corbind
Professional
Hi greystar, kimguroo
I made myself a spraying and curing station with some old plywood, a metal flange, and some PVC tubing.
[..]
-Jack
Nice rig
How to create a custom paintjob (very detailed)
- Thread starter User Name
- Start date
Nice rig
Pictures below. In a nutshell:-
Wilson BLX Juice Pro
Dremel with rough/fine sanding band
Various grit glass paper
3 coats x primer (300ml)
2 coats x matt enamel (300ml)
2 coats x gloss enamel (300m)
1 light coat x gloss acylic simply to even up the finish
1 coat x lacquer clear coat
It's been an interesting exercise and a good learning experience. If I was going to do this again (and if I had the time) I would the following:
1. Spend more time sanding with fine grit to get as much of a flat/smooth finish as possible. The problem with standing of course is that it's incredibly time consuming....
2. Airgun - the finer spray would have been useful.
3. Wouldn't bother using gloss enamel paint again. When it dries, parts of it come out glossy, other parts less glossy, some parts slightly matt. I would use a matt enamel and then coat with lacquer, or just have a matt finish (too much lacquer = too shiny = bit tacky looking).
Wilson BLX Juice Pro
Dremel with rough/fine sanding band
Various grit glass paper
3 coats x primer (300ml)
2 coats x matt enamel (300ml)
2 coats x gloss enamel (300m)
1 light coat x gloss acylic simply to even up the finish
1 coat x lacquer clear coat
It's been an interesting exercise and a good learning experience. If I was going to do this again (and if I had the time) I would the following:
1. Spend more time sanding with fine grit to get as much of a flat/smooth finish as possible. The problem with standing of course is that it's incredibly time consuming....
2. Airgun - the finer spray would have been useful.
3. Wouldn't bother using gloss enamel paint again. When it dries, parts of it come out glossy, other parts less glossy, some parts slightly matt. I would use a matt enamel and then coat with lacquer, or just have a matt finish (too much lacquer = too shiny = bit tacky looking).
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vsbabolat
G.O.A.T.
Hi Dont Let it Bounce -
Request granted. I applied two coats of clear lacquer to my 6 new frames. The P1 has a matte finish, and the silver decals are very prone to chipping. Thought I would gloss em up a bit and put something on to help prevent the chipping that always happens at 3 and 9 in the hoop. Now comes the fun part, matching em all up, leather grips, lead etc.
-Jack
..
..
So much better glossy!!!!!!
Second attempt this time on my other racquet.....
I went through different grits of sanding paper this time (400>600>800) after Dremel'ing off the paint and paint and primer (previously I applied the primer straight after Dremel'ing). Spent more time generally sanding by hand this time with a curved sanding block.
Finish is a lot flatter and smoother, so as far as I'm concerned, spending time finishing the surface and going up the different grit paper ranges is key.
Hopefully the primer and print will go on a lot flatter this time. I'm also going to try and pick a day when the weather is warmer to apply the primer/paint.
I might try a metallic or pearlescent paint this time as a flat coloured paint looks a bit dull and too much lacquer makes it look too shiney.
UPDATE
2nd attempt. Cut out the school boy errors this time.
Went through ALL of the main grits prior to priming
Used 1200 grit for smoothing between coats
Ensured the can of paint was at room temperature / warmer
Used a pearlescent paint this time which seems to give a better finish compared to matt black or black gloss
Weighed racquet beforehand and will use as much paint/coats required to bring it back up to weight
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (left), Wilson BLX Juice Pro (Right)
I went through different grits of sanding paper this time (400>600>800) after Dremel'ing off the paint and paint and primer (previously I applied the primer straight after Dremel'ing). Spent more time generally sanding by hand this time with a curved sanding block.
Finish is a lot flatter and smoother, so as far as I'm concerned, spending time finishing the surface and going up the different grit paper ranges is key.
Hopefully the primer and print will go on a lot flatter this time. I'm also going to try and pick a day when the weather is warmer to apply the primer/paint.
I might try a metallic or pearlescent paint this time as a flat coloured paint looks a bit dull and too much lacquer makes it look too shiney.
UPDATE
2nd attempt. Cut out the school boy errors this time.
Went through ALL of the main grits prior to priming
Used 1200 grit for smoothing between coats
Ensured the can of paint was at room temperature / warmer
Used a pearlescent paint this time which seems to give a better finish compared to matt black or black gloss
Weighed racquet beforehand and will use as much paint/coats required to bring it back up to weight
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (left), Wilson BLX Juice Pro (Right)
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This is the 2nd racquet I've attempted now and I am very pleased with the finish. I managed to find some pearlescent blue car paint which gave a very nice smooth satin finish that looks lighter or darker depending on the light.
