I have never used one but a guy at my club asked me that question last night.
Another friend of mine had borrowed my scales to calibrate his ektelon. This guy over heard us and asked about his drop weight and neither of us knew..
Well, it's worth "calibrating" them once, to make sure the scale is in the right spot. You know, if they put that sticker an inch "off", that's not a small difference.
Buying a calibrator for my DW machine was a bad idea, though. Just sayin'...
Well, it's worth "calibrating" them once, to make sure the scale is in the right spot. You know, if they put that sticker an inch "off", that's not a small difference.
Buying a calibrator for my DW machine was a bad idea, though. Just sayin'...
It is still possible to have small variations even with a stamped arm, albeit they would (or should) be lower. I think you are right though, it will be worse with brands that apply the sticker manually (I believe Eagnas drop-weight machines do this, not positive though).
Over time, I can't really see how the calibration of a DW-type machine would drift though.
Nope. Thats why I prefer them. as long as your jaws and clamps are clean not much can go off.
I used to have a $1000 dollar electronic stringer and got rid of it. I will always have my Klipper though. Takes up very little space, doesnt break, no calibration needed, and it does its job. Going on vacation for a couple of weeks? The drop weight is a cinch to take with you.
What we really need is some sort of small hand held stringer system that can fit in your racquet bag. That would be ideal.
Always check then you are sure. You may not need to calibrate them unless there is a big change in gravity and I don't see that happening.
I borrowed a friends drop weight once to string a racket just to see what it was like. When I checked it he did not have the second weight on the bar for tennis and when set on 60 it was in the 40s.
When I told him about it he said, "That's what the other weight is for!" He wondered why when I strung his rackets they were so different.
I believe the term is 'RTFM!' when it comes to assembly of any kind, be it stringer, bike or IKEA furniture. I am almost never surprised if the user does not read the guide that comes with hardware and they're scratching their head 2 hours later wondering 'what went wrong.' :twisted:
I would calibrate only if I thought I damaged the weight or arm. I am only after a consistent string tension.
Always check then you are sure. You may not need to calibrate them unless there is a big change in gravity and I don't see that happening.
I borrowed a friends drop weight once to string a racket just to see what it was like. When I checked it he did not have the second weight on the bar for tennis and when set on 60 it was in the 40s.
When I told him about it he said, "That's what the other weight is for!" He wondered why when I strung his rackets they were so different.
Always check then you are sure. You may not need to calibrate them unless there is a big change in gravity and I don't see that happening.
I borrowed a friends drop weight once to string a racket just to see what it was like. When I checked it he did not have the second weight on the bar for tennis and when set on 60 it was in the 40s.
When I told him about it he said, "That's what the other weight is for!" He wondered why when I strung his rackets they were so different.