Adding a remote to the SP Lite using the OEM header

[rjw]

I looked at the board in my SP Lite and figured out how to do a fairly painless install of a remote to control feed and oscillation.


Requires a 2 button (or more) remote ($20) Relays on the remote can have a low amperage rating. Must be a 12 volt remote.

Edge models without a remote have 2 pairs of pins that are soldered together (jumped). They are located under the remote header (oher side of board)

Simply desolder or snip the solder between the pins and hook up your remote circuit. No wires to cut or move.

Looking a the board from the side with the header and holding it with the knobs facing you, here is how it should be wired

from top to bottom

Pin

1) to Common on osc relay (on remote)
2) to NC contact on osc relay
3) to Common on feed relay
4) to NC conact on feed relay
5) to negative (-) power to remote
6) to positive (+) power to remote (12 volts)

Works perfectly.....you can buy a 6 pin plug if you want a neat installation....Mouser , Digikey and others have them

The remote will work exactly like the Sport model. When you power down and then turn the machine back on, feed and sweep will work without the remote. use the remote to shut them off after the machine is powered up. If you want to ONLY use the remote, wire to the NO rather than NC contacts

 

[Faithfulfather]

A tutorial with pics would be awesome!

 

[rjw]

Here are some pictures

in the picture below (back of board), notice the rectangle around the 2 pairs of pins that need to be unjoined. this can be done with small side cutters and/or a small soldering iron. If you look closely at this area of the board, you can see that they were hand soldered. Don't scrath the board, if you ever need to send it back.

In the picture below, I outlined the remote header. in this view, from left to right, you would hook up per my first post, (from top to bottom) Top would be left in this picture.

I'll dig up the p/n for the header connector, but I just used a pair of 3 pin connectors as found on a model airplane or rc car servo. (same pin spacing and size)

 

[Mig1NC]

Now this is a 5-star thread.

Nice info!

 

[rjw]

Now this is a 5-star thread.

Nice info!

Hope it helps someone, somewhere.....variable width 2 line mode coming up next....

 

[kevint]

Could you post some info. how to upgrade the battery pls? I am going to get the SP Lite soon. Thanks!

 

[rjw]

Could you post some info. how to upgrade the battery pls? I am going to get the SP Lite soon. Thanks!

....

Go to SP website and look at owner's manual for the Lite. this will show you how to remove the battery, but you will have to take the blue cover off to install the larger battery.

Look at owner's manual for sport/star to se how to change or install the bigger battery.

You either have to make a larger hold down bracket, or some have tie wrapped it in???

The bigger battery is equivalent to a 'Universal Power 12210'

Shop it out...I paid just under $40 for mine.

I also bought a 5 amp quick/smart charger online for $50 plus shipping

If you are older, you will definitely notice that extra weight

 

[njboy]

great post

Here are some pictures

in the picture below (back of board), notice the rectangle around the 2 pairs of pins that need to be unjoined. this can be done with small side cutters and/or a small soldering iron. If you look closely at this area of the board, you can see that they were hand soldered. Don't scrath the board, if you ever need to send it back.

In the picture below, I outlined the remote header. in this view, from left to right, you would hook up per my first post, (from top to bottom) Top would be left in this picture.

I'll dig up the p/n for the header connector, but I just used a pair of 3 pin connectors as found on a model airplane or rc car servo. (same pin spacing and size)

can you please give a link about the 6 pin plug?
many thanks.

 

[momolabs]

I have been wondering the same thing. This is an old thread but I'll post back here if I find one.

 

[momolabs]

I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure KF2510-6P is what we are looking for. My guess is that OP used something like 2 of KF2510-3P he had lying around.

 

[njboy]

Thanks,

I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure KF2510-6P is what we are looking for. My guess is that OP used something like 2 of KF2510-3P he had lying around.

Do you know where to put the remote circuit board inside the machine? And pre drilled holes to fix it on the box?

 

[Chas Tennis]

I looked at the board in my SP Lite ..........................

If you have a Lite and enjoy electrical projects - How happy are you with the pace adjustment control? So far I find on mine that I want to use settings only between 3.9 and about 4.4. That is a very narrow range of the total range of adjustment of 1.0-9.0. To adjust it I get down on my knees to reduce the parallax. It feels like a resistance pot. ? If so, would two pots in series give a coarse and fine adjustment? Would one of those pots that have incremental clicks and digits, 1-100, work? (I also turn mine down to the slowest speed to turn it on or off to minimize motor current in case that might be easier on some electrical components, probably unnecessary. )

I have the remote and it added $150 to my costs. It works well.

 

[tennis4]

Wonderful job rjw!

How did you figure out which pin pair's role? There is little (simply no) documentation on this sort of thing though.

