anyone w/experience on Head I.S10 stringing or otherwise

Discussion in 'Racquets' started by M C, Mar 30, 2004.

  1. M C

    M C New User

    Feb 23, 2004
    I string with a Klippermate. Recently, I noticed stringing an Head i.s10 that the racket bent slightly when I dropped the tension weight. I inquired into whether or not this was normal. I got this as a response, and coincidentally my main customer uses an i.s10. So what should I do relating to the bold part of this quote?

    His advice-"Regardless of the stringer, there will be some frame flex. If you clamp your frame properly in your Klipper, you should have no problem. "
    There are certain frames such as the Head iS10/12 that recommend a stringer to drop the tension if the machine has a 2 point (like your Klipper) or a 4 point mounting system. However, these are rare. I started on a Klipper many moons ago. "

    Should I drop tension, if so how much. I have noticed the frame bends when I apply tension to each cross string.
  2. predrag

    predrag Professional

    Feb 18, 2004
    Ann Arbor, MI
    I strung I.S10 just recently on my Laserfibre Eco. Except being confused that the top cross string was SOO low, I did not have other problems. I noticed that the paint of the I. racquets is easily peeling of, and I saw marks from the previous stringing (definitely 2 point).

    Regards, Predrag
  3. Loud

    Loud Rookie

    Feb 19, 2004
    I have had no distortion problems stringing an IS10 on my LF.
  4. equinox

    equinox Hall of Fame

    Nov 19, 2004
    Cocos Islands, WA
    Curse you head and your crappy Intelliblah paintjobs.

    I strung the head I.s10 tonight @ 55 lbs with gosen og sheep 16 for a friend.
    Using Stringway eco flying clamps model with T-bar.
    After I finished and had unmounted the racket. I noticed cosmetic damage to the throat area where the T-bar is located and from the underside rubber feet.
    Also few of my early pulls cut into the racket throat, causing a nasty slash blemish.
    I put some protective tape material to limit further blemishs from string pulls.

    I'm not happy about the cosmetic damage, i mounted it no tighter than i normally have done with other rackets. I'm puzzled. Apart from the pulling underneth the racket, i don't think i could have done much else.

    I will apologise to my friend and of course not charge him for the stringjob.
    Even though the racket is fairly old and had a few dings already, an extra few blemishs from stringing is unacceptable result. :\

    Hopefully he'll be understanding and not take me to the bank. ;)

    I'll not be stringing this racket again.
  5. 10isbum

    10isbum New User

    May 3, 2004
    Head I S 10 & 12

    Had several friends who played with the Head I S 10 and 12 and my experience is that they are rather fragile rackets and with the 14 mains strings, require frequent restringing. Between them, perhaps as many as 10 broken rackets and that doesn't include the 3 or 4 that I've been able to repair and keep going. I use a a 6 point mounting system so no distortion of the racket while stringing. Always remove the bottom grommet at the 6 o'clock position to see if the frame is caving in, between the grommet holes, prior to each stringing. If damage is found, I would epoxy and hand fabricate a metal band to be used under the grommet to reinforce the frame. Hairline crack will appear at the 10 & 2, as well as 4 & 6 o'clock position and if you catch early enough epoxy will keep it going for sometime. Early model had a max tension range of 67 lb and later model changed that to 61 lb, os I think Head was well aware of the problems. To Head's credit, I don't recall them turning down any replacement request of any of the rackets that we thought broke prematurely, not due to damage incurred such as hitting the court surface or attributed to player's error. One other area that may cause problems are the knot holes. If you string at high tension, the knot holes can get enlarged or distorted, especially using a two piece string job where you are using one of the main string as an anchor to the cross string. I finally learned to ease off the tension on the first two cross string pulls and also how to repair and resleeve the hole. Yes a royal pain in the b---, but the applications learned can be used on other frames that are difficult to find and many have switched to other frames and I cannot say I am least bit upset that they are changing.

Share This Page