travlerajm
Talk Tennis Guru
I don’t usually share reviews of my racquet setups. Most of my customized setups are very good racquets with minor shortcomings, but this setup is worth sharing since it’s the first one I’ve found with no apparent weaknesses! It’s not only an ideal serve-and-volley setup, but it seems to be a superb groundstroke setup as well.
After spending nearly the past year experimenting with racquet setups, I’ve finally found my perfect racquet.
The answer to my quest for my Holy Grail was found by adhering to some simple racquet selection fundamentals. The solution was so simple, but the results were like magic!
Rule #1: Determine your ideal swingweight. After lots and lots of testing with lead tape, I’ve learned that my optimum swingweight is determined by my serve. My previous favorite serving stock racquet was my trusty Prostaff 4.7 EB Stretch 115”. It was only 10.5 oz. strung, but it had a SW of 346! I could really hammer down kick serves Roddick-style at a 5.5-6.0 level with that frame. With some of my 13+oz. customizations, I was able to serve as hard or harder, but never with as much command.
My Holy Grail setup was found by returning to the SW of my favorite serve racquet of the past.
Rule #2: Maximize twistweight. From my experiments with lead customization, I have found that high twistweight (the moment of inertia about the longitudinal axis) is by far the most important spec for a good volley racquet. Translation – the more weight you put at 3 and 9, the better your racquet for volleys. Twistweight is more important than static weight or balance. So if you want to be a serve-and-volleyer, 3 and 9 is the most efficient location to add weight.
Rule #3: Use a pro-style balance. My statistical analysis of pro racquet specs found that with very few exceptions, there is no such thing as a top-100 pro with a balance point near that of stock racquets. ATP pros plays with a balance that obeys this equation: R = 44.57/sqrt(M), where R is the balance point in inches and M is the static weight in ounces. Roughly 80% of all top-100 pros have balance points within +/-2 pts of this curve, which is about 4 pts more HH than most stock racquets. The equation is a regression line with constant MR^2.
Rule #4: Start with a flexible frame as a customization platform. My experiments taught me long ago that very stiff frames have some nice advantages (especially for volleys), but if you want to uncap the ceiling on your game, you need a flexible frame to unlock your inner spin potential.
Using these 4 rules allowed me arrive at my Holy Grail.
So now for my setup: Prince NXG OS, with 10g of lead total at 3-and-9. 16g Kevlar hybrid (Ashaway Crossfire) at 67 lbs. Static weight 12.25 oz. SW = 346 kg-cm^2. Effective SW (at 4cm axis) = 450 kg-cm^2.
Yes this setup is simple, but it satisfies the 4 critical rules listed above. Here’s my Review:
Serve. This is the best all-around serve setup I have ever used. Velocity was excellent. Spin on kick serves was ample. My kick serves down the middle were nice and heavy, hitting the back fence about 5 feet high, even though I wasn’t swinging my hardest. My 5.0 opponent who has an excellent return game was having a tough time getting my heavy kick serves back in play. The best part was that I had incredible command. I could hit the spots I aimed for, and the spin was enough to pull it down reliably at the right depth. It was a joy to feel like my serve was once again a reliable weapon.
Grade: A+
Volleys: This was a pleasant surprise. My volleys felt just as stable as my 13+ oz setups, but the lower swingweight made it more maneuverable. I volleyed today with more touch and control than ever before. It’s the first time I felt like I could aim my volley 6 inches from the sideline and feel confident that I would hit my target. My touch was incredible. Every point, I found myself wanting to get to the net so I could show off my newly discovered McEnroe hands. Low volleys, high volleys, touch volleys, stab volleys – all excellent. Using an OS stock frame helped give the customized racquet a hefty twistweight, further improving stability and control.
Grade: A+
Forehand: I found my groundstrokes felt good at first, but not great. The balance was more head heavy than I was used to. But after a half-hour adjustment period, everything started to feel natural. My pace and spin was very good, and control was very nice too. The swingweight was probably a little lower than my optimum for my eastern forehand, which I like to hit with moderate spin. The really nice thing about this setup was it’s versatility. I could hit it flat with good precision, and I could also rip a heavy deep moonball. After the initial adjustment period, I had a lot of confidence, and I was pleasantly surprised that I could hit my forehand so well with this setup.
Grade: A
Backhand: Just like the forehand, my 2hb (which is much better than my forehand) took an adjustment period to get used to the longer balance point. But once I made the adjustment – WOW. My measuring stick is the down-the-line backhand, and I know a racquet is nicely balanced for my backhand when I can rip my DTL backhand without missing. And with this setup, I didn’t miss. My backhand seemed to have the perfect combination of penetration and spin. I found myself going for the DTL shot at almost every opportunity to take control of points, and my crosscourt shot felt better than ever too. I had that feeling that I could use my backhand to dictate Agassi-style. My 1hb slices, just like my volleys, had amazing touch and control.
