Adding lead to the handle. Help required!

jamesmajin

New User
Hi guys,

im wanting to make my racket a bit more headlight.

Im not keen on taking off the buttcapp etc and plan to just put strips of lead tape on the bare handle itself, then cover it with insulation/electrical tape (so it doesnt stick to the replacement grip), and then use an overgrip on top.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=x2nrs9&s=5#.U3C2ja1dXC8

Thats picture shows what i plan to do, but im just wondering which sides of the handle should i put it on? should i put 4 strips 1 on each bevel, or just two long strips? If i do two long strips surely i need to put it so that its on the 2 bevels that lineup with the frame, rather than the bevels that are at a right angle?

Anyway just looking for some clarification before i go ahead and do it.

thanks in advance!

(apologies if this is in the wrong forum mods)
 
Hi guys,

im wanting to make my racket a bit more headlight.

Im not keen on taking off the buttcapp etc and plan to just put strips of lead tape on the bare handle itself, then cover it with insulation/electrical tape (so it doesnt stick to the replacement grip), and then use an overgrip on top.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=x2nrs9&s=5#.U3C2ja1dXC8

Thats picture shows what i plan to do, but im just wondering which sides of the handle should i put it on? should i put 4 strips 1 on each bevel, or just two long strips? If i do two long strips surely i need to put it so that its on the 2 bevels that lineup with the frame, rather than the bevels that are at a right angle?

Anyway just looking for some clarification before i go ahead and do it.

thanks in advance!

(apologies if this is in the wrong forum mods)

I personally would use two long strips, but you can also use 4 strips if you prefer it (4 strips are shorter and thus the added mass will be more concentrated towards the bottom of the handle, making the racquet more HL than with the 2 long strips). If you use 2 strips, I would apply them to the bevels on the sides that aren't along the hitting surfaces.
 
I personally would use two long strips, but you can also use 4 strips if you prefer it (4 strips are shorter and thus the added mass will be more concentrated towards the bottom of the handle, making the racquet more HL than with the 2 long strips). If you use 2 strips, I would apply them to the bevels on the sides that aren't along the hitting surfaces.

thanks very much, great post. Yes i want it to be as headlight as possible so ill probably go with the 4 short strips. should i put just 1 layer or a couple of layers? or will i be able to feel the lead under my grip too much if i do that?

cheers
 
Instead of electrical tape use cellophane tape to protect the lead from the grip adhesive. I've used both and cellophane works better. It also adds virtually zero weight. 8" of electrical tape adds 1 gram which is just two laps around most handles. Wrapping it around the handle several times can quickly add a quarter once to the frame.
 
You can put strips down the length of the grip or you can wrap it around the grip. On most grips, you can put 1/2" tape on the wide bevels and 1/4" tape on the narrow bevels.

I always wrap my with packing tape to keep the lead from sticking to the grip.

85kw6DQl.jpg


SOJf83Tl.jpg
 
thanks very much, great post. Yes i want it to be as headlight as possible so ill probably go with the 4 short strips. should i put just 1 layer or a couple of layers? or will i be able to feel the lead under my grip too much if i do that?

cheers

depends on how HL you want the racquet to be… I'd use the TW customization tool in order to find out the new balance with the respective added mass. Just measure where the center of the lead strips you would be applying is and use the distance from the buttcap to that point as your lead placement position in the measurement tool. Finally vary the added mass until you reach a balance that suits your preferences. Don't put on too many layers though, as they will stack up and give the grip a weird shape with air gaps between the bevels for the replacement grip.
 
You can put strips down the length of the grip or you can wrap it around the grip. On most grips, you can put 1/2" tape on the wide bevels and 1/4" tape on the narrow bevels.

I always wrap my with packing tape to keep the lead from sticking to the grip.

