CLASH 100 VS CLASH 100 TOUR

WNB93

Semi-Pro
Hi everyone,

I've hit for a bit with both Clash 100 first and found it too light.
Then I hit with the 100 Tour yesterday and it felt pretty good, yet a tiny bit less maneuverable. I found myself be late on some balls, although it might just be my tiredness on that particular day.
I currently own and play with a 2016 Pure Aero at 300g (thinking of switching due to both wrists, elbows and shoulders being sore for the next 2-3 days after hitting with it. Better technique=stronger hits=more pain. With the Clash I do not have such pain even though I framed a few more shots than usual).
The 100 clash is 295g and 100 Tour is 310g.

I am leaning towards the 100 Tour since I like it as it but my worry is that in a match I might get tired way quicker than with my 300g PA. I am a 3.0 player on most days, 190cm at 76kgs so not the strongest guy around, 26 yrs.

So my question is, should I get the 100 and modify it to my liking with lead tape or get the 100 Tour and leave it stock?

Thanks for your suggestions!

P.S.: On the weekend Ill also test the new Head Gravity 360+ MP
 

hurworld

Hall of Fame
Hi everyone,

I've hit for a bit with both Clash 100 first and found it too light.
Then I hit with the 100 Tour yesterday and it felt pretty good, yet a tiny bit less maneuverable. I found myself be late on some balls, although it might just be my tiredness on that particular day.
I currently own and play with a 2016 Pure Aero at 300g (thinking of switching due to both wrists, elbows and shoulders being sore for the next 2-3 days after hitting with it. Better technique=stronger hits=more pain. With the Clash I do not have such pain even though I framed a few more shots than usual).
The 100 clash is 295g and 100 Tour is 310g.

I am leaning towards the 100 Tour since I like it as it but my worry is that in a match I might get tired way quicker than with my 300g PA. I am a 3.0 player on most days, 190cm at 76kgs so not the strongest guy around, 26 yrs.

So my question is, should I get the 100 and modify it to my liking with lead tape or get the 100 Tour and leave it stock?

Thanks for your suggestions!

P.S.: On the weekend Ill also test the new Head Gravity 360+ MP
Get the Clash 98 instead of the Tour, and play it stock.
 
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WNB93

Semi-Pro
Get the Clash 98 instead of the Tour, and play it stock.

Why do you recommend that? I am used too 100inch heads and also the trend nowadays i towards bigger racket head sizes as far as I can see...
I play semi-western with a pretty decent amount of spin.
 

hurworld

Hall of Fame
Why do you recommend that? I am used too 100inch heads and also the trend nowadays i towards bigger racket head sizes as far as I can see...
I play semi-western with a pretty decent amount of spin.

98 sq in isn't that much smaller than 100 sq in. The Clash 98 is a better racquet than the tour IMO. I have demo-ed the Tour version and while the power and spin were good, I didn't feel I had as much control and felt disconnected from the ball. The 98 is a racquet you can grow into as you improve, IMO. Train yourself to hit in the sweetspot all or most of the time. The maneuverability of the 98 is a big plus too.

Don't take my word for it, demo it and see how you feel.
 

speedysteve

Legend
Yes, the PA is stock.
Where can I get Blue-Tack in europe?
Everywhere, try Blu tack [emoji6]

Personally I would not use it.
You have to block the handle frame tubes with something like cotton wool shoved up (does that stay there?), otherwise when it goes soft on warm temperatures (summer) it migrates up the frame [emoji2957]

Better get a racquet designed for comfort.
Clash, Völkl and others
 

1HBHfanatic

Legend
the w.clash.100 is a good racquet, 11oz,
it can be modified if you need to
you can always add weight to a light racquet, not as easy to take weight off
lead tape is easy to add/remove, cost $5 a pack, small amounts is all you need
 

babar

Professional
I recently tried all the Clash frames and really liked the "feel" and "response" I got on the 98, 100, and 100T.

I decided on the 100 and did feel it was too light in stock form.
I put a Wilson leather grip on it, some head tape all along the bumper guard and a Wilson Profile overgrip.
Strung with ALU Power 17g at 48 lbs.

Made the racquet feel super stable, easy to maneuver, and I love the feel of the tacky Profile grip over the hard leather grip.
Doesn't diminish the comfort of the frame at all for me.

I'm a USTA 4.5 player and play an all-court game. Had some shoulder issues in the past, which is why I was trying to find lighter frames to replace my old Wilson 6.1s.
All the lighter frames felt like rocket launchers to me until I tried the new Speed/Speed Pro and new Clash line. The "feel" on the Clash was just better for me so I switched.

Also, Wilson's website has a customization portal for the Clash and other frames if you want to check it out.
I've only had my Clash a few weeks and the paint has already chipped in multiple places and I am very careful with my frames.
Thinking about getting one with the glossy paint in all black or white. . .
 

WNB93

Semi-Pro
I recently tried all the Clash frames and really liked the "feel" and "response" I got on the 98, 100, and 100T.

I decided on the 100 and did feel it was too light in stock form.
I put a Wilson leather grip on it, some head tape all along the bumper guard and a Wilson Profile overgrip.
Strung with ALU Power 17g at 48 lbs.

