A 5' point right in Santa Barbara is a very nice wave, especially for a grom riding a 5'9" tri fin, one who likes to hassle with the crowds, and us under 40 years of age.Come on Lee, there was 20' faces with top to bottom barrels at Rincon last Wednesday and Thursday and about a dozen double overhead days with more on the way.
Wouldn't exactly call it mush slow when boards and skulls are being snapped.
Slow mush about a mile from my office.
Oh yeah, mostly mtn biking and snowboarding on the side for me.
You and I won't be out there snaking, faking, and jockeying for that wave.
Let's see. My smallest board is a 6'8" x 18" Brewer. I do have two funboards, one for teaching, the other for light wind kietsurfing (Bic's, 7'9" and 7'3"). My other board is a 8' Brewer Plumeria made by him on Kaui expressly for big (8-12') Hanalei Bay. Anything bigger than 10' Hanalei, you'd better break out the real 9'6" gun, because of the paddling against the current, the jockeying needed, and the long sections that break along the reef from Flat Rock thru the Bowl.
Joey Cabell use to always ride his 4" thick, downrailed 9' board when it was over just 8'. He liked to get more than a couple waves an hour, as did I.
Billy Hamilton never rode anything smaller than 8' at overhead Hanalei Bay.
I don't care what Laird rode, because I met him when he was around 7.