Doc Hollidae's Tennis Tips

Doc Hollidae

Hall of Fame
These are just some tips and advice that I've based parts of my game around. It might not be the best advice and people may or may not agree with it, but it's helped me get to where I am, so hopefully it can help others as well.

The Unit Turn aka "Coiling"
One of the most overlooked techniques in tennis, yet one of the most important. Essential for pace and proper technique, yet often forgotten or ignored. The unit turn should be the start of every groundstroke.

Wardlaw's Directionals
A simple and solid shot selection system. Focuses on high percentage tennis and changing the direction of the ball, more so than angles and aiming for lines. Wardlaw's Directionals allows you to focus on your strokes more, as the simple system is easy to remember and cuts down on the time spent choosing a where to hit the next ball. Great for beginning singles players and a good foundation for more accomplished players.

Shot Tolerance
The amount of balls you can put in play during a single point. Realize what your shot tolerance is, as well as, your opponent’s. Pushers for example will have a high shot tolerance. You always want to be increasing your shot tolerance and keeping your opponent’s to a minimum. (See Analyzing Your Opponent)

Momentum Control
Like any sport, momentum also plays a factor in tennis. A few points here and there can be the difference in a match, pending on the momentum gained or loss. Pay attention to things that affect momentum and how to keep it in your favor. After you hit a great shot or your opponent hits a terrible one, take a little extra time to let him/her mull it over. Maybe shout a "come on" or a "let's go" to let your opponent know you are confident and positive. Different things can affect momentum and often they are out of control, but always understand the importance of momentum.

Spatial Awareness
Be aware of your body positioning in relation to the ball and your contact point. Once you are aware of the space required between yourself and your contact point, concentrate on setting up on the inside of the ball. Inside meaning the side of the ball closest to your body, outside meaning the furthest from you and front and back being obvious. Once you are aware of your positioning, you will find that it will improve your footwork as you become more aware of where you need to be and how much space you need to set up on the "inside of the ball." Improved footwork = higher consistency and better tennis.

"Tentative Tennis Never Wins"
My new motto. Players who play tentative will never play to their full potential or skill level. Players who play tentatively, usually end up making more mistakes than if they were to play aggressive. These players often find themselves losing to opponents of lower skill levels. Often a reason why people lose to pushers, because they aren't confident enough in their abilities or game. Remember you play your style of tennis best, so stay aggressive and do what you do best. Pushing is for pushers. If you're not a pusher, then don't push. (Note: I have nothing against pushers, just making a point of playing your game and not your opponent's)

Phone Booth Volley Technique
This is the best advice I ever received in regards to volleys. A local club pro told me to imagine myself inside a phone booth with my racket and that's all the room I have to hit a volley. While simple and somewhat silly, this piece of advice reminds me to not swing at volleys and instead "punch" them. Also a volley doesn't need

"Shaping"
Visualize the shot you are going to hit and imagine the shape you want to give it. While the execution of the shot you visualized might not always happen like you imagined it, but it helps you focus on your shot more. It's easy to sit there and rally from the baseline without much thought, but think about the "shape" of the shot you want. While this may seem to be more mental than anything, it a good tool for focusing and concentrating on proper technique. I'm much more likely to get a good knee bend and unit turn when focusing on hitting a deep loopy topspin compared to just hitting the ball back in a rally and trying to keep it deep.

Grind
In recreational tennis, consistency rules. While power players are fun to watch and are fearsome opponents, it's steady and consistent players that should be feared the most. Not necessarily pushers, but they too can be included in this category. When found in a losing position, dig your feet in and get ready to grind. This means maximizing your shot tolerance and playing high percentage and consistent tennis. However, this doesn't mean you play tentative tennis and stop going for your shots. It just means to concentrate on consistency and point construction rather than pace. Put your ego aside and lower the testosterone and concentrate more on depth and penetration instead of showing your opponent you can hit the ball hard. Most anyone can hit the **** out of the ball, but can they do it consistently?

Footwork
While technique and timing play a large factor in your stroke, it’s when your footwork breaks down that you miss the most. When playing competitive tennis, a player's footwork is usually the main cause of misses, more than their technique. When playing a match, think about breaking down a player’s footwork as a portion of your game plan. An example: Hitting a low slice that lands around “No Man’s Land” which causes the player to lunge forward instead of taking 2-3 small steps forward and taking the ball in his comfort zone. Plays like this will keep your opponent guessing as well as give you free points every now and then. A player can have great stokes and timing, but if he/she doesn’t have the footwork to properly set up for the ball those strokes and timing goes to waste.

Learning from Pushers: Play Your Own Game
Everyone hates playing a pusher. A multitude of nasty adjectives can be used to describe these types of players, but there are a few things you can learn from a pusher. One thing you’ll always see is that a pusher rarely plays outside of his game/limitations. They play their game and rarely, if ever, allow their opponent to dictate their style of play or tempo. Often players are confronted by an opponent they don’t like playing (ex. Pushers) and will abandon their style of play for another style. Just because a pusher isn’t aggressive doesn’t mean you can’t play aggressive. Like a pusher, always trust your game, but also know your limitations.

