Dampening vibrations - Silicone or foam (or other) in handle?

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
I have a racquet which produces a lot of high frequency vibrations at contact, which lead to discomfort for me, so I want to add something into the handle to reduce the vibrations as much as possible. I have a few questions regarding this:

First of all, which substance is the best at dampening vibrations in your experience?

How much weight does this substance add (will I need to be careful with the amounts of it or does it not add that much)? To give you an idea of how much weight I am willing to add, 30g is pretty much the maximum amount.

Do I need some special procedure/method to use this material (I know how to inject silicone, would it be the same as that)?

Finally, is there anything else I need to be aware of (differences in brands of the product for example)?

Thanks in advance for any help :)
 
I did it in my Pure Drive. They had a leather grip; I found it uncomfortable on this frame so I swapped it for a synthetic and put BluTack in the handle to keep the same feel. The combination of both allow me to play without a dampener. That said, I should've probably tried the frame without the added weight first... :lol:
The "advantage" compared to silicone is that you can remove it easier if you don't push it too far down like I did. But the biggest upside is that you don't have to wait for it to dry. Else, for a cleaner and more definitive result I'd take silicon.
 
I did it in my Pure Drive. They had a leather grip; I found it uncomfortable on this frame so I swapped it for a synthetic and put BluTack in the handle to keep the same feel. The combination of both allow me to play without a dampener. That said, I should've probably tried the frame without the added weight first... :lol:
The "advantage" compared to silicone is that you can remove it easier if you don't push it too far down like I did. But the biggest upside is that you don't have to wait for it to dry. Else, for a cleaner and more definitive result I'd take silicon.

I have a leather grip on said racquet myself, but I want to try keeping on the leather grip for now... I certainly will consider removing it if this procedure doesn't yield the desired results.

I have heard a lot about BluTack on TTW, but I must admit that I have no idea what it is (or what it is called around here)…
 
I have a leather grip on said racquet myself, but I want to try keeping on the leather grip for now... I certainly will consider removing it if this procedure doesn't yield the desired results.

I have heard a lot about BluTack on TTW, but I must admit that I have no idea what it is (or what it is called around here)…
Maybe Patafix? That's how we call it in France. That said, I had found a pack of Blutack in my local shop, it makes little difference. Patafix is yellow while BluTack is... blue. I took the cheapest one. :)
 
I enjoy a muted rubbery feel. Some mods I use to achieve this:

- comfortable replacement grip such as Wilson Shock Shield (very heavy grip...weighs as much as leather but made from heavy rubber and gel) or Wilson Comfort Hybrid (very light)

- If using Comfort Hybrid I often use vinyl tape instead of lead tape under the grip to both change balance and for extra cushion. It can also modify grip size and shape. With Head handles I add three layers of vinyl tape on facets 3 and 7 for a more even or square shape.

- silicone provides more comfort than foam but weighs more than foam. Foam can also expand to the point it cracks the handle so be careful (have read about that, haven't seen it myself, but it also cracks window frames when used in excess...a small amount expands a lot!) Personally, I prefer silicone.

Filling the first few inches of handle void will add several grams. Use cotton balls coated in silicone to build a dam at the point you want the silicone to stop flowing into the handle. I use a wood dowel marked at the desired depth and shove the cotto balls in until the mark is level with the butt cap opening. Going to a depth of 4" will add several grams this way.

Be patient and let the dam fully cure and then inject silicone up to the butt cap. If it's too heavy at that point you can scoop out a little silicone. You can even use a needle nose pliers to remove silicone after it cures.

If adding a lot of silicone add it layers, letting each layer cure before adding another.
 
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Silicone is a pain to do yourself if you have multiple frames to do that you want matched.
 
Maybe Patafix? That's how we call it in France. That said, I had found a pack of Blutack in my local shop, it makes little difference. Patafix is yellow while BluTack is... blue. I took the cheapest one. :)

Ah now I know what it is! I sort of doubt that it will help me dampen the response the way I want, but it certainly sounds like an interesting option for matching frames. I'll keep it in mind, thanks :)
 
Any elastic substance in the handle may help with vibration. The notion that silicone is special is misguided. Traditionally it was used due to ease of install and density. Nowadays, for example, Wilson uses a variety of "fillers" in the handle to help match weights, including silicone or foam.
 
You can try hot glue. It adds weight about same as silicone. But when it dries you can easily drill it out whereas cleaning silicine out of hairpins is almost impossible.

