How to bring down stringing time on a Klippermate.

AmericanTemplar

AmericanTemplar

Professional
I remember it took me about 2 hours string my first racquet on my Klippermate. The manual said that with practice you should be able to bring your stringing time down to around 30 minutes per frame. While that is true, I don't think that it's possible to string a frame in 30 minutes following the instructions provided by Klipper. I have brought my stringing time down to 30-35 minutes after watching videos on the net & reading stuff on these forums. Here are some amendments to Klipper's instructions that will help you speed up your stringing:

-it's generally faster to use string from a reel rather than from a pack, since they aren't coiled as tightly on a reel & don't tangle as easily.

-string the first two mains before mounting by holding the frame with one hand and pulling the strings with your thumb and index finger on the other hand. Pull the two tips together from the outside of the frame & continue pulling the string evenly at the same time with one hand. Then string the main through one more hole on one side & stick the starting pin in the hole where that string would normally exit the frame on the other end.

-if the tension arm doesn't fall parallel to the ground on the first pull, slack can be either given or taken from the string jaws by lifting the arm enough to where there isn't friction in the jaw & then giving or taking string to or from the jaw. Make sure that you are lifting the arm enough to where there is no friction to keep from damaging the string.

-learn how to tie a Parnell knot. They're fast & easy to tie tightly & they have a distinctly clean & consistent appearance. It won't be necessary to add 3 to 5 pounds on the last string before tying off if you learn to tie this knot well. Adding more tension before tying off is said to be a bad practice & it also slows you down a bit since you have to move the weight.

-if you haven't purchased a starting clamp, learn to tie a starting knot to start the crosses. Don't tension the knot along with the first two crosses as some people suggest--tighten the knot by hand before pulling through the first grommet. You may need to hold the tail of the knot with pliers while you pull on the other end.

-weave the first 3 crosses before tensioning. Weave the first two crosses tightly and weave the 3rd cross just so that tip of the string is sticking out of the grommet, so that you have more than enough slack to tension the first two crosses. After tensioning and clamping the first two crosses, pull the 3rd cross tight and then weave the 4th cross enough so that just the tip is sticking out a couple of inches from the grommet. Tension the 3rd cross and continue in the same way, weaving one ahead, until you have completed the racquet. Weaving one ahead, using the push weave method will save you tons of time & is much more enjoyable than the weaving method that is shown in the Klippermate manual. Weaving one ahead will also reduce friction enough to make it so that the strings don't burn as easily & it will be much easier to learn how to push weave quickly.

That's all I can think of for now. Let me know if there is anything that needs clarification & feel free to post any other tips that will help people to speed up the stringing process on a Klippermate.
 
sorry i dont have time saving tips, but rather more small changes that will affect the string job,
if you count all the time prepin and stringing, i think its a full hour, the strig job itself its 45 minutes for me
i also try not to scratch the frame when pulling so i use a cardboard/tape on the friction points when tensioning, which also adds to the time,
i gotta say the mains go fairly quick, the crosses are the pain, and now that im using poly on the crosses, it sucks and it hurts the fingers
while i do want to lower the time it takes to string, i think i am going to just stick to the 45 minutes to make sure i stay consistent, i have yet to miss a weave because i dont hurry it too much, and i am also worried of snapping a line trying to go too fast
oh, one other thing thats added to my time recenttly is the straightening of the crosses as i string, i strighten after clamping the string, before the pull, and a little during the pull, this is to reduce the tension loss from loose/crooket strings

on a side note, do you wear eye protection when you string?? ever since i started using poly strings ive been using them just i case it snaps and/or it recoils into my eye, either while stringing or cutting from the reel
 
No matter what I do it takes 1 to 1.25 hours to string a racquet for me on my Klipper. I'm usually doing hybrids. Fortunately I just upgraded to a Eagnas Plus 6500.
 
What is the purpose of the 'starting pin' on the Klipper? Is it like jamming an awl into the grommet to hold the string while you tension the first main?
 
