a few years now. I didn't know if I would like stringing and I was only going to string for myself and my friends.

It has worked great and I have no regrets. I have dropped the weight a couple times because I did not have the string properly in the clamps. Just take your time and it's fine. I also like to string watching the tv or a motivational CD.
 

MathieuR

Hall of Fame
My first machine was a third-hand KM. It was on that machine I learned stringing, and I liked it.
Was happy to exchange it for a ratchet dropweight with fixed clamps, and then even happier to make the step to an "automatic" dropweight, my present Stringway.
 

max

Legend
I visited the Kmate factory to buy mine, a second, for ten bucks less. A decal was askew on it. Yeah, made in the USA.
 

swizzy

Hall of Fame
i bought a gamma x2 from a guy used..he bought it only to find he either couldn't figure it our or wasn't worth the effort.. best $50 i have spent. saved so much money and time over the last 7 years.. great investment for anyone looking to string for a limited number.. like yourself or close friends.
 

esgee48

G.O.A.T.
Off topic: How does one break an awl? Isn't it metal? I could understand breaking a pathfinder awl FWIW.
 

MathieuR

Hall of Fame
How does one break an awl?
Me by misusing it. Trying to remove a butcap-staple, using it as a crowbar. (But this was a cheap pro's pro one).
With a grindingstone I made a new "point" and I use this one to enlarge grommet-holes
 

max

Legend
I've got a number of awls (one I bought from Grey Owl Indian Craft in Jamaica, NY back in the 1970s, which has held up; another from Sears; another is a quite antique awl that I believe was handmade, which was my greatgrandfather's apparently).

At any rate, the Kmate awl is something I don't much use; I don't usually do a multi-hole string job. I does seem flimsey when compared to my Sears brute.
 
D

Deleted member 23235

Guest
Off topic: How does one break an awl? Isn't it metal? I could understand breaking a pathfinder awl FWIW.
i broke my by trying to enlarge a hole... over time, even the awl points are like the tab on an aluminum can.
bend it back and forth enough...
 

struggle

Legend
I've got the grey (Gamma, I believe) awl with the replaceable tips.

I have broken one but i was using it in a non-stringing application.

Decent awl, but i rarely need to use it.
 

eelhc

Hall of Fame
This is perhaps why a lot of us guys like American made tools.

yeah... some of the cheaper tool tips can snap off and put an eye out.

I don't buy the argument that manufacturing is not affordable in the US. Oftentimes manufacturers shift production to China but start making a different and inferior, cost reduced product and pass it off as the same thing. Don't you just love the big box HW store stuff? Better hammer in 10d framing nails the first try because if you try to pull them out, the dead is snapping off. Screws snap when driving them into any pressure treated or harder lumber.
 
D

Deleted member 23235

Guest
This is perhaps why a lot of us guys like American made tools.

lol, i think american tools used to be great... these days i think they engineer in planned obsolescence, taking a page from the automotive industry.
 

eelhc

Hall of Fame
lol, i think american tools used to be great... these days i think they engineer in planned obsolescence, taking a page from the automotive industry.

Craftsman tools back in the day... although not the best, were made in the US and made to live up to their lifetime warranty. My father's set from the mid 70s are completely different tools than the ones they sell now. They've since figured out that they can make it for much cheaper but replace more of them under warranty and still come out ahead.
 
D

Deleted member 23235

Guest
Craftsman tools back in the day... although not the best, were made in the US and made to live up to their lifetime warranty. My father's set from the mid 70s are completely different tools than the ones they sell now. They've since figured out that they can make it for much cheaper but replace more of them under warranty and still come out ahead.

agreed.
i've broken some "beefy" craftsman sockets and box wrenches.
granted i had a cheater bar on them :p
 
D

Deleted member 23235

Guest
Cheater bar and a hammer.... until I got wise and changed to pneumatic tools.

yeah i try to only use sockets rated for impact use (e.g. the black ones), and have a full suite of air tools

but sometimes i need the thinner walled sockets (i.e. silver) due to space constraints
 

max

Legend
I don't have an air compressor. That, along with a table saw, is one of those tools that I'd really like to have. . . at the moment I really need them.
 
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