fritzhimself
Professional
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Babolat 3001 instructions
- Thread starter galicia2102
- Start date
euchoulis
New User
Thank you @fritzhimself
I can try, depends on what's wrong with it.
euchoulis
New User
Ι have a burnt component on the motherboard. Do you have some kind of schematics for it ?
It's the component that is all blacked out and it shows shorted. Lower right of circled ic.
@euchoulis
This is a suitable replacement tantalum capacitor. It's 10 uF, 16 volts.
SMD Soldered stuff can be tricky, so be sure to know what you're doing or otherwise it may be a good idea to outsource this.
Also, try to find out why it burned out. Was it getting a surge?
This is a suitable replacement tantalum capacitor. It's 10 uF, 16 volts.
https://www.****.co.uk/itm/10uF-16V...MSUNG-TCSCS1C106KBCR-QTY-100pcs-/131523545983
SMD Soldered stuff can be tricky, so be sure to know what you're doing or otherwise it may be a good idea to outsource this.
Also, try to find out why it burned out. Was it getting a surge?
Ι have a burnt component on the motherboard. Do you have some kind of schematics for it ?
It's the component that is all blacked out and it shows shorted. Lower right of circled ic.
Closeup
[/ QUOTE]
Most likely that is the schematic. The burnt component is capacitor C11 (22uF/25V)
Ok, 10uF / 16V is correct, but the value doesn't matter much. Observe the voltage, not less than 16 volts. The capacitance can be from 4.7uF to 22uF , whatever you find. If all other elements are working, the machine will function without this capacitor.
If I had the schematics of the machines I would share them. The information I published is from DATA Sheed for IS AD7772KP. When you don't have a schematic, you look for sampleActually, a better question would be: How did you get the schematics? Do you have any more? And the 10000000 dollar question: Do you have the load cell specs?
applications for the individual modules and adjust. In your case, the damaged capacitor is in
the power supply part of the circuit, so the value is not so important. If it has broken, remove it and measure -15V parallel to it. You can also check pin 20 of AD7772KP there looking for +5V. If voltages are missing, check the power supply without consumers. repairing the power supply is easier. I hope you have success.
To the 10,000,000 dollar question, I will answer like this. I replaced the non-working load cell
of Star5 with a load cell from a 40 kg fishing scale. I got the best results when the resistance of one arm of the bridge was about 900 ohms. Subsequent calibration was successful. There
was a displacement of 1 kg at 40 kg. In the ranges 5kg/ 10kg/ 20kg and 30kg the nonlinearity was 0.2-0.3kg. The client was satisfied.
Thanks! Fwiw, this is not about my machine but rather @euchoulis but point well taken. I'm not that deep into electronics, but nice to see people contribute that are obviously next level such as yourself! I might call upon your services if you feel like it, as I have a non functional Pacific 700 series stringing machine in my shed that needs diagnostics.
I do believe there are differences between the star4 series loadcell (which is the 3002, 3001, 2002, 2502 etc etc) series and the star 5, but this may be worth a try. If I had the exact specs, I could arrange for a factory to build a few.
I do believe there are differences between the star4 series loadcell (which is the 3002, 3001, 2002, 2502 etc etc) series and the star 5, but this may be worth a try. If I had the exact specs, I could arrange for a factory to build a few.
Hi
I have a Babolat 2502e which was workig fine until last week, I had the same problem like other poeple , pressing on yellow button gives two second beep and the tension head does not move.
After a long diagonastics, I found that the -15V regulator was heating up I could bearly touch it, which meant short circuit on consumer side Yes, the same capacitor mentioned above was broke. I think everyone will have the same problem, it is about life time now.
I removed it and the machine is working well again. Thank you guys!!
I have a Babolat 2502e which was workig fine until last week, I had the same problem like other poeple , pressing on yellow button gives two second beep and the tension head does not move.
After a long diagonastics, I found that the -15V regulator was heating up I could bearly touch it, which meant short circuit on consumer side Yes, the same capacitor mentioned above was broke. I think everyone will have the same problem, it is about life time now.
I removed it and the machine is working well again. Thank you guys!!
Mr. Thinking
New User
Hello everyone.
I am Ümit Güngör from Turkey. I am an electronics repairman.
I have a defective babolat 3370. Pressing the yellow button makes a bib sound but does not move.
I followed the calibration steps in the topic, but I could not reach a result. I took the job a little more seriously and drew the schematic of the loadcell circuit. I left it below.
There are test point points on the diagram.
There are markings indicating the same points on the photo of the back surface of the circuit.
I request from you:
If you have one of the employees of this machine, can you please measure how many volts there are at these points with a multimeter and answer me?
When measuring, the black probe of the multimeter should always be where it says gnd. Based on this information, I'll look elsewhere to see if there's a bug. I will let you know the result.
