First String Job

BDAZ

Professional
Just completed my first go at stringing. Just used some left over string I had lying around... a length of Hyper G that a friend cut too short for his racquet, and the end of a reel of Prince Syn. Gut Duraflex (that I originally bought brand new for $6). Put them into a racquet that has the smallest head and least number of strings of all that I own... Prince Graphite Mid. Took my time, but my knots suck. Not completely sure it’s 100% done correctly, but we’ll give it a hit. Only bummer is I realized when all was said and done that I strung it way lower than I intended. One of my girls must’ve played with the knob. Was aiming for around 52, but I think I strung the whole thing up at 46 or so. Oh, well.





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BDAZ

Professional
Yeah, I’m not setting any speed records. Second go around today was not as successful. Brutally miswove (misweaved?) about 2/3 of the way down but didn’t realize until it was off the machine. Also, the end, knot-wise, was a complete and total cluster-f.
 

jim e

Legend
Look at Yulittle video on the so called Parnell knot. It is an easy knot to tie and cinches up nice and snug. I used that knot for over 50 years.
On your mis weave, if you start under the 1st main, you should be over the last main, and reverse is true as well, as there is normally an even number of main strings.This should free up time to check for mis weaves, unless you end up with 2 miss weaves in same row, you only need to know what the last weave goes under or over, depending on how you start the weave.
I typically start the majority of weaves going under the 1st weave, so I go over the last weave and that makes it easier to get the end through the grommet.
 

LOBALOT

Professional
Yeah, I’m not setting any speed records. Second go around today was not as successful. Brutally miswove (misweaved?) about 2/3 of the way down but didn’t realize until it was off the machine. Also, the end, knot-wise, was a complete and total cluster-f.
That is OK keep going at it and it will be routine before you know it.
 

1HBHfanatic

Legend
-i liked the fact that i kept a log of all my string jobs
-my logs include date, racket type info, small notes on string setup/combo, likes/dislikes, but most important "string length used" mains/crosses
-give yourself about an hour per frame for the first year or so, but time will get faster
-welcome to stringing!!
-lots of good videos on youtube, @Irvin and @YULitle have good ones
 

esgee48

Legend
GRAPHITE CLASSIC 9050 - 6517'M -17'C14M X 18C7T - 7B5T7T4T -10B
T=top of Hoop and B=bottom of hoop: Source KMUSA
Since we're in limbo right now, what you could do is just practice using the same strings over and over. Tie knots loosely. Practice weaving. When all done, clamp the last strings and remove the loose knot. :happydevil:
 

BDAZ

Professional
Look at Yulittle video on the so called Parnell knot. It is an easy knot to tie and cinches up nice and snug. I used that knot for over 50 years.
On your mis weave, if you start under the 1st main, you should be over the last main, and reverse is true as well, as there is normally an even number of main strings.This should free up time to check for mis weaves, unless you end up with 2 miss weaves in same row, you only need to know what the last weave goes under or over, depending on how you start the weave.
I typically start the majority of weaves going under the 1st weave, so I go over the last weave and that makes it easier to get the end through the grommet.
Two misweaves in the same row... that’s what tripped me up. I did figure out that if you start a row over the first main you’ll finish under the last, and vice versa. Everything checked out in that front. But a double misweave...
 

tennisbike

Professional
Good job on the first try.

From the pictures, am I detecting a lot more up and down on the cross than the main strings? Could be just the way the picture is taken.
1. Yes, do give it a try and see how you like it.
2. If you compare the weave, looking from 3 or 9 o'clock of the frame for main strings and look from butt cap for cross strings, whichever has greater up and down indicate looser tension. You can also look at the weaves to compare one cross to another cross to look for a loose tension. Generally it is preferable to be fairly equal between main and cross, perhaps slightly more up and down, i.e. lower tension, on the cross. If the main is significantly straighter, then perhaps the tension got changed before starting the cross strings.
3. If you are getting finicky then get a StringMeter to check all the strings. You are only comparing one string to another on the same stringbed to look for consistency of your string job. FYI, SM users are looked upon as idiots on TT forum in general though, if you care what others think.
 

tennisbike

Professional
What do you mean by up and down on the crosses?
Look at the weave of the strings. Each strings go over and then under alternatively along the string bed. Hold the racket up with your eye about a few inches above the butt cap and look toward the top of the hoop. You will see the cross strings going across but over and under the 16 or 18 main strings.
 