Grade: A+
If you want to try modifying your racquet to play similarly to mine, here’s a quick step-by-step procedure.
Step 1. Start with a flexible stock frame (stiffness low 60s or less) that weighs roughly 12 oz.
Step 2. Use the following equation to find your effective SW about the 4cm axis (parallel axis theorem):
I’ = I + M*(12*R – 84)
I’ = effective SW (about 4cm axis) in kg-cm^2
I = specified stock SW in kg-cm^2
M = mass in kg
R = balance point in cm
Step 3. Measure the distance r’ from the butt end to the center of mass of the weight to be added at 3 and 9. Use a ruler to find the imaginary line that goes between 3 and 9 o’clock, and measure to the point on the ruler in the center of the stringbed. It’s important be precise about this measurement.
Step 4. Calculate the total mass m’ to be added at location r’ (at 3 and 9) using the following equation:
m’ = (450 – I’)/[(r’ - 4)^2]
m’ = mass of weight to be added in kg
I’ = effective SW about 4 cm axis (in kg-cm^2) calculated in Step 2.
r’ = distance (in cm) to location at 3 and 9 as measured in Step 3.
Step 5. Add the weight m’ at 3 and 9 in lead strips approximately 4 inches in length. Don’t use longer than this or else your SW will increase too much. For better results, place the lead on the outside of the frame rather than the inside, since the increase in twistweight is proportional to the square of the distance from the centerline to the added weight.
Step 6. Make sure that your tension is roughly at the high limit of the recommended tension. Adding this amount of weight to the head of your racquet will likely increase power level substantially, and you’ll want to adjust your tension accordingly.
Step 7. Time for a playtest. Use the serve as your guide to know if the swingweight is right. A good idea is to remove a gram and see how it responds. And then add a gram and see how it responds. I like to use how high on the fence the ball hits to gauge the effectiveness of my spin serve. The amount of lead that allows your spin serve to hit highest on the fence will tell you your optimum SW. Give yourself a full session of hitting to adjust your groundstrokes to the higher swingweight and longer balance point.
Edit: My latest setup far surpasses this one. For details on my new favorite setup, see:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showpost.php?p=1151417&postcount=31
After spending nearly the past year experimenting with racquet setups, I’ve finally found my perfect racquet.
The answer to my quest for my Holy Grail was found by adhering to some simple racquet selection fundamentals. The solution was so simple, but the results were like magic!
Rule #1: Determine your ideal swingweight. After lots and lots of testing with lead tape, I’ve learned that my optimum swingweight is determined by my serve. My previous favorite serving stock racquet was my trusty Prostaff 4.7 EB Stretch 115”. It was only 10.5 oz. strung, but it had a SW of 346! I could really hammer down kick serves Roddick-style at a 5.5-6.0 level with that frame. With some of my 13+oz. customizations, I was able to serve as hard or harder, but never with as much command.
My Holy Grail setup was found by returning to the SW of my favorite serve racquet of the past.
Rule #2: Maximize twistweight. From my experiments with lead customization, I have found that high twistweight (the moment of inertia about the longitudinal axis) is by far the most important spec for a good volley racquet. Translation – the more weight you put at 3 and 9, the better your racquet for volleys. Twistweight is more important than static weight or balance. So if you want to be a serve-and-volleyer, 3 and 9 is the most efficient location to add weight.
Rule #3: Use a pro-style balance. My statistical analysis of pro racquet specs found that with very few exceptions, there is no such thing as a top-100 pro with a balance point near that of stock racquets. ATP pros plays with a balance that obeys this equation: R = 44.57/sqrt(M), where R is the balance point in inches and M is the static weight in ounces. Roughly 80% of all top-100 pros have balance points within +/-2 pts of this curve, which is about 4 pts more HH than most stock racquets. The equation is a regression line with constant MR^2.
Rule #4: Start with a flexible frame as a customization platform. My experiments taught me long ago that very stiff frames have some nice advantages (especially for volleys), but if you want to uncap the ceiling on your game, you need a flexible frame to unlock your inner spin potential.
Using these 4 rules allowed me arrive at my Holy Grail.
So now for my setup: Prince NXG OS, with 10g of lead total at 3-and-9. 16g Kevlar hybrid (Ashaway Crossfire) at 67 lbs. Static weight 12.25 oz. SW = 346 kg-cm^2. Effective SW (at 4cm axis) = 450 kg-cm^2.
