Don't have lead tape, what "stuff" do I put at 3 and 9 as a substitute?

DonDiego

Hall of Fame
Trying the Blade 104 (2013) tonight, and I want to add weight at 3 and 9 for my test. Other than lead tape, what can work? Thanks.
 

The_Racketeer

Professional
Technically anything sticky, preferably with some heft. You just have to weigh it first. A heavy gauze tape maybe. Be sure it won't rip the paint off the frame when removing it though.

If you want to add weight at the handle, you can put almost anything flat under the grip. Or even fishing weights in the handle through the butt cap.

You should be able to find lead tape though at your local sporting goods store for cheap. It is the best thing to use.
 

jjs891

Semi-Pro
If you're just testing, you can place small dampners at 3 and 9 and see if it's something you want to do permanently later. I do this when I am just trying to figure out the set up. You can move them around at 10 and 2 or 12, etc. Downside is that you're stuck with the fixed amount of weight of the particular dampners you have on hand. I just happen to have variety with slightly different weights. Hope this helps.
 

ced

Professional
Blue adhesive putty

The blue stuff is at any Lowe's or Home DePot and works as well as lead, plus it is much easier to remove.
 

ChicagoJack

Hall of Fame
1. I agree with the Blue-Tac solution. Loctite is the Walmart version ($1.99 per pack) I always have several rolls of 1/4" and 1/2" lead on hand, but Blue tac is great for quick demos, and easily removed. I use it for new frames that I don't quite have a feel for yet, or think I might want to re-sell at some point. When I am happy with the locations, balance, and SW, then it's time for silicone and lead under the bumpers. However, I have a hitting partner who has Blue-Tac on the hoop and buttcap permanently on all his frames. No reason you cant do that either.

2. What you see in the photos below is 5 grams on the buttcap and 8 grams total in the hoop (4g at the tip, 4g at 3-9). Brings the SW of the Tec 315 Ltd. from 301 to 323 or thereabouts.

3. I cannot agree with the athletic tape suggestion, as it does not adhere well, and often leaves a white pasty mess behind when you remove it.







Regards, Jack
 
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loubapache

Professional
I agree with the Blue-Tac solution. Loctite is the Walmart version ($1.99 per pack).
That is what I use, mainly inside the handle and butt cap. Our local Wal-Mart has it for $1.74, LOL.

A heavier tape for 3-9 o'clock demo is the racket protection tape.

OP, if you are concerned about health side effects of lead tape, you can easily cover it with some electric tape.

CJ, I saw your other thread about the Fischer 105's. That is my main and favorite frame and I have a few of them (both SL and UL) but non in your grip size. I have done quite some mods to them (extending to 27.5", around 350 g, 340 SW, etc). I can say that the BX1 Pacific x Comp, when weighted right, can turn into a Fischer SL. There is a seller in your backyard who has it for a good price.
 
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ChicagoJack

Hall of Fame
That is what I use, mainly inside the handle and butt cap. Our local Wal-Mart has it for $1.74, LOL.

A heavier tape for 3-9 o'clock demo is the racket protection tape.

OP, if you are concerned about health side effects of lead tape, you can easily cover it with some electric tape.

CJ, I saw your other thread about the Fischer 105's. That is my main and favorite frame and I have a few of them (both SL and UL) but non in your grip size. I have done quite some mods to them (extending to 27.5", around 350 g, 340 SW, etc). I can say that the BX1 Pacific x Comp, when weighted right, can turn into a Fischer SL. There is a seller in your backyard who has it for a good price.
Thanks loubapache! The Pacific X-force Comp 105 somehow slipped under my radar. Just looked up the specs, I'd be adding quite a bit of tail weight, but that could totally work.

Apologies to OP for extending off-topic.

Regards, J
 
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Blu Tack is a great idea! I'll definitely use that in the future, when I'm looking for that perfect setup. Most all my frames are full of that adhesive from lead tapes. Looks ugly. :twisted:
 

nickynu

Semi-Pro
I often use a bottle of lemonade on one side of the hoop and a fire extinguisher on the other. A cat is great for tailweighting, but if you use one a kitten is more malleable.

Hope that helps.
 

ChicagoJack

Hall of Fame
^^ 10 Lolz !!! I launched my Retouching, CGI & Animation career 25 years ago with Photoshop version 2.5.... Installing the software required inserting seven 2.5" floppy disks one after the other IIRC. Oh .. and Peter, what is your day rate? I think I might be able to use you during my Q4 crunch time he he.
 