Spent much more time this time around sanding with 800 and 1200 fine grit for a smoother finish, and fine gritting between layers of primer and paint.
I don't think its been mentioned previously in this thread but stripping off the original paint and using a replacement paint seems to change the way the racquet feels. The original paint was very solid and rigid, and contributes to the racquet feeling solid. The replacement paints that I tried seem to be softer and less dense with the result that racquet doesn't feel as solid. Its very noticeable with the Juice Pro because what I liked most about the orginal racquet was how solid it felt. It had that solid block of hardwood feel without any wobble or vibration and would stable even returning the hardest hit shots. It hard to explain but now the racquet feels slightly more 'jangly'. It can only the paint because that's the only change that's been made.
Bear in mind that stripping off the paint right back to the bare graphite can remove up to 30-32g in weight. That's a massive amount, so be prepared to weigh the racquet beforehand so you can bring the racquet back up to its original weight and have a consistent distribution of mass across the hoop and throat. I used probably 4 coats of primer and probably 7-8 coats of paint to bring it back to the original weight spec. For the best finish, you really need to be as patient as possible with the sanding, finishing, painting, drying etc. I could have spent another week doing this.
246g - bare racquet stripped back to the graphite
20g - grommet set
18-20g - replacement grip (Wilson True Grip)
16-17g - strings (poly)
5-6g - overgrip
2g - dampener
1g - misc tape
Total = 308-312g (original weight was 346g)
Spent much more time this time around sanding with 800 and 1200 fine grit for a smoother finish, and fine gritting between layers of primer and paint.
I don't think its been mentioned previously in this thread but stripping off the original paint and using a replacement paint seems to change the way the racquet feels. The original paint was very solid and rigid, and contributes to the racquet feeling solid. The replacement paints that I tried seem to be softer and less dense with the result that racquet doesn't feel as solid. Its very noticeable with the Juice Pro because what I liked most about the orginal racquet was how solid it felt. It had that solid block of hardwood feel without any wobble or vibration and would stable even returning the hardest hit shots. It hard to explain but now the racquet feels slightly more 'jangly'. It can only the paint because that's the only change that's been made.
Bear in mind that stripping off the paint right back to the bare graphite can remove up to 30-32g in weight. That's a massive amount, so be prepared to weigh the racquet beforehand so you can bring the racquet back up to its original weight and have a consistent distribution of mass across the hoop and throat. I used probably 4 coats of primer and probably 7-8 coats of paint to bring it back to the original weight spec. For the best finish, you really need to be as patient as possible with the sanding, finishing, painting, drying etc. I could have spent another week doing this.
246g - bare racquet stripped back to the graphite
20g - grommet set
18-20g - replacement grip (Wilson True Grip)
16-17g - strings (poly)
5-6g - overgrip
2g - dampener
1g - misc tape
Total = 308-312g (original weight was 346g)
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Originals (with part painted one on the left - originally I tried painting directly onto the lacquer but the paint didn't take very well)
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (Carbon Xtreme) below
Did a 'quick and dirty' job on this one with minimal sanding as its a old racquet I don't really use anymore and it already had a ton of paint chips and scrapes already on it. Lacquer really shows up any surface imperfections.
Original Pure Storm Tour Carbon Xtreme below (on the right)
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (Carbon Xtreme) below
Did a 'quick and dirty' job on this one with minimal sanding as its a old racquet I don't really use anymore and it already had a ton of paint chips and scrapes already on it. Lacquer really shows up any surface imperfections.
Original Pure Storm Tour Carbon Xtreme below (on the right)
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srikanth.narahari
New User
Awesome work!
burosky
Professional
[QUOTE
2)don't apply waterslide decals near grommets they turned out bad when i tried to punch thru them
3) do some of the painting with a set of old grommets installed when i pushed some of the grommets into the holes some of the paint that rolled over into the holes chipped.[/QUOTE]
What I did to work around this is I used a rotary tool. There are different kinds of sanders that you can use to carefully sand through the grommets. Do it slowly though. The water slide decal is flimsy and the paint is brittle.