I looked at the board in my SP Lite and figured out how to do a fairly painless install of a remote to control feed and oscillation.


Requires a 2 button (or more) remote ($20) Relays on the remote can have a low amperage rating. Must be a 12 volt remote.

Edge models without a remote have 2 pairs of pins that are soldered together (jumped). They are located under the remote header (oher side of board)

Simply desolder or snip the solder between the pins and hook up your remote circuit. No wires to cut or move.

Looking a the board from the side with the header and holding it with the knobs facing you, here is how it should be wired

from top to bottom

Pin

1) to Common on osc relay (on remote)
2) to NC contact on osc relay
3) to Common on feed relay
4) to NC conact on feed relay
5) to negative (-) power to remote
6) to positive (+) power to remote (12 volts)

Works perfectly.....you can buy a 6 pin plug if you want a neat installation....Mouser , Digikey and others have them

The remote will work exactly like the Sport model. When you power down and then turn the machine back on, feed and sweep will work without the remote. use the remote to shut them off after the machine is powered up. If you want to ONLY use the remote, wire to the NO rather than NC contacts

 

[momolabs]

Just puchased:

SP Edge Lite $699

DC12V 2CH channel Wireless Remote Control Switch System $12.18 (*bay)

3 pcs KF2510 Connector Kits 2.54mm Pin Header + Terminal + Housing KF2510-6P $1.49 (*bay)

If it works I'll have a $850 value for under $715. I could add a $40 battery if I need to to take it up to STAR level at $950.

 

[momolabs]

I did it

I just wanted to update that I successfully acomplished this upgrade on the SP lite! Some details:
1) using a solder sucker I quickly desoldered the two jumpers.
2) I soldered some 22 gauge solid core hook up wire to the pins from the header connector I bought (above). This took a while and is delicate soldering work. If I was to do it again I would use 20ga stranded to prevent breakage.
3) Inserted the pins into the header connector in the order above.
4) Connected the wires to proper screw terminals on the remote module, plugged in the header connector to the board and installed jumper on remote module for toggle operation.
5) Used stick on velcro to secure the remote module to the inside ceiling of the SP, replaced the control panel, flipped the manual osc to on, and tested.

If you could find the 6 pin header connector with wires already on it or 2x3pin like the OP did, this is a super easy upgrade. No need to take the unit apart like with a battery install. I never even had to disconnect the board like in the above pics.

I love this machine and this cheap easy upgrade!

 

[njboy]

Do you know any used electric may have that 6 pin plug?

 

[tennis_ocd]

fwiw, I have a fried board (one of those two large square things toasted) if anyone can use before I discard.

 

[momolabs]

Do you know any used electric may have that 6 pin plug?

PC fan connectors use the 3 pin 2.54mm connectors to plug into the motherboards. Also, my old directivo uses them on the fans. Dig up two old PC fans and you're in business.

Here is a source for new 6 pin wired.
Search the bay for "2510 2.54mm 6-Pin JST Connector Plug w/.Wire "

Note that this is 26AWG wire (on the listing I see) which should work but is very thin wire. I broke my solid core 22AWG a couple of times after fitting it into the 6 screw terminals on the remote module. Stranded wire would have been better, more flexible, allowing you to use a thinner guage.

This means the only coldering required is a quick desolder of the jumpers. Which took me less than a minute because I had one of these:
"Blue Sucking Vacuum Desoldering Pump Solder Sucker Remover Tool" (6 bucks on amazon) (I tried first the small side cutter method on the soldered jumpers but it just made a mess. Desoldering with a sucker or wick is the way to go, IMO.)

 

[njboy]

Thank for the information

PC fan connectors use the 3 pin 2.54mm connectors to plug into the motherboards. Also, my old directivo uses them on the fans. Dig up two old PC fans and you're in business.

Here is a source for new 6 pin wired.
Search the bay for "2510 2.54mm 6-Pin JST Connector Plug w/.Wire "

Note that this is 26AWG wire (on the listing I see) which should work but is very thin wire. I broke my solid core 22AWG a couple of times after fitting it into the 6 screw terminals on the remote module. Stranded wire would have been better, more flexible, allowing you to use a thinner guage.

This means the only coldering required is a quick desolder of the jumpers. Which took me less than a minute because I had one of these:
"Blue Sucking Vacuum Desoldering Pump Solder Sucker Remover Tool" (6 bucks on amazon) (I tried first the small side cutter method on the soldered jumpers but it just made a mess. Desoldering with a sucker or wick is the way to go, IMO.)

But do you know where to find these in local store. Went to radio shack but didnt see the connector and remoter. Not easy to buy from Bay.

 

[momolabs]

Sorry I don't or I would have looked. Radio Shack seems to carry a lot less of that type of stuff than they used to.