Made the racquet feel super stable, easy to maneuver, and I love the feel of the tacky Profile grip over the hard leather grip.
Doesn't diminish the comfort of the frame at all for me.

I'm a USTA 4.5 player and play an all-court game. Had some shoulder issues in the past, which is why I was trying to find lighter frames to replace my old Wilson 6.1s.
All the lighter frames felt like rocket launchers to me until I tried the new Speed/Speed Pro and new Clash line. The "feel" on the Clash was just better for me so I switched.

Also, Wilson's website has a customization portal for the Clash and other frames if you want to check it out.
I've only had my Clash a few weeks and the paint has already chipped in multiple places and I am very careful with my frames.
Thinking about getting one with the glossy paint in all black or white. . .

Yeah the test one is also chipped some. Not too bad though.
I might get a custom one when I am in the US next or my brother comes visit home. I’d love to have one in all black gloss or something

My arms are finally not aching after 2 weeks now that I played with the clash yesterday.

Does lead tape inside the handle work just as well as a leather grip? Seems like lead will be easier to add/remove.
 

babar

Professional
I never tried putting lead tape on the Clash.
The leather grip for me was to add weight to the handle but also to enhance the feel for me.
I prefer that over lead tape, but I imagine lead tape would still enhance the headlight feel.

I do love the feel of the Clash and that my arm doesn't feel sore afterward.
 

WNB93

Semi-Pro
I never tried putting lead tape on the Clash.
The leather grip for me was to add weight to the handle but also to enhance the feel for me.
I prefer that over lead tape, but I imagine lead tape would still enhance the headlight feel.

I do love the feel of the Clash and that my arm doesn't feel sore afterward.

I shall try and see. Maybe some silicone.

Yeah, I prefer how the PA feels. I can hit things I couldnt with the clash. But is it worth tearing my arms apart? Not too sure...
 

time_fly

Hall of Fame
So my question is, should I get the 100 and modify it to my liking with lead tape or get the 100 Tour and leave it stock?

I would get the 100 and modify it. I have played all three Clashes (98, 100, 100 Tour) out of curiosity, although I never stuck with any of them long term. The 100 and 100 Tour have much easier access to spin because the main strings are spaced wider than the 98. The 100 has easier access to racquet head speed without giving up much stability compared to the Tour, so I think it’s better to start there and add a little weight if you feel like you need it.
 

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
Hi everyone,

I've hit for a bit with both Clash 100 first and found it too light.
Then I hit with the 100 Tour yesterday and it felt pretty good, yet a tiny bit less maneuverable. I found myself be late on some balls, although it might just be my tiredness on that particular day.
I currently own and play with a 2016 Pure Aero at 300g (thinking of switching due to both wrists, elbows and shoulders being sore for the next 2-3 days after hitting with it. Better technique=stronger hits=more pain. With the Clash I do not have such pain even though I framed a few more shots than usual).
The 100 clash is 295g and 100 Tour is 310g.

I am leaning towards the 100 Tour since I like it as it but my worry is that in a match I might get tired way quicker than with my 300g PA. I am a 3.0 player on most days, 190cm at 76kgs so not the strongest guy around, 26 yrs.

So my question is, should I get the 100 and modify it to my liking with lead tape or get the 100 Tour and leave it stock?

Thanks for your suggestions!

P.S.: On the weekend Ill also test the new Head Gravity 360+ MP
Clash 100 + lead
 

WNB93

Semi-Pro
Thanks for the suggestions guys! Think I know which way to go. My coach suggested the same thing.
 
Personally I would not use it.
You have to block the handle frame tubes with something like cotton wool shoved up (does that stay there?), otherwise when it goes soft on warm temperatures (summer) it migrates up the frame
emoji2957.png

We have been using Blue Tack in the handles AND on the hoops for several years over several Australian Summers. It does not get soft, and it does not migrate up the frame. Never needed to use cotton wool as a barrier.

If there is any concern, you just replace it at the start of every Summer. But as I said, we have never had a problem. (I have also experimented with sticking it to the inside of the hoop at various points. It stays on the racquet without any problem. I am talking about the blue coloured Bostik product not the imitators.)

Lead tape inside the handle, or wrapped around the grip does not provide the same advantages as Blue Tack. The Blue Tack provides some impact shock absorption. Although, I guess one could use a combination of lead tape and Blue Tack. I've never bothered.

NEVER USE SILICONE unless you are happy to make the change permanent. Test with Blue-Tack first. Once you are happy with the quantity of added mass, weigh up the same amount of silicone and inject it into the inside of the handle. Once it is in there, it will be very difficult to remove all of it. Some suggest wrapping it in plastic wrap and placing it inside the handle. Might work if you can adhere the packets so that they don't move about.
 

WNB93

Semi-Pro
We have been using Blue Tack in the handles AND on the hoops for several years over several Australian Summers. It does not get soft, and it does not migrate up the frame. Never needed to use cotton wool as a barrier.