If you can help I would be very grateful and I can send some of the processor side of the schematic as well.
By the way, the original schematic of the device I drew is different from the example schematic taken from the AD7772 datasheet sent by @emo_168.
I am Ümit Güngör from Turkey. I am an electronics repairman.
I have a defective babolat 3370. Pressing the yellow button makes a bib sound but does not move.
I followed the calibration steps in the topic, but I could not reach a result. I took the job a little more seriously and drew the schematic of the loadcell circuit. I left it below.
There are test point points on the diagram.
There are markings indicating the same points on the photo of the back surface of the circuit.
I request from you:
If you have one of the employees of this machine, can you please measure how many volts there are at these points with a multimeter and answer me?
When measuring, the black probe of the multimeter should always be where it says gnd. Based on this information, I'll look elsewhere to see if there's a bug. I will let you know the result.
If you can help I would be very grateful and I can send some of the processor side of the schematic as well.
By the way, the original schematic of the device I drew is different from the example schematic taken from the AD7772 datasheet sent by @emo_168.
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Rabbit
G.O.A.T.
@Mr. Thinking - paging @abllee2198 for you. He is in the know on these machines. Hopefully he'll reply.
Mr. Thinking
New User
Mr. Thinking
New User
@Mr. Thinking I have a few, but I'd have to tear one down to get those meassurements - I'd need to find some time to do that. Meanwhile, i would suggest that you carefully check the full connectivity on the flatcable running from the main board to the offset board. In most if not all situations where the loadcell is ok, I found that it had degraded and had intermittend or lost contacts.
Mr. Thinking
New User
@jeroenn :
Yes, there was a deformation in that cable. But as a result of my careful measurements, I realized that there was no problem. If necessary, I can order a new 8-film cable and replace it. Or I can make my own 26awg silicone, movement resistant cables.
I will pray that you have time to take the measurements.
Actually, I suspect the Ad7772 IC as well. Because it's getting hot.
I drew the diagram of that part and took notes by measuring the voltage values.
I may have to ask you for help in confirming these measurements, but this may test your patience. So I'll leave that for later.
Yes, there was a deformation in that cable. But as a result of my careful measurements, I realized that there was no problem. If necessary, I can order a new 8-film cable and replace it. Or I can make my own 26awg silicone, movement resistant cables.
I will pray that you have time to take the measurements.
Actually, I suspect the Ad7772 IC as well. Because it's getting hot.
I drew the diagram of that part and took notes by measuring the voltage values.
I may have to ask you for help in confirming these measurements, but this may test your patience. So I'll leave that for later.
@Mr. Thinking Did you meassure on pull or in rest?
Mr. Thinking
New User
Mr. Thinking
New User
hopefully
I would be grateful
Mr. Thinking
New User
@jeroenn :
I'm on a trip. When I get back I'll compare with my own circuits and answer.
Thank you for doing this for me. I would like to do something in return. Is there anything I can do from here?
Posters like you make this forum very special.
Mr. Thinking
New User
I did all the voltages according to the settings you posted. But my device still didn't work.
Do you have another idea? Where should I look? In some voltages on the motherboard side, as follows:
Do you have another idea? Where should I look? In some voltages on the motherboard side, as follows:
Mr. Thinking
New User
It looks like a few processors are faulty. Therefore, I will design a new circuit that will do the same job and operate the device in this way. Thank you to everyone who helped. When I'm done, I'll share it here so that those with electronics knowledge and skills can do it.
Mr. Thinking
New User
I'm still working on the new card design. Some of it is finished. There is something I want to learn: How many kg intervals should I adjust the tension force? I have to embed that force into the software.
I haven't really pursued it further, but there is a guy in germany I think who refurbishes loadcells for like 300 euro's. Not sure where you are located? I still have a good LC somewhere, so I could see if I can have it meassured and replicated but that will be something for this winter I think...
I would pay the 300E if I knew that was the problem for sure. But alas, I do not. There is nothing on any circuit board that is fried, like the capacitor earlier in this thread, and neither of the ribbon cables are damaged or shorting internally. Beyond that, I have no idea what to check or diagnose. The load cell looks like a block of aluminum to me with 4 wires somehow connected to it. A stringing machine repairman I am not. I just recently read about some secret codes that can be displayed, have to figure out how to get those. And how is a load cell tested?
Where are you located?
The loadcell is an aluminium block with a variable resistor (strain gauge) atteched to it. The more the block deforms, the bigger the value change and that's how it's meassured.
The strain gauge is a very thin wire and at some point it breaks. To repair it, the strain gauge is replaced by a correct alternative, but since there are always small variations, you always need to calibrate.
The aluminium block itself is just shaped in such a way that it's practical to use.
I'd have to dig around to see if the error codes are even usable in this case.