 

[ciocc]

Question for Momolabs

No need to take the unit apart like with a battery install. I never even had to disconnect the board like in the above pics.

Did you mean you didn't even have to take off the blue plastic body? How could that be possible?

 

[juanvargas]

Just saw this old post and want to add a remote to my silent partner. Can someone verify these are the pins that I need to desolder (two big rectangles)?

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[bonchien]

Thank you to all who contributed to this thread. I just made this update to my Silent Partner Edge Light. For anyone thinking about doing this, I bought the following:

1. 12v 2 Channel Wireless Remote Control Receiver Momentary Switch, $6.02 on the popular auction site
   
2. 2510 2.54mm 6-Pin JST Connector Plug with Wire x 5 sets, $6.99 on the popular auction site, only needed one but this was the only 6 pin connector offered.
   
3. Solder Sucker Desoldering Pump Tool Removal Vacuum Soldering Iron Desolver US E1, $2.87 on the popular auction site

Total cost was $15.88 to add the remote. No need to open the machine as all connections can be made when the control panel is removed.

All the photos no longer work in this thread, so I'm posting photos from my retrofit. Click on the photos to enlarge them:
1. Remote board with 6 pin connector cable.

2. Main Board removed from machine. Note the remote connector on the left side of the board.

3. Backside of board showing the 2 sets of pins that have been soldered together to jumper them. They are in the center of the board at the bottom of this photo. I used my soldering iron and the solder sucker tool to remove the jumper solder between the pins. I've never used a solder sucker, but it worked very well to suck up the molten solder.

4. Main board jumper solder has been removed and receiver is attached. It's very easy to install with the 6 pin connector. Just plug it into the port on the board.

5. Closeup of 6 pin connector cable on main board.

6. Receiver with cover ready to install in machine with zip ties on loose cables. The brown remote is sitting next to the receiver.

7. Receiver installed in machine with double sided automotive tape I already had on hand.

 

[Chas Tennis]

Very nice work.

You seem to like projects.

The single rotation pots for adjustments on the Lite require much too fine adjustments especially for speed. It is hard to reproduce the speed using the pot and I have to get on my knees with reading glasses to see the tiny scale on the pot. Maybe there is too much trial and error to get the speed you want. There must be a better way to set the Lite.

I recall thumbwheel pots from many years ago where I believe that you could flip wheels to get a given resistance, for example, say 5.7 ohms. What are your thoughts about using another type of pot or pots in series to adjust the speed? Because of the variations in balls probably setting of current to 1% for speed would be adequate. A two thumbwheel pot?

If you do the design work maybe you could offer it to the company as an improvement.

Another related question on turning off the motor. For a time I would first turn down the speed pot to zero before flipping the OFF switch. I did that to reduce any inductive sparking in the switch as the motor is turned off. (I have assumed that the motor current goes through the ON-OFF switch but don't know. ?) Now I just turn it off because I like to keep my speed adjustment as set. Any thoughts?

 

[bonchien]

I've only had the SP Lite for a few days. I do find that the adjustment knobs have a very narrow band in which I get the speed and frequency that I want. Most reports I've read is that a speed setting of 5 is about tops for most people, and a speed setting of 3 puts out a pretty slow ball, so I'm only using the speed setting between 3 and 5. I don't have enough knowledge of electronics to what type of pot would work better. It can certainly be improved upon, and I would be interested to hear if anyone with knowledge of electronics knows the answer.

 

[MatMaster]

I've only had the SP Lite for a few days. I do find that the adjustment knobs have a very narrow band in which I get the speed and frequency that I want. Most reports I've read is that a speed setting of 5 is about tops for most people, and a speed setting of 3 puts out a pretty slow ball, so I'm only using the speed setting between 3 and 5. I don't have enough knowledge of electronics to what type of pot would work better. It can certainly be improved upon, and I would be interested to hear if anyone with knowledge of electronics knows the answer.

Can you confirm the wire order is correct in your pics? I ordered the same parts you did, and wired it the exact same way, but can't get the remote to work.

 

[bonchien]

Can you confirm the wire order is correct in your pics? I ordered the same parts you did, and wired it the exact same way, but can't get the remote to work.

You should probably test the remote/receiver using a standard 9V rectangular battery like the type that go in a smoke detector. The remote may have its battery wrapped in plastic, so you'll need to remove the plastic before it will work. Once you've powered up the receiver with the 9V battery, you need to program the receiver to recognize the remote, normally by pressing the button on the receiver's main board then pressing a button on the receiver. You will then hear the relays click when they switch between open and closed.

