Sorry meant fourth photo
Babolat 3001 instructions
- Thread starter galicia2102
- Start date
If you have a multi meter: Set it to DC. look for the 2 pin header on the offset board (the small board with the 3 trimpots). Connect - to the lowest of the two pins, + on top.
Adjust the trimpot closest to the loadcell (no 1), until you read 0.9V. See if at that point you can engage the tension head again.
Adjust the trimpot closest to the loadcell (no 1), until you read 0.9V. See if at that point you can engage the tension head again.
Not sure I understand. There were two pins on that small circuit board that look like pins on a computer motherboard. With the machine powered up they were reading about 0.81v. On that main board there are 3 of those trimpot things, 2 right beside each other, and one on it's own. The one on its own is the one closest to the load cell, and that is the one I adjusted until the pinouts read as close to 0.9v as I could get it. I'll post pics of everything when the thermal camera gets here.
I'm not sure if a thermal cam is going to help you. It's not something I have in my aresenal of debug tools anyway. Just follow the path: The yellow button connects mechanically to a microswitch. is the microswitch working? Check with continuity meter. That switch will reach the main logic board (again, check continuity). It will, perhaps through some simple logic, trigger the relais (How do these signals read? Are the components in between getting their 5v power on their powerrails? Do you see a powerdrop if you engage the button, is a short pulling it down?
The relais will engage the motor. Check continuity etc etc, and so follow the whole process. Looking at randomly warming up components isn't going to tell you a great deal.
The relais will engage the motor. Check continuity etc etc, and so follow the whole process. Looking at randomly warming up components isn't going to tell you a great deal.
@jeronn something I learned in the past. If other components are extremely hot than others that can indicate a short circuit in the board.
I would also test for continuity on the flat cable that runs from the load cell connecting to the board. Up @Renboy how he wants to proceed. He can return the thermal cam if he decides not to use it
I would also test for continuity on the flat cable that runs from the load cell connecting to the board. Up @Renboy how he wants to proceed. He can return the thermal cam if he decides not to use it
The microswitch for the yellow button, and the two for the head movement all work, they were tested. And continuity for the microswitch wires was also tested. The two main ribbon cables coming off the main board were also tested. The main relay was tested, and the motor was tested. I don't know how to test the load cell properly, but when I put pressure on the head in either direction, the number on the display changes correspondingly with the amount of pressure placed on the tension head. To me this should be an indicator that the load cell is working.
Went home for lunch to test the load cell. I think the load cell is fine. I tested at the solder points on the board that the 4 load cell wires are soldered to and got something like 380ohms on two wires (red/blk) and 360ohms on the other two (green/yellow). But when I tested red/green, red/yellow, blk/green, and blk/yellow it was a consistent 280ohms in any of those cases. Furthermore, if I turn the machine on and physically push on the tension head in one direction, ON the display it shows a + weight that increases as I push harder. And if I push in the opposite direction, it shows a corresponding - weight. My thought is that the load cell is fine. There is something that is preventing the motor from engaging.
As an aside, you guys have been very helpful thus far and I thank you.
As an aside, you guys have been very helpful thus far and I thank you.
400
400
It's only the red/blk that is supposed to be close to 400ohms. Green/yellow should be in the 350ohm neighborhood based on the video you posted. But I don't know if those are hard fast numbers on every load cell, or just the one that the video was working with. The other 4 combinations weren't discussed in the video, I just checked them for the sake of curiosity.
As far as the motor, I hotwired it with a 12v motorcycle battery and it took 0.6amps to keep it moving in either direction. I'll pull the connector off it when I get home tonight and test to see if there's any power going to the connector when I push the yellow button, and if so, how much.
I would suggest to take it to someone with the tools and skills to debug electronics. Given that most easilly tested components seem to work (independently), it's time to get the scope or logic proble out to see if there's some issue with any of the (TTL) logic, or if the powerrails are giving dirty power etc etc. There are a ton of things that can be wrong at this point and can be a needle in a haystack, especially if you don't have the right diagnostic tools.
