How to re-tension a string.

[ricardo]

Reasons to re-tension a string

1. Tension too high
2. Tension too low
3. Tension loss
4. Tension experimentation
5. String/Hybrid experimentation
6. Others

How to re-tension a string.

1. I string 2 piece
2. I leave about 8" of tail for future re-tensioning and tie-off. 2 tails for the mains and 1 tail for the crosses. I use a starting knot for the top cross
3. I use a starting clamp as a bridge

Mains

I use the Shoe Lace knot to tie of one of the mains.
I used a regular double-half hitch knot to tie off the other main.
I leave about 8" tail for each knot.

Crosses

I use a starting knot to start the cross (top).
I use the Shoe Lace knot to tie of the bottom cross and leave about 8" tail.

How to untie the knot

1. Mount your racket
   
2. It is very easy to untie the outer knot. I use a long nose pliers and push the tail backwards into the knot until it loosens.
3. After untying the second knot, just pull the tail to untie the inner knot.

Retensioning

1. Retensioning both mains/crosses
   I remove both mains/crosses completely from the frame and re-string as usual.
   
2. Retensioning the crosses only
   I unweave the crosses partially (enough to reach my gripper) from the frame and re-string as usual.
   
3. Retensioning the mains only
   See #1

How strings lose tension

Strings loses tension in several ways:

Static tension loss
Most of the static tension loss occurs during stringing and about an hour after stringing.
After that, static tension loss will continue but at a much lower rate.

Dynamic tension loss
Most of the dynamic tension loss occurs during the first few hours of hitting. The harder you hit, the greater the tension loss.

String damage tension loss
Strings get notched, fray, thin out, flatten out during use. All these will cause more tension loss.

Retensioning Guidelines

You may experience the following:

1. Initial Tension too high
   If the tension is still too high after playing with your racket for some time, re-tension at a lower tension, i.e 5 lbs lower. Keep lowering the tension until you find the right tension.
   
2. Initial tension too low
   If the tension is too low, re-tension at a higher tension, i.e 5 lbs higher. Keep increasing the tension until you find the right tension.
   
3. Initial tension just right
   If the tension is just right, keep playing with your racket until the strings break or until you notice a loss of playability. If the strings still look good, re-tension.

Note:
I have re-tensioned many strings (more than 100 rackets) all with good results.
The only string that broke during re-tensioning is Ashaway Monogut ZX so be very extra careful with this string.

How to pre-stretch a string
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/pre-stretching-using-a-dw-tensioner.554225/

 

[esgee48]

Do you do this for crosses? Or mains if i.e. you use NG mains? Normally, my mains are notched and the crosses are somewhat flatten so I can't re-use them.

 

[ricardo]

Do you do this for crosses? Or mains if i.e. you use NG mains? Normally, my mains are notched and the crosses are somewhat flatten so I can't re-use them.

I re-tension both mains and crosses at the same time or one-at-time depending on need.

My mains always notches. My crosses don't.
Even if my mains are notched it will still slide over a smooth slippery cross.
I also use string savers (Babolat Elastocross) to prevent mains notching.

I like trying new strings and change tensions until I find the right tension.

If I feel tension loss, I re-tension if the strings still look good.

 

[esgee48]

I use to have string savers to prevent mains notching. It was too much trouble to inspect and remove them, then put them back in, so I stopped using them. I have settled on using SG (POSG or GAMMA w/o WG) so have settled on tension and feel. I do string for a guy that uses NG in the mains and I try reusing them when he breaks his crosses. He does use string savers. And I get to charge him more for the aggravation.

 

[ricardo]

I use to have string savers to prevent mains notching. It was too much trouble to inspect and remove them, then put them back in, so I stopped using them. I have settled on using SG (POSG or GAMMA w/o WG) so have settled on tension and feel. I do string for a guy that uses NG in the mains and I try reusing them when he breaks his crosses. He does use string savers. And I get to charge him more for the aggravation.

It was too much trouble to inspect and remove them,

I assume you meant insert instead of inspect.

I use Babolat Elastocross SS.
No problem inserting them.
No problem removing them.

I use SS, specifically this brand, because of the following:

1. It prolongs mains life significantly
2. It reduces string2string friction
3. It makes the mains more grippy

 

[MathieuR]

Hi Ricardo, as you know you inspired me to pre-stretch and re-use.
- I use a pro-knot, with the scrap pieces of string
- before I untie the knot, I use the tensioner and the clamp to create some slack to relax the knot. Put a piece of string outside frame through the string between last main/cross and knot. Pull tension on that help-string, clamp the last main/cross, remove help-string.