Yes this setup is simple, but it satisfies the 4 critical rules listed above. Here’s my Review:
Serve. This is the best all-around serve setup I have ever used. Velocity was excellent. Spin on kick serves was ample. My kick serves down the middle were nice and heavy, hitting the back fence about 5 feet high, even though I wasn’t swinging my hardest. My 5.0 opponent who has an excellent return game was having a tough time getting my heavy kick serves back in play. The best part was that I had incredible command. I could hit the spots I aimed for, and the spin was enough to pull it down reliably at the right depth. It was a joy to feel like my serve was once again a reliable weapon.
Grade: A+
Volleys: This was a pleasant surprise. My volleys felt just as stable as my 13+ oz setups, but the lower swingweight made it more maneuverable. I volleyed today with more touch and control than ever before. It’s the first time I felt like I could aim my volley 6 inches from the sideline and feel confident that I would hit my target. My touch was incredible. Every point, I found myself wanting to get to the net so I could show off my newly discovered McEnroe hands. Low volleys, high volleys, touch volleys, stab volleys – all excellent. Using an OS stock frame helped give the customized racquet a hefty twistweight, further improving stability and control.
Grade: A+
Forehand: I found my groundstrokes felt good at first, but not great. The balance was more head heavy than I was used to. But after a half-hour adjustment period, everything started to feel natural. My pace and spin was very good, and control was very nice too. The swingweight was probably a little lower than my optimum for my eastern forehand, which I like to hit with moderate spin. The really nice thing about this setup was it’s versatility. I could hit it flat with good precision, and I could also rip a heavy deep moonball. After the initial adjustment period, I had a lot of confidence, and I was pleasantly surprised that I could hit my forehand so well with this setup.
Grade: A
Backhand: Just like the forehand, my 2hb (which is much better than my forehand) took an adjustment period to get used to the longer balance point. But once I made the adjustment – WOW. My measuring stick is the down-the-line backhand, and I know a racquet is nicely balanced for my backhand when I can rip my DTL backhand without missing. And with this setup, I didn’t miss. My backhand seemed to have the perfect combination of penetration and spin. I found myself going for the DTL shot at almost every opportunity to take control of points, and my crosscourt shot felt better than ever too. I had that feeling that I could use my backhand to dictate Agassi-style. My 1hb slices, just like my volleys, had amazing touch and control.
Grade: A+
If you want to try modifying your racquet to play similarly to mine, here’s a quick step-by-step procedure.
Step 1. Start with a flexible stock frame (stiffness low 60s or less) that weighs roughly 12 oz.
Step 2. Use the following equation to find your effective SW about the 4cm axis (parallel axis theorem):
I’ = I + M*(12*R – 84)
I’ = effective SW (about 4cm axis) in kg-cm^2
I = specified stock SW in kg-cm^2
M = mass in kg
R = balance point in cm
Step 3. Measure the distance r’ from the butt end to the center of mass of the weight to be added at 3 and 9. Use a ruler to find the imaginary line that goes between 3 and 9 o’clock, and measure to the point on the ruler in the center of the stringbed. It’s important be precise about this measurement.
Step 4. Calculate the total mass m’ to be added at location r’ (at 3 and 9) using the following equation:
m’ = (450 – I’)/[(r’ - 4)^2]
m’ = mass of weight to be added in kg
I’ = effective SW about 4 cm axis (in kg-cm^2) calculated in Step 2.
r’ = distance (in cm) to location at 3 and 9 as measured in Step 3.
Step 5. Add the weight m’ at 3 and 9 in lead strips approximately 4 inches in length. Don’t use longer than this or else your SW will increase too much. For better results, place the lead on the outside of the frame rather than the inside, since the increase in twistweight is proportional to the square of the distance from the centerline to the added weight.
Step 6. Make sure that your tension is roughly at the high limit of the recommended tension. Adding this amount of weight to the head of your racquet will likely increase power level substantially, and you’ll want to adjust your tension accordingly.
Step 7. Time for a playtest. Use the serve as your guide to know if the swingweight is right. A good idea is to remove a gram and see how it responds. And then add a gram and see how it responds. I like to use how high on the fence the ball hits to gauge the effectiveness of my spin serve. The amount of lead that allows your spin serve to hit highest on the fence will tell you your optimum SW. Give yourself a full session of hitting to adjust your groundstrokes to the higher swingweight and longer balance point.
Edit: My latest setup far surpasses this one. For details on my new favorite setup, see:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showpost.php?p=1151417&postcount=31