Bud said:
What is the purpose of the 'starting pin' on the Klipper? Is it like jamming an awl into the grommet to hold the string while you tension the first main?
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Because you're using floating clamps, the first centre main you tension has to be clamped to something (normally 2 strings). Because there is not a tensioned and clamped string adjacent to it, the starting pin is inserted next to the first main under tension, and the string is clamped to the pin. Once the other centre main is tensioned, it is clamped to the other main which has been tensioned (and was clamped to the starting pin) and the starting pin is removed and discarded. Sounds a lot more complex than it is.

Thanks American Templar for the tips - tips 3 and 4 are particularly noteworthy. The rod only has to be raised as high as needed to release gripping pressure on the string and using a Parnell/Pro knot is definitely the way to go. Good work.
 
AmericanTemplar said:
-it's generally faster to use string from a reel rather than from a pack, since they aren't coiled as tightly on a reel & don't tangle as easily.
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agreed... and stringing poly porbably takes the longest time to string because it seems to be less flexible (ie. makes it slower threading the crosses, likelihood of falling out of track in the string tensioner is higher...).
AmericanTemplar said:
-if the tension arm doesn't fall parallel to the ground on the first pull, slack can be either given or taken from the string jaws by lifting the arm enough to where there isn't friction in the jaw & then giving or taking string to or from the jaw. Make sure that you are lifting the arm enough to where there is no friction to keep from damaging the string.
Click to expand...
I find it faster to take away slack than, give back slack...
AmericanTemplar said:
-learn how to tie a Parnell knot. They're fast & easy to tie tightly & they have a distinctly clean & consistent appearance. It won't be necessary to add 3 to 5 pounds on the last string before tying off if you learn to tie this knot well. Adding more tension before tying off is said to be a bad practice & it also slows you down a bit since you have to move the weight.
Click to expand...
nice tip
 
DangerDan said:
No matter what I do it takes 1 to 1.25 hours to string a racquet for me on my Klipper. I'm usually doing hybrids. Fortunately I just upgraded to a Eagnas Plus 6500.
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Just curious how long does it take you to string with Eagnas Plus 6500?
 
I am a beginner, strung about 40 racquets in the last few months, mostly poly hybrids (wife gets NG). I have cut my time in half, down to about an hour now. Did you guys still show dramatic improvement after you got to an hour, or is it all incremental now?

Things I found that really helped me specific to the Klippermate:
- estimating string stretch to minimize adjustment
- keeping some tension on the head with my hand while threading until I can drop the weight
- starting without confusion

Some generic stuff that really helped:
- push weave/ pre-weave (love the tip in the grommet trick!)
- measuring 1/2 set from reel using 3 wingspan + 2 shoe lengths
- measuring 1/2 set bisecting a regular set
- Parnell knot
- starting clamp
- light behind the machine (I am old and have trouble seeing the grommet holes when coming from inside the frame)

A couple of non-speed things that I thought were very important on the Klippermate that don't seem to be in the manual:
- wrapping string around the head once before threading
- no gap mounting by multiple tightening/loosening of the frame mounts/butterflies in a specific order, while leaning on the vertical mounts a little

Nice thread, by the way.
 
TenniseaWilliams said:
. . . Did you guys still show dramatic improvement after you got to an hour, or is it all incremental now?
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I've in the tenth year of stringing on the Klippermate and for stringing times I count all this:

a: Cutting out old string
b: Mounting the racquet
c: Cutting open string pack and unwinding the coil, OR measuring string from the reel (string from reel saves time).
d: Stringing racquet
e: Unmounting racquet
f: Clipping the tail on the knots.

I don't count this:

g: Entering stringing info in database.
h: Printing and applying label to racquet.
i: Stencilling the logo on strings.
j: Measuring String Bed Stiffness (frequency method)

My stringing times average between 25 and 35 minutes. My fastest time with a familiar racquet was 19:57 . They say with a crank machine that ten minutes can be shaved from stringing times. I'm looking forward to ten minute stringjobs. :)

Biggest single improvement for me was going to one ahead weaving using the push weave method.
 
