How to get maximum power from 18x20 racquet?

[Operation20]

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased an old Wilson Six One 95 18x20 (2015) and restrung it with natural gut mains and head lynx tour crosses at pretty low tension (high 40s from memory, and noticed that the racquet is too heavy to swing and lacks power. Nonetheless i'll try to sell it off, but is there any way to turn an 18x20 into a powerful racquet without going full bed natural gut? I haven't given up on this string pattern but can see the huge problems that come with 18x20s already.

Open to suggestions of alternative racquets with lower swingweights (max 320), that offer a blend of power and control.

 

[Soundbyte]

Go for a lighter frame. The new CX200 is perfect. Low Swing weight stock but easily customizable to get what you want.

Also comes in 16x19 and 18x20

Other popular frames with more pop include the Pure Aero 98, Head Extreme Pro, Wilson Blade

 

[lazywombat]

low swingweight + 18x20 = low power
There's a reason why 18X20 versions of the same racquet have usually higher swingweights than 16x19 versions.

 

[Operation20]

Go for a lighter frame. The new CX200 is perfect. Low Swing weight stock but easily customizable to get what you want.

Also comes in 16x19 and 18x20

Other popular frames with more pop include the Pure Aero 98, Head Extreme Pro, Wilson Blade

I can see that the aero is a 16x20 frame which i'd imagine is a half way point between 16x19 and 18x20? Surprised to see a lower stiffness rating on a Babolat frame. Typically they have been too stiff for me to play with in the past. 65 is OK and probably the max stiffness I could tolerate.

 

[naylor73]

low swingweight + 18x20 = low power
There's a reason why 18X20 versions of the same racquet have usually higher swingweights than 16x19 versions.

Exactly correct. I stripped the paint off of a 18x20 Blade pro to experiment with lowering swingweight and it was anemic at best.

 

[J-Wildcard]

If you are hitting well and strong which i was when playing a lot the 18x20 lets you fully commit to hitting very hard and still making the ball land in court. However if you want to play and not have to go all out like the lower swingweight frames allow for more racket head speed and whip and getting around the ball in a way you cannot do with these heavier frames. Its a trade off though as when blocking returns with a light frame it lacks plow against a heavy ball. The beam width is important to consider and stiffness of layup. Generally speaking the lighter the racket the higher the balance point to compensate and make the racket work. I like a total control frame but you have to experiment with strong tension to get a set up that works best for you amd your game. There's a lot of rackets that do a lot of work for you now but it depends hiw much control you want. Power is easy to get, controlled consistent power is what you want.
and depth of shot. A good example is the prestige which has the pro for the strong established hitter and the MP-L to assist with a thicker beam, stiffer layup and lighter swingweight and open pattern. That could be a good fit, it does a decent job of covering both departments. The blades are the most popular but they are a bit one dimensional, the older blades had better feel.

 

[SamBruin7]

I find that on dense string patterns, they need mass to optimize the performance and feel. I usually add lots of lead to get to 340-350sw and around 340g. Open string patterns you can get away with lighter stiffer frames and rely on racquet head speed.

 

[Kemitak]

Buy a gym pass

 

[AmericanTwist]

Add weight to the frame, string looser, do some push ups lol... The 6.1 has inherent power and offers great control. It should also hit a mean slice. This is a frame that you can keep and aspire to use properly. Frame itself is medium stiff.

 

[Anton]

“Too heavy AND lacks power” usually means you are using the wrong type of racket for how you are trying to play.

Adding lead to the hoop will increase power and swingweight, which would probably make a racket you say is too heavy even more so.

On strings: 95” 18x20 should be strung in low 40’s with strings no thicker than 17g (1.25mm), and you can go down to 35 with 18g (1.20mm) if you are still not getting the pocketing you are looking for.

 

[ShahofTennis]

If you're not getting power from a gut poly hybrid, there are sure to be a few factors at play.

1. Maybe your crosses are too tight.
2. Maybe the frame is too heavy for you.
3. I dont want to say this one because I dont know you and dont know your game, but you may not be good enough to play with an 18x20 6.1 95.

How easy would you say it is to achieve depth with your Six.One 95? Can you do it routinely without issue? or are you noticing the ball dropping short? Also, if/when you try to hit heavier; how does the ball behave? (Where does it land?)