BDAZ

Professional
Okay. There’s nothing wrong with this string job. This one’s fine. It was my second attempt that I messed up.
 

jmacdaununder2

Hall of Fame
What do you mean by up and down on the crosses?
During stringing look at a cross string that's woven and pushed roughly into position but is yet to be tensioned; it will go much more up and down/higher and lower perpendicular to the plane of the stringbed/racquet face when compared with the already tensioned strings. Likewise, more loosely tensioned strings will go further up and down than more tightly tensioned ones will.
 

zinzan8

Rookie
During stringing look at a cross string that's woven and pushed roughly into position but is yet to be tensioned; it will go much more up and down/higher and lower perpendicular to the plane of the stringbed/racquet face when compared with the already tensioned strings. Likewise, more loosely tensioned strings will go further up and down than more tightly tensioned ones will.
Now that is a better explanation of looking for ups and downs!
 

chrisb

Semi-Pro
That is what scissors are for. Get a real of cheap syn gut and practice. U using drop weight stringer crank or electric? U use floating clamps or fixed? Did you make sure your clamps did not allow string to slip. If your clamps were older did you clean the gripping part with alcohol to clean them. And remember the only 2 people that never make mistakes are fools and liars good luck Use U Tube as an aid
 

BDAZ

Professional
Found this in a drawer. If I recall, someone gave it to me a few years ago, and they obviously had it for a long time before that. Viability, and likelihood that it snaps while stringing?




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esgee48

Legend
The set is only 33' long. Could be from the days when wood was king. If you are careful, it should fit your POG mid with perhaps bridging for the last string. Do not do a 2 piece. If you do, you will end up probably short on both pieces. The info is a natural one piece.

As for condition of strings, if the package has not been open, the strings may be OK. When you do open the package, feel the string. If the texture feels brittle, wipe the string down with furniture polish on a paper towel. Do not overdo the oil. Let the oil be absorbed by the NG. If the strings feel a little greasy right out of the package, you can use the strings. You may want to wipe any excess coating off the NG.
 

brownbearfalling

Hall of Fame
I didn’t see a starting clamp in your tool tray. It’ll help with starting the crosses on a 2pc so you don’t have to use a bulky starting knot.
 

BDAZ

Professional
I will, thanks. Yeah, I do t have a starting clamp. Need to get one. Knots are not my strong suit. I’ve watched videos on the Parnell knot before, but that was before I actually started stringing. I used the TW video on stringing as a guide the first time and in it, Andy used a starting knot to start the crosses.
 

BDAZ

Professional
The set is only 33' long. Could be from the days when wood was king. If you are careful, it should fit your POG mid with perhaps bridging for the last string. Do not do a 2 piece. If you do, you will end up probably short on both pieces. The info is a natural one piece.

As for condition of strings, if the package has not been open, the strings may be OK. When you do open the package, feel the string. If the texture feels brittle, wipe the string down with furniture polish on a paper towel. Do not overdo the oil. Let the oil be absorbed by the NG. If the strings feel a little greasy right out of the package, you can use the strings. You may want to wipe any excess coating off the NG.
Definitely will use this as a hybrid in the mains, probably in a larger head (95-98) 18x20. Should be plenty of string. Good news is it doesn’t seem to be brittle. Feels nice and pliable.
 

FIRETennis

Semi-Pro
It's great that you are learning.
You won't believe how big of a difference it will make in your game to have consistent string jobs!
Most underestimate equipment importance at the amateur level, but look at the pros how detail oriented they are about their setups.
Get RacquetTune and make sure you ping your racquets after every string job (and after x hours of play) to see the tension.
You would not believe how many terrible string jobs I have gotten from various "pro shops" in my town. I would say 80% are junk and do not do a proper job cleaning the clamps and clamping properly.
If you find a reliable stringer, stick to him/her but otherwise it's wild wild west out there and it will affect your game.
If you are used to 55lbs and you get 48lbs fresh for a tournament, I do not think even a pro would have their shots go where they want.
 