Looking at photo 4 in my post to denote top and bottom for the main board, the black wire is at the top and the orange wire is at the bottom:

1) to Common on osc relay (on remote) -- black wire in photo
2) to NC contact on osc relay -- red wire in photo
3) to Common on feed relay -- white wire in photo
4) to NC conact on feed relay -- yellow wire in photo
5) to negative (-) power to remote -- orange wire in photo
6) to positive (+) power to remote (12 volts) -- green wire in photo

If the receiver and remote work but its not working on the ball machine, I would first check to make sure the solder is not connecting the pins on the silent partner's main board anymore. Next, check to make sure you're getting 12 Volts at the receiver on the green and orange wires. You should also have 12V between the negative screw at the receiver and the common screw for each relay. If none of this fixes it, let us know if the remote is working and what troubleshooting steps you've taken.

 

[MatMaster]

You should probably test the remote/receiver using a standard 9V rectangular battery like the type that go in a smoke detector. The remote may have its battery wrapped in plastic, so you'll need to remove the plastic before it will work. Once you've powered up the receiver with the 9V battery, you need to program the receiver to recognize the remote, normally by pressing the button on the receiver's main board then pressing a button on the receiver. You will then hear the relays click when they switch between open and closed.

Looking at photo 4 in my post to denote top and bottom for the main board, the black wire is at the top and the orange wire is at the bottom:

1) to Common on osc relay (on remote) -- black wire in photo
2) to NC contact on osc relay -- red wire in photo
3) to Common on feed relay -- white wire in photo
4) to NC conact on feed relay -- yellow wire in photo
5) to negative (-) power to remote -- orange wire in photo
6) to positive (+) power to remote (12 volts) -- green wire in photo

If the receiver and remote work but its not working on the ball machine, I would first check to make sure the solder is not connecting the pins on the silent partner's main board anymore. Next, check to make sure you're getting 12 Volts at the receiver on the green and orange wires. You should also have 12V between the negative screw at the receiver and the common screw for each relay. If none of this fixes it, let us know if the remote is working and what troubleshooting steps you've taken.

Thanks for the info. I didn't realize the remote had to be programmed to the receiver first, so that likely could be the issue. I'll try the 9v battery test and let you know how it turns out. Also, I have the Edge Sport which doesn't have and connections soldered, but instead has a "feed delay" adapter plugged into the pins.

 

[MatMaster]

Also, I assumed the positive and negative connections on our receivers were on the same side, so I just followed the exact same color sequence as in your pics putting the green wire on the left side and the orange wire on the right. Upon closer inspection of my receiver, the negative is on the left and positive is on the right which means I need to switch the green and orange wires around.

 

[bonchien]

Thanks for the info. I didn't realize the remote had to be programmed to the receiver first, so that likely could be the issue. I'll try the 9v battery test and let you know how it turns out. Also, I have the Edge Sport which doesn't have and connections soldered, but instead has a "feed delay" adapter plugged into the pins.

I'm pretty sure you'll need to disconnect the feed delay for the remote to turn the feed on and off. My guess is that feed delay completes the circuit after the delay time. After it has completed the circuit between the two pins, turning it off with the remote won't do anything.

 

[flair]

Fantastic write-up on how to add a remote. I just completed the process and it was relatively simple. Now I'm all prepped for the start of the outdoor tennis season

 

[bonchien]

I received a request to repost my photos since the links are dead. Here they are:

All the photos no longer work in this thread, so I'm posting photos from my retrofit. Click on the photos to enlarge them:
1. Remote board with 6 pin connector cable.

2. Main Board removed from machine. Note the remote connector on the left side of the board.

3. Backside of board showing the 2 sets of pins that have been soldered together to jumper them. They are in the center of the board at the bottom of this photo. I used my soldering iron and the solder sucker tool to remove the jumper solder between the pins. I've never used a solder sucker, but it worked very well to suck up the molten solder.

4. Main board jumper solder has been removed and receiver is attached. It's very easy to install with the 6 pin connector. Just plug it into the port on the board.

5. Closeup of 6 pin connector cable on main board.

6. Receiver with cover ready to install in machine with zip ties on loose cables. The brown remote is sitting next to the receiver.

7. Receiver installed in machine with double sided automotive tape I already had on hand.

 

[bidong10]

Hello, its been awhile, but i dont know if you still remember how to program the remote, mine came in w/out instructions. Thank you in advance.

 

[Gjmess]

I know this is an old thread but thought I would add to it anyway. I picked up a sp lite off of **** and thought I would modify it with these instructions/suggestions. It worked perfectly. Had to reprogram the wireless transmitter but that was easy. Anyway....I ended buying 10 wire harnesses and only used 1. If anyone needs one....get a hold of me and I can mail you one. No costs just postage. Also I can provide the type of transmitter I bought and reprogramming instructions if needed.