 

[ricardo]

Hi Ricardo, as you know you inspired me to pre-stretch and re-use.
- I use a pro-knot, with the scrap pieces of string
- before I untie the knot, I use the tensioner and the clamp to create some slack to relax the knot. Put a piece of string outside frame through the string between last main/cross and knot. Pull tension on that help-string, clamp the last main/cross, remove help-string.

- I use a pro-knot, with the scrap pieces of string
I would look into this knot. Thank you for recommending it.

- before I untie the knot, I use the tensioner and the clamp to create some slack to relax the knot.
I used to do this but I got lazy so I stopped doing it.
I now put a scrap string into each knot (inner and outer knot) before tigthening.
So far this technique works for me.

 

[v-verb]

Are there any videos of this process?

 

[ricardo]

Are there any videos of this process?

Sorry.
I don't have any videos or know of any videos abou this process.

If you have any specific question I will do my best to explain.

 

[Shroud]

Do you do this for crosses? Or mains if i.e. you use NG mains? Normally, my mains are notched and the crosses are somewhat flatten so I can't re-use them.

I just replace crosses and yeah mains get notched. If you replace the crosses you can change the weave so the other side of the main gets notched. With kevlar mains its not a big deal, but you might be able to get more life with other strings by this rotation.

 

[Shroud]

How to re-tension a string.

1. I string 2 piece
   
2. I use a double half-hitch knot.
   
3. Before I tighten the knot, I insert a scrap string into each knot, inner and outer.
4. I leave about 8 inches of tail on each knot (I have a starting clamp).
5. If you don't have a starting clamp, leave enough tail to reach your tensioner
6. I weave the tail inside the racket near the frame and secure the ends with an electrical tape.

How to untie the knot

1. Mount your racket
   
2. Remove the scrap string from the second knot.
3. Insert an awl into the small opening (where the scrap string was before).
4. Agitate the awl to loosen the knot.
5. Do the same with the other knot
6. Untie the string
7. String as usual.

Note:
I have re-tensioned many strings (more than 20 rackets) all with good results.
The only string that broke during re-tensioning is Ashaway Monogut ZX so be very extra careful with this string.

YOu have any picts of the knots and the tail? That would help. LIke where the 8" goes (that doesnt sound right). And I use too much tension to use a starting clamp so I would need a longer tail, etc.

And I use superglue on the kevlar knots due to slippage so thats probably not an option, but reusing crosses might be nice to do.

 

[ricardo]

I just replace crosses and yeah mains get notched. If you replace the crosses you can change the weave so the other side of the main gets notched. With kevlar mains its not a big deal, but you might be able to get more life with other strings by this rotation.

If you replace the crosses you can change the weave so the other side of the main gets notched.

I fully agree.

Another thing I do is that since I do not notch my crosses, I sometimes re-use it on the mains.
However, I will never re-use a notched mains on the crosses.

 

[ricardo]

YOu have any picts of the knots and the tail? That would help. LIke where the 8" goes (that doesnt sound right). And I use too much tension to use a starting clamp so I would need a longer tail, etc.

And I use superglue on the kevlar knots due to slippage so thats probably not an option, but reusing crosses might be nice to do.

YOu have any picts of the knots and the tail?
The knot itself is just a normal dhh knot.
The only change I did is to insert a scrap string (1 inch) into each knot (inner/outer) before tightening them.
I untie the knot by pulling out the scrap string, insert an awl in the opening (where the scrap string was) and agitate the awl
until the knot loosens up. I do the same thing with the inner knot. I don't even clamp.

LIke where the 8" goes (that doesnt sound right).
If you don't use a starting clamp, then you are right.
You need more than 8 inches to reach your gripper.
If I don't use a starting clamp, I need about 1.5 ft tail to reach my tensioner.

 

[Shroud]

YOu have any picts of the knots and the tail?
The knot itself is just a normal dhh knot.
The only change I did is to insert a scrap string (1 inch) into each knot (inner/outer) before tightening them.
I untie the knot by pulling out the scrap string, insert an awl in the opening (where the scrap string was) and agitate the awl
until the knot loosens up. I do the same thing with the inner knot. I don't even clamp.

LIke where the 8" goes (that doesnt sound right).
If you don't use a starting clamp, then you are right.
You need more than 8 inches to reach your gripper.
If I don't use a starting clamp, I need about 1.5 ft tail to reach my tensioner.