SteveI

Legend
It's great that you are learning.
You won't believe how big of a difference it will make in your game to have consistent string jobs!
Most underestimate equipment importance at the amateur level, but look at the pros how detail oriented they are about their setups.
Get RacquetTune and make sure you ping your racquets after every string job (and after x hours of play) to see the tension.
You would not believe how many terrible string jobs I have gotten from various "pro shops" in my town. I would say 80% are junk and do not do a proper job cleaning the clamps and clamping properly.
If you find a reliable stringer, stick to him/her but otherwise it's wild wild west out there and it will affect your game.
If you are used to 55lbs and you get 48lbs fresh for a tournament, I do not think even a pro would have their shots go where they want.

Well said...
 

TagUrIt

Hall of Fame
I just starting stringing as well, maybe it's cheating, but I use a cross stringing tool. It makes stringing the crosses effortless. My fingers thank me after.

 
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Ultra 2

Professional
Found this in a drawer. If I recall, someone gave it to me a few years ago, and they obviously had it for a long time before that. Viability, and likelihood that it snaps while stringing?




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cool! Wonder if it came out of the babolat facility. Yeah 33 feet is plenty for a 14x18 POG. when I do a 2 piece, I cut 15.5’ for mains and 16’ feet for crosses.
 

LOBALOT

Professional
I just starting stringing as well, maybe it's cheating, but I use a cross stringing tool. It makes stringing the crosses effortless. My fingers thank me after.

I have been at it a couple of years after starting out. I am not sure if others would agree but if I can offer some advice I would not use a weaving tool. I would learn to weave without it.

I would first work on stringing the 2 piece pattern with a starting clamp. Really nail that making sure you string 1 ahead on the crosses and get rid of smiles. Check your tension on results and confirm you are achieving the desired tension. If you are using a double half hitch that is fine. If you have a better finishing knot that is fine too. The objective is to develop a solid repeatable process without the weaving tool.

Once you have that down I would then focus on learning knots i.e. Parnell, Pro, and starting knots on 2 piece.

I would then focus on weaving technique and refining that so you get quicker. I have been working on my pull weaves and that has worked great. I have gotten a lot faster but this is added value in my opinion as it basically is saving you time in that at this point you are achieving good results and now doing it faster.

In the middle of all that you are going to wander through various racquets/patterns that will trip you up. I would reach out here if you struggle as there are a lot great people here that offer support.

That has worked for me and I owe it to the support I have received from the folks on this forum.
 

TagUrIt

Hall of Fame
I have been at it a couple of years after starting out. I am not sure if others would agree but if I can offer some advice I would not use a weaving tool. I would learn to weave without it.
Just curious why would you recommend to cross weave without using it? Honestly speaking, weaving the crosses is super easy with the tool. Not sure why I would want to make it more difficult. My racquet requires two piece stringing so I follow that guideline. I do use the Parnell knot as well. The more I string, the more I reduce the smiles too btw.
 

LOBALOT

Professional
Just curious why would you recommend to cross weave without using it? Honestly speaking, weaving the crosses is super easy with the tool. Not sure why I would want to make it more difficult. My racquet requires two piece stringing so I follow that guideline. I do use the Parnell knot as well. The more I string, the more I reduce the smiles too btw.
I am just thinking in general one is not going to learn how to restring a racquet you are going to need to learn without it. However, I am really not meaning anything negative of your approach. I just feel with proper technique one can get by without it. Again, that is just my opinion on this.
 

LOBALOT

Professional
I am just thinking in general one is not going to learn how to restring a racquet you are going to need to learn without it. However, I am really not meaning anything negative of your approach. I just feel with proper technique one can get by without it. Again, that is just my opinion on this.
Man... I should not post so late! I certainly wasn't very articulate. Sorry.

