How do you do hybrid combinations?

mvolkin

New User
I have never tried doing mains with one type of string and crosses for another and would like to try. My reason is because 90% of the time when I break strings its my main strings breaking. I want something durable for the mains (and arm friendly) and spin friendly for the crosses. I have a fast swing speed and produce lots of spin, so I would prefer cross strings that are low in power but have lots of bite/control.

So what do I do? Do I get two sets of strings and just cut each in half, or will I be using two sets of strings with each string job? That could get expensive. Any good suggested combos based on my profile?
 
Do I get two sets of strings and just cut each in half

Yup. That's pretty much it. Just be mindful of the specific frame you're using (e.g. I did two Blade 98 18x20's today and 20' is barely enough for the mains, had to bridge with a starting clamp on the last mains).
 
One string in the mains. Whatever you want..
And a different string, in the crosses...

For baby steps, you can even try..
Same string in the mains and crosses.
But using different gauges......yep different gauges...
The thinner will soften it up....like more pop...
I normally recommend this two the apprehensive player, venturing into the world stringbed scenarios...
 
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I have never tried doing mains with one type of string and crosses for another and would like to try. My reason is because 90% of the time when I break strings its my main strings breaking. I want something durable for the mains (and arm friendly) and spin friendly for the crosses. I have a fast swing speed and produce lots of spin, so I would prefer cross strings that are low in power but have lots of bite/control.

So what do I do? Do I get two sets of strings and just cut each in half, or will I be using two sets of strings with each string job? That could get expensive. Any good suggested combos based on my profile?
gamma zo verve mains, big ace micro crosses. Keep notes and number your frames.
 
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I have never tried doing mains with one type of string and crosses for another and would like to try. My reason is because 90% of the time when I break strings its my main strings breaking. I want something durable for the mains (and arm friendly) and spin friendly for the crosses. I have a fast swing speed and produce lots of spin, so I would prefer cross strings that are low in power but have lots of bite/control.

So what do I do? Do I get two sets of strings and just cut each in half, or will I be using two sets of strings with each string job? That could get expensive. Any good suggested combos based on my profile?

Word of warning... you are about to wander down a rabbit hole... meaning, once you enter, you may never leave. The possibilities are endless.
You might try your favorite poly in the main, and a good multi in the cross. Then you restring, but you change the tension on one to see the difference. Then you change the tension on both to see the difference, then you try the poly in the cross and the multi in the main just to see what it plays like. Then you keep the same poly in the main, but use a different multi in the cross...

etc...

etc...

etc...

You will never get to the bottom, and will always be searching for the perfect combination. Then, you switch racquets and it starts all over again.

My suggestion. Keep notes. Record the exact string, gauge, tension how it felt, how was the spin, how was the power, did the strings move, etc. If you tried a combination, was it better or worse if you raised or lowered a tension on either the main or the cross. Keep notes. When you find something you like, use that as your baseline to compare all the following combinations to.
 
If you want to start out simple and cheap try a poly with gosen micro sheep syngut.

I'm using the gosen (17g) in the mains and a cheap soft poly in the crosses at 54/48lbs.
 
I have never tried doing mains with one type of string and crosses for another and would like to try. My reason is because 90% of the time when I break strings its my main strings breaking. I want something durable for the mains (and arm friendly) and spin friendly for the crosses. I have a fast swing speed and produce lots of spin, so I would prefer cross strings that are low in power but have lots of bite/control.

So what do I do? Do I get two sets of strings and just cut each in half, or will I be using two sets of strings with each string job? That could get expensive. Any good suggested combos based on my profile?
What string and gauge do you use? How long before the break? Everything seems to be relative, so need a base to start from. If you are currently playing with a multi, you could try the same multi in the cross and then a soft poly in the main for added spin and lower power.

I think for low power and spin friendly, lots of polys fit the bill and are used in the mains. Folks might soften that up with a synthetic gut in the crosses to go easy on the arm.
If you want to start out simple and cheap try a poly with gosen micro sheep syngut.
I bought a reel of OGSM for my experimentation. I use the sgut in the cross at the same tension as a constant. Then I change the main to whatever string is reported to have the characteristics I'm looking for. Since I'll cut the set in half, I have two tries and dialing in the right tension.
 
mvolkin, you didn't say which string you are current using and that makes it difficult to recommend. You said you are breaking mains, have a fast swing and generate good spin.

