Help moving from dropweight to crank

Andyslice

New User
I’ve been using a gamma drop weight stringer with steinway triple clamps. I checked the tension with a digital calibration tool and it’s spot on. I used the same calibration tool on the lockout ( gamma 6000) and after a 5?second settling, i got my usual tension of 50(53 at moment of lockout). However, racquet tune puts me at 56 pounds and the stings are stiff as a board. not sure to believe the current calibration on the unit, the digital calibrator or the resulting tension on racquet tune?
 
You probably inputted the wrong string factor. SF is mass per meter iirc. But it should be when the string is pulled to ref tension. The un pulled or un stretched SF is way too high. If you used the DB you don’t know what ref tension was used if at all so I do not recommend using them. RT will derive SF if you read the manual.
 
@Andyslice i think you would be better off using the calibration at lock out and not let it set for 50 seconds. All string won’t lose tension at the same rate. Too many variables trying to get a string bed tension by adjusting the reference tension. When you get done playing around find a reference tension setting you like and stay with that. If you’re stringing for others then you have to make sure your machine is calibrated correctly.
 
You have a new machine, you need to find your tension number. Your previous machine was not as robust a build as your new lock out. Given that, your new machine will string tighter.

Your reference tension is just a number, find your new number. Put down the app, it’ll only mess with your head.
 
ok… so I’ll calibrate to the peak tension and not the settled tension and the find my actual tension through a few string jobs of trial and error. I’m just surprised that at the same clamping tension, the drop weight with tri clamps ended up at 50.3 pounds and the lockout at 55.8 pounds. Given same skill of stringer, is it really typical to have a 6 pound differential between the two string machines? floating clamps vs quality flying clamps?
 
the tension at moment of lockout is what you should be measuring, it is not a constant pull. i would recalibrate the crank/lockout.
 
Btw, i was having problems with camps slipping at the string and glide bar levels. I took the clamps apart and used dw40 and course sandpaper. I also did the same for the glide bars. Snow the tension will hold but only at a clamp pressure that I think is too strong. Anything else I Can do or try to get no slipping with a more normal or less clamp pressure?
 
ok… so I’ll calibrate to the peak tension and not the settled tension and the find my actual tension through a few string jobs of trial and error. I’m just surprised that at the same clamping tension, the drop weight with tri clamps ended up at 50.3 pounds and the lockout at 55.8 pounds. Given same skill of stringer, is it really typical to have a 6 pound differential between the two string machines? floating clamps vs quality flying clamps?
Yes, the clamps you are using now do a better job of holding the string at tension. And, IMO, the crank is doing a more consistent job of applying tension to each string - others may disagree but your experience mimics mine when I went from a drop weight to a crank many years ago.
 
Thanks everyone. Especially Wes who spent a fair amount of time helping me via a phone call. I'm going to clean my clamps and glide bars one more time and then find my tension. Hopefully, I will get it dialed in before long.
 
So, I cleaned the gliders and clamps a second tip with 91 alcohol and a tooth brush. Let's say that they are very clean and free of lubricant. The strings no longer slip from the string side at all. However, there is slippage on the glide bar side of the clamp unless the clamp force is strong enough to dent the strings. I think that there is some metal that has been grinded away over the years. Is there a fix / work around for this? I was thinking of adding some copper tape to the clamp or having a new and slightly thicker glide bars made. How bad is it for the string to be squeezed so tightly?
 
I’m reading this and I’m yelling NO when the word sandpaper was used.

Years ago I simply soaked my clamps submerged in rubbing alcohol overnight and then wiped them down. These clamps had come second hand and were coated with lead tape where someone had thought that would help. TAPE WONT HELP! I soaked them and carefully peeled away the layers of tape. I never had a problem with the clamps sliding!

Clean the glide bars. Clean the clamps where they hold the string and also where they hold the glide bars. They should be fine unless someone sanded away the glide bar.
 
There is no tape on the clamps at the moment. I was asking if that might help. So no on the tape. I'd be surprised if they could get cleaner but..... I'll soak them over night. It seems like over time the clamp may have lots some metal and now needs excessive clamping force on the string to not slip on the glide bars. Would you be happier with very tight clamping with the fixed clamps or more normal clamping pressure from Stringway tricamps?
 
if you have to damage strings to hold tension without slipping, i would def not use it.
ghosting is normal, not if you physically feel string damage.
 
if you have to damage strings to hold tension without slipping, i would def not use it.
ghosting is normal, not if you physically feel string damage.
I agree!

As far as the clamps losing metal over time, that would be an amazing amount of sliding those clamps over the bars. That's not to say someone else didn't sand something down though. If your clamps end up being crap, use the floating clamps. But at that point, you'd might as well use the dropweight machine too. Or you could look for some replacement clamps elsewhere.
 
I'm going to soak the clamps in alcohol tonight and retest. I'm guessing that I'll just have to keep a fair bit more pressure on the strings than I want. I also might sting the same racket twice. Once with the fixed clamps and one with the tri clamps and see how much of a difference that makes.
 
 
if the clamps r slipping wouldn't that result in lower dynamic tension and not higher? How old is that lockout tensioner? Maybe something wrong with the lockout mechanism it's delaying the locking time some and causing higher tension being pulled.
 
The tensioner seems to be very consistent with the digital calibration tool. The clamps don’t slip at all when I use enough clamp force. I just wish They would not slip with what I m used to in regards to clamp force
 
When I started stringing a pro lent me his old Eagan's machine. The clamps had 2 settings no mater how I adjusted them....

1. Dent the String or
2. String Slip

There was no middle adjustment that could be made no mater how much I cleaned and the micro adjustments one made on the clamp.
 
Lookup threads on using diamond dust to resurface the clamp surfaces. IIRC 400-600 grit was adequate. I am not referring to clamps that use diamond dust inserts.
 
When I started stringing a pro lent me his old Eagan's machine. The clamps had 2 settings no mater how I adjusted them....

1. Dent the String or
2. String Slip

There was no middle adjustment that could be made no mater how much I cleaned and the micro adjustments one made on the clamp.
That is how mine was before multiple serious cleanings. Now Its a very strong clamp force but its not damaging the string and not slipping.
 
Lookup threads on using diamond dust to resurface the clamp surfaces. IIRC 400-600 grit was adequate. I am not referring to clamps that use diamond dust inserts.
I check out a thread that recommended 800 grit diamond dust. Is that the general recommendation? Also, the limiting slip is between the clamp and the glide bars. Can I use the diamond dust there as well?
 
No, my reference is to the clamp surfaces and the strings. 800 is fine. If your clamps are slipping because of bad contact with the glide bar, that is a different issue. Clean the area where the glide bar and clamp connect up. That area should not be slipping unless someone messed with the clamp or glide bar. If you cannot securely clamp due to issues there, you need new glide bars or new clamps. That has never happened to me on the Neos 1000.
 
Yeah, there is no slipping if I use a fair amount of force on the string. The string is not slipping but the clamp to the glide bar does slip unless I use a fair amount of clamp force. Maybe a coat of super glue on the bottom of the clamp might help?
 
Back
Top