How can I get the strings straight?

jamauss

jamauss

Hall of Fame
When I string the mains on a racquet with my machine - they end up looking like they do in the pic below. I can't figure out why. I try to align the string completely straight before and as it gets pulled. Could it have something to do with where I'm putting the clamps (I put them as close as I can to the frame) or something else? I'd like to produce completely straight looking string jobs but this is one issue I haven't been able to overcome yet. The top 2 or 3 and the bottom 2 or 3 seem to turn out pretty straight but the middle mains seem to always end up with a slight curve to them.
stringjob.jpg
 
When weaving, weave one ahead. Push the string about to be tensioned up against the previously tensioned string. After you pull the tension it will be up higher, but stillmay need a quick straightening. Do this as you go and make it part of your routine. This will help you avoid the "smiley face" syndrome of stringing. Your effort to improve and learn proper techniques is recognized and should be applauded.
 
When I string, I crank the tensioner with one hand while keeping the cross string straight with the other hand. It works for me and I never have to go back and adjust the strings.
 
serveitup911 said:
When I string, I crank the tensioner with one hand while keeping the cross string straight with the other hand. It works for me and I never have to go back and adjust the strings.
Click to expand...
I've seen the exact technique you're talking about in a video I watched once. The closest I can get to that though (since I have an electronic, constant-pull machine) is to set the tensioning to the slowest speed possible and try to keep the string straight as it tensions it - which is what I did last time - and still got the results in the image.
 
jamauss said:
When I string the mains on a racquet with my machine - they end up looking like they do in the pic below. I can't figure out why. I try to align the string completely straight before and as it gets pulled. Could it have something to do with where I'm putting the clamps (I put them as close as I can to the frame) or something else? I'd like to produce completely straight looking string jobs but this is one issue I haven't been able to overcome yet. The top 2 or 3 and the bottom 2 or 3 seem to turn out pretty straight but the middle mains seem to always end up with a slight curve to them.
stringjob.jpg
Click to expand...

I feels the same way when my stings aren't straight.
 
You mean the crosses, right? ;)

As far as keeping them straight, it's hard to do because there's no string in front of the "current" tensioned string to hold it in place. You can do a quick adjust of the current tensioned string, it will bow out a little bit (very slight). At the same time, adjust the string above it, because now that string has a string in front of it. It's more or less something you can't completely (perfectly) avoid, in my experience.
 
diredesire said:
You mean the crosses, right? ;)

As far as keeping them straight, it's hard to do because there's no string in front of the "current" tensioned string to hold it in place. You can do a quick adjust of the current tensioned string, it will bow out a little bit (very slight). At the same time, adjust the string above it, because now that string has a string in front of it. It's more or less something you can't completely (perfectly) avoid, in my experience.
Click to expand...
yeah, I mean the crosses, duh...I'm just not here today mentally...geez. Thanks for catching that.
 
jamauss said:
stringjob.jpg
Click to expand...

[drool]... lol...im hoping to pick one up sometime this week or next week :) and order another one from TW

i had the same issue not too long ago, but before i tension, i just push the strings up so that they're straight and not curved.
 
Dont sweat it too much.

My summer job is stringing racquets at Sporting Life and some raquets and string combinations just seem to come out like that no matter how much you straighten them as you string.

Really the tension loss from the curved string is minimal as long as you make the effort to straighten as the machine pulls; just straighten the strings when you are done.
 
This is a very easy thing to correct. When i finish my string job my cross strings are crroked like that. what i di is after im done ( racket still mounted) i use my awl and straighten them out by just pushing the string back alittle. do this all the way from botom to top or vice versa. before i bought a stringing machine i seen the professionals at a tennis shop do this when they finnish stinging.
 
using an awl to make the crosses straight is NOT a good practice. The tip is very sharp and its very each to hit the string and break it or make it weak at that point. What you want to use is a setting off tool, basically like an awl but much thicker with a round tip not a sharp one. Takes me about 10 seconds to do after I string a racket.
Before:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gfinger32/detail?.dir=5f26&.dnm=b600re2.jpg&.src=ph

After:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gfinger32/detail?.dir=5f26&.dnm=5c4ere2.jpg&.src=ph
 
Babak said:
Dont sweat it too much.