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PeterFig

Professional
^^ 10 Lolz !!! I launched my Retouching, CGI & Animation career 25 years ago with Photoshop version 2.5.... Installing the software required inserting seven 2.5" floppy disks one after the other IIRC. Oh .. and Peter, what is your day rate? I think I might be able to use you during my Q4 crunch time he he.
Hahaha - I remember those days.... especially when you got to diskette 7 and it gave a "Read Write" error!!!

I'd be all over helping you come Q4 but another Chicago company has my heart (and time) right now :) #Wilson
 

RanchDressing

Hall of Fame
The devil is in the details :) :)
Thanks for noticing.
That is definitely one of the funniest tennis photochops I've seen in a while!




But op just buy a reel of lead tape. It's worth it. One reel will last you a LONG time. And you'll be able to do a ton of racquets.



I saw someone mentioning that athletic tape leaves sticky residue. Most things will, including lead tape sometimes. If you get some residue, a quick spray of wd40 on the spot (let it soak for a few seconds), and rub it off with a paper towel, or use a credit card to help scrape it off. Should do the trick really well.

Much safer than using goof off. Just need to be careful. Some cosmetics are sensitive and can loose a small amount of sheen. If that happens, a bit of spray on wax for cars or instant shine solutions will fix that very well and last.
 

nickynu

Semi-Pro
I know you think he's trolling ... but I've actually seen this method used on tour.

See:

Absolute genius. What I like best is that you used one Federer using a blacked out frame to signify he was experimenting with rackets and specs!!

Love it.
 

gino

Hall of Fame
1. I agree with the Blue-Tac solution. Loctite is the Walmart version ($1.99 per pack) I always have several rolls of 1/4" and 1/2" lead on hand, but Blue tac is great for quick demos, and easily removed. I use it for new frames that I don't quite have a feel for yet, or think I might want to re-sell at some point. When I am happy with the locations, balance, and SW, then it's time for silicone and lead under the bumpers. However, I have a hitting partner who has Blue-Tac on the hoop and buttcap permanently on all his frames. No reason you cant do that either.

2. What you see in the photos below is 5 grams on the buttcap and 8 grams total in the hoop (4g at the tip, 4g at 3-9). Brings the SW of the Tec 315 Ltd. from 301 to 323 or thereabouts.

3. I cannot agree with the athletic tape suggestion, as it does not adhere well, and often leaves a white pasty mess behind when you remove it.







Regards, Jack

Bump.... @ChicagoJack and pictures of putty application inside of the handle? Preferably on a Wilson frame. Thanks!
 

courtrage

Semi-Pro
mmagnetic tape strips also from walmart...in the arts and crafts section...the have a pack of 18 strips each 5in by 1half that weigh 7.5grams...very inexpenssive.
 

ChicagoJack

Hall of Fame
Bump.... @ChicagoJack and pictures of putty application inside of the handle? Preferably on a Wilson frame. Thanks!
Hi Gino,

Can do. See photos below.

Whatever you choose to use inside the hairpin, (hairpin is what the pallet adheres to) you need to make sure it's not going to rattle around, or worse yet, work its way down into the throat of the frame. There is nothing at the bottom of the hairpin, it flows directly into the hollow throat and frame. So you need to create a dam of sorts to secure whatever it is you are adding.

The classic method for silicone injection is cotton balls. Trouble with cotton balls is they don't stick to the insides very well. Just a cotton ball in each chamber works great for a little dab (10 grams usually works out to about 1 inch) of silicone until it dries, but doesn't work well if you need to fill the whole chamber.

For securing the bottom, I have tried various types of foam, and very dense, very heavy memory foam works best. The less dense versions are not as secure, as they compress too easily. The very light white shiny foam (kind that the make foam peanuts out of) was a disaster in one of my sticks. It came loose and actually is stiff enough to create a rattle from somewhere inside the throat.

The memory foam also creates some vibration dampening. I cut into four gram blocks, (one for each chamber) then wrap it with braided premium fishing line. It takes quite a bit of pressure to get a bundle that size into one chamber, and that's good. That means it's not going anywhere. The fishing line allows you to control the depth as you are working, and if you need to yank the whole thing out for any reason it's easy-peazy.



Hope that is helpful!
- Jack
 
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