The motor can definitely be ruled out. When I push the yellow button, there is no voltage that goes to the motor. If I push the tension head by hand out of position (so the front microswitch doesn't have the slide/ramp pushing on it) and then turn the machine on, the motor WILL move the tension head to it's home position.
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@abllee2198 any thoughts on the cause of the tension head not moving?
1- WIth a scope check cleanness on all power rails
2- replace all EL caps, as they are 20+ years
3- check the relais in & out circuit
Your heat cam is showing that the voltage regulators are warming up - no surprise there. The transistor package on the offset board is also a regulator and well within it specs.
2- replace all EL caps, as they are 20+ years
3- check the relais in & out circuit
Your heat cam is showing that the voltage regulators are warming up - no surprise there. The transistor package on the offset board is also a regulator and well within it specs.
Hey renboy saw the thermal images last night. A majority of the parts on the main board need to be replaced. Too many hotspots especially on the transistors.
I forgot to ask you when you were resetting the offest to 0.90v did you hear any beeps? If not the main board is defective and needs to be replaced. The load cell should be fine for now.
I forgot to ask you when you were resetting the offest to 0.90v did you hear any beeps? If not the main board is defective and needs to be replaced. The load cell should be fine for now.
I can speak English, Czech, and a bit of Spanish, but what you just said is Greek to me. I think I've taken this as far as my skills permit.
Yes, and no. Before I used a multimeter to get it to 0.9v, I watched another video that showed a method where you keep turning that trimpot adjuster in opposing directions until the beeps get closer to each other. After I did that adjustment, the beeps have stopped. When I did it with the multimeter there wasn't a beep to be heard.
Given that new parts are no longer possible to find, it looks like it's going to an electronics repair place.
Sorry, but I strongly disagree. The voltage regulators should get warm and 42 degrees is nothing for them. There is a reason they have heat sinks /tabs . Their function is to provide accurate voltages on the powerrails and he should confirm their function and clean power without ripple by means of a scope. The restistors that are getting warm only means they are working hard - that confirms their function but may indicate a problem elsewhere down the line. Drawing a conclusion like you did, sorry, but that makes no sense at all.
Sorry to hear the machine is down 
All I can say is we did your best to get it back and running. If you decide to bring it to a electronics repair store; let us know the store you decide to bring the machine for repairs, and the outcome. There may be many people having similar issues.
All I can say is we did your best to get it back and running. If you decide to bring it to a electronics repair store; let us know the store you decide to bring the machine for repairs, and the outcome. There may be many people having similar issues.
Printed Circuit Boards (PCB) Inspection Using Infrared Camera | Workswell
Printed Circuit Board (PCB) Inspection via Thermal Imaging While the design and production of printed circuit boards (PCB) is a highly delicate process, it is very difficult to discover manufacturing defects or design imperfections in circuit boards. Traditional optical inspection methods are...
workswell-thermal-camera.com
Ugh...
If you have a component drawing extra current because it's broken, causing a pullup resstor down the line to heat up (while the resistor itself is simply working fine), please do enlighten me how exactly your heat photo is telling me what component is broken and why? How does your heat camera take into account the underlying cooporation of components?
Wouldn't it make more sense to actually check components and circuits for their actual correct functioning?
The only thing the pictures are saying is that some components that are warm, are component that are supposed to get warm (not hot, 42c isn't hot) and some others seem to be working hard without any conclusion on why. You can't even conclude they are broken, simply based on increased temperature. A lot of components will warm up when working.
If you have a component drawing extra current because it's broken, causing a pullup resstor down the line to heat up (while the resistor itself is simply working fine), please do enlighten me how exactly your heat photo is telling me what component is broken and why? How does your heat camera take into account the underlying cooporation of components?
Wouldn't it make more sense to actually check components and circuits for their actual correct functioning?