I cant tell for sure how the hot glue will dampen the feel compared to silicone. But it should be worth trying and then you will know.

Many pro racket tuners use hot glue instead of silicone as it os cleaner and easier to remove. And you can measure it exactly to wanted grams.
 
You can try hot glue. It adds weight about same as silicone. But when it dries you can easily drill it out whereas cleaning silicine out of hairpins is almost impossible.

I cant tell for sure how the hot glue will dampen the feel compared to silicone. But it should be worth trying and then you will know.

Many pro racket tuners use hot glue instead of silicone as it os cleaner and easier to remove. And you can measure it exactly to wanted grams.

Hadn't ever thought of hot glue, interesting stuff…
 
Another option, one that I prefer especially when I don't want to add that much weight, is a silicone rubber named Sugru. It comes pre-packaged in handy 5g packs. Standard silicone is a good bit cheaper, though.
 
Would that really dampen the response? :shock:

Never heard of it. You never stop learning huh? :)

I've not actually tried it. It was just an idea I had after reading this thread but people use it on their strings so surely if it was stuffed in the handle it would do a similar thing, that along with the added wright it would bring.

I've also noticed that when I have played with rackets with two replacement grips on, that dampens the vibrations. Of course you would need to start with a grip size down otherwise it would feel too big.
 
I've not actually tried it. It was just an idea I had after reading this thread but people use it on their strings so surely if it was stuffed in the handle it would do a similar thing, that along with the added wright it would bring.

I've also noticed that when I have played with rackets with two replacement grips on, that dampens the vibrations. Of course you would need to start with a grip size down otherwise it would feel too big.

Yeah, but I want the rather firm feel from the leather, because this is a racquet with which I will feed and volley most often and there's nothing I hate more for that than a mushy feeling grip.

I'm not sure whether rubber bands will dampen the response when stuffed in the handle, but I'm sure that there's some method to insert them that will dampen the response to some extent.
 
Hey Spin,

The best and easiest is shocktape grip. Though its very heavy and a full grip weighs 76g. Works fantastically.

Gosen made a lighter version....if you can find it, its the sorbothane version.

Shock Shield by wilson is a 2nd choice its about 26g IIRC.

I recall a poster putting silicone into plastic bags so it was removable and you could measure the weight fairly precisely, but never did it like that. Its a huge pain but good at dampening.

some thoughts and things I havent actually tried but might work well- or thinking outloud:

Car audio places have dampening sheets like Dynamat or Roadkill. If you cut them right and the racket accommodates it you may be able to insert them in the handle and using a tiny screwdriver then just push them against the side of the inside of the handle.

Extra points for danger: If they sell them which I doubt they do in Europe, you might be able to get some gel wax used to make gel candles. You can melt the gel and pour in the racket (make a damn). I think the danger is only from using them as candles, but with your supersonic shots who knows...

Would a balloon work? cheap and easy. Stuff it in, blow it up and tie it off. If it pops because its rough inside no big deal. Or maybe fill with water or slicone? Water might be like the Prokennex iconic system on some level.
 
Would that really dampen the response? :shock:

Never heard of it. You never stop learning huh? :)
Rubberband is my go to dampening method. Tried serveral things in the past including silicone, blutack, and hotglue. Then I read about rubber bands in a thread somewhere around here...

Upside: Dampens vibration very good, solid feel, easy to remove

Downside: annoying to insert into the handle

Neutral: shown rubberband adds about 3g oft Weight (imo you need at least 2 for dampening)

https://www.ssl-id.de/eshopimages.de/artikel/tecserv-online/pf00473534.jpg

Baught them at Staples in Germany and added 3 bands into my quite stiff tfights 305... Love it
 
I have a leather grip on said racquet myself, but I want to try keeping on the leather grip for now... I certainly will consider removing it if this procedure doesn't yield the desired results.
On a side note, it's not that I don't like Leather; I don't like it on a Pure Drive. :)
 
Rubberband is my go to dampening method. Tried serveral things in the past including silicone, blutack, and hotglue. Then I read about rubber bands in a thread somewhere around here...

Upside: Dampens vibration very good, solid feel, easy to remove

Downside: annoying to insert into the handle

Neutral: shown rubberband adds about 3g oft Weight (imo you need at least 2 for dampening)

https://www.ssl-id.de/eshopimages.de/artikel/tecserv-online/pf00473534.jpg

Baught them at Staples in Germany and added 3 bands into my quite stiff tfights 305... Love it

Interesting... So how do you use them? Do you just stuff them into the handle or do you have a particular method with which you insert them?