85kw6DQl.jpg


SOJf83Tl.jpg

thanks for the reply, only problem is i have 2013 wilson blades which have amplifeel so i wouldnt be able to stick lead on each bevel. i use a leather grip at the moment to make it headlight but its hurting my hands too much (even with overgrip) so want the lead to equal what the leather grip did, so probablt about ten grams of lead?
thanks
 
depends on how HL you want the racquet to be… I'd use the TW customization tool in order to find out the new balance with the respective added mass. Just measure where the center of the lead strips you would be applying is and use the distance from the buttcap to that point as your lead placement position in the measurement tool. Finally vary the added mass until you reach a balance that suits your preferences. Don't put on too many layers though, as they will stack up and give the grip a weird shape with air gaps between the bevels for the replacement grip.

if i only put it on the 2 bevels which correspond to the hitting area will there be must difference to the alternative method of putting 4 on? will it feel different on contact or anything?

thanks again
 
thanks for the reply, only problem is i have 2013 wilson blades which have amplifeel so i wouldnt be able to stick lead on each bevel. i use a leather grip at the moment to make it headlight but its hurting my hands too much (even with overgrip) so want the lead to equal what the leather grip did, so probablt about ten grams of lead?
thanks

then add ten grams along the whole length of the handle in order to emulate the effect of the leather grip. That would be a total of 40 inches 1/4 inch lead tape or 20 inches 1/2 inch lead tape. Do your calculations on how much to cut and apply based on that.

if i only put it on the 2 bevels which correspond to the hitting area will there be must difference to the alternative method of putting 4 on? will it feel different on contact or anything?

thanks again

there will not be a noticeable difference.
 
I just put some shock tape in the handle of my APD...works well at both tail weighting and reducing vibration. Added 3/8ths oz by rolling it up in an oval shape and inserting it in the butt.
 
Thats picture shows what i plan to do, but im just wondering which sides of the handle should i put it on? should i put 4 strips 1 on each bevel, or just two long strips? If i do two long strips surely i need to put it so that its on the 2 bevels that lineup with the frame, rather than the bevels that are at a right angle?

That's what I do when I add lead to my grips. With a couple of my frames, I've added a longer strip of 1/4" lead tape to those bevels that run almost the entire length of the grip. I just leave them short enough so that the ends are covered. I also like to put one or two wraps of lead tape around the flare of the butt cap for better "tail-weighting". It gives me a mildly more pronounced buildup at the bottom of the grip and that placement is the most efficient for tuning the balance more head-light.

I avoid putting anything on the bevels that are in the plane of the string bed because those are the most important for my grip feel and positioning. One layer probably won't mess with that feel much, but once two or three layers are present, I've felt a difference with my grips.
 
I don't from where exactly they take the swing point (fulcrum point) for measuring official swing weights. But doesn't it make sense to assume a fulcrum point further up the handle?
And if that's the case doesn't adding lead further up the handle (towards the top) have a bigger effect on the actual SW?

I found this but didn't have the answer i was looking for:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=295371
 
I don't from where exactly they take the swing point (fulcrum point) for measuring official swing weights. But doesn't it make sense to assume a fulcrum point further up the handle?
And if that's the case doesn't adding lead further up the handle (towards the top) have a bigger effect on the actual SW?

I found this but didn't have the answer i was looking for:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=295371

he wants to make the racquet more HL so applying the lead up top where swingweight is increased is not what he's going for I'd say. Rather applying the lead tape along the length of the handle will emulate how the leather grip added mass and give him a similar weight and balance sensation.
 
That's what I do when I add lead to my grips. With a couple of my frames, I've added a longer strip of 1/4" lead tape to those bevels that run almost the entire length of the grip. I just leave them short enough so that the ends are covered. I also like to put one or two wraps of lead tape around the flare of the butt cap for better "tail-weighting". It gives me a mildly more pronounced buildup at the bottom of the grip and that placement is the most efficient for tuning the balance more head-light.

