How I increased grip size without adding weight.

sarthak809

New User
Heat shrink sleeves are too heavy, balsa wood is a cumbersome process. So I came up with a unique idea.

I bought a Babolat aeropro drive GT last week. It was a highly discounted piece, since it had L2 grip size, which doesn't sell easily (here in India at least). I had pre-planned to put a full size heat shrink sleeve to increase the grip size. Installed the sleeve immediately after buying, but it changed the balance drastically. I could have put lead tape on the hoop to counter-balance, but I didn't wanna increase the overall weight.

So, I removed the heat shrink sleeve. I planned on increasing the grip size using two overgrips somehow.
But that makes the grip round as a broom, right? I knew, so I kept thinking, how to retain the edges without adding weight. I finally came up with this idea using material already lying in my store room.

I put a PTFE thread seal tape (feather light and thin, normally used in plumbing) TIGHTLY on top of the original grip, in spiral pattern just like an overgrip (else the wires would have sunk into the original grip due to compression). Then, I put thin wires (single wires, not all 4) cut out from a 4 core telephone cable on that layer with very thin strips of electrical insulation tape, exactly on the bevel edges. The width of electrical tape strips is around twice the diameter of the wire, to avoid adding too much weight.

B0589360267.jpg


I straightened each wire, then taped them on the teflon layer. By wire I mean the different wires like red, yellow etc as a whole, not just the inner metal wire. After that I put a PERFORATED overgrip without removing the protective plastic film from it, so as to avoid the topmost overgrip from sticking.

I checked the bevel shape again, the edges were arrow straight and well defined. Finally I put another overgrip on top. Both the overgrips were installed as tightly as possible to minimize the spongy feeling. The original syntec grip is already too spongy.

So, Now I have a L3 sized grip with minimal increase in weight. I played with it for 2 days, even other players didn't find any difference in weight. I do plan to put lead tape at 3 and 9' o clock for more lateral stability though.
 
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Great write-up and a great idea.

I was actually worried that you had cut 1/8" off each finger of your right hand since this is the easiest (but not the least painful) way of effectively and weightlessly increasing your grip size! :p
 
Hehe, had a great laugh. Please stop pulling my leg. I wrote that for the sake of an attractive title.

BTW I am not saying that I'm a genius or something, but didn't other guys try something like this before? I mean trying to use two overgrips while still retaining the bevel edges? I did search a lot on this forum and the whole internet. None of the ideas were as simple as mine.
 
Nice idea!

I personally prefer a grip size somewhere between an L3 and an L4. So I use 3 layers of brown sellotape on the pallet, below the replacement grip. Doesn't add a lot of weight, but I should still check how much it changes the balance by
 
To increase by one grip size with only 3 or 4g additional, I use gauze tape. I take a strip the length of twice an over grip length. Then I wrap it with a 1/2 overlap. I add the replacement grip on top and the bevels come through very nicely. With some grips you could build it up even more with an over grip and still get good bevels. Gamma Hi Tech replacement grip is one that comes to mind that maintains excellent bevels.
 
I use thick, heavy fabric tape and then use a pencil to flatten down the bevels by 'brushing' it with pressure up and down the handle. It compresses the tape, removing all looseness and softness and the edges really pop up. It does add some weigh but not that much; plus I don't mind a few extra grams at the handle.
 
All great ideas for increasing the grip size without adding too much weight.

@sarthak809, I will be interested to see how your mod holds up over a few months. I'm sure it will be fine.

Obviously, it is best to buy a racquet with the appropriate grip size. But as you say, with superceded racquets we can't always find exactly what we want so customisation is a good alternative.

In my case, I like the APD to be quite heavy so a heat-shrink sleeve gives me the ideal solution without much fiddling around. I just have to be careful when applying it so that the final result doesn't hinder the ability to open up the butt-cap trap door to add extra weight and dampening using Blu-Tack.
 
Glad to hear so many different ideas. I am sure those tapes work as well. I have found out after playing for 4 days with this modded grip is that with time the edges (wires) become even more prominent as the spongy grip starts to sink in. I can feel the edges so clearly, it's like playing with a single original grip.
Not only that, I have placed the wires strategically so as to increase the width of bevels 2,4,6,8 which is easier for my semi western grip. Now my handle looks exactly like those round ones of Head, Wilson etc.