I agree with SW Stringer that being able to push weave quickly will be the what will whittle down your time the most, but it's ultimately about having the most efficient method possible for every step involved. I'd say that with the push weave, one steadily improves, but with a lot of other steps it comes down to learning a more efficient method, which cuts time incrementally. All of your movements will be much quicker and more efficient too, once you no longer need to second guess what you're doing--like tennis you'll get into the zone.
 
TenniseaWilliams said:
- wrapping string around the head once before threading
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The new Klippermate manuals available now include a description on how to wrap the string around the gripper jaws once before inserting between the jaws. Klipper have added this because strings are becoming more and more coated with silicone leading to gripping problems and the once around the jaws method prevents any slippage issues.
 
Buy a Prince Neos. I did that after using the Klippermate and cursing at it for a year. My string time went from 50 min. to 20 min. overnight.
 
I've always thought the 30 minutes was hyperbole. I'm happy taking 50 or so; sometimes 45, sometimes 60, if I have to run fetch more coffee.

I'm not used to stringing being fast. When I was a kid, I think people generally thought it takes about an hour. Since I'm stringing for myself, it just don't matter.

I'll check into the Parnell knot. Thanks for the tips.
 
Is this the 135 dollar Klippermate? How well does this machine work? And is instruction book that comes with it good? I'm thinking about buying this machine. How does a DW tension system work? And is the starting clamp necessary? For the steel clamps, do they go on two strings like other flying clamps?
 
Mansewerz said:
Is this the 135 dollar Klippermate? How well does this machine work? And is instruction book that comes with it good? I'm thinking about buying this machine. How does a DW tension system work? And is the starting clamp necessary? For the steel clamps, do they go on two strings like other flying clamps?
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Yes, it is the cheapie. It works great, and is a lot of fun if you are one of those people that like to mess with stuff. It could be really annoying otherwise. It will do anything the more expensive machines do, except for some of the 1 piece ATW/Box patterns.

It is beyond my narrative skill to describe the DW, but it is way simpler than you think. Getting the first few mains done the first time is the hard part.

A starting clamp is optional, but worth it. The flying clamps are vice grips with some extra stuff welded on. Not pretty or impressive, but functional and tough.

Try it, not much to lose, great way to understand the differences the nicer machines bring to the table, and likely learn quite a bit more than starting on a Star 5.
 
TenniseaWilliams said:
Yes, it is the cheapie. It works great, and is a lot of fun if you are one of those people that like to mess with stuff. It could be really annoying otherwise. It will do anything the more expensive machines do, except for some of the 1 piece ATW/Box patterns.

It is beyond my narrative skill to describe the DW, but it is way simpler than you think. Getting the first few mains done the first time is the hard part.

A starting clamp is optional, but worth it. The flying clamps are vice grips with some extra stuff welded on. Not pretty or impressive, but functional and tough.

Try it, not much to lose, great way to understand the differences the nicer machines bring to the table, and likely learn quite a bit more than starting on a Star 5.
Click to expand...

And if I see that the machine is just not for me, or if stringing is just not for me, I can send it back for a full refund right? Even after I open it?
 
Mansewerz said:
And if I see that the machine is just not for me, or if stringing is just not for me, I can send it back for a full refund right? Even after I open it?
Click to expand...

Not likely. You might want to look at auction sites, the machines are simple and tough. Wouldn't come with string samples though, and you are likely to use up some string in the first few attempts. I am afraid some monetary risk is unavoidable unless you can find someone near by with one. I should mention I originally got mine on indefinite loan from someone who got frustrated with it. Eventually I think I can talk them into trying it again, and most likely will upgrade to something nicer. But maybe not!
 
Mansewerz said:
And if I see that the machine is just not for me, or if stringing is just not for me, I can send it back for a full refund right? Even after I open it?
Click to expand...