2)don't apply waterslide decals near grommets they turned out bad when i tried to punch thru them
3) do some of the painting with a set of old grommets installed when i pushed some of the grommets into the holes some of the paint that rolled over into the holes chipped.[/QUOTE]
What I did to work around this is I used a rotary tool. There are different kinds of sanders that you can use to carefully sand through the grommets. Do it slowly though. The water slide decal is flimsy and the paint is brittle.
tennis4811
New User
does a custom paintjob change the flex or the feel of the racket?
chrisingrassia
Professional
Pictures below. In a nutshell:-
Wilson BLX Juice Pro
Dremel with rough/fine sanding band
Various grit glass paper
3 coats x primer (300ml)
2 coats x matt enamel (300ml)
2 coats x gloss enamel (300m)
1 light coat x gloss acylic simply to even up the finish
1 coat x lacquer clear coat
It's been an interesting exercise and a good learning experience. If I was going to do this again (and if I had the time) I would the following:
1. Spend more time sanding with fine grit to get as much of a flat/smooth finish as possible. The problem with standing of course is that it's incredibly time consuming....
2. Airgun - the finer spray would have been useful.
3. Wouldn't bother using gloss enamel paint again. When it dries, parts of it come out glossy, other parts less glossy, some parts slightly matt. I would use a matt enamel and then coat with lacquer, or just have a matt finish (too much lacquer = too shiny = bit tacky looking).
Primer and first few coats of pain
Second attempt this time on my other racquet.....
I went through different grits of sanding paper this time (400>600>800) after Dremel'ing off the paint and paint and primer (previously I applied the primer straight after Dremel'ing). Spent more time generally sanding by hand this time with a curved sanding block.
Finish is a lot flatter and smoother, so as far as I'm concerned, spending time finishing the surface and going up the different grit paper ranges is key.
Hopefully the primer and print will go on a lot flatter this time. I'm also going to try and pick a day when the weather is warmer to apply the primer/paint.
I might try a metallic or pearlescent paint this time as a flat coloured paint looks a bit dull and too much lacquer makes it look too shiney.
UPDATE
2nd attempt. Cut out the school boy errors this time.
Went through ALL of the main grits prior to priming
Used 1200 grit for smoothing between coats
Ensured the can of paint was at room temperature / warmer
Used a pearlescent paint this time which seems to give a better finish compared to matt black or black gloss
Weighed racquet beforehand and will use as much paint/coats required to bring it back up to weight
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (left), Wilson BLX Juice Pro (Right)
This is the 2nd racquet I've attempted now and I am very pleased with the finish. I managed to find some pearlescent blue car paint which gave a very nice smooth satin finish that looks lighter or darker depending on the light.
Spent much more time this time around sanding with 800 and 1200 fine grit for a smoother finish, and fine gritting between layers of primer and paint.
I don't think its been mentioned previously in this thread but stripping off the original paint and using a replacement paint seems to change the way the racquet feels. The original paint was very solid and rigid, and contributes to the racquet feeling solid. The replacement paints that I tried seem to be softer and less dense with the result that racquet doesn't feel as solid. Its very noticeable with the Juice Pro because what I liked most about the orginal racquet was how solid it felt. It had that solid block of hardwood feel without any wobble or vibration and would stable even returning the hardest hit shots. It hard to explain but now the racquet feels slightly more 'jangly'. It can only the paint because that's the only change that's been made.
Bear in mind that stripping off the paint right back to the bare graphite can remove up to 30-32g in weight. That's a massive amount, so be prepared to weigh the racquet beforehand so you can bring the racquet back up to its original weight and have a consistent distribution of mass across the hoop and throat. I used probably 4 coats of primer and probably 7-8 coats of paint to bring it back to the original weight spec. For the best finish, you really need to be as patient as possible with the sanding, finishing, painting, drying etc. I could have spent another week doing this.
246g - bare racquet stripped back to the graphite
20g - grommet set
18-20g - replacement grip (Wilson True Grip)
16-17g - strings (poly)
5-6g - overgrip
2g - dampener
1g - misc tape
Total = 308-312g (original weight was 346g)
Originals (with part painted one on the left - originally I tried painting directly onto the lacquer but the paint didn't take very well)
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (Carbon Xtreme) below
Did a 'quick and dirty' job on this one with minimal sanding as its a old racquet I don't really use anymore and it already had a ton of paint chips and scrapes already on it. Lacquer really shows up any surface imperfections.
Original Pure Storm Tour Carbon Xtreme below (on the right)
Really wish this guy wasn't banned. I have tons of questions on his results and process before I start this on my trio of Babolat Aero Pro Drives.