Ok. So where does the tail go? Do you tape it down or something?

And I'll have to play with the knots. I dont like the DHH. Maybe I am wrong but IIRC it puts the end pointing into the string bed.

I'll have to see how to untie a parnell with a scrap string.

 

[ricardo]

Ok. So where does the tail go? Do you tape it down or something?

And I'll have to play with the knots. I dont like the DHH. Maybe I am wrong but IIRC it puts the end pointing into the string bed.

I'll have to see how to untie a parnell with a scrap string.

So where does the tail go?

I weave the tail inside the racket as close to the frame as possible.
I then secure the ends with an electrical tape.

 

[MathieuR]

I use string-savers that I cut myself from a teflon-tube. See

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/string-savers-who-uses-these-and-why.557307/

for details

 

[ricardo]

I use string-savers that I cut myself from a teflon-tube. See

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/string-savers-who-uses-these-and-why.557307/

for details

I have been looking for teflon tubes.
What kind of store sell those?
Pharmacy?
Hardware?
Specialty shops?
Medical supply store?

 

[Irvin]

I have been looking for teflon tubes.
What kind of store sell those?
Pharmacy?
Hardware?
Specialty shops?
Medical supply store?

Tennis Warehouse

 

[ricardo]

Tennis Warehouse

That's right!
Right under my nose.
Thank you very much Teacher.

 

[MathieuR]

Tennis Warehouse

Tried the "search" function, no luck; can you give a direct link?

I contacted a company that produces various PTFE/teflon products, also tubes. I got them interested, and tested some options. Might be they will produce these "teflon-string-savers" in the near future.

 

[Irvin]

I tried searching for Teflon too and nothing found but tubing found the links. I thought it was Teflon but it's nylon sorry.
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/sea...&opt_page=1&opt_sort=alphaAtoZ&opt_perpage=20

Here is a link for Teflon tubing I found with a simple google search.
http://componentsupplycompany.com/p...TELevNgiaNAZh_J2_SCFZ2P-f6LE2VW6_caAhMx8P8HAQ

 

[Irvin]

That's right!
Right under my nose.
Thank you very much Teacher.

Sorry that's nylon see above post

 

[MAX PLY]

Grand Slam Stringers has Teflon tubing. gssalliance dot com

 

[ricardo]

Grand Slam Stringers has Teflon tubing. gssalliance dot com

Thanks.

 

[ricardo]

I tried searching for Teflon too and nothing found but tubing found the links. I thought it was Teflon but it's nylon sorry.
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/sea...&opt_page=1&opt_sort=alphaAtoZ&opt_perpage=20

Here is a link for Teflon tubing I found with a simple google search.
http://componentsupplycompany.com/p...TELevNgiaNAZh_J2_SCFZ2P-f6LE2VW6_caAhMx8P8HAQ

What about this one Teacher?

shop.gssalliance.com/Teflon-Tubing_p_21.html

 

[MathieuR]

to cut discs that can be used as string- saver, you need a thin, thick-walled tube.
I now use a tube, outer-diameter 3mm(0.12"), innerdiameter 1mm (0.04").
You could use PTFE for teflon in your search.
Edit: outer diameter 3mm is not optimal.Better take 3.5-4mm (0.14-0.16")

 

[ricardo]

to cut discs that can be used as string- saver, you need a thin, thick-walled tube.
I now use a tube, outer-diameter 3mm(0.12"), innerdiameter 1mm (0.04").
You could use PTFE for teflon in your search.

Thanks...

 

[Imago]

http://www.tenniswarehouse-europe.com/Gamma_Tubing_Teflon_10_ft/descpageGAMMA-GTUBING.html

 

[Big_Dangerous]

Do you do this for each tie off (4) when stringing a two piece pattern? I imagine the tension wouldn't be distributed equally if you only re-tension one main and one cross tie off.

 

[Irvin]

http://www.tenniswarehouse-europe.com/Gamma_Tubing_Teflon_10_ft/descpageGAMMA-GTUBING.html

Gamma also sells badminton teflon tubing which is much cheaper and I assume it would be much smaller than tennis tubing due to its much lower price. 25' for 6 USD.

 

[ricardo]

Do you do this for each tie off (4) when stringing a two piece pattern? I imagine the tension wouldn't be distributed equally if you only re-tension one main and one cross tie off.

I actually physically untie and remove the whole string from the frame and string as I usually do using fresh strings.

