So I've continually seen posters lamenting about economy level natural gut snapping while stringing or prematurely breaking in the frame. I figured I'd post some input on the string and a type of "how-to" First I'm going to discuss the different types of econogut I've come across, then I'm going to share 2 examples of string jobs I've completed with pictures. Below are the different types of gut I've had experience working with in order of price: Babolat VS, VS Team 17 Babolat BT7 Prince Natural gut Babolat Tonic+ Babolat Tonic Longevity Pacific Classic Titan Natural gut Gaucho Natural gut Gaucho Spider silk Mamba Premium Natural Gut Obviously there's a huge discrepancy between the high end of the list and the low end. Here's what you'll see as you go down the list. 1. Change in consistency of gauge 2. Chemical coating 3. Resistance to change in weather 4. Fraying due to coating 5.Tension range The higher class guts will typically be one continuous piece while the econoguts often come in two. Likewise, Babolat is known for having impeccable gauge while econoguts can vary 1-even 2 gauges at different points in the string. Often times, this is the greatest cause for lament. Many times, the coating can be the source of the problem while other times it's the actual string. Whether for this reason or for others, econoguts should not be strung over ~56 lbs. If you need to string at 60#, you're taking a chance. Note, this is entirely possible as I've strung plenty of frames at 58-60lbs with these strings but I definitely don't suggest it. When working with these econoguts, it is pivotal to TAKE YOUR TIME. What majority of stringers don't realize is that these strings are not built with the same quality that Babolat, or other high brand names are and suffer from negligence. Another thing that most people don't realize is that everyone is falliable-- I took a set of Gaucho spider silk (a fairly sturdy econogut) to a very good and reputable stringer-friend of mine. This gentleman does 40+ frames a week and has strung for many of the top pros at world tournaments. There is no doubt as to his stringing "prowess." Even so, he did a terrible job stringing my frame simply because he treated the string as if it were VS. His determination was that the string was of poor quality and didn't believe that it could be strung "properly." Needless to say, he was surprised when I produced a frame using the other half of the set with more favorable results. In no way am I denouncing his ability; if anything, he's been a bit of a mentor. I'm simply expressing that it's a different ball game. On to the actual stringing. The first example I'll use is Gut mains and Polyester crosses. The strings that I chose to use are Mamba Premium gut 16g and Discho Iontec Black 1.25 crosses. What the strings actually look like: Stringing gut mains is pretty straight forward. There aren't really any major hitches other than taking your time and making sure the string doesn't get tangled and kinked. I generally make it a point not to preweave when using econoguts just because I don't like to put the extra tension on the string. I like to let it fall and turn and twist as it pleases. Go one by one and take your time. When pulling tension, make sure that you have your setting to the slowest available or that you crank/ drop weight slowly. The trick is to let the string stretch and relax on its own. There are a few options for dealing with poorly coated or dry gut as well. The first common practice is to wax your mains. Not only will this help mitigate the friction between the crosses when you install them but it will also help "seal" the gut a bit. I use a non-scented, non-colored house candle to do this. See the picture below. The other option, one which I have not tried, is to coat the mains with something else. I've heard different options were to use baby oil or even some sort of lubricant spray (silicone comes to mind) to help seal the gut and keep it flexible.