Carbolift looks very messy and could possibly leak into the grommet holes -- no good. Ultimately, his results look the best out of all the threads I've read. What are thoughts on using acetone to strip paint?
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chrisingrassia
Professional
You guys weren't kidding. I started just one of the APD+ I plan to customize, and just did hand sanding for this one so I could control the potential paint breakdown. Started with 320grit, moved to 600 for the primer. My hand, fingers, and arm are killing me today. I wet sanded for about 3hrs yesterday, and only got about half the racquet done. Heading to HD tonight for some citrus stripper, more sandpaper, primer and Rust Oleum matte black paint.
EDIT*:
Bought some citrus stripper. I actually decided not to do a primer on the racquet. Since I'm painting it matte black, and the racquet is already carbon/graphite color, seemed like a redundant step, adding unnecessary weight. Will do 2-3 coats of matte, then a coat or two of 2k urethane clear.
EDIT*:
Bought some citrus stripper. I actually decided not to do a primer on the racquet. Since I'm painting it matte black, and the racquet is already carbon/graphite color, seemed like a redundant step, adding unnecessary weight. Will do 2-3 coats of matte, then a coat or two of 2k urethane clear.
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diredesire
Moderator
Acetone won't strip most racquet paints. Just give it a try - if it melts, you're "good" to go. If it doesn't, well, it's a cheap experiment. Even if it DOES work, though, I'd be surprised if it stripped ALL the paint on the frame. It'd just prolong the experiment rather than getting it done correctly in the first place, IMO.
richardc-s
Semi-Pro
I would still use primer, it will give a decent base for the black to go onto and make the paint job more durable. Even if it's just one or two light coats it will be worth it.
chrisingrassia
Professional
Yeah, acetone was worthless on the top clear coat or the colored coats. You HAVE to sand those down. Works like a charm on the white primer coat though.
You think so? Should I just go with a black primer or a gray one?
richardc-s
Semi-Pro
Yea the primer will give a solid base for the main paint to sit onto. Also if you don't use primer you will find that the frame will chip a lot easier. For the sake of a few $ it'll be well worth it.
Grey or black primer will be fine, it won't make a difference either way. I painted an original APD a few years ago, I used grey primer followed by gloss black main coat and then gloss lacquer. I'll take some pictures of it in the morning and post them up.
Grey or black primer will be fine, it won't make a difference either way. I painted an original APD a few years ago, I used grey primer followed by gloss black main coat and then gloss lacquer. I'll take some pictures of it in the morning and post them up.
chrisingrassia
Professional
Yeah, please do post them up!! Would love to see what my result may look like.
Home Depot was a little overwhelming, I don't know what lacquer and enamel and acrylic and primer+paint and all that stuff is, what's the difference, how they interact with one another, etc. I bought two cans of Rust-Oleum matte black, but I did see this black lacquer option (which got terrible reviews): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...s-Black-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1905830/100195918
I'm going with black since if it chips/scrapes it'll be super easy to clean up with a Sharpie marker
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richardc-s
Semi-Pro
I've always found that car paint is very good. I've never seen a coloured lacquer before and judging by the poor reviews I'm assuming its rubbish!
These are a few pictures of my black APD (original). Bear in mind it was painted around 3 years ago and its seen a lot of action since! Its also got lead tape at the top of the hoop and some in the handle.
I also used some carbon fibre effect tape to imitate the Babolat lines on the frame. You can just about make it out in the pictures. I put this on before doing the lacquer so its never going to peal off!
These are a few pictures of my black APD (original). Bear in mind it was painted around 3 years ago and its seen a lot of action since! Its also got lead tape at the top of the hoop and some in the handle.
I also used some carbon fibre effect tape to imitate the Babolat lines on the frame. You can just about make it out in the pictures. I put this on before doing the lacquer so its never going to peal off!
chrisingrassia
Professional
Sweet, thanks for posting. Not a slight towards your work at all, but I'm not so sure I'm sold on the black now 
. I'm not a fan of the gloss/shiny look, I always thought a matte finish with a coat or two of urethane clear would be great. Since I have three APDs to paint, I may actually do one in black, one in white, and another in the matte that I like most (black or white).
I also get worried about the different paint types being too heavy, or never able to dry. I plan to try the citrus stripper tonight though, see how much easier it is than hand wetsanding.
