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On my 2hbh sometimes the ball has this corkscrew type spin(think of a spinning ballerina), it has no topspin and just floats out. I think it is spinning counter clockwise but am not entirely sure. It most often happens when in an open stance, like on serves or wide balls. My suspicion is it's...

The PS95 with a little lead in the handle, 3 and 9 and at 12 drastically improves this racquet for most.

How would increased dwell time equal more control? Wouldn't the extra time mean more chance of the racquet turning or twisting with the ball still on the strings and therefore sacrifice control?

Based on the stiffness of origin it should have more control than gut. Also more power isn't always better. Lastly, how can a string have more power and control. It doesn't make sense. Power and control, if you consider them a measure of how deep the ball goes, are inversely proportional. UNLESS...

What about the spin?

Have any of you tried origin 17 with a slick round poly? On paper it should be an even better combo than gut poly as the origin has around equal tension maintenance and is much slicker than gut (in fullbed). Only issue I can potentially see is that it is a little stiffer than gut.

I'm not saying they should do it during the toss, I'm saying to do it right before the toss by rocking the racquet back and forth a few extra times or maybe even by fake tossing.

Watch this video here: If players can do something like this on their serve by rocking the racquet back and forth a few times or winding up really slow or fast. I think this would totally throw off Federer as he doesn't know when to start his run forward. I don't think there's any...

Wilson Revolve 17 black at 45 pounds or Pacific Classic 16 and Revolve at 58/50? Is the extra price of gut/poly worth it?

I actually do think it makes a difference at least on the cheap pre strung racquets. On these rackets if you you pull a stenciled main string to the side there is a huge increase in friction and a loss of snapback compared to the non stenciled strings. However, this could be because the ink they...

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I used to use bhb7 1.20 with outlast 1.30. The soft and thinner bhb7 and the firm and thicker outlast was a great combo.

I mean putting both the center mains in the gripper and pulling tension on both of them. Does this actually half the tension?

Recently I've begun to string on a star 5 at a shop after learning on a klippermate. My first day I was told by the head stringer that to start the mains you should pull tension on the center mains simultaneously and then clamp off as close to the racquet as possible. It seemed off but I did it...

That was without the midsole. It's a drop in midsole which means you essentially place the cushioning inside the shoe. It's been used in a good amount of basketball shoes (Kobe 8, Nike hyperchase, Lebron 11) With the insole in, it would still be flexible but not nearly to the extreme shown in...

I've found that very minor denting of the crosses can be a good thing for snapback. The best snapback that I've ever seen is with revolve strung at 55 lbs and not played with for around a month. Because of this there are very very minor dents in crosses and when I pull a main string as far as...

If I want to string at 58/50 with klip legend 15l and solinco outlast 16 and I also want to lubricate my mains with fast fret to protect them before doing the crosses should I set my cross tension a little lower to account for this decrease in tension when pulling crosses? I know on a normal...

Tried the 44/46 today. The strings definitely stay in place more however there is less SnapBack. I'm going to try klip legend tour 16 with the outlast crosses at around 55/50.

I've been reapplying the fast fret continuously to prevent them from moving. I'm about to string it 44/46 and see how it plays.

The mains are moving laterally and then staying there instead of snapping back. I think I'm going to increase the tension on the crosses by two pounds, making it 45/47. There's a good guts and glory blog post on this basically stating that raising the cross string tension higher the mains allows...

I have a 6 pound differential, I use bhb7 at 46 and outlast at 40. Also I use fast fret which helps but doesn't solve the problem.

I'm using Tourna BHB7 at 46 and Solinco Outlast at 40 on my weighted ps95(signature) and I love how it plays. Only thing that bothers me is that within 30 minutes the mains are moving around, I'm still getting great spin with it even with it moving so much. Even directly after stringing when I...

I use BHB7 1.20mm mains with solinco outlast 1.20 and I can say for certain that it is better than full bed bhb7 spin and feel wise. The mains move over outlast very easily due to its low friction value. To increase snapback even more I lowered the tension of the crosses and now it almost feels...

Check signature. It can be very stable if leaded up a little. I put 4 grams at 3 and 9, 4 grams spread across tip and counterbalanced with some lead at the top of the grip and by flaring the buttcap.

No info yet??

My pro staff absolutely destroys the ball on full swings. Check signature for specs.

Maybe I didn't explain it well. The regrabbing that I'm talking about is after the strings get displaced out of position. As soon as the strings start to return to their original position, they need to "grab" or more accurately clip the ball. If this didn't happen the SnapBack would be useless...

I'm going to try out bhb7, one of the roughest polys, in 17 gauge, with solinco outlast one of the lowest friction polys in 16 gauge. The outlast will help the bhb7 snap back easier and the bhb7 will regrab the ball as it's snapping back. I don't think full bed outlast would get nearly as much...