Thanks for the update! Seems this is a tough issue to get it back in running condition. Weird they didn’t mention any issues with the board. Cross my fingers they will get it back up and running
Babolat 3001 instructions
- Thread starter galicia2102
- Start date
Just had a throrough look at my board. It's a Z80 based board and it looks like they used the same mainboard for their complete range (star 4/ 3002 / 3002 etc etc), which makes sense as they use the same cell.
The Z80 cpu is a microcomputer from the 80's, very popular in home computers etc. I recognise a lot of components, bios, clock etc. Given that your machine was able to function in every way, except for moving the head, that suggest that the cpu is running. Your repair man can easilly double check this by checking for activity on the various address lines. The board has dedicated sections for driving various parts of the machine, based on executions by the cpu. These driving parts are partly not used in your machine (you don't have automatic clamps, a head-riser etc) - but your board is populated for these functions. That makes it somewhat complexer than it should be, but I suppose for Babolat it was easier / cheaper to design just one board for all.
So if the CPU is running, then the relais and its controlling logic or the LT1014 on the offset board are highly suspect. I think there was someone posting on here with a broken LT0114. Thankfully these are still available.
If the machine gets repaired, it would make sense to have the relais as well as all the el capacitors replaced, just because they are aging - I guess the machine is close to 30 years old by now.
Incidently, the components that are warm on your board, are warm on my board as well.
The Z80 cpu is a microcomputer from the 80's, very popular in home computers etc. I recognise a lot of components, bios, clock etc. Given that your machine was able to function in every way, except for moving the head, that suggest that the cpu is running. Your repair man can easilly double check this by checking for activity on the various address lines. The board has dedicated sections for driving various parts of the machine, based on executions by the cpu. These driving parts are partly not used in your machine (you don't have automatic clamps, a head-riser etc) - but your board is populated for these functions. That makes it somewhat complexer than it should be, but I suppose for Babolat it was easier / cheaper to design just one board for all.
So if the CPU is running, then the relais and its controlling logic or the LT1014 on the offset board are highly suspect. I think there was someone posting on here with a broken LT0114. Thankfully these are still available.
If the machine gets repaired, it would make sense to have the relais as well as all the el capacitors replaced, just because they are aging - I guess the machine is close to 30 years old by now.
Incidently, the components that are warm on your board, are warm on my board as well.
Giravail
New User
I have also a 3001 machine (1989) and the LT1014 was replaced by the previous owner... This component seems to be a weak point.
Thankfully, neither the offset board or the main board is using any propriatary components so unless they burn up completely, whatever component has borked can be gotten easilly. The only active component on the offset board is the LT0114 which is a few dollars and readilly available. The mainboard is basically a Z80 computer with control logic and memory, all of which are still available in their used form factor. The only propriatary 'part' is the software in the EPROM. I have an eprom burner/reader so I can easilly copy any of mine.
That's a pitty. Is it already sold? If not, my offer still stands.
Thanks, but it's gone. To be honest, I almost exclusively only strung squash racquets, and covid restrictions here basically killed squash. To this day there are a lot of players that haven't returned. I was hardly stringing any racquets anymore so it was a reasonable time to end.
Again, thanks all. Unfortunately, the outcome of my situation was of no help to anyone.
Hello everyone.
I am Ümit Güngör from Turkey. I am an electronics repairman.
I have a defective babolat 3370. Pressing the yellow button makes a bib sound but does not move.
I followed the calibration steps in the topic, but I could not reach a result. I took the job a little more seriously and drew the schematic of the loadcell circuit. I left it below.
There are test point points on the diagram.
There are markings indicating the same points on the photo of the back surface of the circuit.
I request from you:
If you have one of the employees of this machine, can you please measure how many volts there are at these points with a multimeter and answer me?
When measuring, the black probe of the multimeter should always be where it says gnd. Based on this information, I'll look elsewhere to see if there's a bug. I will let you know the result.
If you can help I would be very grateful and I can send some of the processor side of the schematic as well.
By the way, the original schematic of the device I drew is different from the example schematic taken from the AD7772 datasheet sent by @emo_168.
#200 jeroenn
Do you happen to know if the calibration for a Babolat 2502 differs from the one for the 3001?
The three potentiometers and circuit board look alike.
Reset of the offset worked fine and tension head now pulls tension (about twice the reference tension though) voltage on pot 1 reads 0,9.
By adjusting pot 3 I‘m trying to calibrate, but there are no changes when I pull tension again.
Any ideas what I need to do?
Thanks for you help
Do you happen to know if the calibration for a Babolat 2502 differs from the one for the 3001?
The three potentiometers and circuit board look alike.
Reset of the offset worked fine and tension head now pulls tension (about twice the reference tension though) voltage on pot 1 reads 0,9.
By adjusting pot 3 I‘m trying to calibrate, but there are no changes when I pull tension again.
Any ideas what I need to do?
Thanks for you help
Sorry to say it sounds like your loadcell is on its last legs.
If you don't get any difference by adjusting the gain pot (the most left one - also the left one of the group of two), then you're just probably pulling max tension.
Maybe the pot itself is borked, maybe the amplifier, but usually it's the cell.
Thanks for the quick reply.
By changing the reference tension I get differences but it is always more than it is supposed to be.
I do, that is how I checked the voltage on the two small pins. I can also adjust the voltage.
I would try the following:
- Check the power rail that you have a neat 5v. (pin 4 of the LT1014 for example. You also should have a negative power on pin 11 (V-)
- check if the trimpots are actually working. Meassure resistance, i think it's a 200Kohm. In circuit the values can be off due to other nearby components, but you should meassure somethign and see a diff after adjusting.
If these check out, then you want to see if you can test the LT1014. It's supposd to amplify the small variations generated by the loadcell. I don't have any schematics of the offset board, so you'll need to see how the strain gauges connect. When under load, there should be output on the outputs of the opamp. See the spec sheet for details: https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/LT1013-LT1014.pdf
Thank you so much, I appreciate your help.
That is going to keep me busy for a some time.
Mr. Thinking
New User
Finally, I completed the new circuit design. My machine works perfectly.
Last edited:
@Mr. Thinking
Great that you got it working.
So when mine goes down, I can send you the tension head, and you can repair that.
Great that you got it working.
So when mine goes down, I can send you the tension head, and you can repair that.