“Play the Slice, Don’t Let the Slice Play You”
I heard Pat MacEnroe say this during the semi between Federer and Djokovic. While a simple and obvious tactic, I think Djokovic did an exceptional job on how to do it. Everytime Federer hit one of those mid-ranged slices/chips, Djokovic moved into the court and made an aggressive play on the ball. He didn’t sit back and just hit another rally ball and he didn’t play a neutral shot and just slice the ball back.

At the recreational level, players are likely to face people with slice backhands that don’t have much pace or depth. Most 2 handed backhand players have difficulty playing against this type of shot as the low bounce makes it tough to do anything offensive. In general, the key here is to step into the shot and make sure your feet are there along with your swing. Often players will let the slice come to them and the low bounce forces them to hit a defensive or neutral shot. Players who allow the slice to come to them also tend to produce a few more unforced errors as their feet and body aren’t and their point of contact is too low and/or too far in front of them. Hitting an aggressive or offensive shot off a slow paced, slow bouncing slice requires good footwork, so don’t let the slow pace make you lazy or relax. (See Footwork Section)
 
Last edited:
Analyze Your Opponent
At tournament you’ll get ~5 minutes for a warm up for other matches a minimum of 5 minutes. Use this time to analyze your opponent. First, look at their grips. Each type of grip has its strengths and weaknesses. SW and Western grips like their contact points higher up, while Continental and Eastern grips like their contact points lower. Use this information to your advantage. You might want to slice a little bit more than usual against a Western forehand or you might want to hit a little extra topspin against a Continental forehand. Against a two handed backhand, low slices will keep them hitting neutral or defensive shots. Against a one hander, hitting loopy topspin like will make like difficult and also keep them from going on the offensive. A lot of one handers will slice back high balls as rolling over them is more difficult. When your opponent takes volleys, see if they’re in a proper continental grip or if they’re sitting in a semi-western. If you see a player hitting volleys in a semi-western grip, you should be licking your chops bringing them to the net as often as possible.

The second thing is to look at their technique. Do they have proper form? How is their footwork? Do they use their arms mostly to create power or does it come from their legs and hips? Little things like this may give you insight on a particular stroke that will break down or a which wing you want to pick on. Technique flaws aren’t always apparent so don’t make something out of nothing, but paying attention to technique as it can reveal important information.

Lastly, pay attention to the player’s shot tolerance. See how many balls your opponent can keep in play before they break down. Some players might have a shot tolerance of 4-5 strokes while others may have a shot tolerance of 20+. Also pay attention to the shot tolerance of each wing. A player’s forehand might bring a world of hurt, but their shot tolerance might only be 2-3 shots on their forehand side. So if you can weather the storm for 1-2 shots, there’s a good chance your opponent is going to miss.

Control, Hurt, Finish
For many recreational players there’s two types of shots: rally balls and winners. Either they are trying to stay in a rally or they are going for a winner, but what happens is they often go for a winner in low percentage situation and end up making more and more errors. What these players are missing is the mentality for a set up shot or what I like to call the “Hurt” shot. Set-up shots/Hurt shots put your opponent on the defensive and usually results in a weak reply that can be put away for an easy winner.

When starting a point you should be in control mode, looking for an opportunity to hurt your opponent. A hurt shot doesn’t necessarily mean waiting for a short ball, but any opportunity you see to go on the offensive. However, this doesn’t mean go straight for the winner. There will be times for that, but that style of play leads to a lot of unforced errors and a lot of mental anguish. Once you start looking for those hurt shots more often, you’ll find that you’ll also have more opportunities to go for winners and less errors occurring. This might be obvious, but is something to think about in terms of point construction and should help in cutting down unforced errors. This mentality is a good way to approach playing pushers.
 
2hbh thoughts?

Excellent stuff Doc. There's a lot there to be thinking on, and a lot I could question you further about. However, having seemingly gone back again to the 2hbh (I have a history of flip-flopping between 1h and 2hbh), I'd love it if you could possibly post up a small section on your thoughts and fundamental tips on the 2her... Oh! And BTW, this afternoon I was wielding the mighty Rad Tour Twin Tube XL once more! (I think perhaps I'll post in the Radicals thread about this.)
 
thanks for the thoughts doc. definitely agree with the new motto of yours! can't be tentative, it really hurts you in the long run.

only thing i would add is for people to think about their MARGIN FOR ERROR. if they are inconsistent with their aim, the should leave a large M4E. it could be as large as something like 8 ft in from the baseline to 8 ft inside each sideline. the more control and consistency one has, the smaller the M4E they need... cutting it down to say 3 ft inside and baseline and 3 ft inside the sidelines.

Margin For Error also include hitting over the net. beginners should give themselves plenty of room above the net (6-8 ft if needed). the more advanced, the lower it can go of course, but still should have plenty of room for clearance (3-4, etc...).

hope that helps a little.
 
Back
Top