Bike tire

pkshooter

Semi-Pro
Sorry if I got the name wrong, but I'm talking about the thick rubber dread part. A nice little thorn pushed through it and popped my tube. So now I patched up my tube and am wondering do I have to buy a new tire? I was thinking of putting lead tape and another little rubber patch to cover the hole.
 
Lead tape!!! The last thing you want to do is create radial assymetry of weight. Patch the tube, don't worry about the tire unless the hole is gaping, in which case the tire should be replaced.
 
I recently patched two tires with Gorilla superglue and nothing more. Works like a charm! Their brand of superglue has rubber particles in it and is flexible and not brittle.
 
Sorry if I got the name wrong, but I'm talking about the thick rubber dread part. A nice little thorn pushed through it and popped my tube. So now I patched up my tube and am wondering do I have to buy a new tire? I was thinking of putting lead tape and another little rubber patch to cover the hole.

How big is the hole? Unless the inner tube is showing through the hole, you need not worry about it. If you are worried, a small piece of duct tape on the inside is fine. Lead tape may cause the wheel to feel strange if the weight is too much.

When there are holes or small tears in the sidewall, you can use a dollar bill or leaf to keep the inner tube in place. It's enough to get home. Some folks take old tires and cut a small piece to keep in their bag for the same purpose.

Also, you should always put your best tire in the front. If you have a flat or blowout in the front, you can easily lose control (can't steer) and crash. Thankfully, most flats happen in the back (where the weight is). wears
 
Interesting....
I used two 20 dollar bills, didn't have a ONE, to repair a sidewall blowout 1.3" in length.
I almost always get my flat in the front. That wheels hits the sharp object first. I do get 4-8 flats a year.
Yes, best tire in front.
Pull out the thorn.
I'll remember Gorilla superglue.
 
They're made round, oval, rectangular, square, but one thing they all have in common is that any sharp corners are rounded off.
 
I've had pieces of broken glass go in all the time. I just took it to the shop every time and they always just replace the tube, not the tire.
 
Tube liners resist thorns, like you'd get mountain biking in the deserts.
But on road bikes, you can feel the extra drag, the resistance to acceleration, and the momentum it keeps when trying to brake for whatever reasons.
I guess it's better than spending 10 minutes to fix our flats, or replace the tube. Actual work might be 4 minutes, but ya gotta slow the heartbeat to concentrate on the task, wipe your hands clean, and look for friendly rider's to talk to.
 
Tube liners resist thorns, like you'd get mountain biking in the deserts.
But on road bikes, you can feel the extra drag, the resistance to acceleration, and the momentum it keeps when trying to brake for whatever reasons.
I guess it's better than spending 10 minutes to fix our flats, or replace the tube. Actual work might be 4 minutes, but ya gotta slow the heartbeat to concentrate on the task, wipe your hands clean, and look for friendly rider's to talk to.

Could they produce a road tire with graphite layered into the tire, or a tubeless tire that is same weight as a regular tire?
 
The other choice is going tubeless and sealant. The sealant will fix small holes quickly and you can still install a tube, if necessary. You can convert a standard wheelset with a Stan's No Tubes kit, or buy 2-way fit tubeless wheels. Unfortunately, the number of tires for tubeless is a bit limited.

I don't get many flats, but I would use them in a places where thorns are prevalent.

Other benefits from tubeless: can run lower tire pressure for more comfort and no pinch flats (inner tube gets a hole from being pinched against the rim if the tire pressure is too low).

Cons: harder to put on tubeless tires, sealant can be messy if you need to install a tube.
 
I used to use Specialized k4 touring tires, on my Cannondaler500. They weighed a ton.
Now use GatorSkin tires, and they weigh a lot too. Gave up on tubeless tires by the mid '70's, just too many hard to fix flats.
 
I've found that cheap Chinese inner tubes are to be avoided; don't buy the inner tubes from Wal-Mart. Pay more and get something that works.
 
In my experience as a pedicab driver, "down time is dumb time"! To avoid flats, my best solution is thornproof tubes. They cost twice as much but last 5x or more than standard tubes. Liners are not as reliable...the first time I used one, I flatted on my second night out. The other way to go is a more durable tire such as the Specialized Armadillo but they are quite expensive.
 
GatorSkins are around 55 bucks. Is that expensive?
One in 10 flats, I go thru the sidewall, so the Tuffy's don't work against those.
I"m already giving up around 6 lbs. to all my peers, in bike weight. Don't wanna add any more of a handicap than that.
 
GatorSkins are around 55 bucks. Is that expensive?
One in 10 flats, I go thru the sidewall, so the Tuffy's don't work against those.
I"m already giving up around 6 lbs. to all my peers, in bike weight. Don't wanna add any more of a handicap than that.

Side comment.

I ride basically for the exercise and the enjoyment of being outdoors. My bike weighs a ton, but I don't mize about if this adds more weight or not.

Just my 2 cents.
 
I happen to live about 5 miles into the most popular training ride for racers and cyclocross riders looking for a 50 mile loop to get into shape. It's almost close to cyclocross season, so those guys are out in force training mostly with sub 16 lbs road bikes.
My g/f rides a 14 lbs'er, she was a Cat111 rider, getting shop and frame sponsorships (until she met me, a old injured fart).
I'm on a Caad8, a 20 lbs lead sled with lights aboard. I"m by far the weakest rider, barely hanging on 40 miles in 2.5 hours, mostly hills. I don't need to lead all the way, but it's nice to be able to keep up somewhat.
 
I wonder what the recommended time is before I should change my tires.. I have around 450 miles on them.

Check to see if there is any underlying casing showing through the rubber and if there are no tears in the sidewall. Some bike tires have tread that can show the wear; even if the tread is gone but no casing is showing, they're ok. Treads on bike tires does nothing for grip, as the weight of the bike/rider is not enough to displace water through a tread pattern like a car.

My favorite non-racing tire is the Rivendell Rolly Poly and the Rivendell Ruffy Tuffy. If you do a web search for reviews, they are universally liked - supple, round profile for comfortable ride, yet fairly lightweight. I put these on my town and cyclocross bikes (when I don' t use knobby cross tires).

If you want good lightweight racing tires, I use 700x23 in the front and 700x25 in the rear. I like the Bontrager R4, Michelon Pro Race 4 and Schwalbe Ultremo ZX tires - I have a set of each on my road bikes.
 
Putting a 700x28 tire on my Caad8 is like shodding a high school track athlete with Redwing boots with steel toes.
That said, I should have bought 25's for the front, keeping the 23's out back. I"m a hack bike rider, don't need instant input, and comfort might be more important than quickness and agility.
Still, have had only one rear flat ever, and maybe 20 front flats since 1966.
 
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