Check with KLipperUSA regarding this. They are very easy to talk to and offer wonderful pre and post sales advice and support. To answer a couple of your other questions, the manual is excellent. For a first time stringer, the explanations are clear and the photographs show exactly what you need to do.

You do not need a starting clamp as the start pin that comes with the KLippermate allows easy tensioning of the center mains. Won't mean anything to you now, but the manual clearly explains the use of the start pin.

The steel clamps work like other flying clamps and although they look pretty agricultural, most stringers who have used them place them near to the top of the tree for effectiveness.

Remember, to the original owner, the machine and all tools, clamps etc have a warranty for life. Klipper respond to any email very promptly.
 
It's a great machine and you can get $100 on Craigslist for it if you don't like it. I think that they're fun to string on and as TenniseaWilliams pointed out it's a good machine to start with, both to determine whether or not stringing is for you and also to get a better idea of what you would like in a machine once you decide to upgrade.
 
i've got a klippermate too. i can usually string my racquet in about 40 minutes.
i'm thinking about buying a crank.
 
i use an x-2 which seems similar to a klipper. it used to take me about an 1 1/2 when i first starting stringing. now i am down to around 30, 35 minutes per frame.

didn't notice if anyone has mentioned stringing one ahead... or if that is just a given. i think it is a great way to save time and not create as much friction while pulling crosses.
 
here is one tip for lowering time on klippermate machine
donot weave POLY string crosses, they take forever to weave

on a side not- just whent to the klippermate website, you can get a new mahcine right now for 135, thats 40 less then i paid, and it porvably has all the warranty i got with mine
as other have stated, this is a great simple starting machine for hobby stringers, i have strung 45+ frames so far in 8 months time, i love my machine, always 6pt system is better but 2 pt does the job ok too
 
One other thing to note is that a starting clamp is not required unless you have a Prince Speedport or Ozone racket. The starting pin will not will with those style frames.

But yes its a great stringing machine for the do it yourselfer. Plan on 2 - 3 hours for your fist time and be patient. Once you do 2 or 3 rackets it will really come to you and you will be quickly down to 60 min easy even without the push weave technique.
 
AmericanTemplar said:
Can you please clarify this assertion? Are you saying to avoid poly all together, or not to push weave poly?:confused:
Click to expand...

recenttly ive been trying out synthetic gut mains and poly crosses, because the poly crosses are so hard, they make the weaving porcess much more difficult to me, to weave, hence adding to the stringing time
i have been able to string poly mains and synthetic crosses a lot faster
 
Loco4Tennis said:
recenttly ive been trying out synthetic gut mains and poly crosses, because the poly crosses are so hard, they make the weaving porcess much more difficult to me, to weave, hence adding to the stringing time
i have been able to string poly mains and synthetic crosses a lot faster
Click to expand...

Gotcha!!!!
 
ATXtennisaddict said:
I can do a frame in 30 mins on a klipper. but only on racquets i've strung over and over (ie mine)
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Ditto. I have two of the same frames so I do one or the other of them frequently and only take about 30-35 minutes. Those I do less frequently will add 15 minutes or so to my time.

I keep saying I'm going to upgrade to something like a Revo but spending $500-$600 to save maybe 30 minutes of time a month for me doesn't make sense.
 
beernutz said:
I keep saying I'm going to upgrade to something like a Revo but spending $500-$600 to save maybe 30 minutes of time a month for me doesn't make sense.
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Gotta agree. If something like a Revo did a much better string job, I'd get one. But the Klippermate produces consistent string jobs time after time and the additional time factor is not an issue to me.

Before I bought a Klippermate, I had my frames strung many, many times over the years by professional stringers (including a US Open mens singles champion). The string jobs I do using my Klippermate are at LEAST the equal of any string jobs the professionals do and superior to many. Doesn't matter to me if it is a Klippermate, X-2, SP Swing or others, they all do a good, consistent job you will be happy with if you take your time to do it right.
 