If there is any concern, you just replace it at the start of every Summer. But as I said, we have never had a problem. (I have also experimented with sticking it to the inside of the hoop at various points. It stays on the racquet without any problem. I am talking about the blue coloured Bostik product not the imitators.)

Lead tape inside the handle, or wrapped around the grip does not provide the same advantages as Blue Tack. The Blue Tack provides some impact shock absorption. Although, I guess one could use a combination of lead tape and Blue Tack. I've never bothered.

NEVER USE SILICONE unless you are happy to make the change permanent. Test with Blue-Tack first. Once you are happy with the quantity of added mass, weigh up the same amount of silicone and inject it into the inside of the handle. Once it is in there, it will be very difficult to remove all of it. Some suggest wrapping it in plastic wrap and placing it inside the handle. Might work if you can adhere the packets so that they don't move about.

Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking of lead tape in the handle of the Clash. I am sure the Clash does not need further shock absorption.

And yeah the silicone packets might be annoying with the mass shifting all over the place. Not sure that would be a good idea tbh.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking of lead tape in the handle of the Clash. I am sure the Clash does not need further shock absorption.

Should not be a problem putting lead tape inside the handle of a clash with regards to comfort and feel.

Just make sure that if you do put lead tape in there that you distribute it evenly - stating the obvious - so that the handle is still evenly balanced.
 

WNB93

Semi-Pro
Should not be a problem putting lead tape inside the handle of a clash with regards to comfort and feel.

Just make sure that if you do put lead tape in there that you distribute it evenly - stating the obvious - so that the handle is still evenly balanced.
Yeah that is one my concerns with lead tape inside the handle...i should put it all around the handle evenly right? 4 sides equally?
 

BretH

Semi-Pro
I can't see how a slight weight imbalance in the handle could ever be felt much less affect one's game. I use a small fishing weight cushioned in foam and tape in one hollow and that works just fine.
 

WNB93

Semi-Pro
I can't see how a slight weight imbalance in the handle could ever be felt much less affect one's game. I use a small fishing weight cushioned in foam and tape in one hollow and that works just fine.

Might be a good solution indeed. Stuff it in foam and then it should stay put.
 

time_fly

Hall of Fame
Yeah that is one my concerns with lead tape inside the handle...i should put it all around the handle evenly right? 4 sides equally?

Wait, you’re putting lead in the handle? The Clash is already very head light relative to its static weight. I would put some lead on the hoop as well.
 

WNB93

Semi-Pro
Wait, you’re putting lead in the handle? The Clash is already very head light relative to its static weight. I would put some lead on the hoop as well.
I am not. I dont even have the racket yet. I am just looking at options. I am not sure 10g’s in the hoop alone will work. Would probably jave to balance it out a bit?
 
Yeah that is one my concerns with lead tape inside the handle...i should put it all around the handle evenly right? 4 sides equally?

Imho, you wouldn't have to go over the top with it. It doesn't have to be perfectly distributed. Just don't put all the tape on one side. You will notice a difference in the feel of the racquet if you put it all on one side, especially if you spin the stick a lot.

Putting 10grams at the end of the handle, near the butt-cap will add about 3 to 4 points of HL Balance. That would bring the stock Clash 100 to about 11 Points Head Light. So you might also consider putting a couple of grams at 3 and 9 to manage that.
 

alpenglo

Rookie
I recently tried all the Clash frames and really liked the "feel" and "response" I got on the 98, 100, and 100T.

I decided on the 100 and did feel it was too light in stock form.
I put a Wilson leather grip on it, some head tape all along the bumper guard and a Wilson Profile overgrip.
Strung with ALU Power 17g at 48 lbs.

Made the racquet feel super stable, easy to maneuver, and I love the feel of the tacky Profile grip over the hard leather grip.
Doesn't diminish the comfort of the frame at all for me.

I'm a USTA 4.5 player and play an all-court game. Had some shoulder issues in the past, which is why I was trying to find lighter frames to replace my old Wilson 6.1s.
All the lighter frames felt like rocket launchers to me until I tried the new Speed/Speed Pro and new Clash line. The "feel" on the Clash was just better for me so I switched.

Also, Wilson's website has a customization portal for the Clash and other frames if you want to check it out.
I've only had my Clash a few weeks and the paint has already chipped in multiple places and I am very careful with my frames.
Thinking about getting one with the glossy paint in all black or white. . .

I also play with a weighted-up Clash 100, albeit at a lower level than you (I'm a lowly 3.5). I find it's missing a little feel compared to my old IG Prestige Pro, but I'm not all that much of a touch player, so that's okay for now. What's less okay is the erratic stringbed (the string pattern is asymmetric with much wider spacing in the lower 1/3 than in the upper 1/3, so this isn't surprising). Have you not had difficulties with this? Or perhaps you hit the center of the racquet more consistently than I do!
 

alpenglo

Rookie
I can't see how a slight weight imbalance in the handle could ever be felt much less affect one's game. I use a small fishing weight cushioned in foam and tape in one hollow and that works just fine.

For just a few grams, I've hot-melt-glued a couple of pennies into the butt cap (2 pennies is about 9 grams). Works like a charm and is easily removable.
 
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