@Karma Tennis
Even I would like to make it heavier, but heat shrink sleeve is too much for me, since I would have to put equal weight on the hoop to counter balance. I am a fan of the current 7 pt HL balance. I don't wanna change it at all. I do plan to put around 10 gms lead tape inside buttcap and on the hoop to increase overall weight evenly.
Should I put two 5 gram tapes at 3 and 9 o clock instead of one 10 gm at 12 o clock (for stability)?
 
Should I put two 5 gram tapes at 3 and 9 o clock instead of one 10 gm at 12 o clock (for stability)?

For stability, you would want the weights at 3 and 9. It'll increase the twistweight, which'll give you the added stabity. A little increase in power too. Weight at 12 will increase the power a fair bit, but no increase in stability.

Also, 10 gms is a HUGE increment in weight at the hoop. I'd suggest a gradual increase as you keep testing how it affects your game. You can use the TW University customization worksheet to keep checking the twistweight and swingweight changes. (twistweights ~15 and above make a racquet unwieldy for most)
 
@Karma Tennis
Even I would like to make it heavier, but heat shrink sleeve is too much for me, since I would have to put equal weight on the hoop to counter balance. I am a fan of the current 7 pt HL balance. I don't wanna change it at all. I do plan to put around 10 gms lead tape inside buttcap and on the hoop to increase overall weight evenly.
Should I put two 5 gram tapes at 3 and 9 o clock instead of one 10 gm at 12 o clock (for stability)?

Weight at 3/9 stabilises the twisting of the racquet and widens the sweet spot. Great for flat-hitters.

Weight at 12 polarises the racquet and lengthens the sweet spot towards the tip a bit. Great for players who can generate a lot of whip and racquet head speed. It's ideal for producing heavy balls with lots of top-spin potential and great slice.

If you are a consistent clean hitter try 5 grams at 12.

If you don't like all of the weight at 12 and/or you aren't a clean hitter, try 2.5 grams at 11 and 1 (total 5g).

Consider using Blu-Tack on the inside of the hoop as a temporary way of adding weight. It will stay in place and it is very easy to work with. Once you are happy with your customisation you can make it permanent using lead or tungsten tape.
 
shorten the fingers

Don't know if you are joking but your suggestion is on the right track - sort of.

You don't shorten your fingers, you make them fatter. You do that by taping them up. Fattening up the fingers will make the grip of the racquet actually feel bigger. Just make sure you use the right sort of material so that you can still hold the handle properly.
 
Don't know if you are joking but your suggestion is on the right track - sort of.

You don't shorten your fingers, you make them fatter. You do that by taping them up. Fattening up the fingers will make the grip of the racquet actually feel bigger. Just make sure you use the right sort of material so that you can still hold the handle properly.

Maybe Donald Trump mistakenly bought too small a grip hence his small hand thing...
 
Hi lwto, does this come in different thicknesses? Which did u use and how many layers? Thx

Verstuurd vanaf mijn XT1562 met Tapatalk

I don't know if it does or not, I tend to doubt it. Usually I cut them into strips and put it length wise on the sides. I find that way, the bevels stay even sharper and I can add more or less for thickness issues.
I would say it's about maybe a little thicker than a third of a normal over wrap. Interesting, it doesn't take much to notice the difference, it is very subtle.
Again, though it maintains a very firm edge and it has a light "stickum" like those notepads that you just stick everywhere, so it stays in place well.
 
Hi Sarthak, sounds like a brilliant idea. I'm currently facing the same problem right now.

I can't see the picture that you posted though, both on my phone and desktop.

Could anyone how to load the picture please?

Help is greatly appreciated.
 
I've used balsa wood strips underneath the grip before...it seems to work well without adding much weight at all.
 
I've done a balsa fix. It worked out lighter than strips of expanded foam pvc.
I needed something more than just a few over grips so 1mm all round in balsa worked. But it is a bit fiddly.
You can shape the edges to preference easily too.

The wire idea to keep the edges is interesting.
If I did this I think I'd pull the copper wire out and just use the coloured sheithing.

I'd thought about cut down strips of very thin plastic angle strips. Could heat gun them and flatten them from right angle to 120degs or whatever the handle actually is.
More fiddle :)
 
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Hello.
A question.
How many milimeters needs to be added on each bevel on the handle without any base grip (naked) to increase the handle one size up?. 7 mm? 10 mm?
 
