Thanks dd. The fixed clamps are working fine. I may ask Mark how to fix them up. I'll take your advice on them being preferable to any flying clamps. Thanks for saving me $100+.
LF Clamps are very good for floaters, that's to be sure. I'd R&R, but LF clamps aren't necessarily a bad tool to have on hand. :twisted:
I wanted to report back after my first couple of jobs and give feedback on the change from my x-2 to the x-st.
Likes
- I like the lockout mechanism, slightly faster and gives very consistent results.
- Fixed clamps are great, thought I would not like the wing nut style system, but it doesn't really bother me at all.
Dislikes
- 6 pt mounting system.. I have to say that this has been the biggest issue slowing me down. Don't have as much room to work with when stringing the crosses and also setting it so that no grommet holes are blocked has proven challenging. I like the ease of actually mounting the racket, but the system definitely slows me down in comparison to the 2 point on the older machine once I get going.
Good to hear. The Wing Nut style is A-OK. They're perfectly functional, just cumbersome to work with since they're uncomfortable to crank/release. I wouldn't want to work with them for an entire day, but job-to-job, no problems.
Look at my post above on adjustments, report back once you've tried that method. Proper planning and prep is key, here.
You should be able to avoid the blocked holes without too much trouble once you learn to use the 6 and 12 supports. Moving the 6 / 12 supports out moves the frame farther from the standard / side supports. Adjust the side supports so they are close to the frame but not touching. Position the frame so a grommet holes are just covered up by the side supports so the string will be pulled without touching the side support and adjust the 6 / 12 supports so they are centered on the frame. Then adjust your side supports.
You can have your support billiards sized/adjusted so this never becomes easy. Don't be afraid to move the supports! This is not really a possibility if you have one of the newer turn tables that adjust both supports simultaneously, however. I also go a step further -- I always ensure that my 6/12 are adjusted very far out into "space." The tip and throat are always far away from the 6/12 "pads." This allows for a lot of extra space for your clamps when you're working with frames with very high (or low) outside crosses. The nTour series comes to mind.
I've upgraded to the V shaped mounts on my 6004 but i never really had a problem with the old mounts. I think this is an overblown issue, I never had a "blocked" grommet i couldn't work around although the V-mounts do make it easier.
It's accurately "blown" (IMO) - you only need to have a blocked CAPS grommet once to jump fully onboard the complain-train
It gets worse when you have a blocked hole and are working with a very soft string AND you can't control the angle of approach with that said soft string. V mounts are (IMHO again) completely superior mounts. The only reason companies weren't using them before is because of a long-standing Babolat patent that expired.