Dunlop Maxply Fort (Wood)


Hi, I just turned 18 a few weeks ago, and so I don't really have much knowledge on wooden rackets. So my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to do some research on some wooden rackets. I decided to purchase a Dunlop Maxply Fort (Medium). Well, I had some questions about it.

1. What's the difference between the Dunlop Maxply Fort "Medium" and the Dunlop Maxply Fort "Light"?

2. What are the wooden presses for? And would a "mousetrap" design be better than a traditional screw-on?

3. I heard the Maxplys Fort break easily, so where exactly do they break? How do they break (i.e. Shanking the ball, or just the wood breaking down over the years)?

If these questions have been answered in the previous threads, I apologize, but I really did try to use the search tab to look. Thanks for your compliance and help.



1. Weight difference.

2. This refers to the raquet press that prevents the head from warping. A mousetrap design uses a fold-down clamp to squeeze the head tight. Screw-down uses four screws at the corners with four wingnuts. Mousetrap is quicker, not better.

3. Don't know. I've seen plenty of Maxplys, but no broken ones. (I played with Wilson woodies when starting out in the sixties.)

fuzz nation

I actually used a medium weight Maxply when I was a squirt along with a light one - I'd switch a lot. The medium was super solid for me as a young serve and volleyer and I've been into hefty frames ever since.

Can't say I ever broke one...


On the breakage issue, it was more likely to be due to material fatigue over time. I saw less of this type of failure in the Forts than with the contemporary frames of the era. As for a location, the upper part of the hoop between 10 & 2 o'clock.
The Forts were no worse than any other frame from what I recall.

Breakages in wooden frames tend to be either as a result of warping putting extra pressure on the frame, or because of damage from the frame getting knocked, or because of rough treatment when stringing - they existed before stringing machines were widely available and the strings would be tensioned by hand and then "clamped" by ramming an awl into the hole with the string. Both the tensioning and awl-ing could take their toll.

As someone else said, breakages tended to happen at 10 and 2, this is because it's the point of maximum stress on the frame; it's where the racquet wants to break.


McEnroe version

i had 2 Dunlop Maxply McEnroe. One has a SUBSTD Casted on it. That's the one which broke my wrist a few yrs back. It also has its head curving up a bit cause i don't have clamp these days. Never dare to try them anymore after that injury. Sitting there for 20 yrs+, their string is still very lively (wish today's string are the same) and they both weigh 375g.


Oh ok, thanks for all your replies! I can't wait to receive it and play with it for a bit.

So if the racket isn't kept in a wood press, it may warp?