If you are playing with gut, multi or syn gut; then obviously using either all poly; or poly mains with a soft cross (syn gut or multi) would be worth a try. If you are already using all poly and are breaking mains too fast, your best bet might be to try a thicker poly gauge or a poly with better "breakability". If you are using a twisted or rough poly, you might be better off switching to a smooth poly or at least a smooth poly cross with the textured poly in the mains.
 
Even tho I've been stringing my own for about 15 years, I am continually surprised by the process.

I've been trying different string combos, mostly poly mains and multi crosses. Strung up a hybrid yesterday before a combo match... ball was flying all over the place. Had to switch racquets I was getting so frustrated. Lost besides.

Came home, ripped the brand new strings out less than 8 hours after I strung them with only 2 sets on them. Restrung the same racquet with the same hybrid but both M and C 2 pounds heavier. Played today, and everything was golden. Balls in play, return of serve, good volleys, felt good, solid spin and serve direction, etc.

Just a reminder to me and to newbies, the correct tension for your game and your racquet makes an amazing difference. In some ways, I think the tension makes more of a difference than the strings. You could be stringing gut or the hottest new spin poly, but if you have the wrong tension you are going to hate the strings.
 
Just a reminder to me and to newbies, the correct tension for your game and your racquet makes an amazing difference. In some ways, I think the tension makes more of a difference than the strings. You could be stringing gut or the hottest new spin poly, but if you have the wrong tension you are going to hate the strings.
Totally agree.

My son played a tournament this weekend. Started with fresh strings on his 2nd racquet which is identical. Same strings, same tension as his first racquet. But one was 1mo old with 15hrs of play and the other was two days old with no play. The strings played so differently and was messing him up so he pulled out the racquet with the worn strings and finished the match with it.
 
Totally agree.

My son played a tournament this weekend. Started with fresh strings on his 2nd racquet which is identical. Same strings, same tension as his first racquet. But one was 1mo old with 15hrs of play and the other was two days old with no play. The strings played so differently and was messing him up so he pulled out the racquet with the worn strings and finished the match with it.
Well if one racquet was being used for a month, the tensions are not even close to "the same"
 
Well if one racquet was being used for a month, the tensions are not even close to "the same"
True. Tensions not same at all. That was my point.
His 1mo racquet sat in his bag for about two weeks prior to playing due to his shoulder injury.

So kind of points to maybe stringing his racquet a bit less tension next time.
 
True. Tensions not same at all. That was my point.
His 1mo racquet sat in his bag for about two weeks prior to playing due to his shoulder injury.

So kind of points to maybe stringing his racquet a bit less tension next time.
Definitely! No reason not to if he was playing well with them
 
Definitely! No reason not to if he was playing well with them
So the follow up question is.. We all agree that the poly (Cyclone 17) loses tension faster than S-gut (OGSM). Would the Gamma string tension meter be a good tool to "guess" what the tension losses were?

Basically measure his old strings and new strings as they sit now to reference what tension he liked?
 
So the follow up question is.. We all agree that the poly (Cyclone 17) loses tension faster than S-gut (OGSM). Would the Gamma string tension meter be a good tool to "guess" what the tension losses were?

Basically measure his old strings and new strings as they sit now to reference what tension he liked?
Sure you could do that, or just lower his base tension by 5 pounds as a start
 
Sure you could do that, or just lower his base tension by 5 pounds as a start
Would you lower both the poly and the s-gut the same?

I just measured both racquets with a Tourna Spring Meter just now. Strangely, they measure fairly close to each other. About 50m and 41c. How strange…
 
Totally agree.

My son played a tournament this weekend. Started with fresh strings on his 2nd racquet which is identical. Same strings, same tension as his first racquet. But one was 1mo old with 15hrs of play and the other was two days old with no play. The strings played so differently and was messing him up so he pulled out the racquet with the worn strings and finished the match with it.

Have him rotate racquets every 2-3 sets or split time during practice so they wear the same.
 
So the follow up question is.. We all agree that the poly (Cyclone 17) loses tension faster than S-gut (OGSM). Would the Gamma string tension meter be a good tool to "guess" what the tension losses were?

