Adding Power + Keeping Manoeuvrability

[sneezeey]

Bit of a novice in terms of customising here.

I use the first version of the Prince Tour 95, the pre-Textreme one, from 2013-14ish, I think. From a bit of setup trial-and-error plus a preference for a flared grip (which I had to do myself with a bit of old overgrip), I've come to a feel which I like, 358g strung but really whippy and manoeuvrable at 328 SW, just as I like it for my one-handed backhand.

I do, however, want a bit of extra power, which I understand can be gained with some weight added to the hoop. I have swung significantly higher SWs before, but I still want to keep the most whippiness possible. Any recommendations on how much weight to add and where to do it please?

 

[Notorious_Junkballer]

You can add SW and still retain the whippy balance by adding weight to both hoop and handle. Adding weight at noon (12 o'clock) generates the most SW for the added mass while adding the same amount to 10&14 or 3&9 gives you a little less added swing weight but also more torsional stability.

 

[mistapooh]

You can also lower your tension down by 1-2 lbs and go from there.

 

[fuzz nation]

I'm used to racquets with a weight and balance in the same neighborhood as what you seem to prefer. I also hit a one-handed and that combo of stability and ease of maneuvering in a racquet is a must for me.

I've been using Volkl C10's for several years - the newest pair that I play have enough heft and power for me, but they have lead added to their handles for a little extra HL balance. I generally use 1/2" lead tape on my racquet handles (1/4" lead tape on the hoops) and the first place I apply it is to the two bevels parallel to the edge of the frame, not the bevels parallel with the string bed. This seems to leave the shape of my grips feeling about the same. These lengths of lead tape may be 5-7 inches.

I also sometimes place one or two layers at the bottom of the grip to slightly build up the butt cap flare, but it sounds as though you already have some spare overgrip there for the same effect. You could remove that extra overgrip and put one or two layers of lead down there if you have a case where you need to add a lot of weight to a handle. The closer the heavy tape is applied to the bottom of the handle, the more effective it is at moving the balance point away from the hoop.

I like to lead my hoops at 3/9 o'clock to give them more power and also more stability - just what I prefer. When I do this I try to take small steps because a little weight added to the hoop can go a very long way, especially compared with leading my handle. One application or "step" might mean placing only 3 or 4 grams total at 3/9 o'clock and trying that out for a little while. I've used a practice court with a backboard to help with my tunings where I can hit some strokes and serves as I go. Easy to stop and adjust things there instead of testing the patience of a hitting partner.

Instead of coming from the perspective that I want to use the heaviest racquet that I can manage for a full outing, I now look at it sort of the other way around. I want the lightest racquet that's still stable and comfortable for my game. That way I'm not tricking myself into swinging a racquet with more beef than I need. That also means that I'll use a lighter model when teaching or coaching lower level players and I don't need a bludgeon for easier feeds and rallies. The C10 is too much for me in that setting, but my stock V-Sense 10 325g is just fine.