The only thing the pictures are saying is that some components that are warm, are component that are supposed to get warm (not hot, 42c isn't hot) and some others seem to be working hard without any conclusion on why. You can't even conclude they are broken, simply based on increased temperature. A lot of components will warm up when working.
Hey! Hope all is well. What’s seems to be the issue? I would recommend you try to adjust the offset as described on the article. I think @Renboy has a video that he can post for this procedure when he is free.
euchoulis
New User
Hey... I remember it was not pulling. I tried to open it and to adjust the potentiometer but I didn't find too many info then .
I will bring it out soon and will let you know .
Also we can cross check parts
No problem
Here is the link which may help get the machine going:Babolat 2501 e problem
I found a Babolat 2501e in decent condition to an extremely low price.. around 180 $. I knew though that it not worked but I bought it anyway and will see if I can bring it life. Have to check with you guys first if anyone know what can be the problem Whwn pressing the on button, The machine...
tt.tennis-warehouse.com
Areas to check are the switches, relay, and of course the load cell.
A quick update, the guy I dropped it off with seems to be having issue with it as well. He messaged me saying it was the load cell that was causing the issue, then a few hours later messaged me again saying it wasn't the load cell and he needed to diagnose further. In short, no resolution yet.
As for the offset adjustment, I don't remember where I watched a video for it. I'll see if I can find it again. There are two ways of checking it:l though:
1) pop the clearing plastic cap off the cover behind the tension head, hold yellow button and power on machine. Wait for 1 long beep followed by two short beeps, release yellow button. Now turn the trimpot until it the machine beeps, once it beeps, turn it in the opposite direction until it beeps. Keep doing this until you basically can't turn it in either direction.
2) and this is the better way in my opinion, get a multi meter, set it to DC and look for the 2 pin header on the offset board (the small board with the 3 trimpots). Connect - to the lowest of the two pins, + on top. Adjust the trimpot closest to the loadcell (no 1), until you read 0.9V. (Copied from jeroenn's post above).
As for the offset adjustment, I don't remember where I watched a video for it. I'll see if I can find it again. There are two ways of checking it:l though:
1) pop the clearing plastic cap off the cover behind the tension head, hold yellow button and power on machine. Wait for 1 long beep followed by two short beeps, release yellow button. Now turn the trimpot until it the machine beeps, once it beeps, turn it in the opposite direction until it beeps. Keep doing this until you basically can't turn it in either direction.
2) and this is the better way in my opinion, get a multi meter, set it to DC and look for the 2 pin header on the offset board (the small board with the 3 trimpots). Connect - to the lowest of the two pins, + on top. Adjust the trimpot closest to the loadcell (no 1), until you read 0.9V. (Copied from jeroenn's post above).
The 0.9v dc is the offset, which is set through potentiometer 1 (the one that sits on its own = Coarse Offset).
Then tension calibration is done with potentiometer 3 ( from the two together, the one nearest the edge of the board = Gain) and a spring calibrator (not a digitial one) & tension set to 60 pounds.
Reason for correctly setting 'offset'; when this one is out of bounds, its one of the possible reaons to get the 'beep' & not moving head.
The middle potentiometer is 'fine offset' for tiny adjustments to get to 0.9v but it's hardly ever needed.
The differences in voltages that a load cell gives off for measurements are tiny, everything is going through an amplifier. Offset is your zero load calibration point and gain being the actual calibration to that point.
Then tension calibration is done with potentiometer 3 ( from the two together, the one nearest the edge of the board = Gain) and a spring calibrator (not a digitial one) & tension set to 60 pounds.
Reason for correctly setting 'offset'; when this one is out of bounds, its one of the possible reaons to get the 'beep' & not moving head.
The middle potentiometer is 'fine offset' for tiny adjustments to get to 0.9v but it's hardly ever needed.
The differences in voltages that a load cell gives off for measurements are tiny, everything is going through an amplifier. Offset is your zero load calibration point and gain being the actual calibration to that point.