 

[MathieuR]

I actually physically untie and remove the whole string from the frame and string as I usually do using fresh strings.

I remove the cross-string, but the mains I try to leave in place as much as possible, just to get a noose to reach the tensioning-clamp for the central mains.

I think the teflon-tubing is too thin walled, and too small in diameter to be useful.

 

[ricardo]

I remove the cross-string, but the mains I try to leave in place as much as possible, just to get a noose to reach the tensioning-clamp for the central mains.

I think the teflon-tubing is too thin walled, and too small in diameter to be useful.

I think the teflon-tubing is too thin walled, and too small in diameter to be useful.
As a string saver, it may not be very useful.

But if you double-pull, this may be useful because it might significantly reduce grommet friction.
It might also simulate the functionality of an o-port giving you a bigger sweetspot.
I will definitely try this on my center mains and center crosses (8x8).

 

[Big_Dangerous]

I actually physically untie and remove the whole string from the frame and string as I usually do using fresh strings.

Wow that seems like a ton of work, and my concern is that after 10-20 hours or so of using my strings, there's noticeable fraying of the strings, particularly the crosses, so I don't see how I could get much more life out of the strings.

 

[ricardo]

Wow that seems like a ton of work, and my concern is that after 10-20 hours or so of using my strings, there's noticeable fraying of the strings, particularly the crosses, so I don't see how I could get much more life out of the strings.

Yes.
It is a lot of work.

I am not a string breaker.
After 20 hours, my strings still looks good, no fraying/notching (I put Babolat Elastocross SS 10x10)
but they have already lost a lot of tension.

I usually play with the same set of strings for 50 hours or more until they break or I get tired of using them.
Sometimes I play with the same set of string for a year or more but I have to re-tension them.

Usually, after the 2nd re-tensioning, they don't seem to lose tension anymore.

 

[Big_Dangerous]

Yes.
It is a lot of work.

I am not a string breaker.
After 20 hours, my strings still looks good, no fraying/notching (I put Babolat Elastocross SS 10x10)
but they have already lost a lot of tension.

I usually play with the same set of strings for 50 hours or more until they break or I get tired of using them.
Sometimes I play with the same set of string for a year or more but I have to re-tension them.

Usually, after the 2nd re-tensioning, they don't seem to lose tension anymore.

Yeah, I'm not a breaker either, but I can definitely see a bit of fraying. I find that depending on how much I'm playing, I usually restring about once every 4-6 weeks or so.

Do you use a full bed of poly? Because typically my setup is poly mains, and a multi in the crosses.

 

[MathieuR]

Do you use a full bed of poly? Because typically my setup is poly mains, and a multi in the crosses.

I use a hybrid "full poly"; max.power/super.smash. I think re-tensioning is best suited for poly's and natural gut.

You could re-use/re-tension your mains, and use fresh multi-crosses (if these are too frayed). That makes the procedure simpler/faster:
- Mount the frame on the string-table
- just cut and remove the crosses
- untie the knots of the mains, and create slack/noose to start re-tensioning starting from the center-mains

It is a lot of work, and not really something you can do for your customers. For them the best option would be, to use pre-stretched string which you pre-stretched in some set-up (which I still have to figure out how to do this in an economic, practical way. Something with pulleys and a bucket with sand/lead)

 

[Big_Dangerous]

I use a hybrid "full poly"; max.power/super.smash. I think re-tensioning is best suited for poly's and natural gut.

You could re-use/re-tension your mains, and use fresh multi-crosses (if these are too frayed). That makes the procedure simpler/faster:
- Mount the frame on the string-table
- just cut and remove the crosses
- untie the knots of the mains, and create slack/noose to start re-tensioning starting from the center-mains

It is a lot of work, and not really something you can do for your customers. For them the best option would be, to use pre-stretched string which you pre-stretched in some set-up (which I still have to figure out how to do this in an economic, practical way. Something with pulleys and a bucket with sand/lead)

Yeah considering that I'm going with Cyclone in the mains, probably one of the more affordable polys, it's probably not worth the trouble to retension the mains, when stringing just the mains only takes a few minutes, and at half a set of Cyclone, that's what 4 bucks, almost 5.

Where it might be nice is in the crosses, but with an expensive multi like V-feel, I can't really retension those.

 

[ricardo]

Yeah, I'm not a breaker either, but I can definitely see a bit of fraying. I find that depending on how much I'm playing, I usually restring about once every 4-6 weeks or so.