I avoid putting anything on the bevels that are in the plane of the string bed because those are the most important for my grip feel and positioning. One layer probably won't mess with that feel much, but once two or three layers are present, I've felt a difference with my grips.

thanks for your reply, this seems to be the best way to go. two long strips the length of the handle. anyone know how much those 2 strips will equal roughly?
as you say, can always wrap one strip round the flare of the buttcap. cheers
 
he wants to make the racquet more HL so applying the lead up top where swingweight is increased is not what he's going for I'd say. Rather applying the lead tape along the length of the handle will emulate how the leather grip added mass and give him a similar weight and balance sensation.

thats right, just want headlight not increased swingweight.
 
thanks for your reply, this seems to be the best way to go. two long strips the length of the handle. anyone know how much those 2 strips will equal roughly?
as you say, can always wrap one strip round the flare of the buttcap. cheers

4 inches of 1/4 inch lead tape are one gram
2 inches of 1/2 inch lead tape are one gram

do your calculations based on this.
 
4 inches of 1/4 inch lead tape are one gram
2 inches of 1/2 inch lead tape are one gram

do your calculations based on this.

sorry to bother you just one more quick q. is there any reason not to add lead all the way up the handle on all 4 bevels? i know you said 2 strips all way up or 4 short ones? is there a disadvantage to do 4 all the way up rather than just at the bottom?
cheers
 
sorry to bother you just one more quick q. is there any reason not to add lead all the way up the handle on all 4 bevels? i know you said 2 strips all way up or 4 short ones? is there a disadvantage to do 4 all the way up rather than just at the bottom?
cheers

I probably didn't express myself too well, good point.

What I meant to say is that you will need less lead tape (on each bevel) to reach the desired result for lead on 4 bevels vs lead on 2 bevels. This is because you are applying the mass to more bevels (x/4 < x/2) and thus the added mass is more concentrated towards the end of the handle.

There will be no disadvantages or advantages between the two methods (aside from the 2 bevel method making the grip a more uneven shape when enough lead tape is added). What your goal should be however, is to emulate the added mass of the leather grip. The leather grip added mass along the whole length of the handle in a (more or less) consistent manner. Therefore, you'll ideally want to compensate for the lack of mass of the missing leather grip by applying lead tape along the whole length of the handle. The center of the added mass should be close to the the center of the handle. Depending on the length of lead tape you need and the length of your handle, either the 2 bevel or 4 bevel method can be used. Just make sure that the lead tape is applied evenly/equally along the length of the handle.
 
sorry to bump my own thread but need help again! i went for 2 long strips in the end all the way up the 2 frame bevels and then 1 strip wrapped round the buttcap and it was far far far too heavy!
so now im going to take some off and want to either have just 1 wrap around the flare of the buttcap OR 4 short strips on each bevel. which is a better option for racket to be more headlight? thanks!
 
sorry to bump my own thread but need help again! i went for 2 long strips in the end all the way up the 2 frame bevels and then 1 strip wrapped round the buttcap and it was far far far too heavy!
so now im going to take some off and want to either have just 1 wrap around the flare of the buttcap OR 4 short strips on each bevel. which is a better option for racket to be more headlight? thanks!

1 strip around the flare of the buttcap? Depends on the difference in mass between the two methods really.
 
1 strip around the flare of the buttcap? Depends on the difference in mass between the two methods really.

i meant more in terms of which will be more effective in affecting balance/feel of the grip itself. surely the nearer the bottom of the grip, the better the tailweighting effect?
 
I don't from where exactly they take the swing point (fulcrum point) for measuring official swing weights. But doesn't it make sense to assume a fulcrum point further up the handle?
And if that's the case doesn't adding lead further up the handle (towards the top) have a bigger effect on the actual SW?

I found this but didn't have the answer i was looking for:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=295371

Adding mass ANYWHERE on the frame, from butt cap to tip, will increase the frame's actual, real-world, on-court swing weight. The reason is that you swing the frame from points in space well beyond the butt cap and not from a point 10 cm up the handle (which is how reference SW is calculated).

In fact, the reference SW shown on various tennis sites is an oddity since, as it's calculated, you can literally add an infinite amount of mass to a point 10 cm from the butt cap and the SW doesn't change one bit. Go to the TWU customization tool and try it...add as much mass as you want at 10 cm and SW doesn't budge (obviously the frame does become harder to swing but that reality is not reflected by the SW formula or accepted by flat eathers here on TT).
 
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