An overgrip do not give 1 size increase.

Yes it does.:

Size 2 = 4 1/4 inch circumference = 10.795cm circumference
Size 3 = 4 3/8 inch circumference = 11.1125cm circumference
Size 4 = 4 1/2 inch circumference = 11.43cm circumference

Difference in circumference Size 2 - 3 = 11.1125-10.795cm = 0.3175cm = 3.175mm
Difference in circumference Size 3 - 4 = 11.43-11.1125cm = 0.3175cm = 3.175mm
etc.

Assume octagonal grip is close to circular and convert difference in circumference to radius for thickness of over-grip:

3.175mm / (2 x pi) = 0.505mm

Typical over-grips are 0.5-0.6mm
 
Yes it does.:

Size 2 = 4 1/4 inch circumference = 10.795cm circumference
Size 3 = 4 3/8 inch circumference = 11.1125cm circumference
Size 4 = 4 1/2 inch circumference = 11.43cm circumference

Difference in circumference Size 2 - 3 = 11.1125-10.795cm = 0.3175cm = 3.175mm
Difference in circumference Size 3 - 4 = 11.43-11.1125cm = 0.3175cm = 3.175mm
etc.

Assume octagonal grip is close to circular and convert difference in circumference to radius for thickness of over-grip:

3.175mm / (2 x pi) = 0.505mm

Typical over-grips are 0.5-0.6mm
The thing is though that the octogonal grip is not close to being circular. So you cant just convert it to a radius and diameter calculation like that.
The handle is more a rectangle square with cut corners/added angle. SO we should use calculation for rectangles.

so Its more like 0.7-0.8 mm.... but of hard material and not soft overgrip.
so you need 2 soft overgrips to increase one size up. and then you loose the bevels for your game.
0.5 mm overgrip adds just under 1/16 and not 1/8 of an inch.

But thank you for your suggestion.

I
 
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The thing is though that the octogonal grip is not close to being circular. So you cant just convert it to a radius and diameter calculation like that.
The handle is more a rectangle square with cut corners/added angle. SO we should use calculation for rectangles.

so Its more like 0.7-0.8 mm.... but of hard material and not soft overgrip.
so you need 2 soft overgrips to increase one size up. and then you loose the bevels for your game.
0.5 mm overgrip adds just under 1/16 and not 1/8 of an inch.

But thank you for your suggestion.

I
0.5-0.6mm is correct though if you imagine wrapping tape of this thickness around the handle, you'd get a virtual exact grip size increase....for Wilson handles at least. I've built up Wilson handles before by gluing on 0.020" styrene plastic strips. Worked perfectly.

 
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0.5-0.6mm is correct though if you imagine wrapping tape of this thickness around the handle, you'd get a virtual exact grip size increase....for Wilson handles at least. I've built up Wilson handles before by gluing on 0.020" styrene plastic strips. Worked perfectly.

6 sheets of paper A4 (for the copy machine) are together about 0.56 mm thick.
cut down to 18 x 18 cm for the handle they weigh 16 grams.
An alternative to add lead in the butt cap. Buy a grip size smaller and use sheets of paper to increase :cool:
 
polysterene: 1.05 g/cm3.....paper: 0.80 g/cm3
so 18 grams vs 15 grams added weight to handle
pressed cork is only 0.36 g/cm3...aprox 40 % of polysterene.
adding a grip size using pressed cork adds aprox 7 grams.

?Dry wall tape is 0.0357grams/cm3?
 
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polysterene: 1.05 g/cm3.....paper: 0.80 g/cm3
so 18 grams vs 15 grams added weight to handle
pressed cork is only 0.36 g/cm3...aprox 40 % of polysterene.
adding a grip size using pressed cork adds aprox 7 grams.
Styrene plastic method adds 8g, but of course stuffing a little putty in the buttcap is 100x quicker and easier than doing a quality grip build job just for the sake of handle weight.

https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/building-up-grip-size.754808/
 
Styrene plastic method adds 8g, but of course stuffing a little putty in the buttcap is 100x quicker and easier than doing a quality grip build job just for the sake of handle weight.

https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/building-up-grip-size.754808/
Its because I have bought on sale some rackets grip size 2 and I use grip size 3. im not looking for weight in the handle this time. Just one size up. I wil try 1 Styrene and also 1 with pressed cork.
 
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