I think it's pretty clear from the comments here that "speed trials" on the Klippermate and the X-2 show them to take just about the same amount of time. Perhaps it all depends on what time of day you do the stringing, and how much energy you have! :)
 
I have no speed tips to offer but I would suggest pouring a Guiness Stout, chilling out and enjoying the stringing process.
 
mrw said:
I have no speed tips to offer but I would suggest pouring a Guiness Stout, chilling out and enjoying the stringing process.
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haha, i think thats how they came up with the first pattern for spaguetty stringing :-) , ooopppsss
then they stringer played it off by saying, "oh thats the way i wanted it done", when he got asked why he missed so many crosses :-)
 
Last edited:
Actually, it struck me a couple of days ago when stringing, that one of my biggest delays in stringing is putting the tip of the string into the grommets! Not so much a nuisance on the mains, but I seem to take more time than should be necessary to actually feed the string through the grommets on the crosses. Sometimes I poke and prod for what seems like 10 seconds until the tip of the string actually gets into the grommet. That's 1 big plus for O3 ports as far as I'm concerned!! Seriously, if I could get the string into a grommet first time I would save a fair bit of time (and feel a lot less frustration too).
 
aussie said:
Actually, it struck me a couple of days ago when stringing, that one of my biggest delays in stringing is putting the tip of the string into the grommets! Not so much a nuisance on the mains, but I seem to take more time than should be necessary to actually feed the string through the grommets on the crosses. Sometimes I poke and prod for what seems like 10 seconds until the tip of the string actually gets into the grommet. That's 1 big plus for O3 ports as far as I'm concerned!! Seriously, if I could get the string into a grommet first time I would save a fair bit of time (and feel a lot less frustration too).
Click to expand...

I'm the same way! I inherited this awful tremor in my hands from my father (through his mother) that makes it hard sometimes to do anything on this scale (like paint scale models, work on electronics etc.) The time really adds up. :D
 
YULitle said:
I'm the same way! I inherited this awful tremor in my hands from my father (through his mother) that makes it hard sometimes to do anything on this scale (like paint scale models, work on electronics etc.) The time really adds up. :D
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Sympathise with your hand tremour.....as a stringer that would be a real bummer. My eyes are not the best any more, and I need to get my face down really close to see the grommet entrance clearly. All takes time.
 
Just in case you aren't doing this:

Use the index finger that is on the bottom side of the stringbed as a guide by placing your fingertip on the outer edge of the grommet while you push the string through with you top index finger.
 
You know, I tried drinking beer and stringing, but it just doesn't work for me. It's a shame. I'm at my best at 7 a.m. on a Sunday morning with a pot of coffee and some news radio.
 
max said:
You know, I tried drinking beer and stringing, but it just doesn't work for me. It's a shame. I'm at my best at 7 a.m. on a Sunday morning with a pot of coffee and some news radio.
Click to expand...

I agree, stringing certainly distracts me too much to drink properly, and it may even increase the risk of spilling.
 
max said:
You know, I tried drinking beer and stringing, but it just doesn't work for me. It's a shame. I'm at my best at 7 a.m. on a Sunday morning with a pot of coffee and some news radio.
Click to expand...

TenniseaWilliams said:
I agree, stringing certainly distracts me too much to drink properly, and it may even increase the risk of spilling.
Click to expand...

count me in fellas, some of my most memorable missweaves happened when i tipped a few back :-D
 
tenisjugador said:
anyone care to answer my question............how does weaving one cross after the one you will tension save time?
Click to expand...


Easy. When you are weaving the cross that is to be tensioned next, it's a hard weave (named hard because it's more difficult than a soft weave) and when you weave the one AFTER the one that is to be tensioned it's a soft weave. It has to do with the way that the cross staggers the mains. Try it once and you'll be convinced. It's much easier, and as a result much faster.
 
I've steadily gotten my string time down to about 45 minutes. I think the weave ahead is the next progression for me to shave another 5 or 10 minutes off the string job, so I'll give it a shot. I do weave ahead at the top and bottom of the racket where the conflict holes are. It is much easier to get the strings through the holes this way.
 
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