My summer job is stringing racquets at Sporting Life and some raquets and string combinations just seem to come out like that no matter how much you straighten them as you string.

Really the tension loss from the curved string is minimal as long as you make the effort to straighten as the machine pulls; just straighten the strings when you are done.
Click to expand...

With all due respect it is this type of inexperience that makes big boxes a place to avoid for quality racquet stringing. It is possible, in fact it is strongly preferable, for the cross strings to be installed straight, without the "smiley arch". Only by achieving a technique that allows for the strings to be installed straight will stringers be able to achieve a level of consistency that produces a like stringbed with each stringing. Ultimately consistency is king when you are looking for quality string jobs.

You would be surprised at the difference in RA units when measuring curved crosses vs. straight. I was talking with a knowledgable stringer at a local sports superstore in town and he showed me two identical racquets strung on the same machine, (Bab Star 5), using the same string at the same tension with two different stringers. (One was in training, the other an experienced pro). The experienced stringer came out several RA units stiffer than the inexperienced stringer who, as you probably guessed, produced a racquet with the smiley effect.

Bottom line is to strive for perfection and pull those crosses straight. It does make a difference and is one of the elements that separates professional stringers from amateurs. Now let's see you all go forth and strive for perfection!
 
jj300 said:
using an awl to make the crosses straight is NOT a good practice. The tip is very sharp and its very each to hit the string and break it or make it weak at that point. What you want to use is a setting off tool, basically like an awl but much thicker with a round tip not a sharp one. Takes me about 10 seconds to do after I string a racket.
Before:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gfinger32/detail?.dir=5f26&.dnm=b600re2.jpg&.src=ph

After:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gfinger32/detail?.dir=5f26&.dnm=5c4ere2.jpg&.src=ph
Click to expand...

i dont think barricade steve meant to push the crosses w/ the tip of the awl, but w/ the side, where it's nice and round. imo, it's just easier to straight the crosses before tensioning because there's less friction and it's easier to push than after stringing. also, the crosses may notch before you're even done...so it's a good way to prevent that as well
 
thank you snoflewis for clarifying what i ment. i dont use the tip if the awl i use the top. of course you still have to be carefull. not to get the tip hitting against the string cause it can a break string.
 
snoflewis said:
i dont think barricade steve meant to push the crosses w/ the tip of the awl, but w/ the side, where it's nice and round. imo, it's just easier to straight the crosses before tensioning because there's less friction and it's easier to push than after stringing. also, the crosses may notch before you're even done...so it's a good way to prevent that as well
Click to expand...

I think he was very aware of this.. who would attempt to push strings with the tip?

I agree with the fact that the sharp tip of certain awls CAN nick strings, but most of the time it's not a problem.
 
diredesire said:
I think he was very aware of this.. who would attempt to push strings with the tip?

I agree with the fact that the sharp tip of certain awls CAN nick strings, but most of the time it's not a problem.
Click to expand...

diredesire, im going to have to disagree w/ you on that one

jj300 said:
The tip is very sharp and its very each to hit the string and break it or make it weak at that point. What you want to use is a setting off tool, basically like an awl but much thicker with a round tip not a sharp one
Click to expand...

and also, what else on the round and dull side of the awl can nick the string?
 
Barricade_steve said:
I go to Eagle Rock High.. We finnished at #3 in the city.
Click to expand...

i think my school team played you guys in the city semis (?)...i go to Granada Hills
 
Barricade_steve said:
hahaa ya we lost to u in the semis... Small world... what do you play on the team.
Click to expand...

unfortunately (as big of an excuse as it may sound like :) ) i got tennis elbow a week before my tryouts, so it wasnt as good as i had hoped to play. however, i have a couple friends who play on the tennis team...i think he played #4 singles that match.

what do you play?
 
snoflewis said:
unfortunately (as big of an excuse as it may sound like :) ) i got tennis elbow a week before my tryouts, so it wasnt as good as i had hoped to play. however, i have a couple friends who play on the tennis team...i think he played #4 singles that match.

what do you play?
Click to expand...

ohhh, I play #1 singles.
 
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