Do oversize frames flex more when stringing?

#1
Hi guys.

I'm still new to stringing.

On my 30th racquet ish.

Absolutely loving it.

Anyway, today I strung a Volkl Organix V1 Oversize and noticed that it flexed hugely when pulling tension on the bottom 5 crosses.

Do oversized frames flex more?

Is this normal?

Cheers, Paul
 
#2
I have not noticed this behavior with Head, Prince and Wilson 107-135 in^2. You may hear a little creaking at the tip or throat when pulling tension, but not much else. If the frame is flexing, then check your mounting. Another issue may be because you are pulling at too sharp an angle downwards. Head's Radical OS is suppose to be soft, but as I stated, not much flexing.
 
#3
Seems odd that you'd get a lot of flex on the bottom 5 crosses. I have seen frames flex before, but usually by the time it get's close to the end there's not a lot of movement. Are you sure it wasn't slipping in the mounts at all? What kind of mounts does your machine have?
 
#4
Seems odd that you'd get a lot of flex on the bottom 5 crosses. I have seen frames flex before, but usually by the time it get's close to the end there's not a lot of movement. Are you sure it wasn't slipping in the mounts at all? What kind of mounts does your machine have?

Hi Kevo.

I'm using a pro's pro comet with six mounts.

Do I need to tighten the mounts further?

I'm always worried about crushing the frame
 
#5
I used to have a machine with similar mounts. I remember having a couple of frame slips before I figured out how to adjust it well. I also added some shrinkwrap on the side mounts IIRC. I think the frame pads were just plastic and they didn't grip very well. What I would do is tighten the middle ones first until I saw the frame start to flex then I would back off just a tiny bit. Then I would tighten the sides and check for slack on the 12 and 6 mounts. Then I would back off if needed. Once everything was snug and felt right I would check to see if the frame would slide by wiggling the handle a little. Once I got the hang of it there was no problems.

Also, you do want to make sure the side arms themselves don't have any play in them. I think I oiled the pivots and adjusted those as well to keep them from flexing. My machine was an off brand made in china and it performed quite a bit better after some small fixes and adjustments.
 
#6
I used to have a machine with similar mounts. I remember having a couple of frame slips before I figured out how to adjust it well. I also added some shrinkwrap on the side mounts IIRC. I think the frame pads were just plastic and they didn't grip very well. What I would do is tighten the middle ones first until I saw the frame start to flex then I would back off just a tiny bit. Then I would tighten the sides and check for slack on the 12 and 6 mounts. Then I would back off if needed. Once everything was snug and felt right I would check to see if the frame would slide by wiggling the handle a little. Once I got the hang of it there was no problems.

Also, you do want to make sure the side arms themselves don't have any play in them. I think I oiled the pivots and adjusted those as well to keep them from flexing. My machine was an off brand made in china and it performed quite a bit better after some small fixes and adjustments.

Hi Kevo.

So should the frame be able to move slightly in the mounts. Or be rigid?
 
#7
It shouldn't move in the mounts. If you try hard enough it will move of course, but you don't want it moving while being strung, so it should be quite snug.

I also had this problem with the first stringer I ever bought, a klippermate. They had very helpful support, and when I asked about it they said to put some leather on the mounting pads. The mounting pads were plastic or nylon and not very grippy and the leather was perfect. No more problems after that.
 
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