On a side note, it's not that I don't like Leather; I don't like it on a Pure Drive. :)

Yeah, leather amplifies vibrations, so it ain't fun on a racquet like the PD.
 
How 'bout shoving an overgrip down the channel(s) of the hairpin?
I've done this once, and one overgrip adds from 5-8 grams, depending on the type you're using :)
 
Interesting... So how do you use them? Do you just stuff them into the handle or do you have a particular method with which you insert them?

I've just used this method. Basically you:

1. get bands of a width that is a little less than the hole
2. fold each over itself lengthwise (i.e. so the basic width remains the same)
3. insert at the end where the fold is - just so far as you can with your fingers
4. take a flat headed screwdriver and insert that so that it connects with the inside of the folded end, and push it down
5. keep inserting until you fill the gap.

This is a very lightweight method that helps when you want to dampen but not add the weight of silicone.

It works because elastic has great dampening properties due to the ability of the molecules to move i.e. they are the opposite of stiff.

I hope this makes some sense. It's really difficult to describe. I should do a you tube video...
 
How 'bout shoving an overgrip down the channel(s) of the hairpin?
I've done this once, and one overgrip adds from 5-8 grams, depending on the type you're using :)

Some interesting methods out there… When I have a frame to toy around with and time to spare, I think I'll try comparing them all :)

I've just used this method. Basically you:

1. get bands of a width that is a little less than the hole
2. fold each over itself lengthwise (i.e. so the basic width remains the same)
3. insert at the end where the fold is - just so far as you can with your fingers
4. take a flat headed screwdriver and insert that so that it connects with the inside of the folded end, and push it down
5. keep inserting until you fill the gap.

This is a very lightweight method that helps when you want to dampen but not add the weight of silicone.

It works because elastic has great dampening properties due to the ability of the molecules to move i.e. they are the opposite of stiff.

I hope this makes some sense. It's really difficult to describe. I should do a you tube video...

I think I understood what you mean… Certainly sounds like it's worth a try. Is it reversible (in other words, is it possible or easy to remove the rubber bands again)?
 
I think I understood what you mean… Certainly sounds like it's worth a try. Is it reversible (in other words, is it possible or easy to remove the rubber bands again)?

Yes - i've taken them out again - usually after a botched first effort. Just prize them out with a screwdriver. Or long nosed tweezers. Not sure what they would be called in Germany. Was shocked to find you don't have blue tack!

BTW - another vibration dampening technique i've employed is to have a conventional dampener set such that it connects both the strings and the frame. Worked wonders when i did it. Needs to be a rubbery one. I used the round Head Djokovic. The rounded head just settles into the grommets. Give it a try - you can always move the dampener again if it doesn't!
 
...I have heard a lot about BluTack on TTW, but I must admit that I have no idea what it is (or what it is called around here)…

BluTack is like sticky modeling clay. It is used to hand stuff, stick a gob on the wall then stick the poster to it.

That being said, 28 g of BluTack is quite a bit about 3" x 3" x 1/4". The problem is how well the substance you use dampens the vibrations not only depend on the substance but where you put it and it's ability to stay where you put it and the ability to keep it in place. Just like placing a vibration dampener in the strings. If you put the dampener against the frame it will not dampen as well as if you place it against the bottom cross. And if you place it above the bottom cross it dampens more. So you may want to vary the placement as well as the substance keeping in mind you may want to take it out.

I've never played with a racket where the vibrations bothered me so I don't have a lot of experience.
 
It's only one racquet that I intend to use for feeding and playing with juniors.

Before getting into modifying your stick(s), check if the balls you're working with could be the cause of the problem. Try to compare what the racquet feels like, using fresh, teaching balls(Penn Coach, Wilson Practice etc.), and semi dead/dead balls. If it turns out to be the ball, the solution may be as simple as using one frame at much lower tension(i.e. 30 vs 50lbs, works for me) for feeding and hitting(dep. on level).
 
Before getting into modifying your stick(s), check if the balls you're working with could be the cause of the problem. Try to compare what the racquet feels like, using fresh, teaching balls(Penn Coach, Wilson Practice etc.), and semi dead/dead balls. If it turns out to be the ball, the solution may be as simple as using one frame at much lower tension(i.e. 30 vs 50lbs, works for me) for feeding and hitting(dep. on level).