Do you use a full bed of poly? Because typically my setup is poly mains, and a multi in the crosses.

No. I don't use a full bed of poly.
I always do hybrids and still searching for the right hybrid at the right tension.

Before, I always cut out my freshly strung strings if I don't like the way they play.
But then I realized it is such a big waste whether the strings are expensive or not.
I also feel guilty throwing away good strings.

So I came up with this idea of untying/re-tensioning a string.

 

[struggle]

Do you guys not have girlfriends/boyfriends or some other "toy" to play with?

This crap is crazy. Just use some new strings. Jeebus.

 

[struggle]

I think I'll cut out this Gosen 17 micro out and re-string it. Bet it's gonna play like a boss.

 

[ttgrinder]

I guess this may not work well with poly strings

 

[MathieuR]

I guess this may not work well with poly strings

Actually, this works very well with poly-strings. But you have to re-tension using a lower reference tension. I use normally ~19kg, re-tension at 17 kg.
Also, when the poly is pre-stretched at 40kg, I also use 17kg.
My intention for re-use is NOT economics, but "technical": a pre-stretched or re-used poly keeps its tension much longer (cause you already lost a big part of the "lasting/irreversible-elongation"). This is especially the case if you use a lock-out stringer (I use an "automatic" dropweight, a Stringway)

 

[MAX PLY]

I guess this may not work well with poly strings

My general view is that "re-using" an existing string job is not something I would recommend. First, and most importantly (to me anyway), is that I have no idea how you can achieve a constant end product when you re-cycle. When I break a string (which is frequently), I pull out a freshly strung racquet that is strung exactly like the prior frame (same new string, same tension, same method, same everything!) and I suffer no disruption in play or feel. If I use a previously used string--the wear, the prior stretch, the prior hours of play, etc. will simply be different--there is no way to adequately control those variables from string job to string job--so I have absolutely no confidence that all of the frames will play the same (and as a player--that is absolutely the number one priority!) (and for what it is worth, the fact that all old string is "dead" (and thus some assert they consequently hold tension better) doesn't mean they are equally "dead"). Secondly, despite that apparently folks have had success in cutting out part of the strings and reinstalling new ones, I am not wholly convinced that a frame is indifferent to that process. Certainly no manufacturer, trade association or any top notch stringer of which/whom I am aware endorses such an approach. Just not sure why I would even risk it (and I can tell you if a customer wanted me to do it--I'd tell him/her "no" and even if I did, I'd let them know I would take no liability for any frame damage). Finally, when you consider the time it would take and the meager savings one might achieve, it is simply not worth it. I suspect the time needed and result achieved is not really that economical when I could probably string a few sticks for others and make up any difference (I have got to believe I could string two full frames with new string for customers in the time it would take me to mess with this "re-tensioning" process. So, to sum up, it's a time consuming and inefficient process that inevitably produces an inconsistent final product--that sort of thing should be left to government, not quality racquet stringers.

But all of that said, it concerns me little that someone would do it with their own frames--more power (or perhaps less power) to you!

 

[MathieuR]

-there is no way to adequately control those variables from string job to string job-

I have only done it for myself, and the results are pretty consistent

I am not wholly convinced that a frame is indifferent to that process.

Of course you have to mount the frame on a stringing-table before you start untieing any knots

Finally, when you consider the time it would take and the meager savings one might achieve, it is simply not worth it

Agree, it is a "hobby". I tend to use extreme pre-stretched poly in stead of re-use (pre-stretch at 40kg, reference-tension 17kg)

 

[ttgrinder]

same everything

That depends on the player and level of play. For me no big issues to adapt for some changes and so welcome minor variations.
By the way I never tried it for my regular play and wont comment about whether it is a good idea or not.

But had re-used some strings during extreme experiments (which I know I will cut out in a day), Obviously there the concentration was more on some extreme change so not sure what was the impact of reuse.

What OP is saying is it is working better for him than a new string. So I would have to try it sometime to see what does he mean.

 

[ricardo]

I guess this may not work well with poly strings

Actually it works best for poly because polys loses the most tension compared to other string types.

A string loses tension in two ways: static and during use.

Poly loses significantly more tension during usage.
The harder you hit the ball, the more tension loss occurs.
Notching/fraying also contribute to tension loss.

If tension loss does not affect the way you play, then you don't have to re-tension/re-string.
Just keep playing with the strings until it breaks.

Unfortunately for me, tension loss affects my control.
Instead of adjusting my strokes to compensate for tension loss, I re-tension/re-string.