. I'm not a fan of the gloss/shiny look, I always thought a matte finish with a coat or two of urethane clear would be great. Since I have three APDs to paint, I may actually do one in black, one in white, and another in the matte that I like most (black or white).I also get worried about the different paint types being too heavy, or never able to dry. I plan to try the citrus stripper tonight though, see how much easier it is than hand wetsanding.
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richardc-s
Semi-Pro
Sweet, thanks for posting. Not a slight towards your work at all, but I'm not so sure I'm sold on the black now
I also get worried about the different paint types being too heavy, or never able to dry. I plan to try the citrus stripper tonight though, see how much easier it is than hand wetsanding.
Yes I know what you mean, the full gloss black can look a bit cheap! The pictures were taken under artificial light so it doesn't help, but I think it would look better in a matte or satin finish.
Matte white would look awesome! Give that a go and post up some pictures. The more I look at my old APD the more I fancy repainting it... A nice battleship grey would look good!
With regards to the paint not drying, you could always just use very thin coats each time. So for the main colour, instead of using 2 thick coats you could do 4 or 5 thin ones. Also to aid drying you can always heat the racket with a hairdryer. With mine I put on a coat of paint, warmed it up with the hairdryer for 10 minutes after and then let it air out until fully dry.
The good thing with painting rackets is that if it all goes **** up you can just sand it off and start again!
richardc-s
Semi-Pro
That would look good. Also, has anyone thought to use a textured finish paint, something like VHT Wrinkle?
I used it to paint an old filing cabinet before and it left a really nice matte black textured finish. The below picture is of a cam cover painted with the stuff....
Could look cool on a racket!
chrisingrassia
Professional
I worry that auto spray paints are too heavy for a racquet. Is that irrational?
Yeah, I'm thinking more and more that matte white would be sweet, I'm going to do that for my first racquet. I'll post up pics once I finish. About the heat....wouldn't the heat just keep the paint from drying, keeping it in a pliabe state?
Could look very cool. And it's high-temp, too, for when I'm on fire on the courts.
I'm a big fan of the matte style for a racquet. Maybe a matte black with some dark grey accents....like Batman! Would be sweeeeett!!!
richardc-s
Semi-Pro
No the heat will help it dry, 100%! It will help it dry a lot quicker, it almost bakes it on.
Regarding the weight.. From what I've read, the standard paint that you sand off weighs more than the new stuff you put on, so I wouldn't worry about certain paints being heavier than others. Chances are once finished the racket will be slightly lighter than standard anyway.
When you do matte white, if you find it looks naff you could always put a gloss lacquer on top of it to make it glossy. But I think matte white will look great!
A batman APD... I like the sound of that!
Regarding the weight.. From what I've read, the standard paint that you sand off weighs more than the new stuff you put on, so I wouldn't worry about certain paints being heavier than others. Chances are once finished the racket will be slightly lighter than standard anyway.
When you do matte white, if you find it looks naff you could always put a gloss lacquer on top of it to make it glossy. But I think matte white will look great!
A batman APD... I like the sound of that!
Turbo-87
G.O.A.T.
I don't think it would be too bad. I have used that stuff a lot restoring cars and it is tough. It doesn't take too many coats to get good coverage and it is designed to take a hard hit from the elements. You are taking factory paint away from the frame so the weight should even out as long as you don't drench the thing with too many coats. SEM Trim paint is good stuff and I have painted metal or plastic window trim as well as plastic headlight bezels with it. Give the surface a good key with scotch brite pads before painting and it sticks great.
I dislike gloss black on trim and anything under the hood of a car. Satin is the way to go. I don't think the wrinkle paint would look that neat on a racquet. The satin trim paint would give it a bit of texture without going overboard. Plus you would lose the aerodynamics you need in tennis.
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chrisingrassia
Professional
So this "stripping the paint" step is incredibly, outrageously time-consuming. I'm using citristrip (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Citristr...sh-Stripping-Gel-QCG73801TB/206376501).....or rather, I "used". I put it on and left it on all three racquets for over an hour. Took to the sink, rinsed off completely with warm water, and it seems to do nothing. Even using new 320 grit sandpaper, it doesn't seem to do anything at all. I really, really have to sit there and scrub and scrub and scrub to make any progress.
Am I doing something wrong? Should I leave the stripper on longer? Is it just too weak of a product? I've got probably 5-6hours invested in just the first racquet alone. Any thoughts or ideas or tips?
Am I doing something wrong? Should I leave the stripper on longer? Is it just too weak of a product? I've got probably 5-6hours invested in just the first racquet alone. Any thoughts or ideas or tips?
richardc-s
Semi-Pro
Some paint strippers are better than others, maybe you could have left it on for longer?