The loadcell is an aluminium block with a variable resistor (strain gauge) atteched to it. The more the block deforms, the bigger the value change and that's how it's meassured.
The strain gauge is a very thin wire and at some point it breaks. To repair it, the strain gauge is replaced by a correct alternative, but since there are always small variations, you always need to calibrate.
The aluminium block itself is just shaped in such a way that it's practical to use.
I'd have to dig around to see if the error codes are even usable in this case.
I live in Guelph, Ontario, Canada.
Tonight I'm going to hotwire the motor to make sure that's not the issue, and see if I can find a 24v power source to test the main board relay to rule that out as well.
Is there a quick(ish) way to tell if the load cell is damaged? It has 4 wires coming off of it, and when I checked resistance across each of them it was either 360ish ohms, or 260ish ohms depending on which wires were tested (at the solder points on the circuit board).
How would I access the error codes or other secret options?
Thanks for the help.
Tonight I'm going to hotwire the motor to make sure that's not the issue, and see if I can find a 24v power source to test the main board relay to rule that out as well.
Is there a quick(ish) way to tell if the load cell is damaged? It has 4 wires coming off of it, and when I checked resistance across each of them it was either 360ish ohms, or 260ish ohms depending on which wires were tested (at the solder points on the circuit board).
How would I access the error codes or other secret options?
Thanks for the help.
I tested the motor, and I can safely rule it out as at 12v it runs smooth in both directions and takes about 0.6amps of power to run. I haven't tested the relay yet, but that's next. I will update with results.
For anyone that knows, how do I get the machine to display the secret codes +3 and +4 that I have read about?
Thanks.
I don't know the exact details for the 2502e, but I do know them for the 3002. There's an unmarked button on the panel next to the '3' button, which on the 3002 gives access to some functions. Nothing about error codes though, so I doubt it will be helpfull. You could try the calibration procedure first, resolder the wires to the swtiches at the beginning and end of the head glide rails. If that all yields nothing and the relais are OK, I'd bet it would be the load cell.
I tried to recalibrate it a few years ago and that didn't help. I can try again, but I've lost the instructions so if anyone has them I'd appreciate if they would be sent to me. I tested the relay tonight and it's fine. I did discover that if I hold the + and - buttons when I turn the machine on the display shows some digits on it. Those change as I scroll through with the +/- buttons. On the display it shows:
+1.286
42L
FAH
+52.1
+2.02
I have no idea what those mean, if anyone knows, please enlighten me.
Thanks again for any info.
+1.286
42L
FAH
+52.1
+2.02
I have no idea what those mean, if anyone knows, please enlighten me.
Thanks again for any info.
@Renboy try this link
tt.tennis-warehouse.com
Babolat 2501 e problem
I found a Babolat 2501e in decent condition to an extremely low price.. around 180 $. I knew though that it not worked but I bought it anyway and will see if I can bring it life. Have to check with you guys first if anyone know what can be the problem Whwn pressing the on button, The machine...
tt.tennis-warehouse.com
I just tried what was in that thread/link. The distance limiting microswitches are fine, they both work as should and the solder connection is good. I tested the switches at the connector to the main board. Regarding the adjustment for whatever that part is under the plastic cap, I did as the instructions dictated and now when I turn the machine on and press the yellow tension button the machine still does nothing. It no longer beeps though when it does nothing. The preset tension disappears from the screen and is replaced with a 0 and that's it. If I pull on the tension head by hand, the number on the screen indicates the change in tension so I think the load cell is actually working and I have a different problem.
Out of curiosity I held the +/- buttons again to see if anything had changed, and sure enough, the last number displayed has changed from 2.02 to 0.95. Again, no clue what that means, but something has definitely changed.
Out of curiosity I held the +/- buttons again to see if anything had changed, and sure enough, the last number displayed has changed from 2.02 to 0.95. Again, no clue what that means, but something has definitely changed.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IGZc9_gCqYrO5eNL5T74GXOcj5VhbMVJ/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IHzquka2FEZA1wS8zvH2qb0dBPphM802/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IKZLS-iXFuRV4axRn-x7rQPstjyjQK3y/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ILx9MC5lp_KY6rDEP8N71Zsfy3ndv8Hs/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1INauVZDDKznVHnHSBYstOvJzI4G0tBT9/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IHzquka2FEZA1wS8zvH2qb0dBPphM802/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IKZLS-iXFuRV4axRn-x7rQPstjyjQK3y/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ILx9MC5lp_KY6rDEP8N71Zsfy3ndv8Hs/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1INauVZDDKznVHnHSBYstOvJzI4G0tBT9/view?usp=drivesdk
@abllee2198 can you shed some light on the issue at hand. @Renboy confirmed that the motor, microswitches, and relay are working. I see in his third photo the master link came off the chain. Not sure if that is causing the issue. Sorry to bother you once again.