Flying clamp used as starting clamp for cross?

Pctopcool

Rookie
Hi, a new bargain basement stringer here.

I am about to string my first gut poly hybrid, and just learned that I need a starting clamp for the cross, to avoid starting knot on the gut main. I have only two flying clamps, and no starting clamp. But since I only need one flying clamp for the cross, I am wondering if I can use the other flying clamp as a starting clamp.

I have a gamma X2 stringer with two gamma composite clamps. I'll probably get a proper starting clamp once the price becomes not that rediculous.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Leave a string long enough to to go to the tensioner and clamp the top cross outside the frame putting a scrap string in the free side of the flying clamp. Then tension the second and 3rd crosses.
 
Leave a string long enough to to go to the tensioner and clamp the top cross outside the frame putting a scrap string in the free side of the flying clamp. Then tension the second and 3rd crosses.

Thanks a lot! Will give it a try!
 
[1] Make your own starting pin/string ala Klippermate's idea if you do not have a starting clamp.
[2] Just tie a starting knot, weave cross 1 and 2, pull and clamp. Add 2-4# to ref tension just for these 2 crosses.
[3] Start your crosses like you start your mains. Weave to 1st cross and tie a finishing knot.
 
[1] Make your own starting pin/string ala Klippermate's idea if you do not have a starting clamp.
[2] Just tie a starting knot, weave cross 1 and 2, pull and clamp. Add 2-4# to ref tension just for these 2 crosses.
[3] Start your crosses like you start your mains. Weave to 1st cross and tie a finishing knot.

Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't thought about [1]. Will check it out to see how exactly that works.
 
[1] Make your own starting pin/string ala Klippermate's idea if you do not have a starting clamp.
Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't thought about [1]. Will check it out to see how exactly that works.

@Pctopcool,

On paper, using a starting pin/string might seem like a good/easy solution.
However, in actual practice, you'll find that it's not going to be that intuitive/simple (to implement for starting crosses at the top of the frame).
The specific reason(s) for this are numerous & too wordy for me to type it all out.

Nonetheless, I'd suggest taking a different approach.
 
I hate to say it but I don’t think the quality starting clamp prices will be dropping anytime soon. Bite the bullet and shell out for a decent one. In the mean time see above instructions.
 
I'd say that using Irvin's approach is fine, but instead of using a scrap piece of string, use the cross string and loop it around the clamp. There's less chance of the string slipping out this way.
 
I'd say that using Irvin's approach is fine, but instead of using a scrap piece of string, use the cross string and loop it around the clamp. There's less chance of the string slipping out this way.


Although this could be done, it would require that section/loop of string to be awfully long (as in, unnecessarily so), since it would need to be long enough to reach all the way to the back of the rotational gripper and then reach all the way back to the flying clamp (which is acting as a "starting clamp").
That means that loop of string would need to be more than 3 feet long.

I would use a scrap piece of string (or cut a 3" piece, for this very purpose, from the cross string itself) to reside in the "other" side of the flying clamp.
This then allows the "tail" of the top cross (exiting the flying clamp) to be only the length required to reach the rotational gripper (somewhere in the neighborhood of 18"-20").

@Pctopcool,
Have you already done the racquet? At this point, I would imagine that you probably have.
If not, I can show you a couple of viable solutions.
 
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I'd say that using Irvin's approach is fine, but instead of using a scrap piece of string, use the cross string and loop it around the clamp. There's less chance of the string slipping out this way.
How do you free the clamp when you’re ready to tie off the top cross. I thought about that but I didn’t like the idea of using a flying clamp inside the frame the just removing that outer clamp considering that top cross needs to be tensioned and could stretch out as much as ~1/4” depending on the string.
 
Yeah, you 2 are right. I must have been snoozing when I made that assessment. I always use a starting knot anyway when I do a 2-piece. Never had any problems with one, so don't see a need to change now. What I'd probably do is clamp off on the inside of the racket at the end of cross #1 and beginning of cross #2. Still going to have to pull 2 crosses at once with the flying clamps.
 
Another option is to run in the top 2 crosses and clamp inside the frame next to where the 1st and 2nd cross exit the frame. There tension and clamp 3 crosses befor going back to the top. Tension the tail and move the clamp down to the 2nd and 3rd cross then remove the tension and tension the 2nd and 1st crosses. You may need a strap wrench to free the string but it should work.
 
Thanks all for the great advices! Really appreciate it!

Just wanted to report back what I did. I ended up going the route @Irvin suggested

Leave a string long enough to to go to the tensioner and clamp the top cross outside the frame putting a scrap string in the free side of the flying clamp. Then tension the second and 3rd crosses.

The process went smoother than I expected. The gamma clamp came with an adjustment knob, which I tightened slightly higher than the typical tightness when used as a flying clamp. Perhaps it's not needed, but adds a peace of mind.

The finished job looks good. The good thing is the first cross feels tighter than using the starting knot method. The only downside is that it needs 8 more inches of string to reach the tensioner. But that's fine.

Next time, I will try other methods suggested here. Although the results won't make any difference to my tennis level, it's always fun to explore. Thanks again for all your helps!
 
@Pctopcool is you use a starting knot with flying clamp you probably would double pull the top 2 crosses with your first pull. The only other option I would use is to tension the top cross and clamp that single cross with one half your flying clamp. It will hold tension on the top cross while you tension and clamp the 2nd cross.
 
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