How do you weave crosses with Poly?

I tried to do the "snake" thing like in the videos.
I was unable as the friction was too much after 1 or 2 weaves.

At some point, I needed to yank the string with a pliers to get some slack.
So, it seems physically impossible to weave snake Poly like those magical videos wizards.

Can someone post a video showing the best way to weave Poly?
When exactly should you have slack?
I tried with slack. Without slack. I tried some slack, then weave a few, then more slack.

Nothing really worked well.
At times, I resorted to putting the string PARALLEL to the mains, and just passing it thru, side by side.
Or I weaved one string at a time like I was knitting.

With my lack of consistent method, I often skipped a main and had to redo the cross.
 
It gets easier the more you string. Also highly recommend weaving ‘one ahead’ helps make the weave easier.
 
Here is a video that shows weaving poly. If you notice I’m also weaving one ahead. Another tip I don’t point out in the video is that I’m alway pulling the string up the frame (up to the tip when weaving down.) That way the stiffness of the string and its curl (coil memory) pulls the string across the mains so I can push it up or down for the next weave.
 
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There are a variety of weaving methods and some are more efficient than others depending on the string type.

Try the pull weave instead of the push weave ("snake thing" as you termed it).
 
I was watching the "One ahead" method.
How do you weave one ahead with a drop weight?
You do not have the end of the string available, since it's woven into the 1 ahead
 
I usually string full bed of poly around 60 lbs, so I have the same problem. I do almost the same thing for the last few crosses as @Irvin does in the video above. Up to there, I use another technic @Irvin showed in another video. Just take 3 to 4 inches of the loose end, weave past a couple of mains utilizing the looseness, pull the string a little to regain the length of 3 to 4 inches, and repeat it a few times. It’s not fast but I can go easily and steadily.
 
I was watching the "One ahead" method.
How do you weave one ahead with a drop weight?
You do not have the end of the string available, since it's woven into the 1 ahead

Um, you just wrap the "middle" of the string. Think about it: no matter what method you choose, you're not wrapping the end of the string around the gripper, you're wrapping the part of the string exiting the grommet closest to the cross being tensioned.
 
Quickly. It all comes with practice. I learned to string doing mostly poly so syn gut or multis are actually harder for me to weave because they move so much so I have less control.
 
I was watching the "One ahead" method.
How do you weave one ahead with a drop weight?
You do not have the end of the string available, since it's woven into the 1 ahead
When you weave one ahead, you always leave a loop big enough to wrap around your tensioner. If you are stringing your crosses with 1/2 set, then it should be long enough to weave one ahead even for your last two weaves.

Weaving poly crosses is not much fun. You gotta be patient. You will get better. Use the two finger method over and over again until you get good at it. It takes practice. But you will improve.
 
I did another racket.

I got my time down to about 2 hours.

This time I did the one ahead method. It was hard to see if it actually made a difference.
The tensioned string is pushing down, but the next loose string is still pushing it up, a little bit.
 
One tip that will help if you are not already doing it -- make sure you pull enough string when starting each cross to reach the other side of the racquet with some extra length left over. Pushing shorter lengths of poly makes things much more difficult. Also, do this with natural gut to avoid twisting and kinking.
 
One tip that will help if you are not already doing it -- make sure you pull enough string when starting each cross to reach the other side of the racquet with some extra length left over. Pushing shorter lengths of poly makes things much more difficult. Also, do this with natural gut to avoid twisting and kinking.
I can't thread more than up/down/up before the string gets stuck. Poly?
 
Practice example:

Suppose the cross you wish to weave goes from left to right.
1) pull more string than you needs for the cross, let's say 15 inches, through the left side grommet.
Choose one from 2a or 2b:
2a) weave diagonally "down" toward throat and the diagonally up toward target grommet hole - if you are using a push weave technique
OR
2b) make a loop of string close to the grommet and work your way across by pulling small sections of that extra 15 nch length (this has the slack in it).

Pull weave demonstrated in Richard Parnell's video (just watch a minute of it from 4:45 or so):
 
Watching the video, I think I noticed something that might mean I do this wrong. When pulling tension on crosses I release the previous clamp before applying the "new" clamp. It looks like Irvin always leaves that previous clamp on until clamping again on the same side. I release only while tension is "on"... But essentially, during the brief period where the string is pulling, all clamps are off. The guy I watched a few times before I started trying to string myself did it this way.... I think. Is that wrong?
 
I can't thread more than up/down/up before the string gets stuck. Poly?

Are you weaving at an angle? Much easier this way. As stated in my original post, as soon as the string clears the grommet pull a generous length of string, then weave at a 45-degree angle, which should get you to the half-way point of the stringbed in one shot. This technique is effective with poly and non-poly string, but the going is slower with poly -- especially when you are still in the learning stages.
 
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Don't baby the strings (especially poly). Firmly grip the string and show who's the boss. Helps if you have callouses from other sports/work.

Weave one ahead until you get to last few crosses then weave in a spiral (poly only) - make sort of a spring before pulling and tensioning.
 
Are you weaving at an angle? Much easier this way. As stated in my original post, as soon as the string clears the grommet pull a generous length of string, then weave at a 45-degree angle, which should get you to the half-way point of the stringbed in one shot. This technique is effective with poly and non-poly string, but the going is slower with poly -- especially when you are still in the learning stages.

This. Meaning pull some string/slack through the grommet before weaving each cross to minimize friction.

And by weaving at an angle, this means going diagonally across the face of the racket rather than straight across. Does that make sense?

And just to note, the video posted aboved doesn't utilize the pulling of slack through the grommet first, but does show weaving at an angle.
 
This. Meaning pull some string/slack through the grommet before weaving each cross to minimize friction.

And by weaving at an angle, this means going diagonally across the face of the racket rather than straight across. Does that make sense?

And just to note, the video posted aboved doesn't utilize the pulling of slack through the grommet first, but does show weaving at an angle.
Not sure which video you referring to but both of them does pull slack though before weaving, both use one ahead, and both weave diagonally at an angle.

EDIT: Except in the center where weaving is easy R Parnell just did an easy push weave.
 
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Not sure which video you referring to but both of them does pull slack though before weaving, both use one ahead, and both weave diagonally at an angle.

EDIT: Except in the center where weaving is easy R Parnell just did an easy push weave.

I was speaking of the Parnell video, and must have skipped ahead to the middle crosses. At any rate, considering the OP is claiming he barely gets through 3 weaves before getting stuck, probably good practice for him to pull slack even for the center crosses where "weaving is easy".
 
@loosegroove - That @Richard Parnell video is rich in stringing and weaving techniques.

The first six crosses (bottom cross at 4:45, top five) use the pull weave AND he pulls length inside the frame before proceeding. As observed by @Imago, the OP could slow down the video to watch the pulling technique. The OP could continue watching the remainder for other techniques.

@Irvin shows the same at a more deliberate pace because he is using poly crosses with kevlar mains. The slower pace should also assist @TimeToPlaySets.
 
2 hours?? I hope you are including the string removal, changing grommets, power pads, regripping and cooking yourself a nice dinner. Just joking.

At one point in time stringers dreaded stringing polyesters. But now that they are so common, stringing polyesters is my "standard". I feel relieved when I get a mulifilament or synthetic gut string job. If you think polyester is a chore, try string an Eforce racquetball racquet with power strings, a badminton racquet or stringing with natural gut. Natural gut isn't as rigid as polyester but you have to take extra care. Any false move and you cost yourself $40-$60.
 
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