How to string lower stringbed looser?

#1
I dont know if this is because of my (flawed?) stringing technique or the racquets are just designed this way, sometimes the racquets I string myself play sweet and responsive in the middle and upper stringbed, but dead/very tight in lower stringbed.

Either way, I believe this can be resolved by stringing looser in the lower stringbed. But how? I string with a 2-point dropweight Silent Partner Swing. Do I string 1 to 2 pounds less in the lower hoop for 4~5 crosses, or do 1/2/3/4/5 lbs increment lower for 5 crosses, or tension for shorter period of time? Thanks.
 
#3
I would just drop the ref tension in the last 6 crosses by 2-4#; 3 crosses at -2# and the bottom 3 crosses by -4#. If you are hitting the ball that low in the hoop, you should give yourself more spacing. :D
 
#4
I dont know if this is because of my (flawed?) stringing technique or the racquets are just designed this way, sometimes the racquets I string myself play sweet and responsive in the middle and upper stringbed, but dead/very tight in lower stringbed.

Either way, I believe this can be resolved by stringing looser in the lower stringbed. But how? I string with a 2-point dropweight Silent Partner Swing. Do I string 1 to 2 pounds less in the lower hoop for 4~5 crosses, or do 1/2/3/4/5 lbs increment lower for 5 crosses, or tension for shorter period of time? Thanks.
Try a few different ways and see what you like.
 
#5
I would just drop the ref tension in the last 6 crosses by 2-4#; 3 crosses at -2# and the bottom 3 crosses by -4#. If you are hitting the ball that low in the hoop, you should give yourself more spacing. :D
No I dont hit the ball that low lol. I just wanted the lower 1/3 to be more playable. I tried something conservative: -1/-1/-2/-2/-3/-3/0 in the last 7 crosses and I think the lower 1/3 did open up a bit. The deadness in the stringbed seems to be dependant on frame/string and likely my stringing. A lot of variables lol but but the first experiment seems to be positive.
 
#6
Decreasing tension by 1# until you find what you like will be very slow going towards what you want. 2-4# is something you will feel quickly since that's about 1 DT unit. Decreases by 3-6# will be even quicker. One other thing you could do to loosen the lower strings is to not straighten them when you tension them. However, you may not be able to replicate the tension since you will not know how much tension was pulled/loss by not straightening.
 
#8
Move the weight up or down? ;)
If you meant racquet customization, I have 1g@12 and +10g by leather grip on this particular Yonex DR98, which shouldn't change sweet zone location too much. I have a couple more DR98 coming which shouldn't need to add weight in the hoop, only leather grip, which supposedly would move the sweet zone lower. We will see.
 
#9
Decreasing tension by 1# until you find what you like will be very slow going towards what you want. 2-4# is something you will feel quickly since that's about 1 DT unit. Decreases by 3-6# will be even quicker. One other thing you could do to loosen the lower strings is to not straighten them when you tension them. However, you may not be able to replicate the tension since you will not know how much tension was pulled/loss by not straightening.
Yeah I thought about that, but wanted something measurable and repeatable.

Start half way down, drop the tension 1-2 pounds with every cross.
I will try that too. Oh and in my current experiment, the last cross is actually +10 lbs, so it's -1/-1/-2/-2/-3/-3/+10 lbs. Because the last cross is already loose due to the knot, and I dont hit the ball there lol.
 
#10
If you meant racquet customization, I have 1g@12 and +10g by leather grip on this particular Yonex DR98, which shouldn't change sweet zone location too much. I have a couple more DR98 coming which shouldn't need to add weight in the hoop, only leather grip, which supposedly would move the sweet zone lower. We will see.
I think he meant the weight on your DW machine. ;)
 
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