First I should say I have never used the weaving aid.

I am just wondering if perhaps it depends on what one wants from stringing racquets. If it is just a mater of getting their own racquets done and do it as quickly as possible with limited wear on the strings while they are installed or if one is learning to string racquets as a new skill / hobby.

In my case I have enjoyed learning to weave cross strings without the assistance of a weaving tool.

Anyway, sorry @TagUrIt I didn't mean anything negative about the device.
 

smboogie

Rookie
Great work! I have been contemplating getting a stringer myself but don't want to fall into the pit of being the local stringer for my buddies.
 

SteveI

Legend
Great work! I have been contemplating getting a stringer myself but don't want to fall into the pit of being the local stringer for my buddies.
Get the stringer.... You can pick who you would like to string for. Also.. don't do it for free. Folks feel if they are paying they are getting value for their money.

I used to give a few free tennis lessons and folks would tend not to take them seriously. Change them a fair price and see the difference.
 

LOBALOT

Professional
Get the stringer.... You can pick who you would like to string for. Also.. don't do it for free. Folks feel if they are paying they are getting value for their money.

I used to give a few free tennis lessons and folks would tend not to take them seriously. Change them a fair price and see the difference.
I agree. Plus, you can use the money to pay off the stringer and tools.
 

zinzan8

Rookie
Just curious why would you recommend to cross weave without using it?
Just curious why, in your first post after buying your stringer, you said you were sure traditionalists would consider your weaving tool an abomination?
 

TagUrIt

Hall of Fame
Just curious why, in your first post after buying your stringer, you said you were sure traditionalists would consider your weaving tool an abomination?
I think most stringers learned the traditional way of stringing. It’s been described as an art form and some people are very passionate about it. The tool I have is basically short cutting the experience. I personally look at it as working smarter not harder, but everyone has their perspective.
 

alidisperanza

Hall of Fame
I will, thanks. Yeah, I do t have a starting clamp. Need to get one. Knots are not my strong suit. I’ve watched videos on the Parnell knot before, but that was before I actually started stringing. I used the TW video on stringing as a guide the first time and in it, Andy used a starting knot to start the crosses.
Yeahhh the barrel starting knot is the way to go for crosses. You can start with the PK but I've always just went barrel. A little tip for when you do, hold the tail end that gets fed through the barrel with pliers as you tension your first cross. Slippery strings can take up the slack of the tail and/or suck the knot into the grommet. By holding the tail end while you tension it'll sit pretty and won't crush the grommet, it'll flare out.
 

BDAZ

Professional
So, here is the second job I did, where I massively mis-wove.



My third job, I nicked the mains when I was cutting the excess from the knot and ruined that string job. It was with the same Head string as above, so at least I still had half of the set, so I used that as the cross with the 40 year old gut I found (from the above post). Strung up this Dunlop.




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esm

Hall of Fame
So, here is the second job I did, where I massively mis-wove.
(y)
can i ask where is that mis-weave?
on my very first job, i had about 3... they were on top, towards one side and towards the bottom part of the string bed.... i played with it anyway, and didn't feel it affected anything TBH.... i don't know what'd feel like if a mis-weave is right in the middle of the string bed... 8-B
 

BDAZ

Professional
(y)
can i ask where is that mis-weave?
on my very first job, i had about 3... they were on top, towards one side and towards the bottom part of the string bed.... i played with it anyway, and didn't feel it affected anything TBH.... i don't know what'd feel like if a mis-weave is right in the middle of the string bed... 8-B
Here you go. Haven’t played with it other than tossing myself a few balls in the driveway, so I can’t really say how it plays. In the middle cross-section there, the main and cross don’t even touch. Hahaha.




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LOBALOT

Professional
That is the "Spinseptional" portion of the racquet face. When you need some extra special mojo on the ball hit it there!
 

BDAZ

Professional
Hi all! Question... do I start stringing from top or bottom if there are 10 holes in the bridge? I have a Pacific X-Force Pro 18x20 and there are 10 holes. Thanks!
 
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