I tried it with a fresh can of balls too… Not any better unfortunately. I even have a gut hybrid in the racquet.
 
Interesting... So how do you use them? Do you just stuff them into the handle or do you have a particular method with which you insert them?



Yeah, leather amplifies vibrations, so it ain't fun on a racquet like the PD.
Depends on the racket and how the handle is built. Usually I fold them halfway stuff it in with a screwdriver and then gold the other half. You can also cut it once and then fold it so that it fits the handle.

I will prepare a racket this weekend and take some pictures or a video of me getting angry because of the annoying work with the screwdriver ;)

But it's worth it!
 
Depends on the racket and how the handle is built. Usually I fold them halfway stuff it in with a screwdriver and then gold the other half. You can also cut it once and then fold it so that it fits the handle.

I will prepare a racket this weekend and take some pictures or a video of me getting angry because of the annoying work with the screwdriver ;)

But it's worth it!

Thanks! Look forward to it.

Umm, ... then you're screwed ...;)

Woohoo! :lol:
 
Finally found some time to prepare my racket, as promised with pictures. This time it took me only 5-10 Minutes. Usually when pulling out the screwdriver, the rubberband also comes out with it...

Sorry for high res... :shock:

1424811995_1.jpg


1424811994_2.jpg


1424811993_3.jpg
 
I would buy a BLX/ basalt molded into the handle.

Omg! I am super sensitive to vibes and will do all kind of things to get rid of them, even plastidip.

The 6.1 95 (18x20) is the first box racket and the 1st one that I didn't have to do something with!!!
 
Some scenarios that I find to contribute to higher vibrations / discomfort in a racquet:
1. Bad or worn out grommets
2. Stiff strings (obvious, but want to mention)
3. Too much lead near 12 o clock
4. Stiff grip such as leather
5. Metal inserts (such as rods or shanks in some wilsons, or using coins in the trapdoor)

Stuff that I found works to reduce vibrations:
1. Depolarizing the racquet (lead closer to throat or balance point)
2. Plusher strings (obviously again :) )
3. Cushier grip (such as wilson shockshield)
4. Vibration dampening material such as blu tack in the handle
 
Awesome stuff Bensenno!

On another note, is it possible to inject silicone into the handle without removing the buttcap (for instance the Dunlop has a trap door)? Because I have always seen people remove the buttcap when injecting silicone into the handle, even if it has a trap door.
 
Awesome stuff Bensenno!

On another note, is it possible to inject silicone into the handle without removing the buttcap (for instance the Dunlop has a trap door)? Because I have always seen people remove the buttcap when injecting silicone into the handle, even if it has a trap door.

I did it on a prince POG but it really depends what your goal is. If you are trying to fill the whole handle removing the cap lets you place a flat piece over the opening creating a seal so the silicone only goes into the handle.

I used an old credit card cut to the shape of the handle with a hole for the silicone gun to be inserted.

Chicago Jack had a post on this where he showed me his method.

On that prince I just wanted a bit in the handle so I didnt remove the cap.
 
So if i add a handle full of silicone/hot glue/foam to my new blade 98 how much weight could this add and how will it effect the balance?
 
So if i add a handle full of silicone/hot glue/foam to my new blade 98 how much weight could this add and how will it effect the balance?

If I remember correctly this one YouTuber got around 70g of silicone into his handle… Anyways, you can get a lot of silicone in there
 
So if i add a handle full of silicone/hot glue/foam to my new blade 98 how much weight could this add and how will it effect the balance?

You really should have a scale and balance board. The methods you are talking about are not easy to reverse if you don't like how it plays. I would never do this without trying a temporary mod. like lead tape first. When you are happy with the feel, weight and balance of the racquet, then you can duplicate this with silicone or glue.
 
So if i add a handle full of silicone/hot glue/foam to my new blade 98 how much weight could this add and how will it effect the balance?

Note that the handle of a Blade 98 is already foam filled, so to add silicone or hot glue or whatever you will first have to remove some foam.

Replacing the stock Sublime grip with leather would be the easy way to make the Blade more headlight.
 
Am I late to the party?

The simple kitchen sink washing sponge can solve your problem. Light-weight and absorbs shock well. Once shoved-in it will try to expand and that friction against the racket hairpin keeps it in place.

Been there, done that.
 
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