Babolat Stringing

OKUSA

Hall of Fame
First time stringer here, I'm trying to string a Babolat Aeropro Drive Cortex racquet and I'm using one piece as less knots seem less complicated. Anyways, it says to skip the 8H and 8T holes for the crosses when you're doing the mains, so I did.

But when I go to do the crosses (says to start at 8H), the long end is on the bottom of the racquet and I have my 16 mains already (16x19), what now, did I do something wrong? I already cut off the short side and tied the knot, so I don't know what to do.

I looked at the stringing instructions on the babolat site and it confuses me, I think they have a 2-piece guide on there since they have a string going from 6t to 7t and 9t to 6t (I guess for a knot) ?
 
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D

decades

Guest
what says to start at 8h? it sounds like you needed to do ATW pattern otherwise you need to start your crosses at the bottom where the mains finished.

for any newbies out there stringing your first stick...do a two piece until you know what you are doing!
 
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OKUSA

Hall of Fame
yeah, i figured i would just do a two piece since I messed that up. ended up breaking the string tying the knot on the other side haha. there goes half a string

the klippermate guide said to start at 8H (head) or 8T (top), getting confusing

think i'll give it another go tomorrow, spent 3 hours just doing the mains (first time through I had the tension all messed up), did it again with the right tension but spent an hour trying to figure out what i did wrong.

i still don't see how you can do 16 mains but then do crosses at the top when both sides end at the bottom. maybe klippermate messed up. it didn't have the cortex version so i used the aeropro drive gt, which I assume is the same stringing pattern
 
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equinox

Hall of Fame
Choices.

Just back out and redo it properly..

or tie off the otherside main. string the crosses top - bottom, now a 2pc. :)

You do have more string right??
 

OKUSA

Hall of Fame
guess i should've paid more attention to the beginning, says that some racquets can't be strung with a 1 piece technique if the mains end up at the bottom which forces you to string the crosses from the bottom. which can damage the frame
 

jim e

Legend
guess i should've paid more attention to the beginning, says that some racquets can't be strung with a 1 piece technique if the mains end up at the bottom which forces you to string the crosses from the bottom. which can damage the frame
That racquet can be strung as one piece and strung bottom up. The official USRSA site digest has the cross strings starting at 8T (throat).
For 1 pc.
Start M;s:T
Main skips:8T & 8H
Tie off M;s:6T
Start X:8T
Last X:8H
Tie X:7H
(H=Head , T=Throat)
The above is the USRSA listing for your racquet to string as 1 pc.

If you string it 2 pc. you start at 8H, and then last X is 8T. Tie off X's:7H & 10T.As stringing top own places less stress on the racquet.
Your racquet can be strung 1 pc. bottom up.
I normally do string most racquets as 2 pc, stringing cross strings top down, or if 1 pc. I use an ATW so crosses are still strung top down, but is is acceptable to string your racquet bottom up, as it was designed to take that extra stress while stringing.
With all the popularity of hybrids, and a # of racquets where the manuf. specifies 2 pc.(like Head, Prince, and Yonex), I normally string most racquets as 2 piece any more. That way every thing is uniform, and the customers get the same results each time.
 
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OKUSA

Hall of Fame
so i just strung the whole thing with 2 pieces, took about 2 and half hours with about 2 hours weaving. my fingers hurt, my technique is probably horrid haha

i was also surprised i had to clean the tension jaws on my klippermate about 3/4 way through weaving. i was stringing with PHT, so maybe that's to blame

also, the outermost strings seem to move real easily is this normal? the next string in is pretty tight and then all the other strings don't move at all, so the tension seems right on the strings that matter at least
 

dancraig

Hall of Fame
so i just strung the whole thing with 2 pieces, took about 2 and half hours with about 2 hours weaving. my fingers hurt, my technique is probably horrid haha

i was also surprised i had to clean the tension jaws on my klippermate about 3/4 way through weaving. i was stringing with PHT, so maybe that's to blame

also, the outermost strings seem to move real easily is this normal? the next string in is pretty tight and then all the other strings don't move at all, so the tension seems right on the strings that matter at least
You might have lost a little tension on the outside mains when you tied off. That's normal, especially for a beginner. The outside mains can "seem" looser because they don't have a string on both sides, like all the other mains, locking it in place. So it moves around more easily even if the tension is OK.
 

Lakers4Life

Hall of Fame
First time stringer here, I'm trying to string a Babolat Aeropro Drive Cortex racquet and I'm using one piece as less knots seem less complicated. Anyways, it says to skip the 8H and 8T holes for the crosses when you're doing the mains, so I did.

But when I go to do the crosses (says to start at 8H), the long end is on the bottom of the racquet and I have my 16 mains already (16x19), what now, did I do something wrong? I already cut off the short side and tied the knot, so I don't know what to do.

I looked at the stringing instructions on the babolat site and it confuses me, I think they have a 2-piece guide on there since they have a string going from 6t to 7t and 9t to 6t (I guess for a knot) ?

I had the same problem when I first strung a APDC. For a one piece job, tie off the short side. Then on the long side, you will notice the solid line (19 and 20) in the diagram. That's for the change over from mains to crosses. Babolats don't require stringing from top to bottom or head to throat. In the one piece pattern you can string from the throat/bottom to the head/top. The dotted lines are the tie offs for 2 piece jobs, in which you would start at the top/head and finish on the bottom/throat.

Here is the diagram just in case, and for other readers: http://www.babolat.com/media/tennis/stringing_pattern/Aeropro_Drive.pdf
 
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dgdawg

Semi-Pro
For whats it's worth.......I know others don't feel the same about this but, I personally never string bottom up. I know some patterns/frames "allow" it, but it just doesn't feel right to me. If your crosses start @ the T, just leave out the last M. If the pattern is an odd number of crosses, skip the first cross and start on the second. Finish the X's, weave the last main, then the last X. If the pattern is an even no. of X's, skip the last M and start X's in the first X grommet. It sounds confusing in words but it's really not.
 

Nellie

Hall of Fame
To string one-piece and not go from the bottom up, you have to do an around the world pattern (easy to find with the search).

I have strung my babolat aeropros many times from the bottom up without problems, but I would suggest going to a two piece string - once you tie a couple of knots, it is much easier than pulling the extra string for the mains.

OP - poly strings are much harder on the fingers to weave. Also, it is pretty easy to kink/ruin the expensive poly. As a beginner, you may want some practice with cheap nylon for friends
 

mikeler

Moderator
To string one-piece and not go from the bottom up, you have to do an around the world pattern (easy to find with the search).

I have strung my babolat aeropros many times from the bottom up without problems, but I would suggest going to a two piece string - once you tie a couple of knots, it is much easier than pulling the extra string for the mains.

OP - poly strings are much harder on the fingers to weave. Also, it is pretty easy to kink/ruin the expensive poly. As a beginner, you may want some practice with cheap nylon for friends

Yep, poly is not easy. Cheap string is a must for your first 10 jobs! Jim e recommended I try to string my crosses top down on my Babolat PSTs and so far the racket is holding up just fine.
 
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