Basically measure his old strings and new strings as they sit now to reference what tension he liked?
I use the racquet tune app, and I will monitor the tension drop over time based on the first 'tune' (reference point) I do from the stringer (keep all types of strings and gauges), enter in all your racquets. I think it's ballparking the tension but definitely you will see a trend... probably similar to the Gamma tension meter but an alternative.
 
Have him rotate racquets every 2-3 sets or split time during practice so they wear the same.
Apparently I have to pick up a good scale and build a balance board because the two racquets he has that are supposed to be identical feel differently to him when he swings it. I have to concur with him that one of his racquet feels noticeably heavier. But when I put them on a cheap kitchen scale, they are the same.
 
Very true. Having the same mass does not mean you have the same balance point and swing weight. Balance point is easy to do. I use the edge of a table and measure when the head begins to left off the table. Subtract that measurement from the overall length of the frame and you have the balance point. For SW, use TWU's calculator or the SW app if you have an iOS device. If you have an iOS device, consider getting Racquettune since it is more accurate than the 'stringmeters.'
 
Very true. Having the same mass does not mean you have the same balance point and swing weight. Balance point is easy to do. I use the edge of a table and measure when the head begins to left off the table. Subtract that measurement from the overall length of the frame and you have the balance point. For SW, use TWU's calculator or the SW app if you have an iOS device. If you have an iOS device, consider getting Racquettune since it is more accurate than the 'stringmeters.'
Good tips!

I think I can find an edge of a table somewhere in my house. :D

I've got several ios devices. Been trying to stay away from iTunes. But I guess the end justifies the means... Racquettune.
 
Apparently I have to pick up a good scale and build a balance board because the two racquets he has that are supposed to be identical feel differently to him when he swings it. I have to concur with him that one of his racquet feels noticeably heavier. But when I put them on a cheap kitchen scale, they are the same.
switching from full poly bed to full syngut bed same gauge (17) was 5 grams different for me, poly string was 5 grams heavier that changed my balance by 1HL and increased swingweight by 3
 
switching from full poly bed to full syngut bed same gauge (17) was 5 grams different for me, poly string was 5 grams heavier that changed my balance by 1HL and increased swingweight by 3
Inertia is additive if you add weight anywhere on the frame the inertia goes up. The farther the weight from the pivot the greater the increase. The oly way to decrease inertia to to reduce the weight by taking some off, The farther the removed weight was from the pivot the greater the decrease in inertia. What you saying is (you took 5 grams of mass off the head of the racket and inertia went up) impossible. I suggest you check it again.
 
Inertia is additive if you add weight anywhere on the frame the inertia goes up. The farther the weight from the pivot the greater the increase. The oly way to decrease inertia to to reduce the weight by taking some off, The farther the removed weight was from the pivot the greater the decrease in inertia. What you saying is (you took 5 grams of mass off the head of the racket and inertia went up) impossible. I suggest you check it again.
what I am saying is the poly is 5 grams heavier it increased sw by 3 and may balance was 1 point toward head or in simple term nylon is 5 grams lighter, it will be 1-1.5 HL and sw will be 3 points or so lower.
 
@saleem that sounds more reasonable adding 5 g at about 3&9 (average distance of the string bed) will raise the balance 3 mm (1 point) but it will raise the sw by about 5 points. Discrepancies now could easily just be calculations.
 
Even tho I've been stringing my own for about 15 years, I am continually surprised by the process.
. . .
Just a reminder to me and to newbies, the correct tension for your game and your racquet makes an amazing difference. In some ways, I think the tension makes more of a difference than the strings. You could be stringing gut or the hottest new spin poly, but if you have the wrong tension you are going to hate the strings.

I've started stringing two years ago and agree, getting the right tension for the string in the racquet model you are using is key. Whenever I find a new string to try I buy a minimum of three packs. I string the first pack, hit with it and then cut it out after a few days. Then, I restring it to compensate for the deficiencies I experienced during play. The third set I either save to play the set up again, try it in a different racquet model, or experiment with it in a hybrid set up with some of my other favorite strings. Probably overkill in the minds of some guys here that string, but I really enjoy the process.
 
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