Unfortunately theres no replacement for man power... Keep going with the sandpaper!
Unfortunately theres no replacement for man power... Keep going with the sandpaper!
chrisingrassia
Professional
Well, then I know what my wife is getting for Christmas: some alone time!!....so I can finish sanding my racquets!!
Ihatetennis
Hall of Fame
can yall post the best brands to buy for primer
im going to try this with an old racquet to give a friend
im going to try this with an old racquet to give a friend
Zoolander
Hall of Fame
If the racquet is an old one your not too fussed on you can cheat like i did and use a pair of smaller scissors held like a razor and gently shave off the top layers of paint till you see the undercoat, which i then sanded down a bit. Sanding the whole thing is a HUGE PIA. The last 2 racquets i did i painted over the existing paint as i wanted to add a little weight, which worked well. Removing the existing paint alltogether will change the "feel" of the racquet as someone mentioned above, it wont feel as solid afterwards, so if you dont mind a little extra weight i wouldnt remove the original paint. Seems each coat of paint adds roughly a gram or so.
Racketdesign
Semi-Pro
Christmas is a great excuse to buy your wife a giant oven that will take a frame.. The finish is all in the bake!
ace0001a
Semi-Pro
Been looking at doing a custom paint myself... Here's another thread I thought to be useful:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/my-custom-paint-job.206667/
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/my-custom-paint-job.206667/
chrisingrassia
Professional
Scissors is a good idea, too. I was actually wondering if I could use my Dremel and some of those wire brush attachments. For me, either the paint stripper either isn't strong enough to eat the clearcoat or I didn't leave it on nearly long enough for it to do any good. The thread/link this guy posted below is great because that guy also used citristrip and he said he left it on the racquet for ~8 hours, WAY longer than my 1hr last night. Then again he's using an old Yonex racquet with some likely cheapo paint materials, my 2013 APD+ frames likely have a little more permanent paint structure to contend with.
Awesome addition, thanks!!
Ihatetennis
Hall of Fame
I saw that.
I'm gonna sand it down and plasti dip it tho
I am going to buy the special effect paints and try it out, plus if you don't like it you can peel it off
chrisingrassia
Professional
They will be heavy, no? It's like spray rubber. You should do something for the thread and weigh your racquet right now (in grams) and then final weight with plastidip once you're done. My assumption is that it's heavier than normal spray paint.
Ihatetennis
Hall of Fame
I will, but since I already have heavy rackets I was going to weigh then unstrung with lead no grommets and no grip
And without lead
Then sand it and apply the paint
I will also check balance points
chrisingrassia
Professional
I'm definitely curious!!
chrisingrassia
Professional
I'm getting close. I have 2 of 3 nearly complete, finding the paint within the throat to be very challenging to remove. May just sand it the best I can and just primer right over it. Sanding by hand is incredibly time-consuming.
Zoolander
Hall of Fame
Wow the APD looks much better just like that, even without repainting it!
Or you can use your BBQ with a hood if it has a temperature gauge in it (if its big enough, at least 6 burner), which is what i did and it did the job!
Or you can use your BBQ with a hood if it has a temperature gauge in it (if its big enough, at least 6 burner), which is what i did and it did the job!
chrisingrassia
Professional
Question for you guys. I've got two coats each of grey/white primer on each racquet now. I used 1500 grit paper to wet sand it smooth in between 1st and 2nd coat only. Should I 1500 wet sand it again before I put the first flat black/flat white coat on? Do I 1500 wet sand after each paint coat? What about the last paint coat before I spray the clearcoat? I know not to do any wet sanding of the clear coats.
Since I'm making a flat black racquet and a flat white racquet, I'm thinking of doing only Babolat's white stripes on the black one, and black stripes on the white one.
Since I'm making a flat black racquet and a flat white racquet, I'm thinking of doing only Babolat's white stripes on the black one, and black stripes on the white one.
chrisingrassia
Professional
It's coming along. Got my first two coats of paint down.
kimguroo
Legend
Make sure that you should put something in grommet holes. Toothpick might be good or I use toilet paper (just roll it).
Otherwise, you will be a little hard to put a grommet back in.
If you have a problem to put it back, use hair dryer a little.
chrisingrassia
Professional
I thought about this for a bit, but opted against it. That's A LOT of work to block out each and every single grommet hole. If any of the holes become tough, I'll just use a razor blade to scrape down the paint.
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